Text b: Cuffs

Key Words and Phrases:

Turnback cuffs – відкладні манжети, cut in –вставляти, interfaced –вставлений з прокладкою, facing –обшивка, bias facing –коса бейка, shaped facing –підкрійна обшивка, placket –розріз (для застібки).

Sleeves are often given interest by the use of cuffs. There are many different types, each one creating a definite fashion effect. They may be straight or shaped, closed or open, applied or cut in one with the sleeve.

Turnback cuffs may be applied as separate pieces or are sometimes cut in one with the sleeve and faced. Applied cuffs are either straight or shaped and can be closed or open at the ends. The straight cuff has a fold at the upper edge and fits close to the sleeve. The shaped cuff has a seam at the upper edge and can be curved so that it will flare away from the sleeve. The cuff cut in one with the sleeve can be made with or without an opening. When an opening is used, it may be in the seam.

Cuffs are often interfaced to give them body and firmness. For a straight cuff, cut the interfacing half the width of the cuff or to the fold line; for a shaped cuff, use cuff pattern; for a cuff cut in one with the sleeve, the sleeve facing piece.

Cuffs are applied with a bias facing, a shaped facing or a self-finish.

Straight Cuff Closed at Ends

Join the seam edges of the interfacing with a lapped seam. Stitch seam of cuff and press it open. Baste the interfacing to the inside of cuff with one edge along fold line. Slip-stitch to fold line. Fold cuff, wrong sides together, and baste one inch from open edge to hold sections of cuff together until it has been attached to the sleeve.

Straight Cuff with Open Ends

Baste the interfacing to the inside of cuff with one edge along fold line. Slip-stitch interfacing to fold line. Fold cuff, right sides together, and stitch ends. Trim interfacing close to stitching and grade the seams so that the widest seam is on the edge without the interfacing. This keeps seam edges from pressing through to the right side of cuff. Turn cuff to right side and press thoroughly while it is flat. Slip-stitch the open ends of the cuff together for ѕ inch up from the open edge. Baste layers of fabric together, one inch from the open edge.

Shaped Cuff Closed at Ends

Join the ends of the interfacing with a lapped seam. Stitch end seams of each cuff section and press open.

Baste the interfacing to the inside of the under-cuff section. Stitch the under-cuff section to the top cuff section at the unnotched edge, right sides together and seams matched. Trim interfacing close to stitching and grade seam allowances. Turn cuff to right side and baste seamed edge rolling seam slightly to the inside. Baste cuff one inch from open edge.

Shaped Cuff with Open Ends

Baste the interfacing to the under section of the cuff. Place right sides of cuff sections together and stitch at unnotched edges. Grade the seams and turn cuff to right side. Baste close to edge, rolling seam slightly to the inside. Slip-stitch the open ends of the cuff together for ѕ inch up from the open edge. Baste cuff 1 inch from the open edge.

Cuff Applied with Bias Facing

Roll the lower edge of cuff slightly toward the side with the interfacing to get the amount of ease necessary to allow the cuff to turn back, and baste the cut edges together. Note that the cut edges will not be even. Baste the cuff to the right side of the sleeve. Cut a strip of bias fabric the length of the lower edge of the sleeve plus a seam allowance. Place the bias on top of cuff, right sides together, and baste. Join ends with a plain seam. Stitch around the lower edge of sleeve through all thicknesses of fabric. Grade seam allowances and press seam toward sleeve. Turn under free edge of bias and hem to inside of sleeve. Turn cuff to right side of sleeve.