Добавил:
ivanov666
Опубликованный материал нарушает ваши авторские права? Сообщите нам.
Вуз:
Предмет:
Файл:The Academy of Art and Design. Учебное пособие
.pdf
Today China and India together produce more than half of the world’s silk.
China is the world’s largest producer of silk, followed by India. In India silk is
mainly produced in Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, West Bengal,
Assam, Jammu and Kashmir, Bihar and Uttar Pradesh. Other countries like Brazil,
Thailand, Vietnam and Japan also have significantly important silk production
industries. Many people who object to the use of animal fibers proactively object
to the use of silk products and advocate silk alternatives.
But do you know that the Silkworms only live for five days. The average
lifespan of a silkworm is 6-8 weeks, but the adult moth only lives for about 5 days.
But in that time, they lay 500 eggs and then pass away. A single silkworm cocoon
can yield a silk thread that is approximately 1,000 to 3,000 feet (300 to 900 meters)
long. For reference, an airport runway can be this long.
And, do you know that about 34 million people around the world depend on
silk for their livelihood [19].
Discussion questions
1. When and where was silk invented?
2. Who discovered silk fabric according to Chinese legend?
3. What is Sericulture?
4. What was silk used for?
5. Why did silk fabric become famous for and was valued all over the world?
6. What do you know about Bombyx mori? Watch video on the internet.
7. For 2000 years no other country knew how silk was made. How did the world
learn the technology of silk production if everything was closely guarded?
8. How is Byzantine Emperor Justinian I supposed to have tried to know the secret
about silk?
9. How did the trade routes followed by the silk become known?
10. What country had become a major center for silk production in the West by the
13th century?
11. Why did the Byzantine Empire serve as a crucial link in the Silk Road trade
network that connected the East (China and India) with the West (Europe)?
81
12. How did the invention of the spinning wheel influence the silk trade?
13. What do you know about glossy silk satin?
14. What happened to silk during the Industrial Revolution?
15. What do you know about silkworms?
Vocabulary section
II. Transcribe and translate words and expressions below into Russian.
Silkworm cocoon; advanced techniques for reeling, spinning, and weaving
silk fibers into silk fabrics; bone needle, to make patterns on the fabric, closelyheld technological secret, cultivation of the worms, to make silk, loom, monopoly,
mulberry tree, pay tax with (silk), ribbon, Sericulture, valuable fabric, to unwind,
shroud in secrecy, trade route, silk fabric, smuggle out, social class, strong thread,
the Silk Road, to conquer the world, trade network, to turn fiber into fabric, woven
fragments of silk cloth.
III. Give English equivalents of the following words and expressions.
Прясть нити, производство хлопка, нейлон, лён, полиэстер, ацетат,
ткацкий станок, узоры и принты, натуральная ткань, полусинтетическая
ткань, синтетическая ткань, прялка, ткать шелк, увеличение производства
ткани, тутовый шелкопряд, выращивание шелкопряда, свадебное платье,
волокна животного происхождения, средняя продолжительность жизни,
взрослая бабочка, кокон, отложить яйца, шелковая нить, Великий Шелковый
путь, взлетно-посадочная полоса, отрасль промышленности, Византийская
империя, император, императрица, быть очень востребованным, высокий
спрос, шейный платок, чулки, члены европейских королевских семей, подол
платья, нововведение.
IV. Word formation exercise.
a) Use the words in capitals to form a new word that fits into each blank.
Kesi is silk tapestry with pictorial designs. It means cut silk and derives from
the visual illusion of __CUT__ thread, even some kind of effect of engraved relief,
that is created by distinct, unblended areas of colour.
82
It is one of the very few weaving techniques that cannot be mechanised, and
was added to the UNESCO list of Intangible __CULTURE__ Heritage in 2009.
For kesi, raw silk is used for vertical threads and colourful boiled-off silk for
__HORIZON__ threads. The vertical threads are continuous while horizontal ones
are not. The __COLOUR__ threads are woven to create various patterns. Held
against the light, the patterns seem carved or engraved.
For the college’s graduation design exhibition in 2013 Hao surprised his
classmates and professors by making a tea-table mat that integrated
the kesi technique with __DECORATE__ of willow branches, while his
classmates all resorted to conventional fabrics.
As he sees it, the craft has evolved into a fusion of painting, calligraphy and
hand-weaving or __EMBROIDER__, so he will explore it from those
perspectives as well. The craft was used for robes, silk panels and scroll-painting
covers, as well as for converting exact, whole traditional Chinese paintings into
tapestries. Kesi products made their way to Europe during the Yuan Dynasty
(1271-1368), where they were incorporated into cathedral vestments.
In 2015 Hao opened his own art studio. He explored __POSSIBLE__ of
applying the kesi technique to __VARY__ other contemporary items, creating
bags, belts and home furnishings. In 2016 he teamed up with Sheme, a woman’s
shoe brand in Chengdu, Sichuan province, and developed refined qipao, or
cheongsam, dresses and delicate shoes with kesi elements, which became the
centre of attention at Shanghai Design Week in 2016.
Hao and the artisans in his workshop can finish 10 major kesi works a year,
and they have been experimenting with applying the craft to other products, such
as facial masks, and in restoring ancient __PAINT__ [7].
b) Read the text again. Guess if 1-5 below are true (T) or false (F).
1. Kesi is silk tapestry with pictorial designs. T / F
2. For kesi, raw silk is used for vertical threads and colourful boiled-off silk
for horizontal threads. T / F
83
3. Kesi is one of the very few Chinese weaving techniques that can be
mechanised. T / F
4. Kesi products made their way to Europe during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-
1368), where they were incorporated into royal clothing. T / F
5. The craft was used for robes, silk panels and scroll-painting covers, as
well as for converting exact, whole traditional Chinese paintings into tapestries. T /
F
V*. Translate the following sentences into English using the active
vocabulary of the Unit.
1. Более трех тысяч лет Китай хранил секрет изготовления
натурального шелка.
2. Вывозить коконы шелкопряда из страны было запрещено под
страхом смертной казни. И только в 550 году нашей эры шелк попал в
Византию – два бродячих монаха в своих посохах спрятали личинки тутового
шелкопряда.
3. Большой спрос на шёлк из Европы дал начало великому Шёлковому
пути.
4. Появившийся в Римской империи шелк был настолько дорог, что
ценился на вес золота и часто использовался как валюта в торговле, и носили
его только очень богатые люди.
5. Невесомый тончайший шелк ценится за свои уникальные свойства и
издавна окружен ореолом таинственности.
6. Во все времена человек восхищался изделиями из шелка. И по сей
день эта «легкая как облако» и «прозрачная как лед» ткань считается
атрибутом хорошего вкуса и роскоши.
7. Шёлк – роскошная мягкая ткань из нитей, добываемых из кокона
тутового шелкопряда.
8. Длина шёлковой нити из одного кокона достигает 800-1000 м. Также
шелковая нить имеет очень гладкую поверхность, поэтому не раздражает
даже самую чувствительную кожу.
84
9. В настоящее время крупнейшим производителем шёлка является
Agreement
Disagreement
I agree with you 100 percent.
I couldn't agree with you more.
That’s so true.
(strong) I totally disagree.
I beg to differ.
(strong) I’d say the exact opposite.
Китай (около 50 % всего мирового производства). Индия производит около
15 % мирового шёлка, за ней следуют Узбекистан (около 3 %) и Бразилия
(около 2,5 %). Значимыми производителями также являются Иран, Таиланд и
Вьетнам.
10. Шелк Малбери производят из нитей тутового шелкопряда,
выращиваемого в искусственных условиях при определенной температуре и
влажности, и кормят только листьями тутового дерева. Весь процесс
получения шелка происходит вручную.
VI. In pairs, discuss the statements below. Say what you think and ask
your partner if he/she agrees or disagrees with you. Use the following phrases
to help you:
1. Silk is said to be the strongest natural textile in the world. It’s worth
paying attention to this property when creating clothes?
2. There are too many amazing things you have learned about this ancient
material.
3. In 2022, sericulture and the traditional production of silk for weaving
were rightfully included in the list of the intangible cultural heritage of mankind.
Quiz on Silk*
1. What is the term used for the farming of silkworms?
a) Vermiculture
b) Sericulture
c) Apiculture
d) Mariculture
2. Which of the following items are domesticated silkworms fed exclusively?
85
a) Mulberry leaves
b) Oak leaves
c) Maple leaves
d) Evergreen needles
3. In which Chinese city did the Silk Road connected China to the West and
Middle East begin?
a) Nanjing
b) Xi’an
c) Pingyao
d) Chengdu
4. What is silk made from?
a) Very fine cotton
b) The fur of goats
c) Cocoons
d) Yak hair
5. Who first invented the process for making silk?
a) The wife of the Yellow Emperor
b) The silk dragon
c) Marco Polo
d) Kublai Khan
6. What was used to loosen the fibers so they could be made into long threads?
a) Very small needles
b) Hot water
c) Soy sauce
d) They were shaken violently
7. Who was allowed to wear silk for most of the history of Ancient China?
a) Peasants
b) Merchants
c) Farmers
d) None of the above
86
8. What was silk used to make?
a) Clothing
b) Bowstrings
c) Fishing line
d) All of the above
9. Where did the monks who stole the first silkworm eggs hide the eggs?
a) Under the saddles of their horses
b) In their walking sticks
c) Under their hoods
d) They did not need to hide the eggs
10. What was the Silk Road?
a) A street in each town where only people wearing silk were allowed to walk
b) A very smoothly paved road within the Forbidden City
c) A road connecting the palaces of the emperor
d) A trade route between China to Europe
Grammar section
I. Read the text and find sentences with the following tenses: Future
Simple; Present Simple; Past Simple.
I’ve only been studying English for 6 months. I mean for 6 months I’ve been
studying it at our school, but I had been studying English at my previous school for
2 years before that. We read different stories there, learnt irregular verbs by heart,
and sometimes we listened to English songs. But everything is different at this
school.
There is a special way of teaching here. We usually try to translate from
Russian into English during the lessons, as our teacher thinks that the most difficult
thing is to learn how to put your own thoughts into words in English correctly. To
my mind, this is true, although, to be honest, it’s rather difficult. But let's hope for
the best. Sometimes I get tired during the lesson and it seems to me that I make too
many mistakes while translating. I hope I won’t have problems with translation
next year.
87
II. Explain the difference between Future Simple; Present Simple; Past
Simple (See Appendix with the rules and explanations).
III. Put the verb into the correct form.
Silk has long remained a treasure in history. Its invention (to make) a
profound difference as the demand for silk created the ‘Silk Road’ which
transformed trade across Europe and Asia and its impact (to be) significant around
the world.
The silk road (to be) established by the Han Dynasty in China in 130 BC to
trade with the Middle East and Europe. Known as the Silk Route, it is named for a
booming silk industry that operates along its longitude. It (to be) this trading that
gave people living far from the silk industry the ability to wear silk. It was a route
that remained operational for more than 15 centuries until the Ottoman Empire
shut the silk road down in 1453 A.D. (by which time many cultures (to have) their
silk industry, including Medieval Europe that had begun producing silk).
Although it is ambiguous how silk first (to reach) Japan around the 4th
century AD via the Korean peninsula, its cultivation spread in Japan. Some sources
claim that it was brought there by four Chinese girls, whilst others believe that a
Chinese man (to come) to the country carrying with him a cluster of silkworm
cocoons.
The fabric (to become) exceedingly popular in Japan and was used for a
variety of purposes from kimonos to book bindings for calligraphy, from samurai
inflatable cloaks to wall hangings, etc. Silk (to be) widely recognised as a highquality fabric and the Japanese came up with their types of silk namely - Nishijin
Ori, Chirimen and Tsumugi. Today the quality of silk is measured by the term
‘momme’ which is a Japanese word for weight.
Unit 8. HOW THE BUTTON CHANGED FASHION
I. Read the text and answer the questions below.
88
You may be a lover of sewing, but have you ever wondered how or when
your sewing tools were invented? Or do you think about how you can so easily run
to the store and fetch that much needed spool of thread, or that card of buttons? For
centuries, buttons were the height of luxury, and now we can so easily open a
drawer and select the perfect button for our garments without a second thought. So,
when were buttons invented, and what made them so lavish that some buttons
today are worth thousands of dollars?
The history of buttons is as vast and varied as humans are, and their purpose
spans throughout the ages. Whether they were being used as a status symbol by the
Prince of France, or to simply fasten a coat by the poorest of factory workers, it’s
important to see just how much buttons have changed, and how much they
impacted history.
The first evidence of a button being used dates back to 2800-2600 BCE
during the Indus Valley Civilization (now modern day Pakistan). Buttons in those
days were held in place by brooches or similar jewelry, and they were used as
ornamentation and as seals, rather than fasteners. This held true through other
historical finds such as the discoveries at the Tomb of Eagles site in Scotland
(2200-1800 BC), the Bronze Age sites in China (2000-1500 BC), and throughout
Ancient Rome and Egyptian archaeological locations.
Picture 4 – Buttons from the 2nd century, BCE
Each civilization had their own beautiful spin on the infamous button, and
they used a variety of materials to make them as attractive as possible. From shells,
to wood, to precious metals, these buttons were designed to show the status and
wealth of the wearer.
89
Picture 5 – Buttons from 2600-1900, BCE
This all changed in the 13th century when the button hole was invented, and
the use of buttons became the most practical form of adornment. Buttons became
so prominent in fact, that there was actually a sumptuary law put in place to limit
their use! This law was designed to limit excessive, personal expenditures in an
attempt to prevent extravagance and luxury. That hardly stopped the elite however,
and their popularity rose while also slowly becoming the preferred method of dress
amongst the poor.
While the wealthy luxuriated in their choice of material, the lower-class
were far more likely to use common, everyday materials like animal bone, or wood
to create their fasteners. These materials were also typically used as the base for
fabric-covered buttons, or string buttons. Few historical finds remain of these
button types because of the soft materials used to create them, but the ones that are
found show the hard work and dedication that went into their design.
By the 14th century, buttons were typically being used as ornamental
fasteners that went from elbow to wrist on coats, and dress wear, and similar to
modern attire, from neckline to waist. Expensive buttons were made from gold,
silver, ivory, copper and copper alloys. The metal buttons were frequently
embellished with ivory, tortoiseshell, and jewels. Some were so extravagant that a
13-piece set made from metal with ruby-inlays sold in 2011 for $20,000 in a
Christie’s auction.
In the 18th century, embroidered buttons became all the rage in order for the
designs to match expensive, fabric garments. The wealthy elite would also have
90
Соседние файлы в предмете [НЕСОРТИРОВАННОЕ]