Добавил:
ivanov666
Опубликованный материал нарушает ваши авторские права? Сообщите нам.
Вуз:
Предмет:
Файл:The Academy of Art and Design. Учебное пособие
.pdf
button holes, do a contrast test. (To lie) buttons of the same color on your garment,
then remove and replace contrast color buttons – you (to see) the impact instantly.
The same (to go) for using contrast thread when creating your buttonholes – one
more opportunity to incorporate a design detail that may enhance your inspiration’s
message.
Unit 9. FASHION MAGAZINES
I. Read the text and answer the questions below.
By Madeleine Ginsberg
Fashion magazines are an essential component of the fashion industry. They are
the medium that conveys and promotes the design’s vision to the eventual
purchaser. Balancing the priorities has led to the diversity of the modern periodical
market.
Fashion, except in its lifestyle sense or as a byword for vanity, played no part in
early periodical literature. In 1678, however, Donneau de Visé first included an
illustrated description of French fashions with suppliers’ names in his ladies
magazine, Le Mercure galant, which is considered the direct ancestor of modern
fashion reports. Thereafter, fashion news rarely reappeared in periodical literature
until the mid-eighteenth century when it was included in the popular ladies
handbooks and diaries. Apparently in response to readers’ requests, such coverage
to the popular Lady’s Magazine (1770–1832) was added to the genteel poems,
music, and fiction that other journals were already offering to their middle-class
readers.
By the end of the eighteenth century, Lady’s Magazine had been joined by
many periodicals catering to an affluent aspirational society. Interest in fashion
was widespread and it was included in quality general readership journals such as
the Frankfurt Journal der Luxus und der Moden (1786–1827) and
Ackermann’s Repository of the Arts, Literature, Commerce, Fashion and
Politics (1809–1828) as well as those specifically for ladies. Despite the
101
continental wars, French style was paramount and found their way into most
English journals. Very popular with dressmakers was Townsend's
Quarterly (later Monthly) Selection of Parisian Costumes (1825–1888), beautifully
produced unattributed illustrations with minimal comment. The journals were
generally elite productions, well illustrated and highly priced, though cheaper if
uncoloured. John Bell's La belle assembléé (1806–1821) was edited by Mary Anne
Bell between 1810 and 1820, also proprietor of a fashion establishment.
Dressmaker's credits are rare, perhaps because fashion establishments were
dependent on personal recommendation and exclusivity.
By the middle of the nineteenth century, the magazine, like other popular
literature, profited from improvements in printing methods, lower paper costs, and
lower taxation. Literacy levels had risen and readership increased. Many new titles
were produced and fashion for all types and ages were generally included in those
for the women's market. Circulation figures were high; Godey’s Lady's
Book (1830–1897) issued 150,000 copies in 1861 and Samuel Beeton’s The
Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine (1852–1897) issued 60,000. Advertisement
increased but the revenue rarely inhibited editorial independence. The key to
circulation was innovation, and Godey and Beeton both added a shopping service
and additional paper patterns to those already available within the magazine. Upto-date fashion news was an essential and fashion plates as well as embroidery
designs came direct from Paris sources, though in America they were often
modified for home consumption.
The wide-ranging informative articles, typical of the "new journalism" were
often written by women beginning to be well established in the newspaper
profession. By the end of the century, there had been women editors at Godey, the
Demorest publications, 1860–1899, The Queen (c. 1860s) and Myra’s Journal of
Dress and Fashion (1875–1912).
Entertaining and practical guides for the average family, this type of midmarket magazine had a long life, only recently losing its popularity. Its main
competitors were shop catalogs and store magazines.
102
High-fashion Paris news was most easily accessible in the large format society
journals, the weekly illustrated newspapers, and La mode illustrée (1860–1914), of
which there was an English edition. Semi-amateur fashion cum gossip columnists
were a feature of Gilded Age society, but the couture concerned with their
expanding international market were increasingly professional about their
publicity, and well-kept house guard books were probably as useful for press
promotion as they were to designers and clients.
Through its Chambre Syndicale, the couture was organizing its own fashion
journal, Les modes (1901–1937). Its innovative and informative photographic
illustrations made it an anthology of high status Paris design by the end of the
century. In 1911 Lucien Vogel offered the couture an even more modern shop
window in the elitist Gazette du bon ton (1911–1923), the precursor of the
small pochoir (stencil) illustrated fashionable journals characteristic of the avantgarde press of the early twentieth century.
It is a tribute to their vision that a men's style publication was
included. Monsieur (1920–1922) was a complete break with the stereotyped format
and trade jargon of the tailoring journals. It was not followed until Esquire (1933),
described as the male counterpart to Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, updated the male
fashion image, stressing a harmony between clothes and lifestyle.
High fashion was reinterpreted for the American market when Vogue was taken
over by Condé Nast Publications in 1909. His publishing experience had shown
that a rich and aspirational American society wanted practical fashion guidance
and a direct line to Paris. Vogue coverage is global in the early 2000s, and foreign
editions make their own assessments of the fashionable and the salable. Until his
death in 1942, Condé Nast maintained meticulous control of the quality and service
he believed were owed to his readers. Vogue archives provide insight into the
management of quality fashion publication in a twentieth-century world. The
contributors, editors, designers, photographers, and artists who have enriched
the Vogue pages over the years add another essential layer of information.
103
As fashion pace increased, the fashion publication scene was stimulated by
developments at Women’s Wear Daily (WWD), after the Fairchild family
purchased it in 1909 as a conventional trade paper for the garment trade. Its
offshoot, W (1972) was developed by John Fairchild, the son of the founder, to
have “the speed of a newspaper … with the smart look of a fashion magazine” and
significantly, its survival depended on advertisement. News “scoops” were
competed for ruthlessly. Vogue secured the designs for Princess Elizabeth's
wedding dress in 1947, WWD obtained Princess Margaret's in 1960, plus the
annual Best-Dressed List. Assessment of style change was more problematic and it
was the role of the fashion editor to balance designer’s contribution and public
acceptance. It was a tribute to both when magazines and public supported Dior's
New Look in 1947, despite trade and government opposition.
Increasingly dependent on advertising, the conventional magazine is challenged
if fashion deviates from established trends. The “lead in” time for a quality, fullcolour journal is generally two months – too long for the speed of street fashion
and its high-spending, young, and trendy clientele. This readership was not
targeted until 1976 when Terry Jones, originally from Vogue, developed the U.K.
magazine i-D, with its apparently spontaneous fanzine look. Its original message,
“It isn’t what you wear but how you wear it,” had little appeal for the clothing
trade but it has found its niche market in the early 2000s and is the prototype
“young fashion” magazine.
Despite the number of fashion magazines currently available, it is probable that
most people appreciate fashion through the daily press, the popular lifestyle and
celebrity magazines, television, and the Web. With advertising pressures and the
sheer volume of clothing choices in an affluent society, it is not unexpected that
these popular magazines react by judging celebrities not by their designer clothes,
but by the way that they wear them [12].
Discussion questions
1. Why are fashion magazines an essential component of the fashion
industry?
104
2. What role did fashion play in early periodical literature?
3. What is considered the direct ancestor of modern fashion reports?
4. What is Lady’s Magazine famous for?
5. What interest in fashion was by the end of the eighteenth century?
6. How can you describe most English journals in the 19th century?
7. What did the key to circulation of the magazines become?
8. Had there been women editors by the end of the century?
9. Where was high-fashion Paris news most easily accessible in the 19th
century?
10. Why were the couture increasingly professional about their publicity?
11. Why did the fashion journal become an anthology of high status Paris
design by the end of the century?
12. When can we talk about the occurrence of a men’s style publication?
13. Why did Vogue archives provide insight into the management of quality
fashion publication in a twentieth-century world?
14. Was the fashion publication scene stimulated by developments at
Women’s Wear Daily?
15. Why do most people appreciate fashion through the daily press, the
popular lifestyle and celebrity magazines, television, and the Web?
Vocabulary section
II. Transcribe and translate words and expressions below into Russian.
Fashion magazine, eventual purchaser, diversity of the modern market,
lifestyle, fashion industry, supplier, direct ancestor, handbooks and diaries, middleclass, affluent aspirational society, paramount, dressmaker, elite production,
proprietor, personal recommendation, exclusivity, advertisement, shopping service,
up-to-date fashion news, embroidery, competitors, client, clientele.
III. Give English equivalents of the following words and expressions.
Важный компонент, индустрия моды, передавать видение чего-либо,
конечный покупатель, приоритет, разнообразие современного рынка,
поставщик, интерес к моде, портниха, ежеквартальная (ежемесячная)
105
подборка, парижский костюм, прекрасные иллюстрации, элитное издание,
снижение налогов, реклама, доходы, свежие новости моды, вышивка
среднестатистическая семья, средний ценовой сегмент, потерять
популярность, конкурент, широкоформатный светский журналах,
обозреватель модных новостей, светские сплетни, кутюрье, клиент, высокий
статус, витрина, предшественник, мужской стиль, имидж мужской моды,
гармония между одеждой и стилем жизни, качество и сервис, рост темпов
моды, дизайн свадебного платья, общественное признание, ниша на рынке.
IV. Word formation exercise.
a) Use the words in capitals to form a new word that fits into each blank.
The first illustrated fashion magazine grew out of a weekly society paper that
began in 1892. Vogue magazine’s inauspicious start as a failing journal did not
preview the success that it would become. In 1909, a young __PUBLISH__,
Condé Nast, bought the paper and transformed it into a leading magazine that
signaled a new approach to women's magazines. In 1910, the once small
publication changed to a bi-monthly format, eventually __BLOSSOM__ into an
international phenomenon with nine editions in nine countries: America, Australia,
Brazil, Britain, France, Germany, Italy, Mexico, and Spain.
Following the vision of Condé Nast, Vogue has continued to present
__CULTURE__ information, portraits of artists, __MUSIC__, writers, and other
influential people as well as the current fashion trends. Since its inception, the
magazine has striven to portray the elite and serve as an example of proper
etiquette, beauty, and composure. Vogue not only contributes to the acceptance of
trends in the fashion and beauty industry, but __ADDITION___ has become a
record of the changes in cultural thinking, actions, and dress. Glancing
through Vogue from years past documents the changing roles of women, as well as
the influences of politics and cultural ideas throughout the twentieth century.
The power that Vogue has had over many generations of women has
spawned a plethora of other women’s magazines – such as Cosmopolitan,
Glamour, and Mademoiselle – which have sought to claim part of the __GROW__
106
market of interest. Despite the abundance of women's magazines, no other
publication has been able to achieve the lasting influence and success of Vogue.
By incorporating photography in 1913, and under the __DIRECT__ of Edna
Woolman Chase (Editor-in-Chief from 1914 to 1951) and Art Director Dr.
Mehemed Gehmy Agha, Vogue reinvented its image several times. With the
occurrence of the Depression and later, World War II, readership soared.
__READ__ looked to the magazine to escape from the reality of the hardships in
their lives. In the midst of the Depression fashions reflected the glamour of
Hollywood; then came movies with their enormous influence on the ideas of
fashion and beauty. __PHOTOGRAPH__ Edward Steichen, Cecil Beaton, and
Baron de Meyer emphasized this glamour by presenting their models in elaborate
settings. Additionally, Vogue began __FOCUS__ on more affordable, ready-towear clothing collections. During the war, images of fashions within the magazine
emulated the practicality of the era. Different, more durable and affordable fabrics,
and simple designs became prominent. The magazine demonstrated that even in
difficult circumstances, women still strove for the consistency of caring for
everyday concerns regarding fashion and beauty. Balancing the lighter features,
ex-Vogue model and photographer Lee Miller's images of the liberation of Europe
also provided a somber and intellectual view of the war. This element of the
magazine kept readers involved and informed of the realities of the war [12].
b) Read the text again. Guess if 1-5 below are true (T) or false (F).
1. Vogue magazine's inauspicious start as a failing journal did not preview
the success that it would become. T / F
2. In 1910, the once small publication changed to a bi-monthly format,
eventually blossoming into an international phenomenon with ten editions in ten
countries. T / F
3. Vogue presented cultural information, portraits of artists, musicians,
writers, and other influential people as well as the current fashion trends. T / F
4. With the occurrence of the Depression and later, World War II, readership
fell. T / F
107
5. Glancing through Vogue from years past documents the changing roles of
women, as well as the influences of politics and cultural ideas throughout the
twentieth century. T / F
V*. Translate the following sentences into English using the active
vocabulary of the Unit.
1. История модных журналов в Европе начинается ещё в XVII веке, но
в России они появляются лишь с момента разрешения деятельности частных
издателей, в конце XVIII века.
2. Женщин из аристократических семейств весьма порадовало
появление в 1827 году «Дамского журнала». Публикации новинок парижской
моды, размещение первых цветных иллюстраций – вот, что нужно было
светским львицам.
3. Ошибочно считать, что в России в советское время моды не было.
Существовали ателье и Дома мод, специализированная литература и
журналы.
4. Несмотря на разнообразие женских журналов, ни одно другое
издание не смогло добиться такого прочного влияния и успеха, как Vogue.
5. Vogue стал международным журналом с изданиями в девяти странах:
Америке, Австралии, Бразилии, Великобритании, Франции, Германии,
Италии, Мексике и Испании.
6. Особо любимыми в России за крупные листы цветных картинок с
выкройками и вышивками был журнал «Сандрильона» и «Дамский альбом
рукодельных работ».
7. На выставке представлена ретроспектива изданий, которые
выходили в царской России, СССР и РФ, и эти издания во все времена
помогали миллионам людей освоиться с новой модой, потому что она
существует не только для подиумов и фотосессий, а прежде всего для
человека.
108
8. Журналы мод постоянно представляют и продвигают новые идеи в
Agreement
Disagreement
You can say that again!
You have a point there.
I have no objections.
To be honest, I don’t agree with that.
I think there’s a better explanation.
As a matter of fact, I don’t think that’s
correct.
отношении одежды, аксессуаров и косметических товаров, развлекают и
обучают миллионы женщин.
9. Эти журналы могут смело считаться прародителями современных
журналов для женщин.
10. На рубеже XIX и XX веков, благодаря шагнувшим вперед
технологиям, было создано множество новых журналов мод, в которых
использовались фотографии и высококачественные репродукции [1].
VI. In pairs, discuss the statements below. Say what you think and ask
your partner if he/she agrees or disagrees with you. Use the following phrases
to help you:
1. Any fashion magazine brings you to the runway and behind the scenes of
the fashion world.
2. Fashion with its fashion magazines is a kind of art.
3. Fashion magazines are needed by both men and women.
Quiz on Fashion Magazines*
1. Which fashion magazine represents your style?
2. What’s your go-to outfit for a night out with friends?
3. How would you describe your everyday style?
4. What is your favorite fashion accessory?
5. Which colour do you wear most often?
6. How do you accessorize a simple outfit?
7. What’s your favorite fashion trend?
8. How do you feel about wearing high heels?
109
9. Which fashion icon inspires you the most?
10. How do you feel about experimenting with different prints and patterns?
11. What is your favorite type of shoe?
Grammar section
I. Read the text and find sentences with the following tenses: Present
Simple; Present Continuous; Present Perfect.
Everyone knows that cigarettes are very unhealthy. Illness and deaths from
smoking-related diseases are very costly. To make their citizens healthier, many
governments are trying to stop or reduce smoking. They have made many
different laws about the sale and use of cigarettes. Many of these are very strict and
impose harsh fines on people who fail to obey them.
In Singapore, for example, smoking is illegal in most public areas such as
pubs and playgrounds. Smokers who violate these rules can be fined up to 1000
Singapore dollars. Recently, anti-smoking advocates have pushed for a new law to
be passed. This legislation would prevent stores from selling tobacco products to
anyone born from the year 2000.
Australia also has some very strict anti-smoking and tobacco sales laws.
Companies must not advertise tobacco products in many places. Also, cigarettes
and cigar packages must be plain and in dark brown colours. They must not have
any markings other than the product’s name and brand. Companies must put on a
large warning label that covers much of the package. Smoking is banned in all
public places, such as restaurants and nightclubs.
The strictest anti-smoking measures in the world are found in Costa Rica.
The government and some companies have been encouraging smokers with posters
and TV commercials about the many benefits of quitting.
II. Explain the difference between Present Simple; Present Continuous;
Present Perfect (See Appendix with the rules and explanations).
III. Put the verb into the correct form.
We all got the scene of the popular film in mind, in which Nigel (to tell)
Andy about his childhood nights under a blanket reading a fashion magazine.
110
Соседние файлы в предмете [НЕСОРТИРОВАННОЕ]