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80 Part I: Project Prep

Some components, such as speakers or buzzers, have holes in flanges that you can use to secure the component to the wall of the box with screws. Use the flange holes as a template to mark the locations to drill holes.

Some components are meant to be panel-mounted but don’t have threads. For example, in Chapter 11, we use a two-piece, LED panel-mount socket in which one part of the socket slides through the hole and onto the other half and snaps in place, securing the LED.

In some cases, you have to mount microphone cartridges that don’t come with threads or snap sockets in the walls of boxes. Simply drill a hole that’s just big enough in diameter to slip the cartridge in with a snug fit. If you’re using a wooden box, the wall of the box should be thick enough to secure the microphone cartridge. If you’re using a plastic box, you’ll probably need to secure the microphone cartridge with glue.

Sticking things on the box

If you use screws to attach a component to a wooden box and you want to put something else over the screw head, use a flathead screw, as shown in Figure 4-16. When you don’t need to keep the surface flush, panhead screws are just fine.

Figure 4-16:

Keep the surface flush with flathead screws.

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Chapter 4: Running Down the Skills You Need 81

When stranded wire works

If you’re connecting a component in the lid of your box to a terminal block on the breadboard in the bottom of the box, that wire will be bent back into the box when you close the lid. In this case, it’s best to use stranded wire, which is more flexible than solid wire. (Refer to Figure 4-9 for a comparison.)

Be sure to leave enough length of wire for the box to open and lightly solder the strands at the end of the wire together before inserting them into the terminal block so none of them poke out and short the circuit.

For items with flat surfaces such as breadboards or battery packs, Velcro or similar materials are useful to secure them in your box. However, if you remove breadboards that you have secured in a box with Velcro, be careful. Breadboards have a thin sheet of plastic or paper on the back that can peel off if you’re not careful.

You can make custom mounts out of metal bars, screws, and nuts, as shown in Figure 4-17, which shows also how we mount the motors in Chapter 13.

Figure 4-17:

Make a custom mount with a metal bar and screws.

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82 Part I: Project Prep

You can also use wooden dowels and cable ties as we did to mount the microphone in Chapter 6 (see Figures 4-18 and 4-19).

Figure 4-18:

Make a custom mount with wooden dowels and cable ties.

Figure 4-19:

With the microphone cartridge in place.

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Chapter 4: Running Down the Skills You Need 83

You can use wire clips to secure wires to the side of boxes so they are out of the way as you work, as shown in Figure 4-20.

Figure 4-20:

Use wire clips to secure the wires.

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84 Part I: Project Prep

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Part II

Sounding Off!

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In this part . . .

We thought we’d start you working on projects that provide a bang, so this first set of projects is all

about making noise. The chapters in this part set lights dancing to music and help you pick up sounds at a distance with a parabolic microphone. You also get to build your own AM radio.

Along the way, you’ll also pick some information about working with sound synthesizer chips as well as using components to detect various audio frequencies, microphone sensitivity, and more.

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Chapter 5

Making Light Dance to the Music

In This Chapter

Taking a peek at the schematic

Checking off the parts list

Breadboarding the circuit

Calibrating your frequencies

Lighting up to music

Music hath charms to soothe the savage breast, as the saying goes. Whether you feel particularly savage or not, if you enjoy listening to

all kinds of music, you’ll enjoy this project. Here, we combine light and sound in an interesting way: We show you how to set up two rows of lights that illuminate to different frequencies of sound. When you put on a rowdy piece of music — say, swing or reggae — the lights dance all around. Every piece of music has its own, unique effect.

We chose to arrange our lights like notes on a music staff, but you could put them in any arrangement you like. By working through this fun project, you get to know more about frequency filters, operational amplifiers, and how music can make things light up and get your toes tapping.

The Big Picture: Project Overview

After you complete this project, you’ll have a display of LEDs that light up in response to highor low-frequency sounds. You can see our LED musical notes arrangement in the finished display in Figure 5-1.

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88

Part II: Sounding Off!

Figure 5-1:

The final product. Dance to the music!

Here’s the overview of what you’ll be up to in the Dance to the Music project. You will

Put together an electronic circuit to turn on the LEDs in response to sounds.

Half of the LEDs will flash to high-frequency sounds, and the other half will flash to low-frequency sounds.

Create a template for the musical notes; then place the template on the box and drill holes in the top of a wooden box for the LEDs.

Wire two groups of LEDs and resistors.

Turn on the juice (that is, pop in the batteries and flip the switch), and then turn on some music.

The circuit sends current to each group of LEDs in response to the music.

Get dancing yourself.

This one’s infectious!

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Chapter 5: Making Light Dance to the Music

89

Scoping Out the Schematic

Music and light don’t just happen: You have to start with a plan — or in this case, a schematic. You get to put together one large breadboard and two LED arrays for this project.

Take a look at the schematic for the breadboard shown in Figure 5-2.

Figure 5-2:

The schematic for your Dance to the Music project.

LED4

R14

LED8

Q4

R18

LED3

R13

LED7

Q3

R17

LED2

R12

LED6

Q2

R16

LED1

R11

LED5

Q1

R15

 

 

 

1

½ IC2

R10

 

 

8

 

4

 

 

 

+

 

-

 

 

 

3

 

2

 

 

 

 

 

 

R9

 

 

C3

 

 

R8

 

C2

R7

 

 

 

 

+

 

 

 

 

R5

1

½ IC1

R6

 

 

 

8

4

 

 

 

 

-

+

 

 

 

 

2

3

 

 

 

 

R2

R3

R4

 

 

 

C1

+6V

 

 

 

 

R1

 

 

 

 

 

6 V

MIC

 

 

 

 

S1

 

 

 

 

+ -

 

 

 

 

LED12

R31

LED16

Q8

 

R35

LED11

R30

LED 15

Q7

 

R34

LED10

R29

LED 14

Q6

 

R33

LED9

R28

LED 13

Q5

 

R32

 

 

 

7

½ IC2

R27

 

 

 

8

4

 

 

 

 

+

-

 

 

 

 

5

6

 

 

 

 

 

 

R26

 

 

 

R25

 

C6

 

C5

 

R24

 

+

 

 

R22

7

½ IC1

R23

 

8

4

 

 

-

+

 

 

6

5

 

+6V

R19

R20

R21

 

C4

+6V

 

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