Dolman Sleeve

This sleeve is attached to the bodice before the underarm is stitched because of the deep armhole. There will be very little ease in the cap of the sleeve. Pin the sleeve into the armhole, right sides together, matching notches, markings and keeping seam lines even at underarm. Ease in fullness of sleeve cap so that it fits smoothly. Baste and stitch the sleeve in place. Press the seam open, clipping curve at intervals so that the seam will lie flat. Pin underarm seam of bodice and sleeve, right sides together. Stitch the seam and press it open. Finish lower edge of sleeve.

Raglan Sleeve

Stitch the shoulder dart of the sleeve and press the dart open. Pin sleeve to bodice front and back, right sides together, matching notches and edges. The sleeve section will require easing when it is joined to the bodice but not enough to require a gathering thread. Stitch the seam and clip curve at intervals. Press seam open. Pin the underarm seam of bodice and sleeve, and stitch in a continuous seam. Press seam open. Finish lower edge of sleeve.

Kimono Sleeve without a Gusset

This is the easiest sleeve, so if you are a beginner, look for styles with this sort of sleeve if it is flattering to your figure.

Join the bodice front and back at the shoulder with a plain seam. Press this curved seam open over a tailor’s ham to retain the curve. Join bodice front to back at the underarm seam, right sides together, matching notches. Stitch seam and clip curve at intervals. Press seam open. This seam will need reinforcement under the arm, since it will be subject to a great deal of stress in normal body movement. Reinforce it by basting a piece of woven seam binding about 1¹/₂ inches long to the inside of the bodice along the curve of the underarm seam. Turn bodice right side out. Stitch ¹/₈ inch from the seam, through bodice, seam allowance and seam binding, along both sides and ends. Or if you do not wish the stitching to show on the right side, baste the seam binding to the seam line on the inside and stitch it only to the seam allowance on both sides of the seam.

Exercise 1. Answer the following questions:

1. What are basic types of sleeves?

2. What are the signs of the inexperienced and careless of a seamstress?

3. When should the sleeve length be determined?

4. When should you finish the lower edge of sleeve?

5. What kind of sleeves is the easiest?

Exercise 2. Find the English equivalents of such words from the text:

Знаючий(досвідчений), некрасивий (неприглядний), складки, зморшки, цільний, той, що складається з двох частин, лікоть, бічний шов (під пахвою), пояс(корсаж), мілкий (не глибокий), придавати форму.

Exercise 3. Match each word in the left-hand column with the best meaning in the right-hand column.

1. Two-piece set-in sleeve a) has a more shallow cap and has much less

fullness.

2. Shirt sleeve b) is attached to the bodice before the

underarm is stitched because of the deep

armhole.

3. Dolman sleeve c) is found mostly in suits and coats.

Exercise 4. Translate into English:

1. Всі вшивні рукави викроюються з окатом рукава, який більший за пройму, в яку вони повинні вставлятись.

2. Починаючи з центру рукава витягуйте нитку до тих пір, поки окат рукава підійде проймі.

3. Обом частинам вшитого рукава придають форму потрібну, щоб створити потрібний рукав.

4. Рукав кімоно без вставки – це найпростіший вид рукава. Якщо ви початківець в шитті, знайдіть фасони з цим видом рукава.

Exercise 5. Work in pairs. Have a talk with your partner about the latest fashion style in sleeves.