7.2.2 Anti-Inflammatory Effects

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137

Inulin asaNatural Ingredient

inCosmetics andPersonal Care Products

PraveenHalagali, VamshiKrishnaTippavajhala,

MahalaxmiRathnanand, HimanshuSharma,

andRashmiPathak

Abstract

Inulin is frequently utilized in cosmetics and personal care products due to its

numerous applications and possible health advantages. Inulin extracts from

plants like Jerusalem artichoke and chicory have been found to have antimicro-

bial effects, making them useful as natural preservatives in cosmetic formula-

tions. Inulin is known for its ability to attract moisture and maintain skin

hydration; inulin also forms a protective layer on the skin, leaving it smooth and

supple. Its prebiotic properties nourish benecial bacteria in the skin microbi-

ome, promoting a balanced ora that can reduce redness, irritation, and signs of

aging. Studies suggest that in combination with probiotics, inulin aids in the

repair of UV-damaged skin by stimulating natural defense mechanisms. Due to

its diverse functions, inulin gained its position in skincare and cosmetics prod-

ucts, where it is praised for improving the look and health of the skin. Chemical

modications, such acetylation, can also be applied to inulin to create derivatives

with improved functioning for cosmetic purposes. These altered inulins can be

employed to stabilize the dispersions of other cosmetic substances or as vehicles

for the delivery of active compounds. However, inulin’s versatility, natural ori-

P. Halagali · V. K. Tippavajhala · M. Rathnanand

Department of Pharmaceutics, Manipal College of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Manipal

Academy of Higher Education, Manipal, Karnataka, India

e-mail: praveen.mcopsmpl2023@learner.manipal.edu; vamshi.krishna@manipal.edu;

mahalaxmi.r@manipal.edu

H. Sharma (*)

Teerthanker Mahaveer College of Pharmacy, Teerthanker Mahaveer University,

Moradabad, Uttar Pradesh, India

R. Pathak

Department of Pharmacy, Invertis University, Bareilly, Uttar Pradesh, India

138

gins, and favorable biological qualities make it a desirable component in the

production of safe and effective cosmetic and personal care products.

Keywords

Inulin · Cosmetics · Extraction method · Regulatory status · Personal care

products

7.1 Introduction

German scientist Valentin Rose isolated inulin from the roots of the Inula helenium

plant and made the initial discovery of inulin in 1804. J. Irvine researched the

molecular makeup of inulin in the 1920s and created techniques for isolating it

because inulin is neither reabsorbed nor secreted after being introduced into the

body, and researchers started using it to test kidney function in the 1930s. This

shows that inulin is a valuable biomarker. When added to cosmetic formulations,

inulin was discovered to have positive topical benets by Keri and Kristof’s study

in the 1980s. As a result, inulin was used more frequently in skincare and hair care

products (Anderson-Dekkers etal. 2021). Today, inulin is a frequently used ingredi-

ent in cosmetics and personal care products due to its moisturizing, prebiotic, and

skin-soothing properties. It is highly valued for its ability to improve hydration,

reduce irritation, and preserve a healthy balance of skin ora. The primary source of

inulin extraction is chicory root, which has a long history of use as a medicinal plant

and coffee substitute. The extraction process is the same as that used to make sugar

from sugar beets. Inulin is a prebiotic ber with several health advantages for skin

care and cosmetics applications. Inulin, a naturally occurring humectant, draws

moisture from the surrounding air to keep the skin hydrated and helps to avoid dry-

ness. Inulin leaves the skin smooth and supple, enhancing its overall look by creat-

ing a thin, protective coating on it. As a prebiotic, inulin provides nourishment to

good bacteria, enabling them to proliferate in the skin’s microbiome. This can lessen

redness, irritation, and aging symptoms. According to studies, probiotics and inulin

may aid in the restoration of UV-damaged skin by encouraging the skin’s natural

defense mechanism, beta-defensin synthesis (Nizioł-Łukaszewska etal. 2019).

Inulin, a naturally occurring polysaccharide, has a variety of applications in cos-

metics due to its positive characteristics. Inulin contains humectant qualities, which

means it may draw moisture to the skin. This makes it benecial in skincare prod-

ucts that aim to moisturize and soften the skin. Inulin can enhance the texture and

feel of cosmetic products. It can enhance the spreadability and smoothness of

creams and lotions, making them simpler to apply and providing a luxury sensation

to the skin. When applied topically to the skin, inulin forms a thin, exible lm.

This lm protects the skin from external stresses and contaminants while also acting

as a moisture barrier. Inulin is a prebiotic, which means it promotes the growth of

healthy microorganisms on the skin. This can help to maintain a healthy skin micro-

biota, perhaps contributing to better skin barrier function and general skin health.

P. Halagali et al.

139

Fig. 7.1 The cosmetic and personal care products containing inulin

Inulin is sourced from natural sources such as chicory root and is frequently used in

cosmetics that emphasize natural or organic components. It is considered a safe and

well-tolerated substance for topical use. These properties make it a exible compo-

nent in skincare formulas that aim to improve hydration, texture, and overall skin

look. Figure 7.1 shows the cosmetic and personal care items that include inulin

(Nizioł-Łukaszewska etal. 2019).

7.2 Benefits ofInulin inCosmetics

7.2.1 Stability andMoisturizing Properties

Inulin may partially hydrolyze at high temperatures and under very acidic condi-

tions due to the β-(2-1) link between fructose units, although it remains stable above

100°C. Inulin hydrolysis requires a high temperature, a low pH, and a low dry

7 Inulin asaNatural Ingredient inCosmetics andPersonal Care Products

140

matter content (Zhang etal. 2024). Inulin hydrolysis occurs when conditions such

as pH4.0 and a temperature over 90°C, or pH3.0 and a temperature above 70°C,

are met for a prolonged duration. However, “free water” is required to make this

procedure easier (Joseph etal. 2024). Even at high temperatures and in acidic situ-

ations, gelatinized inulin cannot degrade in the absence of water. Food may have a

longer shelf life, have less water activity, and be better preserved when inulin is

added. It is a very hygroscopic substance (Görgüç etal. 2024).

7.2.2 Anti-Inflammatory Effects

When added to cosmetic products, inulin has a number of positive effects on skin

health. It does this by fostering the growth of “good” bacteria such as Streptococcus

mitis, Halomonas desiderata, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Staphylococcus

equorum, as well as preventing the growth of harmful bacteria such as Sphingomonas

anadarae, Escherichia coli, Corynebacterium striatum, Staphylococcus aureus, and

Pseudomonas stutzeri (Sarang etal. 2024). This change in the skin microbiota aids

in the reduction of inammation. Pro-inammatory mediator levels have been dem-

onstrated to drop inulin, which may help reduce the symptoms of inammatory skin

diseases like psoriasis (Sharma etal. 2024). Inulin used topically can help immedi-

ately lessen inammation of the skin (Wang etal. 2024). Antioxidant qualities of

inulin aid in preventing oxidative stress and slowing down the aging process of the

skin. Additionally, it encourages the creation of hydrating lactic acid by good bac-

teria, which further enhances skin moisture (Ashique etal. 2024). Additionally, it

has been shown that taking inulin orally lowers inammatory inltrates and inam-

matory cell signaling in dermatitis, indicating that inulin possesses anti- inammatory

properties that are systemic and may help the skin (Liang etal. 2024).

7.2.3 Prebiotic Benefits forSkin Microbiome

According to the search results, the prebiotic ingredient inulin can have a number of

positive effects on the skin microbiome by preventing the formation of dangerous

bacteria like Escherichia coli, Corynebacterium striatum, and Staphylococcus

aureus, and it aids in preserving the growth of Staphylococcus epidermidis and

fostering a balanced, healthy skin microbiotomy (Li etal. 2024a). The skin barrier’s

integrity is preserved and skin hydration is improved. The number of skin barrier

proteins, including claudin 1, desmocollin 1, involucrin, and laggrin, has been

shown to increase with inulin. While helpful commensals like Staphylococcus

equorum, Streptococcus mitis, and Halomonas desiderata are more prevalent,

pathogenic bacteria like Pseudomonas stutzeri and Sphingomonas anadarae are

less common (Davoudi etal. 2024). These involve the ways that inulin inuences

the metabolism of bacteria, promoting the development of benecial bacteria and

the metabolites that they generate, which are positively associated with enhanced

P. Halagali et al.

141

Fig. 7.2 The benets of inulin in cosmetic and personal care products

skin moisture (Lin etal. 2024). The benets of inulin in cosmetic and personal care

products are given in Fig.7.2.

7.3 Applications ofInulin inPersonal Care Products

7.3.1 Skin Whiteners

Skin whiteners are among the most widely used skin care treatments because they

make skin look better (Li etal. 2024b). Preserving the light hue of the skin or main-

taining skin whitening tends to emphasize the distinctions between socioeconomic

strata. Higher classes and the rich avoided the sun by staying indoors and protecting

their lighter skin tones (Corrado etal. 2024; Huang et al. 2016). Melanogenesis

brought on by UV light causes the skin to darken and produces dark-brown melanin

as a consequence. Melanogenesis is aided by the glycoprotein tyrosinase, which is

membrane-located in melanocytes (Calliari etal. 2023). Pigmentation is known to

occur when TRP-1 and TRP-2 convert L-DOPA to L-dopaquinone. Sun lentigo,

melasma, and hyperpigmentation are among the melanin-related dermatological

7 Inulin asaNatural Ingredient inCosmetics andPersonal Care Products

142

diseases for which tyrosinase inhibitors are being researched; nevertheless, their

usage in skin whiteners is limited because of problems with light oxidation, low

water stability, and skin sensitivity (Kapoor et al. 2024). Consequently, durable,

bioactive, and natural substitutes are required to impede the process of skin melano-

genesis (dos Santos Binda etal. 2024). It has been hypothesized that fructans might

be used as cosmeceutical stabilizers. Ascorbic acid and levan- or inulin-type fruc-

tans are known to enhance product stability against oxidation in addition to their

whitening properties (Akram etal. 2024). Several personal care products include

the adaptable component inulin (Table7.1).

7.3.2 Hair Care

The main customer concerns and important criteria for hair care product manufac-

turers are maintaining soft, attractive hair, promoting its growth, and preventing loss

and damage. Numerous things may harm hair, including heat stress, UV rays, chem-

icals used in bleaching and coloring, washing, and more. A hair care product must

Table 7.1 Inulin is a versatile ingredient used in various personal care products due to its bene-

cial properties (Ghali etal. 2024; Sun etal. 2024; Ghavidel etal. 2023)

Product

7.4 Regulatory Status

Since it is a necessary component of our daily diet, inulin is regarded as a dietary

element that may be used in any kind of food category. Nearly all countries consider

inulin to be dietary ber. As previously noted, inulin may be employed as a fat

replacer, allowing nutrition claims to be made based on the food’s reduced fat or

calorie content. The overview of nutrition claims from EU 1924/2006 is given in

Table7.2.

Nutritional statements are permitted in the USA as well; however, in contrast to

the EU, the basis for these claims is the amount of inulin present in each serving

size, not the percentage of the product. A “fat-free” claim, on the other hand, has to

have <0.5g of fat per serving, although a “low fat” claim can have up to 3g of fat.

Dietary ber, such as an “excellent source of ber,” is predicated on a fraction of the

daily recommended intake of 25g/day. Health claims on inulin, such as those about

its prebiotic properties or other advantages, are similarly subject to EU 1924/2006

regulation. Access to a list of approved health claims describing how a chemical

Table 7.2 Overview of nutrition claims from EU 1924/2006 (Bröring etal. 2017)

Claim Conditions

Low energy For liquids, fewer than 20kcal (80kJ)/100mL, and for solids, <40cal

(170kJ)/100g are the thresholds. Tabletop sweeteners have a maximum of

4kcal (17kJ) per serving

Energy-

reduced

A minimum of 30% reduction in energy value (along with a description of the

attribute or attributes that contribute to the meal’s lower energy content)

Energy-free <0.4kcal (1.7kJ) per serving and <4kcal or 17kJ per 100mL are the

requirements for tabletop sweeteners

Low fat Not more than 3g of fat per 100g of solids, or 1.5g of fat per 100mL of

liquid (1.8g per 100mL of semi-skimmed milk)

Fat-free <0.5g per 100g or 100mL (fat-free products with X%>are forbidden)

Source of ber 3g of ber or 1.5g per 100kcal per 100g, at minimum

High ber Approximately 6g of ber per 100g (or 3g per 100kcal)

Reduced

[ingredient]

Minimum 30% decrease in comparison to a comparable product

Increased

[ingredient]

At least a 30% increase over a comparable product

Light/lite Requirements for “reduced” and a description of the characteristic(s) that

make the food light or lite

7 Inulin asaNatural Ingredient inCosmetics andPersonal Care Products

144

affects a physiological function must be provided by no later than January 31, 2010.

The assertions in Article 13 will be supported by credible scientic facts. Some of

the health benets of inulin are probably going to be on this list; the Netherlands and

France have already authorized bidogenic gut health claim. Premarket approval is

necessary for claims classied as Article 14 (risk of illness reduction or growth and

development of children). The process outlined in EU 1924/2006 is how to acquire

such permission. Premarket clearance is not necessary for “structure-function”

claims made in the USA, which explain how an ingredient affects a physiological

function or structure. When claiming this kind, care should be taken to avoid dis-

cussing a sickness and to ensure that the relevant data is at hand. An example of this

would be to assert the impact of inulin on calcium absorption.

7.5 Conclusion

Its journey from a biomarker for kidney function to a benecial component in skin-

care formulations highlights its scientic evolution and practical applications. The

discovery in the 1980s by Keri and Kristof of its topical benets, including moistur-

ization and skin-soothing properties, spurred its integration into skincare and hair

care products, where it is now used for enhancing hydration, reducing irritation, and

supporting a balanced skin microbiome. Inulin is derived mainly from chicory root,

and inulin acts as a natural humectant, attracting and retaining moisture to keep the

skin supple and hydrated. Inulin contributes to the efcacy of skincare treatments in

addition to increasing product efcacy. Its use goes beyond lotions and moisturizers

to include a broad spectrum of items including sunscreens, antiaging therapies, hair

care, and dental care, all of which are enhanced by its special qualities. Its attrac-

tiveness is further enhanced by regulatory approval in many countries as a dietary

ber, guaranteeing that products containing inulin adhere to strict safety and effec-

tiveness criteria. Inulin continues to be essential in satisfying customer needs for

natural and efcacious skincare products as a result of its long-lasting and scienti-

cally proven advantages. Its ongoing study in the skincare industry provides addi-

tional information about its potential applications while also conrming its place as

a crucial element of modern innovation in cosmetic and personal care products.

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