Text b. Sewing Tools and Aids

You and your machine cannot do the sewing job alone. There are several tools and aids that you should also know about. Some of these tools or aids are necessary. Others just make your task a bit easier. All of your tools should be organized in one place. A basket or box will hold everything ready for use. Sewing tools are hand-operated instruments used in sewing. They are long-lasting pieces of equipment that make each step in the sewing process easier, faster, and more accurate. There are basically six groups of tools. They are grouped according to their use: measuring tools, pinning tools, cutting tools, marking tools, pressing tools, and stitching and turning tools.

You should learn the names of the tools. Try to use one or two new ones with each garment you sew. Remember, it will take practice to learn to use them skilfully. Take good care of your tools. The proper tools will add to the success of your finished project.

Measuring Tools.

Measuring tools are critical to a properly fitting garment. Three measuring tools are essential: the tape measure, the yardstick or meterstick, and the hem gauge.

Measuring Tools and Aids.

1. Tape measure – a flexible measuring tool for taking body measurements. It measures both round or flat surfaces.

2. Yardstick or meterstick – a rigid tool used to take and mark long straight measurements. It is made of wood, plastic, or metal.

3. Hem gauge – a tool used to accurately mark curved and straight hems. It is metal or plastic. A metal hem gauge can be left in the hem while pressing.

4. Transparent ruler – a ruler that the sewer can see through. The tool is useful for marking pleats.

5. Skirt marker – a device to accurately measure skirt hems. There are different types: pin marker, chalk marker, or combination pin-and-chalk marker.

6. French curve – a tool helpful for redrawing curved pattern lines, such as armholes and necklines.

7. Hip curve – a tool used for redrawing gently curved lines.

Pinning Tools.

You will need an adequate number of good pins. These litle items are essential. Do not use rusty or dull pins.

Straight pins are used for securing the pattern to the fabric while cutting. They also hold two or more layers of fabric together while stitching. Use sharp-point pins for woven fabrics. Ball-point pins are good for knits, since the rounded tip does not snag the fabric.

Straight pins can be purchased with three different types of heads: flats, colored ball, and “T”. The colored ball pins, made of glass or plastic, are easy to pick up. T-pins are good for heavy pile fabrics and loosely woven fabrics. Stainless steel pins are a good choice since they do not rust.

You should use a pin cushion instead of a box. With a pin cushion, pins are easier to handle.

Cutting Tools.

Cutting tools are precision instruments and should be handled carefully. Many people do not know the difference between scissors and shears. They are not the same tool. Scissors are usually smaller and are used for clipping and trimming. Shears have long blades and are used for cutting out fabric pieces. There are many specialized types of scissors and shears. Keep your scissors and shears so they can do their job properly.

Cutting Tools and Aids

1. Sewing scissors – pointed for trimming and clipping work. The two handles are the same size, and the blades are 5 to 6 inches long.

2. Shears – used for cutting fabrics. The two handles are shaped differently, to fit the hand comfortably. The blades are 6 to 12 inches long.

3. Pinking or scalloping shears – used to cut a decorative edge that reduces raveling of the fabric.

4. Embroidery scissors – used for light detail work, like cutting threads, ripping stitches, and cutting buttonholes.

5. Buttonhole scissors – uesd for cutting open buttonholes.

6. Electric scissors – powered by a battery or other source of electricity. These make cutting faster.

7. Seam ripper – aids in removing stitches from fabric; lifts thread away from fabric before cutting.

8. Thread clippers – used for clipping threads quickly.

9. Rotary cutter and cutting mat – used to cut long, straight fabric strips quickly. Be sure to cut on the protective mat.

Marking Tools.

It will be necessary to transfer markings accurately from the paper pattern to your fabric. The tool most often used is probably the tracing wheel (used with carbon paper).

1. Tracing wheels – used with tailor’s carbon to trasfer pattern markings to fabric. There are three basic types: a sawtooth tracing wheel that marks sheer fabric without carbon paper; a blunt-tooth tracing wheel that can be used on any fabric; and a smoth-edged wheel on knits.

2. Tailor’s carbon paper – used with a tracing wheel to create a temporary marking on fabric. The color of carbon paper used should show but should be close to the color of the fabric.

3. Tailor’s chalk – an oil-free chalk for transferring markings.

4. Tailor’s pencil – an oil-free chalk in pencil form.

Pressing Tools.

Good pressing tools will help you produce a professional-looking finished garment. Some of the pressing tools listed are essential. The most important are the iron, ironing board, and pressing cloths.

1. Iron – an electrically heated appliance for flattening .

2. Ironing board – a padded flat surface for ironing and pressing. The padding resists the heat of the iron.

3. Pressing cloth – used to cover fabric while pressing. It distributes heat, prevents scorching, and, when wet, creates steam.

4. Tailor’s ham – a device used to shape curved seams, darts, and the like while pressing.

5. Sleeve board – a small ironing board that permits pressing of sleeves without creasing.

6. Point presser – used to press points such as those on collars.

7. Seam roll – used to press seams without creating press marks.

8. Sponge – used to wet press cloth to create steam for pressing.

Stitching and Turning Tools.

Not all of your sewing will be done on a machine. Every garment requires a bit of hand stitching to add finishing touches. The assorted tools used for hand sewing are called notions. Your hand sewing job will be easy if you have a good supply of notions. Even a beginner’s sewing box should include the stitching and turning tools listed.

1. Hand sewing needles – various needles designed for specific purposes. They vary in length and eye shape. There are four basic categories: general hand sewing, needlecraft, darning, and heavy-duty sewing.

2. Needle threader – makes threading of needles easier.

3. Thimble – covers and protects the middle finger as it pushes a needle through fabric. It should fit the middle finger properly.

4. Pointer and creaser – a wooden tool designed to help turn corners and hold seams open while pressing.

Exercise 6. Answer the questions.

1.What measuring tools do you know?

2.What kind of pinning tools do you use?

3.Name the main cutting tools.What is the difference between them?

4.What tools do you use for transfering pattern markings to fabric?

5.What is tracing wheel?

6.What are the most important pressing tools?

7.What stitching and turning tools do you usually use?

Unit 4