Unit 2 Text a. Getting Ready to Sew

Key Words and Phrases:

notch – зарубка, зубець, позначка; posture – поза; pad – м’яка прокладка, подушечка; cutting – розкрій; laying out – розкладка, розмітка; marking – маркірування; dress stand – манекен; tracing wheel – різець; flaw – дефект, недолік; facing – оздоблювання, облицьовування; alignment – розміщення по одній лінії, співпадання; encounter – зіштовхуватися; be aware – знати (про щось), усвідомлювати; accommodate – пристосовувати; deal with – займатися (чимось), мати справу (з чимось); cope with – справлятися (з чимось); construct – виготовляти, конструювати.

Fashions are constantly changing but the basic principles of garment construction remain the same. There are many things to consider when starting to make clothes. We all want to sew successful; and to produce a pleasing, attractive result is very satisfying. Successful dressmaking begins with a pattern as nearly correct in size as possible. Both the size and type of pattern selected will influence the possible difficulties to be encountered in making a well-fitted garment.

There is a number of decisions to be made before the pattern is selected: the purpose or need for the proposed garment; the style of pattern that fits this purpose; consideration of the pattern, and availablity of the pattern in the type and size that most nearly conforms to the body measurements.

Taking Measurements

The four measurements – best, waist, hip, and back waist length – may be sufficient for you in determining your pattern size. If you are aware of any problems you have experienced with garments that fit improperly, you may need to take additional measurements to assist you in making this decision.

Pattern Layout, Cutting, Marking

It is essential to check the fabric carefully before laying on the pattern pieces. Open up the fabric and check for flaws in the weaving, printing or dyeing. If the fabric is flawed, mark it with a coloured thread so that it can be avoidedwhen the pattern pieces are laid on.

Check that fabric is on correct grain to avoid distortion of the style lines of the garment; otherwise it will not ‘hang’ correctly on the figure. Check the ‘gain’ on woven fabrics by pulling a crosswise thread at the end of the fabric.

Some fabrics have ‘one-way’ designs such as floral patterns, geometric shapes and irregular checks.

Place all the pattern pieces in the same direction. Checks, stripes or any other patterns in the fabric must be matched at seam lines on corresponding pattern pieces. This is done by matching balance marks (notches) when laying out and when pinning the pattern pieces into position.

When you are sure that the pieces are laid out correctly, pin them to the fabric. Place the pins diagonally just inside the seam lines to prevent the fabric from puckering. Cut out the pieces along the cutting line, cutting the main pieces first.

Before the pattern is removed from each cut garment section, construction match points must be marked. Marking includes a variety of techniques used to temporarily code pattern symbols onto the cut fabric sections: thread marking (tailor’s tacks), tracing wheel, pin and chalk. Marking of the construction match points ensures accurate alignment of fabric sections before the seams are stitched.

Fitting

Fitting is an important art of dressmaking. Skill in fitting comes with practice in observing every detail of the garment. This is only achieved by building up experience in a variety of situations concerned with the fitting of garments in different fabrics and for different figure types.

The garment must be worn right side out when it is being tried on, and an underslip must be worn for dress and skirt fittings as this enables the garment to hang smoothly over the figure. It is also important to wear the correct shoes as varying heel heights can affect the figure posture and alter the appearance of the overall silhouette.

Exercise 1. Translate into Ukrainian and make ten sentences with following phrazes.

To have a practical knowledge of dressmaking, to create a style on a dress stand, to have a sense of proportion. To observe every detail of the garment; to be comfortable to wear; to tack together on the correct seamlines; to wear right side out; to wear the correct shoes. To determine the patern size; bust, waist, hip, back waist length; to take measurements. To check the fabric; correct grain; ‘one-way’ designs of fabrics; to pin the pattern pieces to the fabric; to cut out the pieces along the cutting line; to transfer the construction marks to the fabric. To accommodate the pattern to a particular figure type; to know the figure problems; to make alterations to the standard pattern; to be accurate; to make alterations before the fabric is cut out.

Exercise 2. Use verbs in brackets in the right tense form.

1. Many women and girls (to like) to sew. 2. When she went to school she (to attend) home economics classes. A professional tailor (to give) them the fashion sewing course then. 3. Persons who (to sew) are interested in fashion. 4. What magazine is she reading? – She (to read) the latest fashion magazine. I ... already ... it (to read) and know what styles and colours (to be) in fashion next season. I usually (to read) the section on fashion sewing which most fashion magazines (to have). 5. Next year she (to enter) the Clothing and Footwear Institute. Like many other students she (to learn) to design and construct clothes.

Exercise 3. Put general questions (“Yes”/“No” questions to every sentence)

A. Is Mary Gostelow a fashion writer? B. Yes, she is.

B. Does the book begin with Contents? A. No, it doesn’t.

Mary Gostelow is a writer. She is also known as an embroiderer, dressmaker and designer. She wrote the book Dress Sense in 1985. The book begins with chapters on style, colour and materials which best suit one’s own personality and figure. The book then divides into chapters on dressing for particular roles. It covers travelling, work, exeecise and holiday clothes. There are sections on dressmaking and alterations. There are also sections on the care of garments of all types. A final chapter looks at clothes of the future. The book will be useful to women of all ages and life-styles. It will tell you how to dress for business, home, travel, sport or entertaining. I have found it very interesting. I advise you to read it.