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Файл:The Academy of Art and Design. Учебное пособие
.pdf
1. Швейцарский художник Иоханнес Иттен разработал знаменитый
Agreement
Disagreement
цветовой круг, чтобы визуализировать взаимоотношения цветов и помочь
художникам и дизайнерам создавать гармоничные цветовые композиции.
2. Цветовой круг разделен на двенадцать секторов, каждый из которых
представляет основной цвет или цветовой тон.
3. Дизайнер может подобрать в цветовом сочетании одежду так, что
она будет выглядеть значительно богаче, поэтому цвет является наиболее
очевидным фактором в дизайне одежды.
4. Цвета и их сочетания в одежде во многих случаях оказывают на
человека сильное влияние, они могут вызывать различные эмоции и
ассоциации.
5. Кто-то носит всё белое, как проявление свежего, чистого, летнего и
прохладного, а вот в Японии и Китае белый – цвет траура.
6. При создании собственной коллекции важно подбирать правильные
цвета для одежды и учитывать культурные нюансы.
7. В индустрии моды нельзя не считаться с сезонными цветовыми
тенденциями.
8. Чтобы достичь гармонии в одежде, модельер правильно подбирает
текстуру ткани, сочетания цветов и их игру при естественном дневном свете
и искусственном освещении, что значительно влияет на восприятие цвета.
9. Художники и дизайнеры точно знают визуальный эффект цвета и
могут посоветовать, от каких сочетаний следует держаться подальше.
10. Цветовая палитра для коллекций одежды – это не только чистый
цвет, цветовые сочетания, оттенки, это целая цветовая схема основных,
вторичных и третичных цветов.
VI. In pairs, discuss the statements below. Say what you think and ask
your partner if he/she agrees or disagrees with you. Use the following phrases
to help you:
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I totally agree!
I see exactly what you mean!
That’s a good point.
Absolutely not!
That’s not right!
I’m not sure about that.
1. It is extremely important for a fashion designer to be able to match colors.
Express your opinion and then answer the following questions: Are you good at
matching colors? Which colors go well together?
2. Some people think pink is a feminine color.
3. Every country has the best combination of national colors in its traditional
costume.
Colour quiz*
1. According to the Beatles’ song released in 1966, we all live in a yellow …
a) Universe
b) Ship
c) Submarine
d) Field
2. Some spices are used to give colour to dishes. Which colour is given to food
by Saffron?
a) Blue
b) Yellow
c) Pink
d) Green
3. What term is given to the fear of colours?
a) Farbophobia
b) Chromophobia
c) Buntophopia
d) Colorophobia
4. Name the colour of flag flown on a ship when they are experiencing an
outbreak of disease onboard.
a) Black
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b) Red
c) Purple
d) Yellow
5. Each year on March 17 you will find St Patrick’s Day celebrations all over
the world. What colour is normally worn on St Patrick’s Day?
a) Blue
b) Green
c) White
d) Orange
6. The flag of the United States of America is often referred to as The Stars and
Stripes, or Old Glory. Which 3 colours are used in this flag?
a) Red, White, Green
b) Red, Yellow, Blue
c) Blue, Red, White
d) White, Green, Orange
7. Approximately what proportion of people in the world have blue eyes?
a) 4% b) 8% c) 12% d) 16%
8. Which colour is found on 75% of world flags?
a) Red
b) White
c) Blue
d) Black
9. Which of these colours is not in the rainbow?
a) Red
b) Yellow
c) Pink
d) Violet
10. In which country is the Yellow River, the second largest river?
a) China
b) Uganda
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c) Australia
d) Norway
11. Red is often associated with anger. Which colour is associated with envy?
a) Black
b) Green
c) Orange
d) Yellow
12. What is the meaning of a yellow card in soccer?
a) Warning
b) Goal
c) Injury
d) End of match
13. What colour are the iconic British phone boxes?
a) Blue
b) Red
c) Yellow
d) Green
14. What is the capital of Greenland?
a) Reykjavik
b) Oslo
c) Nuuk
d) New Brunswick
Grammar section
I. Read the text and find sentences with the following tenses: Present
Perfect; Past Simple; Past Perfect.
I was too busy last week. That’s why I didn’t call you. You know, I was
offered a very interesting job abroad and I decided to go there. But I’m not very
good at English yet and I’m quite a lazy person, so it's difficult for me to make
myself study every day. But I have no choice. I don't like studying and I didn’t like
it as a child.
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And I will never like it. It’s tiring, although it’s not so hard. But my sister
has always liked studying. That's why she speaks English better than I do. She was
the best student at school. She was asked every day and she got only the best
marks. But I was asked very seldom, because teachers didn't like me. The situation
at the university was the same.
My sister as usual was the best and I was the worst, in spite of the fact that I
started reading a lot and even studying English a little. I didn’t have a good teacher
and nobody wanted to help me, because everybody knew that I was the laziest guy
in the world! But I decided to study, and to prove to everyone that I could learn to
speak English in 2 months. That’s why I’ve been working as hard as a Cinderella
all this week. And I’ll keep working nonstop and I won’t waste time anymore!
II. Explain the difference between Present Perfect; Past Simple; Past
Perfect (See Appendix with the rules and explanations).
III. Put the verb into the correct form.
Fashion designers can deploy and use colour in countless ways, such as
using colour as a source of inspiration (read: the starting point) for their
collections. They can also use colour to make a statement or connect [with
consumers], for example, in terms of diversity and/or inclusivity. In addition, they
can also naturally apply colour through embellishments and embroidery to
complement their designs.
Fashion designers (to choose) and (to determine) colour schemes that have a
desired artistic effect. They (to be) usually familiar with the theory of colour and
often work with colour charts and swatches. Fashion designers determine colour
schemes for each fashion collection, made up of various types of garments in
different designs, colours and prints.
Some colours in fashion (to become) big. Just as French artist Yves Klein (to
be) synonymous with a specific colour blue (International Klein Blue), ‘Valentino
red’, for example, (to become) a household name.
There are also iconic colour combinations. For example, do you know the
iconic Yves Saint Laurent Mondrian collection? The colourblock geometric
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Mondrian dress (1965) is the most famous garment inspired by Dutch artist Piet
Mondrian’s paintings and his love of straight, black lines and primary colours.
Sometimes the use of colour is even synonymous with a fashion designer’s
signature. Italian designer Giorgio Armani (to become) known as the ‘king of
greige’ for his abundant use of beige and grey shades in his designs, such as taupe,
sand and concrete. While contemporary designer Dries van Noten from Belgium
(to be) considered a master of colour. He is often praised for his unique, vibrant
use of colour and prints in his collections.
Unit 7. THE AMAZING HISTORY OF SILK FABRIC
I. Read the text and answer the questions below.
By Sarina Tariq
Something never changes – some inventions were and are still closely
guarded secrets among countries. Silk was invented in China long ago, around
5,000 years ago. It was like a closely-held technological secret of today’s times,
known only to the Chinese, and they kept its production process so shrouded in
secrecy that no one outside of China knew how to make silk for close to 2000
years.
Picture 2 – The History of Silk Fabric
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It is said that silk was first used around 2700 BCE. According to Chinese
legend, the credit for discovering silk fabric goes to Empress Lei Zu (she is said to
have lived around 2700 BCE during the Xia dynasty). She is credited with having
figured out how to take silk cocoons and turn them into silk fabric.
One day, she was sitting under a mulberry tree, drinking tea, when a
silkworm cocoon accidentally dropped into her tea. As she tried to take it out, the
cocoon started to unwind, revealing a long, strong thread. She was amazed by its
beauty and strength, so she began raising silkworms and turning this fiber into
fabric. This is said to be the beginning of Sericulture, the science of raising
silkworms to make silk.
Silk ribbons and woven fragments of silk cloth have been discovered in
Qianshanyang in Zhejiang province (China) dated to around 3000 BC. This seems
to be one of the earliest examples of woven Bombyx mori silk.
For 2000 years no other country knew how silk was made – the cultivation
of the worms, the process of creating the fabric from those fine fibers that emerged
out of the silkworms – everything was closely guarded.
Silk Monopoly of China
In China, Silk wasn’t just used for making clothes. People used it for lots of
stuff, like writing. Also, during the Tang Dynasty, the colour of your silk clothes
showed what social class you were in. They even paid tax with silk.
They used special tools, like bone needles and looms, to make patterns on
the fabric. They developed advanced techniques for reeling, spinning, and weaving
silk fibers into silk fabrics of different patterns and prints. This silk fabric became
famous for its beauty and was valued all over the world. But no one still knew
what it was made of. They never suspected humble Bombyx mori of creating the
most valuable fabric of the times.
The origin and flourishing of the silk-making industry in ancient China seem
fascinating, but equally interesting is how silk conquered the world. It succeeded in
connecting East and West in a fascinating exchange of culture and commerce. The
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way it inter-connected different countries and cultures together and made certain
countries super-rich makes a good inspirational story.
Spying to find how Silk was made
Chinese immigrants brought the knowledge of the silk fabric to Korea and
later countries in Asia like India found it out. The silkworms were smuggled out of
China. It is said that people tried all they could to find how silk was made in China.
In the 6th century CE, Byzantine Emperor Justinian I is supposed to have sent two
monks, disguised as silkworm merchants, on a mission to smuggle silkworm eggs
and mulberry tree seeds out of China.
Around 300 AD, Japan started making silk. People in other parts of Asia,
including India, Japan, and Korea, learned to make different types of silk. Ending
the monopoly of China, the whole world woke up to the beauty of silk and its
many variations. The trade routes followed by the silk became known as The Silk
Road. The Silk Road’s origins can be traced back to the Han Dynasty (206 BCE –
220 CE) of China or even earlier.
The Silk Road was a vast network of interconnected trade routes that
spanned across Asia, connecting the East to the West. Silk played a crucial role in
this trade network, earning its name as the “Silk Road” because of its significance.
The sheer and glossy appearance of silk fabrics made them the favorite of upperclass. It is said that silk was as costly as gold.
Silk conquers the world – how silk changed history
Silk found its way into countries in the Middle East, Europe and North
Africa like Greece, Italy, Turkey, Spain, Portugal, and France. By the thirteenth
century, Italy had become a major center for silk production in the West. Silk
production became a major industry around the world, providing employment for
many people.
The Byzantine Empire served as a crucial link in the Silk Road trade
network that connected the East (China and India) with the West (Europe). The
Byzantines recognized that silk was a highly prized commodity in Europe. They
imported raw silk fibers from China and India and then used them to produce their
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own silk textiles. These textiles were highly sought-after throughout Europe and
other parts of the Mediterranean world.
During the Crusades (Middle Ages from the 5th to the 15th centuries), silk
became a valuable and important commodity in Italian cities. Italian cities like
Venice, Genoa, and Florence became key trading hubs for silks and other
commodities imported from the East.
Later, the high demand for silk in Italy led to the development of silk
production and weaving industries in cities like Venice and Florence. They
invented cool things like the spinning wheel to make silk faster. The superior silks
of the region made the people there rich because they sold their silks to other parts
of Europe. Italy became famous as a center for fine silk craftsmanship during that
era.
In the 17th century, Italians started weaving very glossy silk satin. This
highly prized Silk satin was used to create a variety of fashionable garments during
that time, including gowns, coats, cravats (neckties), and stockings.
Picture 3 – The History of Silk Fabric. Glossy Silk Satin
During the 1600s, silk stockings became very popular in Europe, especially
among the upper class men. Members of European royalty, including King Louis
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XIV of France, were known to wear silk stockings. Women reduced the hemlines
of their gowns to show off their glossy silk stockings.
What happened to silk during the Industrial Revolution
When the Industrial Revolution happened, the way silk was made changed a
lot in Europe. Cotton became cheaper to make than silk, so silk became less
popular. But they also made new machines like the Jacquard loom, which helped to
make silk in different patterns and prints. One of the most important innovations
made during this period was the mechanized spinning of silk.
The spinning jenny, invented in 1764, allowed one person to spin multiple
threads at the same time. This greatly increased the output of silk thread, and it also
made it possible to produce finer silk threads. The power loom, invented in 1785,
allowed silk to be woven much faster than it could be by hand. This led to a
significant increase in the output of silk fabric. And made silk more affordable.
And even the not-so-rich could buy and use silk clothes.
And, Now?
Silkworms only live in temperatures between 18°C and 25°C. So, the
majority of silk production occurs in countries with climates that can support
silkworm cultivation, such as China, India, and Brazil. This also means that
silkworm rearing typically occurs during the spring and summer months when
temperatures are within the optimal range.
Nowadays, other fabrics like nylon and polyester are more common and
cheaper than silk. And there are many other fabrics which are as shiny and soft.
Maybe even softer. When compared to other natural fabrics like linen, silk is
costlier. When compared to synthetic fabrics like acetate, silk is costlier.
A Semi synthetic fabrics called artificial silk, re-named rayon was
discovered to replace silk. Rayon has comparable softness to silk.
So, Silk is not as popular as a dressmaking fabric as it once was. But still, it
is the first choice for special occasion wear, like a modern day silk dupioni
wedding gown.
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