The designers

The first designers appeared on the scene around 1960, encouraged by the debuts of design houses such as Mafia and Promostyl. They made their mark by offering models that could be produced in large numbers to sell at ready-to-wear prices. Their designs were destined for the young clientele who were refusing the sophisticated look of haute-couture fashion. Notable pioneers included Daniel Hechter, whose "Babette" line was inspired by Brigitte Bardot, Jean Cacharel and Michele Rozier. Also part of this first generation were Emmanuelle Khanh, Gerard Pipart, and Christiane Bailly.

While the new designers' names started to become familiar, haute-couture houses began to launch their own ready-to-wear lines, with clothes of high quality. Pierre Cardin, Saint Laurent, and Saint Laurent-Rive Gauche were the first to follow this road, which had in fact already been paved by the pre-war couturier Lucien Lelong.

The gap between the diverse branches of the fashion industry began to close, and the most prominent designers began to group together, at least partly to attain the prestige that accompanied the creations of haute couture. With this in mind, an association called Mode et Creation was founded in 1973, in the wake of the founding of the Paris fashion industry's trade union. Mode et Creation brought the designers in vogue together with the fashion houses that carried ready-to-wear lines. Today the members of this group of internationally acclaimed designers come together to present their collections for each season. Journalists and buyers from around the world flock to see these prestigious fashion shows. In the same tents, erected in public places in Paris, the Federation of Women's Ready-to-Wear presents its lines.

The leaders of the fashion industry today are a small group of designers from around the globe who show their collections in Paris, New York, Milan, and Tokyo and sell them, either directly or through licensed distributors, in any country where they are appreciated.

Today, however, unlike in the past, a "new" style will not necessarily devalue an old one. The offerings of designers are so varied that they are bound to please a diverse public. The choice of clothes depends essentially on the image one wishes to project. In these times of liberalism in life style and morals, people can opt for the "look" that will best express their personalities. In surveying the evolution of fashion between 1960 and 1980, formal dress became less and less common. Black suits worn with starched white shirts were rarely seen except at important ceremonies. Women's hats, despite designers' efforts to keep them in fashion, were relegated to weddings and solemn functions. Gloves worn for anything but sports and cold weather disappeared. Ties became the symbol of constraining office wear and were increasingly abandoned in leisure hours. Men's hats gave way to berets, caps, and motorcycle helmets.

In terms of the overall line of clothes, the tight-fitting curvaceous silhouette disappeared in the sixties. Although it failed to catch on, the "bag dress" introduced by couturiers in 1959 did serve to accustom the eye to clothes that hung loosely on the body.