Technology of perfumery

Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and/or aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, animals, objects, and living spaces. The odoriferous compounds that make up a perfume can be manufactured synthetically or extracted from plant or animal sources.

Perfumes have been known to exist in some of the earliest human civilizations Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds. Specific terms are used to describe a fragrance's approximate concentration by percent/volume of perfume oil. A list of common terms is as follows: Perfume extract, or simply perfume: 15-40% aromatic compounds; Eau de Perfume , Perfume de Toilette : 10-20% aromatic compounds, sometimes listed as "eau de perfume" ; Eau de toilette : 5-15% aromatic compounds; Eau de Cologne : Chypre citrus type perfumes with 3-8% aromatic compounds; After shave: 1-3% aromatic compounds.

The traditional classification which emerged around 1900 comprised the following categories: single floral, floral bouquet, amber or oriental, wood, chypre (perfume with fragrances of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum).

Since 1945, due to great advances in the technology of perfume creation as well as the natural development of styles and tastes: bright floral, green, citrus, fruity; aquatic, oceanic, or ozonic: the newest category in perfume history, appearing in 1991 with Christian Dior's Dune. A very clean, modern smell leading to many of the modern perfumes.

Aromatics sources include flowers and blossoms - rose and jasmine, blossoms of citrus and ylang-ylang trees; fruits: citrus such as oranges, lemons, and limes; leaves and twigs - patchouli, , rosemary, and citrus leaves; woods - sandalwood, rosewood, birch, cedar, juniper and pine. These are used in the form of macerations or dry-distilled (rectified) forms.

Many modern perfumes contain synthesized odorants. Synthetics can provide fragrances which are not found in nature. For instance, Calone, a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh ozonous metallic marine scent that is widely used in contemporary perfumes.

Active Vocabulary

Fragrant – ароматний

essential oils – ефірні олії

compound – компоненти

odour – запах, аромат

solvent – розчинник

manufacture – виготовляти

extract – робити екстракт

source – джерело

perfume – парфуми

eau de pafume – парфумована вода

perfume de toilette – туалетна вода

eau de Cologne – одеколон

after shave – крем після гоління

smell – запах

oakmoss – кора дуба

labdanum – лаванда

ambergris – амбра

birch – береза

cedar – кедр

juniper – ялівець

distill – дистилювати, очищати

contain – містити

scent – запах, аромат, пахощі

origin – походження

contemporary – сучасний

Task 1

Match a word with its definition

Floral Wood Green Fresh synthesized odorants Chypre Perfume Ambered, or "Oriental

a)perfume with fragrances of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum; b)perfume with flowers fragrance; c) perfume with ambergris fragrance; d) perfume with fragrance of cut grass, crushed green leaf and cucumber-like scents; e) Aquatic, Oceanic, or Ozonic perfume; f) fragrances which are not found in nature; g) mixture of aroma compounds used to give a pleasant scent; h) Fragrances that are dominated by sandalwood, cedarwood and patchouli.

Task 2

1. Find in the text synonyms to the next words:

Aroma; amber perfume; fresh perfume; modern.

b)Find in the text international words;

c) Find in the text related words to the next words:

Fragrant, odour, wood.

Unit 12

Text 1