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Chapter 13 Medicinal and aromatic plants used in cosmetics 463
and TFC of 25.79 mg RE/g db. The best MAE parameters were 26 mL/g of LSR and 606 W
for 2 min to enable TPC and TFC recovery of 17.74 mg GAE/g db and 8.11 mg RE/g db,
respectively. Similarly, 12 natural deep eutectic solvents were produced for recovering
phenolics and terpenoids from Abelmoschus sagittifolius (Kurz) Merr roots; citric acid/
glucose and lactic acid/glucose, with a molar ratio of 2:1 were the most suitable. For the
highest terpenoid recovery at 69 ± 2 mg UA/g dw, the following conditions of UAE were
used: 40 mL/g liquid-to-solid ratio, 40% water content, 30 °C, and 600 W ultrasonic
power for 5 min. Regarding phenolics recovery, 150 W ultrasonic power was the most
suitable at 9.56 ± 0.17 mg GAE/g dw. The conditions for MAE were 50 mL/g liquid-to-solid
ratio, 20% water content, and 400 W microwave power for 2 min to achieve the maximum phenolics and terpenoids at 22.13 ± 0.75 mg GAE/g dw and 90 ± 1 mg UA/g dw, respectively [14].
13.3 MAPs in skin care products
13.3.1 MAPs as photoprotective agents against UV light and skin damage
Skin is often exposed to UV radiation and produced ROS is mainly responsible for oxidative damage and accumulation of oxidative products that leads to expression of elastase
and collagenase. Moreover, skin aging is influenced by UV light and oxidative stress,
which cause acute inflammatory reactions in the tissue. Numerous natural metabolites
are strong antioxidants and show anti-inflammatory responses helpful in photoaging
condition [
ascena oil nanoemulsion at 50 mg/g and 100 mg/g emulgel doses to investigate protective
impact against UVB-influenced photoaging, measured antioxidant, antiwrinkle, and antiinflammation parameters (CAT and SOD; MMP-9; TNF-α, and IL-6), etc. Moreover, total
RNA isolated from rat dissected joints was used to evaluate the genes expression (JNK,
ERK1/2, and p38 MAPK). Given results showed that R. damascena oil nanoemulsion
achieved more significant antiaging potency versus R. damascena emulgel according to
histological and biochemical evaluations. Such extraordinary activities might be linked
with its chemical composition, geraniol, nerol, citronellol, phenyl ethyl alcohol, and linalool (29.2%, 23.4%, 16.34%, 4.96%, and 3.24%, respectively).
potentials. Five pigments of anthocyanins were characterized from methanolic extracts
and their potential to protect human dermal fibroblasts against UV-A radiation was evaluated by MTT cell growth assay and Comet assay. These extracts showed high photoprotective activity in fibroblasts emphasizing their ability to protect skin against the UV-A
radiation negative effect [17]. Non-phototoxic chamazulene as major compound (38.92%)
of Artemisia sieversiana Ehrhart ex Willd. EO in synergy with two UVB filters (ratio of
15]. Abdallah et al. [16] prepared R. damascena emulgel (100 mg/g) and R. dam-
Strawberry (Fragaria × ananassa) rich in anthocyanins has strong anti-inflammatory
464 Emina Boškailo et al.
./s-
--
--
--
Medcial benefit Reference
profile
Yield (%) Phytochemical
Extraction
parameters
(plant:
solvent)
Extraction Solvent Ratio
Acne treatment,
fragnance in
perfumes
Flavonoids, phenolic
molecules, aromatic
compounds,
. g,
.%;
. g,
extract, then exposed to
second chloroform and
g: mL First hexane crude
chloroform,
and methanol
saponins, tannins,
iridoids, and
quinones
.%;
. g,
.%
third extraction.
Wound healing ./s-
Terpenes, phenolics,
and alkaloids
. g,
. g,
extracted with mL
– g of powdered leaves
hexane, and
. g
solvents at °C, °C,
water
and °C, h. After
that, viscous semisolid
masses were evaporated.
Wound healing ./s-
Alkaloids, flavonoids,
steroids, and tannins
., .,
.,
.. g
several solvents for – h
and evaporated.
– Soxhlet extraction with
acetone,
chloroform,
methanol and
water
Table 13.1: Different extracts of medicinal and aromatic plants (MAPs) obtained using conventional and innovative extraction techniques along with operational
parameters aimed at achieving MAP phytochemical profile and getting insight to discover potential natural metabolites that may provide versatile medicinal
activities.
type
Origin Mass Grounding
organ
Plant species Plant
Thymus vulgaris Herb Wild g Powder SE Hexane,
Leaves Wild g Powder SE Methanol,
Ajuga integrifolia
Buch.-Ham
Leaves Wild – Powder SE Hexane,
Murraya
paniculata
Chapter 13 Medicinal and aromatic plants used in cosmetics 465
./s-
--
Anti-cancer, anti-
microbial, anti-
Flavonoids, phenolic
lignans and stilbenes;
Agitating:
min, rpm, RT.
O,
MeOH:
H
diabetes, and
gastrointestinal
diseases; tremors,
Rutin, psoralen,
limonene, and
pinene; oleuropein;
:, v/v
paralysis, nervous
disorders;
cardioprotective
pigenin, coumarins,
myristicin; phenolic
acid, flavonoids,
activity; cyto-, gastro-,
brain-, nephron-
tannins, amino acids,
and alkaloidal
protective effects;
[7]
Aromatherapy,
headaches,
depression, and colds
(α-terpinolene and (–)
borneol), phenolic
– Terpenoids
exposed do Clevenger-
type HD; g in mL
water exposed to
microwave digestion
(, W): temp.
increased to °C in
min and maintained
./s-
Anti-aging,
– Trans-
for min.
--
hyperpigmentation,
and acne treatment
Cinnamaldehyde
the frequency set at
kHz, the temperature
set at °C
(continued)
methanolic
mg Powder Agitating Hydro-
Botanical
growing
Leaves;
leaves
Salvia officinalis
L., Rosmarinus
solution
and
young
officinalis L., and
Mentha piperita
stems
L.; Ruta
graveolens L.,
Olea europaea L.,
Petroselinum
crispum Mill.,
Punica granutum
L.
Water – g in mL water
HD and
microwave-
particle
Flowers Field g Sieved to a
L.
Lavandula
angustifolia
assisted
hydrodistillation
(MHD)
size
between
and
mesh
Ultrasonic Methanol – the power set at W,
powderd
at particle
– Sieved and
growing
Leaves Botanical
Cinnamomum
cassia
size of mesh
466 Emina Boškailo et al.
./s-
--x
--
Medcial benefit Reference
profile
Yield (%) Phytochemical
Extraction
parameters
(plant:
solvent)
Extraction Solvent Ratio
Anti-aging and
anti-cancer
triterpenes,
sesquiterpenes,
– Flavonoids,
Extraction time (, ,
, , and min),
extraction temperature
: (mL:
g)
%)
phenolic acids,
(, , and °C),
sterols, and
coumarins
and/or the ratio of liquid
to material (, , ,
and : (v/w) mL/g) and
ethanol concentration
(%, %, %, %, and
% (v/w))
Alopecia treatment ./s-
phenolic acids
derivatives, alkaloids,
and flavonoids
g Glucosinolates,
at room temp. with
frequent shaking for h.
The soaked seeds were
cold pressed, filtered, and
seeds
soaked in
water
Water kg
Cold pressed,
filtration,
lyophilization
the filtrate was
( × L)
centrifuged at , rpm
for min. The
supernatant was
separated in a gel form
and lyophilized. After
h. a lyophilized dry
powder was produced
( g).
Origin Mass Grounding
Table 13.1 (continued)
Plant species Plant
type
organ
Wild kg Crushed SE Ethanol (conc.
Herb
(leaf,
stem,
Taraxacum
mongolicum
Hand.-Mazz
and
ground
root)
Lepidium sativum Seed Market kg Coarse
./s-
-w
Antioxidant and skin
anticancer properties
Flavonoids, tannins,
terpenoids, saponins,
g
(%) and
alkaloids, steroids,
and cardiac
g
(%)
glycosides
Chapter 13 Medicinal and aromatic plants used in cosmetics 467
[8]
Antimicrobial,
antioxidant, and
wound headlining
Phenol, ,-bis
(dimethyl ethyl),
benzene dicarboxylic
acid, squalene;
pentanoic acid, -
hydroxy-,,-dibutyl
phenyl ester, phytol,
tetramethyl
heptadecane,
neophytadiene, and
hexadecanal
.
(.%)
and .
(.%)
g/ g
sample in deionized water
at °C for h, with
– Decoction: g of
Aqueous and
hydroalcoholic
extracts
maceration
Wild g Powder Decoction and
parts
Calotropis procera Aerial
continuous stirring at
, RPM. Hydro-
alcoholic extract: g
macerated in % ethanol
(. L).
Pressure ( bar) and
–
P. juliflora Leaves Wild Powder SFE and SE Ethanol and
temperature ( °C)
g of
hexane
dynamic extraction time
the
( min).
P. julifora
leaf
powder
in
mL
hexane
468 Emina Boškailo et al.
5:1) incorporated into sunscreen formulations reduces the usage of UVB filters up to
66%. Moreover, both have ability to minimize UVB-induced radiation cellular damage,
which implies their possible application in the sunscreen products [18]. Also, the photoprotective effect of phenolics (oxyresveratrol and kuwanon O), obtained from the Morus
australis (root) extract, in human primary epidermal keratinocytes was evaluated. Both
phenolics were nontoxic to cells (conc. >10 and 0.5 μM). Oxyresveratrol increased cell viability at pretreatment at conc. 5 and 10 μM and attacked UVA- or H
-induced cellular
2O2
ROS and also reduced UVA-improved nitrotyrosine. Kuwanon O also presented similar
results with 0.25 μM and 0.5 μM, but without protection on cell survival after UVA irradi
ation. Both natural metabolites might be ingredients in cosmetic products aimed for skin
photoprotection or the prevention of photocarcinogenesis in humans [19].
13.3.2 Regenerative and wound-healing properties of MAP-derived agents
Wound represents the disruption of the cellular and anatomic tissue layer due to several types of traumas (physical, thermal, microbial, etc.) or caused by immunological
trauma. Accordingly, wound healing is a complicated process followed by repairing
damaged tissue and depends on different phases such as inflammatory, proliferative,
or remodeling. The final goal of wound healing is to reduce healing duration and mini
mize consequences such as scars. The healing process is dependent on physiological
mechanisms like anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities. Infected
wounds are the main reason for wound-healing complications influencing efficiency of
wound healing. It is well-known that bacteria are directly linked to infected wounds, so
minimizing their load would be beneficial in the healing process. Many MAPs promote
the skin’s natural recovery processes and show potential in wound treatment. The employment of MAP extracts in wound care is constantly increasing thanks to their wide
spectra of compounds and physiological and pharmacological efficiency [20].
Numerous in vitro and in vivo methods might be employed in analyzing woundhealing performances of MAPs metabolites (Figure 13.1). In vivo artificial and tissue
models, and others might be used according to factors taken into consideration. In vitro
models are more robust, fast, and require less ethical considerations, and give detailed
insight into biochemical and physiological processes that are influenced by the test
agent/compound. It is important to emphasize that no animal tissue is an exact replica
of human skin. Cream products based on Kalanchoe pinnata (KP leaves) extracts contain
0.15% of [quercetin 3-O-αused to investigate a rat excision model for 15 days, and on the 12th day, rat groups were
treated with KP leaf-extract and its major flavonoid. The results have shown 95.3 ± 1.2%
and 97.5 ± 0.8% of healing, respectively with significant re-epithelialization and denser
collagen fibers that have huge importance in wound healing [21]. Gel formulated from
B. pinnatum (leaves) aqueous extract (5%) was evaluated for treatment of back skin
L-arabinopyranosyl-(1→2)- α-L-rhamnopyranoside]. Creams are
-
-
Figure 13.1: The proposed comprehensive scheme of several classes of human models of wound repair
such as in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo, as well as applicable assays for various wound models [23].
Chapter 13 Medicinal and aromatic plants used in cosmetics 469
wounds in rats. The wounds reduction was followed by a reduction in inflammatory infiltrate and the levels of the IL-1β and TNF-α. The formulated gel exhibited phytochemical
and biological stability for a month and showed quercetin 3-O-α-
-(1→2)-O-α-
L-rhamnopyranoside (B. pinnatum compound) as significant chemical marker
L-arabinopyranosyl
of MAP extracts and formulations containing B. pinnatum that might be used in evaluation of quality [22].
13.3.3 MAPs as skin anti-aging and whitening agents
Today’s skin care is very complex, and women in early ages (from 30 years) are showing signs of aging skin. The processes on skin are the most noticeable; the level of skin
470 Emina Boškailo et al.
care products is highly in demand. The most age-related changes in the dermis include: (a) a decrease in the number and activity of fibroblasts, that are important in
producing collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin, (b) breakdown of collagen fibers, increased cross-linking, and a decrease in skin resilience and stretchability, (c) alterations in elastin fibers, leading to clumping (elastosis), no elasticity, and wrinkle formation, and (d) a reduction in hyaluronic acid, resulting in skin that is less moisturized
and less resilient. Botanical ingredients are commonly used in cosmetic products for
dry and mature skin due to their ability to enhance hydration status of skin, decrease
trans-epidermal water loss, strengthen the skin barrier, and prevent the breakdown
of skin components. Plant extracts and natural products are valued for maintaining
skin integrity and structure, offering promising anti-aging benefits. In vitro studies
have demonstrated that MAPs might be a beneficial source of agents with huge potential anti-aging performances [24].
A systematic molecular modeling study explored the anti-aging effects of Ros-
marinus officinalis L. hexane extract (RHE) by analyzing the inhibitory impact of its
major components on key aging-related enzymes, including elastase, collagenase,
and hyaluronidase. The RHE was incorporated into lipid nanocapsule-based mucoadhesive gels (particle sizes from 56.55 nm to 66.13 nm), uniform distribution (PDI
0.207–0.249), and negative zeta potential (−13.4 to − 15.6). In an in vivo UVB-irradiated
rat model, the RHE-loaded gel provided photoprotection, improved antioxidant levels, enhanced epidermal and dermal histology, and reduced inflammation and wrinkle markers. Moreover, in silico molecular modeling identified verbenone, crucial
for RHE anti-elastase activity, due to high docking score and favorable binding mode
(Figure 13.2) that might be responsible for in inhibiting elastase, an enzyme involved
in skin aging [4].
Skin whitening or lightening is mainly connected to practice in some ethnic groups
for culture-specific beauty preferences by decreasing human melanin concentration or
applying some plant-based or synthetic substances to change the skin tone or lighten it.
Whitening is often referred to dermatological conditions, for treatment hyperpigmentation, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or conditions such as vitiligo when the
skin loses pigment or its function is disabled [25]. A natural cosmetic product consisting
of Hibiscus cannabinus L. extract was developed and evaluated on antioxidant, antityrosinase, and anti-aging activities. The results have shown antityrosinase potential on inhibition of monophenolase (30.28 ± 3.90%) and diphenolase (11.40 ± 0.29%) formation, and provided inhibition of collagenase (36.41 ± 0.54%) and elastase (23.13 ± 1.56%) [26]. Several
MAPS and their aqueous extracts were exposed to the anti-aging activities, Echinacea pur-
purea J. Presl has shown the best inhibition of collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase
activity (78.5 ± 0.0, 69.0 ± 1.4, and 64.2 ± 0.3%). Also, Morus alba L. (leaves and steamed/
roasted leaves) revealed the best anti-inflammatory potential, as they inhibited IL-6 and
TNF-α secretion (p < 0.05). These aqueous extracts pose significant impacts on the skin
Figure 13.2: The representation of verbenone in the docking pose in elastase: (a, b) verbenone in 3D
docking pose and 2D interaction diagram of in the binding site of elastase, (c, d) collagenase, and (e, f)
hyaluronidase. Reproduced with permission from [4]. Copyright Nature ©2022.
Chapter 13 Medicinal and aromatic plants used in cosmetics 471
and might be applied in cosmetic formulations like toners, facial mist, and facial serum
[27]. A comprehensive summary of MAP extracts and their major constituents are given
in Table 13.2, investigated by various in vitro, in vivo, and in silico methods applied in
evaluation of their potential for cosmetic skin care formulations.
472 Emina Boškailo et al.
Inhibition (%) Reference
viability
(%)
IC Cell
Human
cells
area
. and g/mL – [28]
Wound healing HDF,
HaCaT
– [29]
– At
conc. g/
mL >
HUVEC
[30]
At conc. g/mL:
Tyrosinase:. ± .
From . to
.%
Reduced the
migration of Ca-
Ca-
oral
Skin aging,
wound healing,
(seeds) and . ± .
(pulp); Hyaluronidase:
. ± . (seeds)
cells from .% to
%
carcinoma
cells
- cells
proliferation of
Ca
[31]
> and ; Elastase:
MeOh up to
HaCaT, BJ – – Collagenase: MeOH
Anti-aging
properties
Skin whitening – – – ., DPPH of . [32]
Table 13.2: Medicinal and aromatic plant extracts with their major constituents in maintaining skin care with huge benefits for skin aging, wound healing, and skin
whitening.
Model Assay Application
compound
Plant Extract Active
assay test
In vitro Cytotoxicity and scratch
Asiaticoside
(MF of .%)
: w/v)
EtOH
(
%
Centella
asiatica
In vitro Scratch assay test Wound healing HDF,
–, (– g/
mL)
Aqueous
extrac
Crocus sativus
L.
assay, clonogenic assay
In vitro Trypan blue cytotoxicity
, g/mL
MeOH –, –
Solanum
betaceum
denaturation;
determination of anti-
In vitro Inhibition of protein
–, –,
g/mL
MeOh
and
MeOh-
Borago
officinalis
collagenase and anti-
Aq
elastase activity
Aq –, , g/mL In vitro Inhibition of tyrosinase
Myracrodruon
enzyme, antioxidant
activity
urundeuva