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Файл:The Academy of Art and Design. Учебное пособие
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home furnishings, luxury clothing, and dining based on the aspirational aesthetic of
upper-crust life.
Born Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent on August 1, 1936, in Oran,
French Algeria, Yves Saint-Laurent is celebrated as one of the greatest fashion
designers of the 20th century.
As a teenager, Yves Saint Laurent moved to Paris and began working for
Christian Dior.
Considered the most influential European fashion designer of the modern
era, the French designer’s authentic and seductive style has gained immense
popularity among true fashion lovers.
Credited with spurring the rise of haute couture from its 1960s ashes and
rendering ready-to-wear reputable, Yves Saint Laurent’s unique style and
aesthetics made women feel confident, comfortable, and elegant.
The designer’s “Le Smoking” tuxedo suit had a masculine cut, redesigned
into a beautiful collection for women, immediately embraced as “women’s power
dressing.”
Yves Saint Laurent’s influential work pioneered androgynous fashion and
shaped the fashion industry as we know it.
Constantly in touch with the latest fashion trends, Yves Saint Laurent
championed diversity in fashion as the first fashion designer to put women of color
on the runway.
More recently, YSL appointed Blackpink’s Rosé as the brand’s global
ambassador, showcasing that brand’s all-inclusive roots and values still stand firm
[4].
Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy was born on February 21, 1927, in
the city of Beauvais in northern France, in an aristocratic family.
Hubert de Givenchy studied art at the École Nationale Supérieure des
Beaux-Arts and at the age of 17, began an apprenticeship with designer Jacques
Fath.
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After his Fath experience, Givenchy worked for several famous French
couture houses like Lucien Lelong, Robert Piguet, and Elsa Schiaparelli.
The French fashion designer eventually opened his own couture house in
1952 and received several awards for his chic and feminine clothes for women.
In 1953, Givenchy met Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, whom he
greatly admired, and together introduced a new silhouette called “the sack,” a loose
form without a waistline.
Featuring separates such as long skirts and tailored tops that included the
“Bettina blouse” named after model Bettina Graziani, elegant evening gowns,
feminine hats, and tailored suits, Givenchy’s name became synonymous with
Parisian chic.
One of Givenchy’s most ardent supporters was the famous British actress
and fashion icon Audrey Hepburn.
Hepburn loved Givenchy’s clean, classic, and unapologetically feminine
aesthetics and wore many of the fashion designer’s creations in “Breakfast at
Tiffany’s,” “Funny Face,” and “Charade.”
Born Maria Bianchi Prada on May 10, 1949, in Milan, Italy, Miuccia Prada
is an Italian fashion designer and the head designer of the Prada fashion house.
With a Ph.D. in political science from the University of Milan, Miuccia
Prada was a member of the Italian Communist Party and had no business
experience when she took over her family’s luggage business in 1978.
However, the Italian designer shifted towards the world of fashion in 1985
with a series of black nylon handbags and backpacks with understated labels, in
stark contrast to the logo-heavy styles that dominated.
Four years later, Miuccia Prada – with no formal fashion training – launched
a ready-to-wear women’s clothes called “uniforms for the slightly
disenfranchised.”
Eventually, the Italian fashion designer turned Prada into the billion-dollar
fashion giant that continues to mesmerize with stylish pared-down designs,
innovative fabrics, and unique patterns.
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Born Pietro Costante Cardin on July 2, 1922, in San Biagio di Callalta, Italy,
Pierre Cardin was an Italian-born naturalized-French fashion designer praised for
his 20th-century futuristic style.
At 17, Cardin went to Vichy, France, to train as a tailor in a men’s clothing
shop, and after World War II joined the Parisian fashion house of Paquin, where he
helped design costumes for Jean Cocteau’s film Beauty and the Beast.
Pierre Cardin also worked at the couture house of Christian Dior and, in
1950, opened his shop that quickly granted the fashion designer a reputation as
expert men’s suitmaker.
Cardin’s creations embodied the perfect touch of innovation, inventiveness,
and modishness, particularly the ‘bubble dress’ with a touch of sci-fi avant-garde
design.
The fashion designer’s stark, short tunics, vinyl, helmets, and avant-gardist
goggles developed the so-called Space Age look.
Cardin is also famous for licensing his name on various products (such as
sunglasses), which became familiar to renowned fashion designers.
Born on September 13, 1971, in London, England, Stella Nina McCartney is
the second of three children born to ex-Beatle Paul McCartney and his late wife,
Linda.
Despite her father’s celebrity profile, Stella McCartney had a remarkably
normal childhood; a country lifestyle at a farm in Sussex, raising farm animals and
growing vegetables.
“I was brought up with the understanding that we are all (people, animals,
plants) together, on this planet.”
With that idea of life, Stella McCartney burst into the fashion world in 1995
after inviting supermodels (and friends) Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss to model
her graduation collection from London’s Central St. Martins College of Art and
Design.
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Two years later, Stella became the head designer at Chloe’s fashion house,
and McCartney proved herself worthy of the appointment with created sensual,
subtly sexy creations for eco-conscious women.
Stella McCartney’s superb pieces attracted several celebrities, including
Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Kate Moss, triggering Gucci to support the
British designer starting her line.
A vegetarian by choice, Stella McCartney’s label was founded with
sustainability and cruelty-free at its core, using only faux fur and faux leather.
McCartney designed Meghan Markle’s stunning white halter-neck reception
dress for her wedding to Prince Harry, and received the VH1/Vogue Designer of
the Year Award in 2000 [22].
Discussion questions
1. What are the roles of a fashion top designer?
2. Who are your favorite designers?
3. What was Coco Chanel’s real name? Where was Coco Chanel born?
4. What happened to Coco at age 12 that was a defining moment in her life?
5. What did Coco Chanel sell out of her first shop in Paris’s Rue Cambon in
1910?
6. What fabric did Coco Chanel use in her early design career, which was highly
unusual for women’s fashion of the time?
7. What city was Christian Dior born in?
8. What was the name of the first fragrance created by Dior?
9. Is it true that in every clothing collection Dior included an item of clothing that
was named after his hometown?
10. Which famous fashion designer worked for Christian Dior when he was 19
years old?
11. What was one of Dior's main sources of inspiration for his women's dress
designs?
12. Where was Alexander McQueen born?
13. Where did Alexander McQueen graduate from?
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14. Who was named as the new creative director of fashion brand Alexander
McQueen after McQueen's death?
15. Whom did Alexander McQueen design a Union Jack-based coat for?
16. How did Saint Laurent first express his love for fashion?
17. How did Saint Laurent get the money to start his own clothing company?
18. What year did Saint Laurent open his own design house?
19. Is Stella McCartney sustainable? What has Stella McCartney done for the
environment?
Vocabulary section
II. Transcribe and translate words and expressions below into Russian.
Creativity, iconic designer, footwear, to push boundaries, exquisite,
orphanage, to sew, nickname, corset, petticoat, to regain, luxury, simplicity,
collarless, tweed jacket, to enroll, to prevail, fashion prowness, empowerment,
femininity, to demolish, inspiration, vintage, fragrance, upper-crust life, aspiration,
authentic, seductive style, tuxedo suit, to embrace, androgynous fashion,
ambassador, short tunic vinyl, leather, helmet.
III. Give English equivalents of the following words and expressions.
Креативный директор, основать собственную компанию, гардероб,
вводить в обиход, элемент роскоши, эпатаж, благотворительный проект,
натуральный мех, художник по костюмам, выпуск роскошной одежды,
современный бренд, заимствовать детали, современный мир моды, тяга к
шику, демонстрировать свою состоятельность, открыть свою мастерскую,
звериный окрас, блестки, стразы, мир высокой моды, соблюдать традиции,
провокационные наряды, собственная линия одежды, неповторимый почерк,
мужской гардероб, безупречный вкус, бижутерия, воплотить мечту,
талантливый фотограф, организовать выставку, манекенщица, преемник,
брючный костюм, восточные мотивы, кожаная куртка, оформитель витрин,
IV. Word formation exercise.
a) Use the words in capitals to form a new word that fits into each blank.
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A dress or clothing item is called vintage designer clothes only if it
___DATE___ back from 1920 to 1960. Anything after this date is called retro.
Napoleon is the one ___RESPONSIBILITY___ for buttons on the sleeves
of jacket. He got them attached because he didn't like soldiers ___WIPE___ their
nose with the sleeves.
The first Fashion Week was started in 1943 in New York to
___DISTRACTION___ the attention away from French fashion during World
War II and make way for American designers.
___CURRENT___, there are 40 Fashion Weeks and 100 official events
globally with the five most prominent ones held in the fashion capitals of the
world: Milan, New York, Berlin, London, and Paris.
In order to be Haute Couture designer, ___APPROVE___ by the Chamber
of Syndicale, the governing body of fashion in Paris is necessary.
Only 14 fashion houses have been ___SELECTION___ so far. Giorgio
Armani, the famous brand was ___REJECT___.
Mary Phelps designed the first modern bra out of handkerchief.
b) Read the text again. Guess if 1-5 below are true (T) or false (F).
1. A dress or clothing item is called vintage designer clothes only if it dates
back from 1920 to 1990. T/F
2. Catherine the Great is the one responsible for buttons on the sleeves of
jacket. T/F
3. The first Fashion Week was started in 1843 in New York to distract the
attention away from French fashion during World War II and make way for
American designers. T/F
4. Currently, there are 10 Fashion Weeks and 10 official events globally with
the five most prominent ones held in the fashion capitals of the world: Milan,
New York, Berlin, London, and Paris. T/F
5. Mary Phelps designed the first modern bra out of shawl. T/F
V*. Translate the following sentences into English using the active
vocabulary of the Unit.
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1. Дизайнеры – это те авторитеты в фэшн-индустрии, которые
диктуют нам модные стандарты и определяют тенденции. Каждый дизайнер
знаменит и узнаваем чем-то своим, и у каждого особый неповторимый
почерк. Некоторые из этих людей становятся настоящими легендами в мире
моды и стиля.
2. В одном из интервью на вопрос о том, какие события в жизни
пробудили в Коко Шанель интерес к искусству, она ответила: «Живя в
детском доме под присмотром монахинь, я научилась шить. Они научили
меня базовым навыкам швеи, тогда я была уже достаточно смышленой,
чтобы понять метод. Я действительно набила руку и сфокусировалась на
дизайне уже в раннем возрасте, поэтому у меня так быстро появились
известные клиенты».
3. Своё прозвище Коко получила, когда пела в кабаре. Она была
неординарной, смелой и яркой личностью, с большой силой воли и
безупречным вкусом.
4. Известный итальянский дизайнер первой половины XX века,
которую считают сюрреалистом от мира моды, главной соперницей Шанель,
создательницей стиля прет-а-порте - Эльза Скиапарелли.
5. Один из самых известных французских модельеров, которому мы
обязаны ультраженственными платьями в стиле нью-лук.
6. Джорджио Армани с детства любил искусство и театр, сам рисовал и
шил наряды для кукол. У него была мечта стать актером, но родители
настояли на профессии врача. После двух лет учебы Джорджио бросил
университет. Нашел он себя именно в мире моды. Собственную марку
Армани создал в 1974 году, а до этого он работал оформителем витрин в
крупном сетевом универмаге, а также создавал мужскую одежду для Нино
Черрути.
7. Знаменитый итальянский дизайнер просит называть себя
«художником моды» и славится своими экзотическими и эффектными
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коллекциями одежды и аксессуаров. Его модный дом придерживается
Agreement
Disagreement
I feel that way too.
I hold the same opinion!
I see exactly what you mean!
I think you’re totally right about
that.
I find that very difficult to accept.
It’s unjustifiable to say that.
I take a different view.
I don’t agree with what you’re
saying.
философии женственности, шика и яркого темперамента.
8. Большое влияние на раскрытие таланта Кавалли оказал его дедушка,
известный художник Джузеппе Росси, и его мама, которая была портнихой и
дизайнером.
9. Валентино Гаравани – основатель модного дома Valentino, известный
итальянский модельер с детства любил рисовать, в юности любил искусство
и интересовался модой.
10. В одной из коллекций 60-х присутствовали наряды красного цвета,
ставшего впоследствии визитной карточкой модного дома Валентино.
Модельер говорит: «Красный – самый лучший цвет. Он подходит любой
женщине, просто нужно помнить, что существует более 30 разных оттенков
этого цвета».
VI. In pairs, discuss the statements below. Say what you think and ask
your partner if he/she agrees or disagrees with you. Use the following phrases
to help you:
1. Fashion has turned us into a relentless shopaholic.
2. Passion for fashion is important to make a career in the fashion industry.
3. Sexual misconduct and casting-couch is the reality of the fashion industry.
Fashion quiz*
1.Who designs for the Fendi label?
a) Nicolas Ghesquiere
b) Marc Jacobs
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c) Karl Lagerfeld
2. Who designs for the Louis Vuitton label?
a) Marc Jacobs
b) Anna Sui
c) Tom Ford
3. Which French Fashion designer introduced the New Look?
a) Christian Dior
b) Jean Paul Gaultier
c) Jeanne Lanvin
4. Who is the fashion designer known as the 'silver fox'?
a) Ralph Lauren
b) Jean Paul Gaultier
c) Anna Sui
5. Which fashion designer is described here?
- French fashion designer (born in Italy in 1922) and known for his avant-
garde style and his Space Age and unisex designs. He prefers geometric shapes and
motifs. He introduced the 'bubble dress' in 1954;
- French business man (1821-1892) that began as a packer and box-maker.
His fashion house later expanded into trunks, leather goods to ready-to-wear,
shoes, watches, jewelry, accessories, sunglasses and books;
- British fashion designer born in 1941. She made clothes for Malcolm
McLaren’s boutique brought modern punk and new wave fashions into the
mainstream;
- American fashion designer born in 1939 and known for his 'Polo' label and
collection of rare automobiles;
- American fashion designer born in 1959 known for his sportswear. He
became a women’s ready-to-wear designer for French house Celine in 1997 and
launched his menswear line in 2002. He was a judge on Project Runway for 10
seasons;
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- Italian fashion designer born in 1934 and founded his company in 1974. He
is known for his menswear and clean, tailored lines;
- French tennis player and businessman (1904-1996) that introduced the
tennis or polo shirt in 1926 and added his crocodile emblem to it the next year;
- American fashion designer born in 1942 who started with coats and dresses
and later expanded with sportswear, blazers, lingerie, underwear (promoted on
posters with Marky Mark), watches, jewelry and perfumes;
- French fashion designer born in 1927, known for having designed clothes
for famous people like Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy;
- French fashion designer (1936-2008) that became the chief designer at the
House of Dior before starting his own company. He is credited for introducing the
tuxedo suit for women.
Grammar section
I. Read the text and find sentences with the following tenses: Future
Simple; Present Perfect; Past Simple.
My manager is never pleased with what I do. It’s unbearable! I just can't
listen to his constant critical remarks anymore! He didn’t use to find fault with me
at all. He just didn’t notice me. Then he began to pay attention to what I was doing.
But that was just the beginning. Last month he would ask me questions and give
advice. And now he’s always trying to catch me in the hall to ask another tricky
question: «Is your presentation ready? Where did you get the pictures? Who told
you about that source? Is it reliable? Why have you chosen those materials?
Wasn’t there anything better? How did you come up with that ridiculous idea?»
I had to wait until he went home to leave the building. Besides that, he calls
me so much that I often have to switch off my cell phone. Oh, I’m so sick and tired
of all that. To be honest, I’m just fed up with it.
This week I’ve prepared a presentation on shoes. I think, it’s the best
presentation I’ve ever made! I’m sitting here and looking through it. It’s gorgeous!
What will he criticize this time? Will I have to rewrite all the slides? Or will I have
to change all the subject? Who knows! His demands are unpredictable.
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