Patch Pockets

For pockets that are to be applied to the right side of the garment, baste-mark the location of the pocket on the right side of the garment.

If a patch pocket is applied in a fabric that should be matched, such as printed, checked, or plaid fabric, be sure to cut the pocket so it will match the fabric design on the garment exactly at the place the pocket is lo be applied.

Unlined patch pockets. Turn under the raw edge ¹/₄ inch at the top of the pocket. Edge-stitch close to the folded edge. Turn down the top of the pocket on the right side along the fold-line marking. Beginning at hem fold, stitch around three sides of pocket along the seamline. Fasten thread ends at the tops of pocket. Trim the seam allowance from ¹/₄ to ³/₈ inch and clip points diagonally at top corners. For square-corner and pointed pockets, cut diagonally across the corners in order to miter the seam allowances. For rounded pockets, cut small notches in the seam allowance on curved edge. Turn the top hem allowance to the wrong side. Press in position. Turn under the seam allowances along the line of stitching.

On square-corner and pointed pockets, fold miters in the seam allowances at the corner points. Press seam allowances flat. Baste around the pocket close to the edge. If you wish the hem allowance to be top-stitched in position, turn pocket to wrong side and stitch close to the folded hem edge. Fasten thread ends by tying them on the wrong side of pocket. Pin the pocket, right side up, to the right side of the garment, matching corners of pocket to markings accurately. Baste in position. Top-stitch pocket in position close to edge, starting at upper edge of pocket. The top corners may be reinforced by stitching a tiny triangle of fabric at the corner on wrong side. Fasten thread ends securely. Remove bastings and press. If the pocket is to be used mainly for decoration and you do not wish the stitching to show, slip-stitch the pocket in position with tiny, fine stitches.

Lined patch pocket. Stitch the right side of the lining to the right side of the pocket at the upper edge, leaving an opening at the center of the seam. Press seam toward lining. Fold pocket at seam line, right sides together. Baste and stitch lining to pocket around outer edges. Grade seam allowances and turn pocket to right side through opening. Baste close to edges rolling seam slightly toward the lining. Slip-stitch the opening and press pocket flat. Pin and baste the pocket to the right side of garment matching edges of pockets to markings accurately. Top-stitch or slip-stitch in position in the same manner as for unlined patch pocket.

Patch pocket with flap. Construct and apply pocket same as lined patch pocket. Stitch lining to flap, right sides together, leaving upper edge open. Grade seam allowance and turn to right side. Baste close to edges, rolling seam slightly toward the lining. Press flap. Pin and baste right side of flap to right side of garment about ³/₄ inch above pocket or at markings. Stitch in place and fasten ends of thread securely. Trim seam allowance of flap section to ¹/₈ inch. Turn in edge of lining section and ends diagonally so they do not show when flap is pressed down. Stitch turned-in edges of lining and press flap down.