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[34]
Chapter 13 Medicinal and aromatic plants used in cosmetics 473
of S. thunbergii extract
of ., ., and .
– SPF of . ± . [33]
BtOH of .
– Elastase activity:
Wound healing
and inhibition
estimation); antiaging
In vitro Photoprotection (SPF
.
± . g/mL; Act.
of IC
of the skin
extracellular
activity (elastase and
collagenase)
± . g/mL
matrix enzymes
– – – RSA, TIA, and CIA
Skin whitening
and anti-
wrinkling
MMPs
– – [4]
± .
– Elastase: .
Skin aging and
wound healing,
Anti-elastase and anti-
collagenase
in vitro,
Collagenase: .
(fluorimetrically), anti-
in silico
± .,
hyaluronidase activity
hyaluronidase:
. ± . g/mL;
at g/mL of
. ± .%
(haluronidase inhibitor
screening assay kit)
Oleanolic
acid –,
EtOH,
Cyclopia sp Aq,
.–, g/
Act,
mL; – g/
BtOH
mL and –
g/mL
EtOH –, .–.% In vitro Inhibition of TRP- and
Sargassum
thunbergii
Hexane Verbenone In vivo,
Rosmariuns
officinalis L.
474 Emina Boškailo et al.
13.4 MAPs in hair cosmetics
13.4.1 MAPs in hair products
Nowadays, hair care and hairstyle are important to human society as they have huge
impact on social life. Various hair conditions require different approaches due to the
factors that that cause such conditions, like microbial infection, stress impact, etc. As
MAP extract gain huge popularity for their benefits in hair care, researchers put in
huge efforts to enhance cosmetics products intended for hair growth, reduce hair fall,
for hair nourishing, reducing scalp, or even use their potential in dermatological conditions like seborrheic dermatitis [35]. This is supported by evidence of global market
for organic products that reached almost $25 billion by 2025. Natural products are
mainly produced from organic agriculture (95%) and do not contain chemical or synthetic additives. Essential oils (EOs) that do not contain constituents of animal origin
are considered as vegan, without pesticide content or genetically modified organisms
(GMOs), which is within the scope of sustainable production. Cosmetic dermatology
has improved along with MAPs products popularity such as EOs due to their signifi
cant efficiency on the scalp and hair. The EOs metabolites easily penetrate in the
scalp, and nourish and stimulate the deep hair follicles growth, supplement the nutrition, moisturize and strengthen the hair [36].
Plants like Mentha piperita L. and Rosmarinus officinalis L. are beneficial in enhancement of hair growth and prevent hair loss [37]. M. piperita L, EO (3.0%) has potential in the conservation of the dermal papillae vascularization, acts as a stimulant
in hair growth, and is therapeutic for hair loss [38]. The clinical trials done on patients
with alopecia, promoted R. officinalis L. consisting 3.87 mg 1,8-cineole/mL of the product; it is very effective against alopecia and decreased the scalp. R. officinalis L. EO
antioxidant properties might be responsible for such effect as it generates free radicals [39]. Significant effects can be seen with a mixture of MAPs products in hair treatment. For example, the EO of Melaleuca alternifolia, Rosa damascene, Citrus grandis,
and Foeniculum vulgare have moisturizing efficacy, and Thymus vulgaris, Lavandula
angustifolia, and Salvia sclarea have benefits against alopecia and dandruff. Among
various cosmetics products consisting Eos,e the most used are in products for various
hair treatments [36].
-
13.4.2 MAPs in hair growth products
As hair loss is a huge issue, researchers pay great attention to find the right cosmetic
products to prevent hair loss, by looking for novel approaches. So, MAP extracts might be
beneficial due to their rich chemical profile.
hair growth effects that might be related to anagen prolongation (Figure 13.3) [40], as well
as 2,3,5,4′-Tetrahydroxystilbene-2-O-β-D-glucoside and emodin content [41]. Moreover, in-
Polygonum multiflorum extract has revealed
Chapter 13 Medicinal and aromatic plants used in cosmetics 475
creased hair size and hair follicles number is proved by regulating β-catenin and sonic
hedgehog expressions via topical and oral application, which is analyzed by histological methods of C57BL/6 mouse [42]. Allium ascalonicum L. methanolic extract containsphenolics such as rosmarinic, quercetin, and p-coumaric acids. The in shallot extract
has hair growth potentiality due to the downregulation of the androgen gene expression (SRD5A1 and SRD5A2) and the upregulation of the genes related with Wnt/βcatenin (CTNNB1), sonic hedgehog (SHH, SMO, and GIL1), and angiogenesis (VEGF) pathways [43].
Malva verticillata seed n-hexane extracts were identified with linoleic acid (LA)
and oleic acid. LA treatment activated Wnt/β-catenin signaling and induced human follicles dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) growth by increasing the expression of cell cycle
proteins such as cyclin D1 and cyclin-dependent kinase 2. LA treatment also increased a
vascular endothelial growth factor, insulin-like growth factor-1, and hepatocyte and keratinocyte growth factor, in a dose-dependent manner [44]. Punica granatum is associated with anti-inflammatory activity, and its usage in cosmetics (skin care, wrinkling
care, pigmentation, etc.) is broad. Aqueous and alcohol P.granatum peel extracts have
promoted growth of hair in albino mice with alopecia issues. These extracts enhanced
hair growth up to 3% [45], showed effectivity in anti-dandruff and anti-lice performances, related to punicagranine 1 content as it has anti-inflammatory properties and inhibitory effects (IC50 of 22.8 ± 1.2 µm) [46].
13.5 MAPs in oral hygiene products
13.5.1 Formulations for toothpaste and mouthwash
Several antimicrobial agents have shown efficacy in mouthwashes available commercially and shown to be important in the treatment of oral disease. The oral flora in hospitalized and debilitated patients are subjected to an early gram-negative bacteria shift.
So, the plaque might have a role as a reservoir for possible pathogens, as well as some
resistant microbials, for infection at other body sites. Citrox
bioflavonoids, in particular derived from citrus fruits. Due to its hydroylated phenolic
structures it has potential against various microorganisms. Citrox
tion range 0.007–8% v/v showed antimicrobial activity, with emphasis on the BC30 formulation that showed high inhibition activity of all bacterial species and several Candida spp. (C. albicans, C. dubliniensi, C. glabratas, C. tropicalis: MIC of 0.125% Citrox®, v/
v; C. krusei: MIC of 0.03125% Citrox®, v/v, and C. parapsilosis: MIC of 0.5% Citrox®, v/v)
analyzed by broth and biofilm assay at a concentration of 1% (v/v). These results
showed potentiality of Citrox® as antimicrobial agents for oral care products such as
mouthwash [47]. Also, eucalyptus oil presented prevention of the growth of oral microbials potentiality that affects creation of dental caries and endodontic infection. Diluted
®
is based on MAPs soluble
®
formulations in dilu-
Figure 13.3: (a) Effect of PM extract (20 g/mL) on 41 types of growth factors secreted from DPCs. Effect
of PM extract (2 g/mL, 20 g/mL, and 50 g/mL), and minoxidil (50 M) on anagen elongation and
catagen entry in human hair follicles (20 hair follicles/group) organ culture model was evaluated. After
incubation of 6 days, hair follicle morphology was analyzed; (b) hair follicles images of for every
experimental group; and (c) calculated ratio of anagen, early and late catagen. Reproduced with
permission from [40]. Copyright Springer ©2020.
476 Emina Boškailo et al.
Figure 13.4: Essential oil of eucalyptus showed the antibacterial activities against Streptococcus mutans
and Enterococcus faecalis with (a) and (c) reduced the total absorbance and (b) and (d) biofilm formation
growth. Reproduced with permission from [48]. Copyright Nature ©2023.
Chapter 13 Medicinal and aromatic plants used in cosmetics 477
eucalyptus oil showed high total absorbance reduction against S. mutans and E. faecalis
versus the control (p ≤ 0.001) as shown in Figure 13.4. Moreover, both bacteria biofilms
were reduced by nearly 60- and 30-fold for the biofilm measurement in comparison to
the group with no EO (p ≤ 0.001) [48]. Great antibacterial activity was seen in Arnebia
euchroma (Royle) Johnst. root (AR) extract on S. mutans UA159 and anti-caries effect
on rats with MIC, MBC, MBIC50, and MBRC50 of 1.0, 8.0, 4.0, 8.0 mg/mL, respectively
[49]. Aggregatibacter actinomycetemcomitans, Porphyromonas gingivalis, Tannerella
forsythia, and Prevotella intermedia known as periodontal pathogens were treated
with Nigella sativa seeds EO and exhibited significant effect against these pathogens.
These results present Nigella sativa seeds EO as a potent antimicrobial agent in the
formulations for oral microbial pathogens [50].
Ethanol extract of M. acuminata was used in the formulation of toothpaste containing 1,
2, 3, 4, and 5% extract. It was also used to investigate the antibacterial activity of the toothpaste against S. aureus and S. mutans. The results revealed the best activity of toothpaste
478 Emina Boškailo et al.
with 5% extract with an IZ of 19.30 ± 0.17 mm and 12.60 ± 0.52 mm against S. aureus and
S. mutans versus the herbal toothpaste available in market [51]. The antimicrobial activi-
ties of the Moringa oleifera root extract were used in formulation of toothpaste and compared with commercial Oral-B toothpaste. Both were assessed against S. mutans,
Lactobacillus, S. aureus, and C. albicans, and M. oleifera-based toothpaste showed
better inhibitory potential against tested microbials [52]. Nine herbal toothpastes
with pomegranate peel extract (0.2–1.8% w/w) and clove oil (1–1.4% w/w) showed promising in vitro antimicrobial activities against C. albicans, S. mutans, and S. aureus. Among-
reus. Among all, formulations containing 1.4% w/w pomegranate peel extract and 1% w/
w clove oil showed the best IZ against used strains with diameter 26, 27, and
25 mm [53].
13.5.2 MAPs in prevention of dental caries
Dental caries is often widespread in human pathology with most common worldwide
incidence. Some bacterial strains like
and Pseudomonas aeruginosa have been related with the cariogenic processes. Dental caries is mainly affected by formation of a microbial biofilm followed by an acidic
and anaerobic state due to adherence and colonization of S. mutans [54]. Antimicrobial
films often prepared with chitosan films with E. grandis pyroligneous extracts might
have potential in control strategy to prevent biofilm formation related to dental caries,
as well as inhibit the oral microbial formation and may control dental caries by pH reducing impairment of enamel demineralization [55]. Turmeric also has broad spectra of
noncurcuminoid phytochemicals such as curcumin, curcumenol, eugenol, zingiberene,
curcumol, turmerin, turmerones, which are great agents to combat various oral diseases
like dental caries. Curcumin has showed significant antibiofilm activity with sessile MIC
concentration of 50% against S. mutans biofilm (concentration of 500 μM), from 5 min to
24 h [56].
G. parvifolia (leaves)-based methanol extract was effective in antimicrobial activity
proved by MIC and MBC assays with activity guide fractionation. Garcidepsidone A (1)
and garcidepsidone B (2) as isolated constituents from G. parvifolia leaves also showed
great MIC values (2) for S. sobrinus (0.02 mg/mL) and P. gingivalis (0.05 mg/mL) showing
their importance in prevention dental caries. Garcidepsidone A (1) is also able to inhibit
GTase up to 25% [57]. The impact of C. myrrha EO against S. mutans and Lactobacillus
spp. involved in dental caries is evaluated as well. S. mutans bacteria were isolated from
Khartoum Dental Teaching Hospital patients with dental caries and Lactobacillus spp.
isolates from fermented milk. The results showed EOs (conc. of 100, 50, 25, and 12.5 mg/
mL) had potential on S. mutans with IZ of 18.7 ± 0.6 mm and 14.00 mm by the well diffusion method and disc diffusion method, and with MBC of 3.125 mg/mL [58].
Streptococcus mutans, Lactobacillus acidophilus,
Chapter 13 Medicinal and aromatic plants used in cosmetics 479
13.6 MAPs enhanced by sustainable materials in cosmetics
13.6.1 Nanotechnology in cosmetic formulations
Nanotechnology is an emerging technology with versatility of application, encouraged in
cosmetic industry, due to nano-sized particles (1–100 nm). Several cosmetic products
(shampoos, tonics, cleansers, etc.) use nanoparticles (NPs), mainly Au and Ag as they are
the most controllable and simple to organize [59]. Numerous metabolites from MAP extracts such as polyphenols, flavonoids, alkaloids, terpenoids, quinones, and low molecular weight proteins are part of synthesis of NPs as source/s of reducing agent [60]. They
have the ability to prolong action time by managing the delivery of active ingredients,
causing site-specificity, enhancing biocompatibility or the drug-loading capacity. Such
cosmetic products have more pros than traditional cosmetics due to nano size, big surface-to-volume ratio, and NPs incorporated in cosmetic formulations do not change their
performances, upgrade their appearance, coverage, and adherence to the skin [61]. NPs
like Ag has medical application thanks to its antimicrobial, antimycotic, cytotoxic, and
antioxidant potentialities, and Ag-NPs have been employed in skin care products like
cream and ointment for burns and open wounds [62]; they enhance antiaging effect, UV
protection, skin penetration, stimulate hair and nail growth, strengthen their structure,
enhance hydration power, etc. [61].
Aqueous extract of Grewia optiva leaves is employed as a reducing agent in the synthesis of Ag-NPs. The results have shown the important role of flavonoids and polyphenols in the fabrication of NPs. Extraordinary antibacterial potential of synthesized NPs
has been revealed against S. typhi, and the impact of extract and NPs was analyzed on
the hair growth of rabbit. The rate of hair growth was higher for NPs versus extract [60].
Eucommia ulmoides leaf aqueous extract (conc. 0.01%, 0.1%, 0.5%, and 1%) was used to
synthesize AgNPs (10 mM, and diameter from 4 nm to 52 nm) an exhibited an absorption
peak at 430 nm, and C, O, and Cl elements, which might enable absorption of flavonoids
and phenolics on the AgNPs surface (Figure 13.5). The efficacy of AgNPs to suppress antiTYR activity in both in vitro and cell and A375 cells, and diminish ROS formation in HaCat
cells promote AgNPs as agents in preventing melanin development and improve their application in skin-whitening products [63]. Cordyceps militaris (CM) known for its woundhealing effect has been used for preparing its extract and SiO
analyze its healing effects on burns induced wounds. Dissolved CM in SiO
20 nm) suspension was analyzed for cytotoxicity in human fibroblasts and also evaluated
in treatment to burn-induced second-degree skin in mice. In small concentrations (0–160
μg/mL) CM and its CM-SiO2NP mixture were not harmful to tested fibroblasts. Almost
identical effects were shown by them on proliferating cells, contributing to wound healing, and skin recovering during the treatment period (7 days and 15 days). The wound
closure rate, after seven days of treatment, in the CM group was faster (2.4 times) versus
NP mixture (CM-SiO2NP) to
2
NP (roughly
2
Figure 13.5: The representation of absorption spectrum of synthesized AgNPs from E. ulmoides leaf
aqueous extract. (a) The adsorption spectrum of synthesized AgNPs (10 mM) and plant extract (conc. Of
0.01%, 0.1%, 0.5%, and 1%); (b) various reaction durations (1 h, 8 h, 16 h, and 24 h) between plant extract
(1%) and AgNO
480 Emina Boškailo et al.
(10 mM); (c) visible solution color change due to generation of AgNPs; (d) anti-tyrosinase
3
activity of AgNPs; (e) kojic acid standard curve for inhibiting tyrosinase activity; and (f) AgNPs antityrosinase activity against A375 cells. Reproduced with permission from [
63]. Copyright Elsevier ©2022.
Chapter 13 Medicinal and aromatic plants used in cosmetics 481
sulfadiazine group and the untreated group (4.1 times faster). A complete wound closure
is achieved after 15 days of treatment by CM-SiO
NP treatment of burn-wound skin struc-
2
ture [64].
13.6.2 Innovative nanocarrier materials
Organic- and inorganic-based delivery systems have attracted scientists as potential and
novel carriers in delivery systems for cosmetic applications. The biosynthesis of inorganic NPs based on the use of MAPs origin biomolecules extracted pathogens has
gained huge interest of the researchers lately as the methods for their biosynthesis require safe and green solvents (e.g., water), room temperature conditions, or minimized
heating. MAPs aqueous extracts were mainly used to synthesize different NPs composed
of Ag, Au, Pd, ZnO, SiO
ducted to analyze its antibacterial, anticancer, and antioxidant properties. The ability of
AgNPs is proved against numerous bacteria; they have strong antioxidant potential as
well. The cytotoxicity in MCF-7 cells has increased up to 100 μg/mL, representing the
maximum at concentration of the BO-AgNPs with IC50 of 55 μg/mL [
Nanocarriers (NCs) are able to easily penetrate through hair follicles, sebaceous
glands, and sweat glands where they generate a depot impact and easy release the
potential compounds. Hair follicles extend very deep in dermis (up to 1,000 μm) and
create a 3-D contact surface with the skin, which offers sufficient absorption area for
the potential constituents [67]. The permeability of NCs in hair follicles is mainly connected to their particle sizes. For example, lipid-based NCs of ≤ 640 nm might penetrate into hair follicles [68], but polymeric 300 nm-sized NPs might penetrate up to
300 μm deep into hair follicles [69]. Skin issues or/and diseases are mainly related to
epidermal barrier dysfunction as they lead to skin dehydration, dryness, itchy, and
chapped skin. NCs have efficacy with skin moisturizing components that moisturize
and freshen the skin barrier, which can have impact on chronic dermatological issues, preventive or/and therapeutic impact on atopic dermatitis, eczema, and psoriasis [67].
Hyaluronic acid (HA) has beneficial effect on the skin, with moisturize and repair
potential, but its large molecular weight restricts its penetration deep into the skin. It is
reported that ethosomal carrier system encapsulates HA. Compared to PBS control, the
system enhanced penetration of HA into the active epidermis and dermis by disrupting
the dense structure of the stratum corneum. Concentrations of HA in skin were about
1,000-fold higher than those in blood [70]. Nanoemulsions (NE) developed from rice
bran oil significantly moisturized skin without skin irritation. After 14 days of rice bran
oil NEs treatment, skin was more moisturized, up to 38% and 30% in normal control
volunteers and in patients with eczema issues, respectively [71]. Phenylethyl resorcinol
(PR) is known as a whitening agent due to anti-tyrosinase activity. PR-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers were developed by the hot-melted ultrasonic method, and by their
, TiO2, etc. [65]. AgNPs synthesis from Brassica oleracea was con-
2
66].
482 Emina Boškailo et al.
incorporation into nanostructured lipid carriers exhibited great physicochemical and
photo stability. Also, they efficiently promoted the melanocyte’s PR uptake in epidermis
to inhibit migration of melanosome and provide whitening influence [71]. The comprehensive applicability of various MAP-based NCs is given in Table 13.3.
Table 13.3: Natural nanocarriers at different particle sizes synthesized from various MAPs being utilized
due to their immense potential in cosmetic and dermatological areas in humans.
MAPs
ingredient
Argan oil Nanostructured
Resveratrol Solid lipid
Curcumin Polymeric
Lavender Polymeric
Paeonol Lipid liquid
Phenylethyl
resorcinol (-(phenylethyl),benzenediol)
Collagen
peptides
Nanocarrier Size
lipid carrier
nanoparticle
micelle
nanoparticle
crystal
Nanostructured
lipid carriers
Lipid-based
nanocarrier
Effect Application
(nm)
– Prolonging contact time,
facilitating local application,
improving skin hydration
≤ Enhancing skin retention and,
decreasing the cytotoxicity in
high concentration
. Enhancing the stability
solubility, systemic
bioavailability
. Improving the
physicochemical stability,
upgrading and providing
better the epidermal
permeation, decreasing
toxicity risks
Improving the water stability,
solubility, volatility reducing
and irritation of the skin
. Provided physicochemical
stability and photostability,
anti-tyrosinase activity
Better skin absorption
biological safety, and
significant impacts in
anti-aging
References
in cosmetic
Moisturizer [72]
Whitening [73]
Whitening [74]
Antiaging [75]
Whitening [76]
Whitening [71]
Antiaging [77]