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Chapter 13 Medicinal and aromatic plants used in cosmetics 483
13.6.3 Multifunctional nanocarriers in protection
of the encapsulated ingredients
The ultradeformable vesicles have huge success in upgrading the skin penetration of drugs and efficacy of antiaging performances of some metabolites like tocopherol. Its preparation in transfersome, have great properties sized of less than 100 nm and entrap­ment potentiality of up to 90%. Also, in vitro assays and its distribution through the skin layer and have revealed its biocompatiblity with keratinocytes and fibroblasts, showing its protective effect against oxidative damage and the efficacy for wound healing [78]. NCs for coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) delivery such as ethosomes [78, 79], transethosomes [80], are well-presented. CoQ10 is less soluble in water and it mainly restricts drug encapsula­tion effect in NCs, so the application of large amounts of lipid phase or ethanol might enhance its loading. Study by [78] significantly improved loading CoQ10 into protransfer­somal emulgel observation during 28 days at low temperatures and contributed to the stability (particle sizes of 201.5 ± 6.1 nm, zeta potential of −11.26 ± 5.14 mV) and antiaging potentiality providing use as antiaging products.
Vitamin C is a dermocosmetic agents are related to whitening, anti-inflammatory, an­tioxidant, and antiaging effects on the skin. Its direct intro in cosmetic products is re­stricted by its low-fat solubility and dermal absorbability. So, delivery systems for stabiliz­ing vitamin C for its application in cosmetics mainly use liposomes [81], chitosan-grafted cellulose nanocrystals [82], pectin [83], etc. Glycerosome represents a lipid vesicle contain­ing edge activator (glycerol) to modify the fluidity of the bilayer structure, as well as up­grade transdermal delivery of quercetin and other active constituents. The quercetin de­formable liposomes consisting phosphatidylcholine, cholesterol, and Tween 80 had a significant encapsulation potential due to particle size (132 ± 14 nm), increased elasticity (10.48 ± 0.71), and long-lasting drug release (up to 48 h) [84]. Liposome such as vesicles enriched with Argania spinosa oil might contribute skin hydrating and softening impacts as well as simplify the accumulation of natural molecules like allantoin in the skin and transdermal absorption. Conventional liposomes with incorporated allantoin and new argan oil with incorporated allantoin have enriched liposomes to enhance their local de­position in the skin. The argan oil-based formulations favored the allantoin accumulation in the dermis (8.7 μg/cm
2
), and permeation through the skin (33 μg/cm2) [85].

13.7 Conclusion

The future of MAPs holds promise for further development and improvement in cosmetic formulations. This chapter’s main focus has been the role that MAPs play in addressing the transformative natural agents for development of various cosmetic formulations. Cur­rently, MAPs stand as a testament for the remarkable potential they offer as they repre­sent a huge source of phytochemical. MAPs serve in preparations if various extracts, and
484 Emina Boškailo et al.
their chemical complexity is the reason for significant biological properties making them an attractive option for a rapidly cosmetic evolving field. Such upgraded MAP ex­tracts developed by various sustainable approaches have a significant role in treatment of a broad spectra of medical disorders, such as dermatological. Extraction techniques, the drug nature (quality of plant, its origin, climate conditions, harvest time, plant’s organ, drying method, particle size, etc.), solvent type, costs and therapeutic values, etc., have a big effect on the extract’s potential. The results from latest studies underscore the exceptional capability of MAPs. Numerous natural metabolites are strong antioxidants and offer anti-inflammatory performances helpful in the treatment of oxidative stress­induced issues like photoaging, anti-elastase activity, the photoprotective effect of phe­nolics (e.g., oxyresveratrol and kuwanon O), improve hair growth and prevent hair loss, anti-dandruff, and anti-lice performances, and many more. Moreover, NPs have the po­tential to prolong action time by managing the delivery of active ingredients, causing site-specificity, enhancing biocompatibility, or the drug-loading capacity. Such potential has huge positive impact on cosmetic formulations due to nano size, big surface-to­volume ratio, etc. Further understanding of the concept of MAP extract mechanism and byproduct utilization, will help revolutionize cosmetic practices and contribute to a more sustainable future.

Abbreviations

MAPs Medicinal and aromatic plants ZI Zone of inhibition SDGs Sustainable development goals HD Hydrodistillation SE Soxhlet extraction WW Wastewater UAH Ultrasound-assisted extraction MAE Microwave-assisted extraction SFE Supercritical fluid extraction EAE Enzyme-assisted extraction EOs Essential oils NPs Nanoparticles NCs Nanocarriers NEs Nanoemulsions MIC Minimum inhibitory concentration MBC Minimum bactericidal concentration PR Phenylethyl resorcinol
Chapter 13 Medicinal and aromatic plants used in cosmetics 485

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Binnur Bağci✶, Gamze Tüzün, and Elyor Berdimurodov
Chapter 14 Edible medicinal and aromatic plants
Abstract: Edible medicinal and aromatic plants have historically played an important
role in the treatment of diseases, and sometimes in the alleviation of their complications. In addition to their nutritional value, these plants also attract great attention due to their pharmaceutical and cosmetic importance. The active ingredients they contain are the main factors that reveal the therapeutic properties of these plants. These plants con tain many bioactive compounds such as phenols, flavonoids, and terpenoids, and these serve the defense mechanisms of plants. Medicinal and aromatic plants are currently being researched in the fields of alternative medicine and nutrition because they pro vide important effects on health.
These plants have been traditionally used in the treatment of various diseases and these forms of use continue in many cultures today. Edible medicinal plants not only provide the body with the necessary nutrients, but also play a role in the treat ment of diseases by offering pharmaceutical properties. Especially in recent years, due to the increase in chronic diseases and complications due to drugs, these plants have begun to attract more attention. In addition, since these plants contain bioactive compounds, they have great potential for the food and agricultural industries. In this chapter, edible medicinal aromatic plants and the medical conditions they are associ ated with are discussed in terms of their bioactive components.
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Keywords: edible plants, culinary plants, medicinal and aromatic plants, bioactive compounds

14.1 Introduction

Historically, plants have served as the principal instrument for the treatment and, in certain instances, the mitigation of diseases and disease complications. Medicinal and aromatic plants are currently of significant interest due to their nutritional value, in
Corresponding author: Binnur Bağci, Department of Nutrition and Dietetics, Faculty of Health, Sivas Cumhuriyet University Sciences, Sivas, Türkiye, e-mail: binnurkoksalbagci@gmail.com, https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1323-3359 Gamze Tüzün, Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Science, Cumhuriyet University, 58140, Sivas, Turkey Elyor Berdimurodov, Chemical and Materials Engineering, New Uzbekistan University, 54 Mustaqillik Ave, Tashkent 100007, Uzbekistan; Faculty of Chemistry, National University of Uzbekistan, Tashkent, 100034, Uzbekistan
492 Binnur Bağci, Gamze Tüzün, and Elyor Berdimurodov
addition to their pharmacological and cosmetic relevance [1]. Medicinal and aromatic plants are used for medicinal purposes and typically possess an intense odor or fla­vor. Their therapeutic capabilities result from the active constituents in their chemi­cal composition [2]. The compounds synthesized by these plants include phenols or their oxygen-substituted derivatives, tannins, flavonoids, tannins, saponins, terpe­noids, anthocyanins, sterols, waxes, carotenoids, and fatty acids. It is known that they synthesize more than 12,000 aromatic substances, mostly secondary metabolites, as defense molecules against predation by microorganisms, insects, and herbivores. This number is thought to be a very small fraction of the amount of secondary metabolites claimed to be synthesized by medicinal aromatic plants. Consequently, medicinal and aromatic plants represent a promising and evolving field [3].
In recent years, the increased incidence of chronic illnesses (cancer, heart dis­ease, diabetes, etc.) and various complications associated with pharmaceuticals have driven researchers to explore alternative solutions to these problems. Edible medici­nal plants are recognized as significant resource of both nutrients and pharmaceuti­cals [4]. These plants not only provide adequate nutrients to supply the organic re­quirements of the body but also contain pharmacological substances that are used to treat a range of illnesses. They possess rich pharmaceutical components that can be employed both as therapeutic agents and as protective measures against disease risks.
Edible medicinal and aromatic plants occupy a research domain in disciplines such as ethnomedicine, which investigates the health-related beliefs and practices of societies, particularly traditional and culture-specific treatment methods; biomedi­cine, which examines the relationship between biological sciences and modern medi­cine, encompassing scientifically grounded medical applications; and traditional med­icine, which explores health practices, beliefs, and treatments developed based on a society’s cultural, historical, and local knowledge, passed down through generations.
The purpose of edible medicinal and aromatic plants, unlike other nutrients, is not solely to alleviate hunger and provide micro- and macronutrients to the body. Rather, they provide bioactive ingredients to promote physical and mental health and prevent diet-related disorders. [5].
Globally, these plants are an integral part of the cultural and traditional dietary practices of many societies. Researches have clearly demonstrated the critical role of healthy nutrition in preventing chronic diseases and its protective benefits. The pri­mary objective of edible medicinal plants is to prevent chronic diseases and contrib­ute to overall health. However, the effects of extracted compounds from certain con­ventionally used plants remain an active area of investigation.
From an ethnobotanical perspective, the rich ethnobotanical diversity offered by edible medicinal and aromatic plants is a situation that occurs in different ways all over the world. Each region of the world has its own methods and information re­garding the utilization of these plants. For example, in countries with wide ecological and climatic diversity such as India, indigenous people have used wild plants for both nutritional and healing purposes for generations. Utilizing wild plants in the Mediter-