Shirt Cuff

Baste interfacing to cuff facing. Trim away interfacing scam allowance at upper edge. Stitch cuff to cuff facing, right sides together, leaving upper edge open. Trim interfacing close to stitching and grade seam al­lowances. Turn to right side and press. Baste and stitch cuff facing to inside of lower edge of sleeve, adjusting gathers evenly. Press, seam toward cuff fac­ing. Turn under free edge of cuff and top-stitch over scam on right side. Continue top-stitching around entire cuff. Close cuff with button and buttonhole.

French Cuff

The French cuff is made the same as the shirt cuff. Before applying the cuff to the sleeve edge turn under-lap of placket to the inside and baste at lower edge. Apply the French cuff to the lower edge of sleeve same as the shirt cuff. Make buttonholes in both edges of cuff. Fold the finished cuff in half and fasten with cuff links or linked buttons.

Exercise 1. Answer the following questions:

1. What types of cuffs are there?

2. How may turnback cuffs be applied?

3. What are the differences between straight and shaped cuffs?

4. How are cuffs applied?

5. How is the French cuff made?

Exercise 2. Find the English equivalents of such words from the text:

Згин, оброблений, бути зігнутим, розширятись, міцність, підрізати (підрівнювати), ретельно, петля, скріпляти, запонки для манжетів.

Exercise 3. Match each word in the left-hand column with the best meaning in the right-hand column.

1. The straight cuff closed at ends a) begins from basting interfacing to

cuff facing.

2. The shaped cuff with open ends b) begins from joining the seam edges

of the interfacing with a lapped

seam.

3) The shirt cuff c) is fastened with cuff links.

4. The French cuff d) begins from basting the interfacing

to the under section of the cuff.

Exercise 4. Translate into English:

1. Існує багато різних видів манжетів, кожен з яких визначає тенденцію в моді.

2. Манжети часто ш’ються з прокладками, які надають їм форму і міцність.

3. Приметайте прокладку до внутрішньої сторони манжета так, щоб один край йшов вздовж лінії згину.

4. Виверніть манжет на лицеву сторону і прасуйте ретельно до тих пір, поки він не стане рівний.

5. Французький манжет закривається манжетними запонками.

Text C: Collars

Key Words and Phrases:

Detachable –той, що знімається, flat collar –прилеглий, плосколежачий, coarse –грубий (матеріал), decided roll –сильне заокруглення, Peter Pan collar –маленький, круглий, плосколежачий комір, convertible –відкритий, scalloped –зубчатий, band collar –комір стійка, turtle-neck collar –комір виду “хомут”.

The collar is about the most important part of any garment, and must fit well. Although there is a variety of collar designs and shapes they all fit into one of three groups—round, pointed, or collar and undercollar cut in one.

All collars except the detachable ones are normally interfaced to give them needed body and shaping. The type of interfacing to select will depend upon the design of the collar and the fabric used.

Flat collars, or those which have only a slight roll, normally have the upper and undercollar cut from the same pattern piece. The interfacing is also cut from this piece and on the same grain as the collar sections. When interfacing small flat collars in a smooth, lighter medium-weight fabric, you may wish to try iron-on interfacing. This is placed face down on the wrong side of the collar and pressed in position until it is bonded to the fabric. This eliminates the need to stitch interfacing to the collar, but is not really successful for use on coarse, heavy fabrics or for tailored garments.

Collars which have a decided roll need two separate pattern pieces—one for the top and one for the undercollar. The undercollar is slightly smaller than the top section, to allow the top collar to roll properly. The interfacing is cut from the undercollar piece.

When the top and undercollar are cut in one piece, to be folded in half to form the collar, the interfacing is cut only half the width of the collar pattern piece or to the fold line.

If you are using sheer fabric, cut the interfacing from the top collar pattern piece and baste the interfacing to the top collar section. This prevents the seam from showing through the sheer collar when it is finished.

In some patterns, especially suits and coats, there is a separate pattern piece for the interfacing. This interfacing is cut on the bias with a seam at the center back so that both sides of the collar are cut on the same grain and will roll the same.