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Файл:The Academy of Art and Design. Учебное пособие
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II. Explain the difference between Future Simple; Present Perfect; Past
Simple (See Appendix with the rules and explanations).
III. Put the verb into the correct form.
Arabian women’s clothing mainly (to consist) of non-transparent, loose
garments covering all of their bodies except the hands and face including head
coverings and veils. The Pardah system, which (to be) prevalent in this area, (to
stipulate) that women (to cover) their body and face when outside as a symbol of
modesty and the Islamic faith. Arabian Women (to follow) the purdah system out
of their religious obligations as well as their personal choice. Many (to cherish)
their freedom to wear their choice of Arabian clothing. The Arabian fashion (to
celebrate) beauty, modesty, holiness, humility, and holiness at the same time.
Islamic clothing for women (to differ) slightly between countries in the
region but the basic concept (to be) the same. Covering the body of women from
males who are not relatives. A common question I (to hear) is ‘what is the
difference between a hijab and a niqab? They sound so similar. Most of the
Arabian names for the garments (to have) subtle but distinct differences.
Hijab (to be) a headscarf worn over the head by Muslim women. Usually,
they (to be worn) around the head covering the neck and the chest as well. The face
(not to be covered) with the hijab. A square scarf is usually used as a Hijab
wrapped around the head and neck.
Abaya (to be) a tunic with a full-body covering, usually made in black
fabric. This (to be worn) over other clothing and (to be made) of a lightweight
fabric. Nowadays, fashion-conscious Muslim women (to choose) embellished
abayas in various colors. Abaya (to be known) by different names in different
countries of the region. In Qatar Al darraa, a version of Abaya is worn; Balto is
the Yemenese version of abaya.
Unit 5. EVOLUTION OF RUSSIAN CLOTHING
I. Read the text and answer the questions below.
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In the vast expanse of Eurasia, Russia epitomizes cultural heritage,
where traditional attire reflects its enduring legacy. From the opulence of tsarist
courts to rustic village life, clothing traditions resonate with centuries of history
and a profound connection to its people.
With intricate detailing, rich fabrics, and distinct silhouettes, garments like
the Sarafan and Kosovorotka embody stories of resilience and endurance passed
down through generations.
In Russia, traditional dress symbolizes more than fashion; it represents a
deep-rooted sense of national identity and cultural pride. Each thread woven into
these garments intertwines past and present, inviting exploration of Russia’s
timeless cultural heritage.
Russian traditional clothing has a very long history. Many of the traditional
pieces in the past are not worn anymore today, though a few of them have
managed to stay and became iconic. You won’t be able to find the exact date when
Russian traditional clothing was born but it is assumed to be around the 10th to
12th century.
Exploring the history of Russian traditional attire reveals a dynamic
narrative of cultural evolution. From early tribal influences to the opulence of
imperial courts, clothing has reflected changing societal norms and cultural
encounters.
Each garment, from the sarafan to the Kosovorotka, carries layers of
tradition and identity, showcasing the collective experiences of generations.
Despite external influences, traditional attire remains deeply rooted in Russian
culture, evolving with modern sensibilities while preserving its rich heritage.
Keep on reading to learn more about traditional clothing elements and find
out how Russian clothing has changed over the time [23].
Elements of Russian traditional clothing
Rubakha
This oversized shirt was the basic element of the traditional Russian
wardrobe. The loose shirt was worn by anyone, men and women as well as the rich
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and poor. The materials differed from basic cheap line and cotton to expensive silk.
This piece of clothing was very comfortable and it was not changed at all until the
20th century.
The Ushanka, a hallmark of Russian winter attire, is a fur hat with ear flaps,
indispensable for colder climates. Crafted with care, it provides warmth and
protection from harsh weather, often using high-quality furs like fox, mink, or
rabbit.
For men, the Ushanka features a sturdy exterior and plush fur lining,
offering both functionality and style in the winter cold. Its ear flaps can be worn
down for extra warmth or fastened up for a casual look.
Similarly, women’s Ushankas come in various designs, from classic styles
with fur trims to more embellished versions with embroidery or jewels.
Sarafan
The Sarafan was first mentioned during the 14th century. First it was also
used as a dress for males and only in the 17th century the term was exclusively used
for a piece of women’s clothing. This multi coloured long dress with open
shoulders was worn over the rubakha. It was used for every day live as well as
special occasions. Sarafans were made out of different materials and included a lot
of decorations. The higher social classes wore sarafans made out of silk and velvet
while others were made out of domestic linen.
Valenki
Valenki, felt boots traditionally worn in Russia during the winter months, are
an essential part of cold weather attire. Crafted from layers of wool felt and
meticulously shaped to fit the foot, Valenki provides warmth and insulation against
freezing temperatures.
For men, Valenki typically features a simple yet sturdy design, with thick
soles and high shafts to keep feet warm and dry in snowy conditions. They are
often paired with thick wool socks for added comfort and insulation.
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Similarly, women’s Valenki come in various styles, from plain and practical
to more decorative versions. Some may be adorned with embroidery or fur trim,
adding a touch of personal flair.
Kokoshnik
It was common for women to wear decorations for the head and hair.
Depending on the civil status young women were allowed to show off their hair in
a braid decorated with flowers or other things, while married women had to fully
cover their hair with the so called Kokoshnik.
Married women used to put their hair into two braids and tie them around
their head. Because Kokoshniks were often made out of expensive materials they
were only worn a few times a year. In everyday life women therefore wore hats
with a shawl tied around – the so called povoyniki.
Picture 1 – Kokoshnik
Kosovorotka
The Kosovorotka, a fundamental element of Russian men’s attire, is a
traditional shirt distinguished by its collarless neck and buttoned chest. Crafted
from durable fabrics such as linen or cotton, it exudes simplicity and practicality,
providing comfort and ease of movement for everyday wear.
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For men, the Kosovorotka typically features a loose fit and long sleeves,
further enhancing its functionality. Its collarless design and buttoned chest allow
for effortless dressing and ventilation in warmer weather.
Shuba
The Shuba (furcoat) has survived over the centuries and has managed to stay
popular in the country. The coat was worn by women and men equally, mainly
because of the harsh weather conditions. The fur used to be on the inner side while
the outside was heavily decorated. Today the style of the fur coat may have
changed but it still serves its main purpose – to keep warm.
Kaftan
The word is originally from the Middle East but this item was such an
important part in the Russian wardrobe that it was seen as local. The Kaftan was a
coat, quite similar to the ones today, but they were made out of expensive materials
and decorated with embroidery.
Bast Shoes (Lapti)
Bast Shoes (Lapti), integral to traditional Russian peasant attire, epitomize
the resourcefulness and resilience of rural life. Crafted from woven birch bark or
bast fibers, these shoes embody simplicity and practicality, ensuring durability in
rugged environments.
Bast Shoes (Lapti) offer functionality and durability for both men and
women during agricultural labor or outdoor tasks. Their woven design ensures
flexibility and breathability, while a simple slip-on style with natural material
straps or laces provides a secure fit.
Because of the size of the country, different weather conditions and raw
materials there didn’t exist a single national Russian costume. The clothing
differed from region to region. In the central and northern country parts the
headdress was decorated with pearls while in the south it was accessorized with
buttons and wool decorations. But regardless of which region one lived in the
traditional clothing had a massive form and a distinct and simple silhouette.
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During the 14th century trade relations between Russia and Europe
expanded. Countries like France and Italy exported wool, silk and velvet to the
Russian capital. Clothing items featured a lot of patterns and bright colours as well
as decorations like lace and artificial stones. The decorative character of the clothes
was very important. Under the power of Tsar Ivan the Terrible, foreigners who
wanted to enter the Kremlin were ordered to wear Russian clothing in order to
show respect to the Russian throne. During the 17th century people who tried to
wear clothing similar to European ones or foreign hairstyles were punished.
The traditional Russian costume was an important part of the culture and
Western fashion trends couldn’t reach the country. That was until the 18th Century
when Peter the Great carried reformed the look of upper and middle classes and
forbid people in St. Petersburg wearing it because he thought the costume was only
for peasants. Court members were from now on obliged to wear European clothing
and the Long tradition of the sarafan began to crumble. From this point on
European fashion began to influence the country.
Members of the tsar family were the first to change their dresses to the
European style, which was very oriented towards French fashion. During this time
the corset as well as the headdress, the so called fontange were brought to Russia
from Europe. The fontange replaced the traditional headdress which was worn by
married women to cover their hair fully. European clothing showed that someone
belonged to the powerful classes while the other classes stuck with the traditional
dress. The clothes worn by the common folk transformed very slowly while the
change of clothing in the cities St. Petersburg and Moscow changed rapidly.
During the 19th century the rococo style became very popular. Especially
under the power of Elizaveta Petrovna life was oriented towards the French
fashion. Women wore dresses with narrow and low shoulders and a slim waist.
Oval frames and corsets were loved, high heels first appeared and skirts lost their
fluff. The french-fried sarafan included the traditional headdress with folded back
sleeves and a slim waist. In higher social classes the modern cocktail dress first
appeared.
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In the 20th century clothing became more practical. Tight corsets lost its way
to looser clothes. Comfort was key and simple sarafans, shorts, blouses and ties
came into fashion. Clothes for men and women had to be comfortable enough to
work in and easy to put on and move around. Shoulder pads were incorporated in
women’s clothing for a more masculine look and strict uniforms became part of
life. There was no room for individualism and the industrial production of clothing
hindered the rise of complicated cuts or decorations. At the end of the 20th century
and after great changes within the Country the Russian fashion slowly began to
melt with the European one. For fashion designers it was possible to open their
own business, travel around the world and international brands could open their
stores in Russian cities. Many Russian designers began to specialize in accessories
and private individuals rather than following with the mass production. Nowadays
a lot of Russian fashion designers have made their way to the top [9].
Discussion questions
1. What did traditional Russian clothing look like?
2. What did Russians traditionally used to wear?
3. What are some recognizable symbols of Russia in fashion?
4. Did Russians wear corsets?
5. What was the dress like in medieval Russia?
6. What did peasant women wear in medieval times?
7. What kind of trousers did people wear in the Middle Ages?
8. When did dress start to change in Russia? What is the traditional dress of
Russia?
9. What clothes are made in Russia?
10. What is the history of Russian clothing?
Vocabulary section
II. Transcribe and translate words and expressions below into Russian.
Heritage, attire, enduring legacy, rustic, rich fabrics, garment, national
identity, to intertwine, thread, to become iconic, tribal, cotton, silk, ear flaps,
indispensable, mink, sturdy, plush fur lining, embroidery, insulating, thick soles,
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braid, to tie around, collarless neck, peasant attire, rural life, bast fibers, to
crumble, woven, masculine look, cocktail dress.
III. Give English equivalents of the following words and expressions.
Национальный костюм, образ жизни, ландшафт, ремесло, социальный
статус, основа костюма, широкие рукава, вышивка, подол, передник,
широкий пояс, тонкий вкус, изобретательность, русский быт, казачьи
сапожки, народные мотивы, всеобщее признание и за рубежом, мотивы
народного искусства, наложить отпечаток, подвенечное платье, подражание,
выйти из обихода, туникообразная рубашка, шнурки.
IV. Word formation exercise.
a) Use the words in capitals to form a new word that fits into each blank.
Fashion bears meaning for a popular trend, specifically in styles of dress and
jewelry or manners of ___BEHAVE___. However, there is so much more to
fashion than meets the eye. The items of clothing us, we ___ DECISION___ to
wear are often times our best and tangible forms of personal ___EXPRESS___.
What we decide to wear shows other people what kind of person we are and what
we see from ourselves.
Fashion shows are an amusing ___PERFORM___ like any other kind of
performance art while increasing the economy index and offering jobs for a huge
number of people, ___RANGE ___ from the designer who creates the original
concepts to the outfitter who produces the clothing, and to the salesperson who
sells the items to us.
There is the unassailable truth that fashion makes our life more beautiful
than it actually is and it is by making everyone look and feel more beautiful than
they otherwise might. Fashion allows people of all genders, sizes, races,
backgrounds, and walks of life to feel ___COMFORT ___ on their skins, feel
good about them, and look their best. There is just something
___REMARKABLE___ idealistic about fashion in the sense that it conceives
things in the best light possible.
b) Read the text again. Guess if 1-5 below are true (T) or false (F).
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1. Fashion bears meaning for a popular trend, specifically in styles of dress
and jewelry or manners of behavior. T/F
2. What we decide to wear shows other people what kind of person we are
and what we see from ourselves. T/F
3. Fashion didn’t allow people of all genders, sizes, races, backgrounds, and
walks of life to feel comfortable on their skins, feel good about themselves, and
look their best. T/F
4. Fashion shows are an amusing performance unlike any other kind of
performance art. T/F
5. There isn’t anything idealistic about fashion in the sense that it conceives
things in the best light possible. T/F
V*. Translate the following sentences into English using the active
vocabulary of the Unit.
1. Мода – важный элемент культурного развития любой страны, в
том числе и России. Она играет роль в формировании идентичности людей и
служит средством коммуникации между людьми разных национальностей.
2. На моду Древней Руси и Московского царства оказывали влияние
различные факторы: особенности климата и присутствие сезонности,
социальное положение, гендерная принадлежность.
3. Основной летней одеждой мужчин являлась длинная рубаха или
сорочка с треугольными клиньями по бокам от пояса. Для представителей
знати рубаха являлась нижней одеждой, а для крестьян — верхней. Одежда
бояр включала золотые узоры, драгоценные камни, меха в отличие от
крестьян, которые в основном носили национальные костюмы из грубых
материалов.
4. У женщин, как и мужчин в основе была рубаха, однако она имела
отличный крой. Женская одежда имела больше декоративных элементов,
таких как яркая вышивка с орнаментами и узорами.
5. Наступили петровские времена. В историю моды в России
начинается активное проникновение европейской одежды. В 1699 году
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повелел царь «бороды брить, отменил старинные, русские одеяния и вместо
длинных платьев заставил мужчин немецкие кафтаны носить, а женщин,
вместо телогреи – юбки и шлафроки, и корнетами голову украшать».
6. Важной частью мужского костюма был кафтан: европейский кафтан
не такой длинный, как традиционно русский – он доходил только до колен.
Сверху он облегал фигуру, а к низу был более широким – по бокам у кафтана
были складки, а сзади – разрез. Это делало кафтан более удобным.
7. В 1920 годы к власти пришли большевики, и жизнь резко
изменилась. Тон в моде задает столичная богема – актрисы, художницы,
жены поэтов – люди искусства. Днем женщина носит пуританские костюмы
из твида, а к вечеру она разоблачается. Струящиеся по фигуре платья,
открытые плечи, прозрачные ткани, перья… Время декаданса и больших
перемен.
8. В 30-е годы в культуре торжествует соцреализм. В людях ценятся
работоспособность и универсальность. В моде простые сарафаны из ситца и
шерсти, платья-рубашки, юбки миди, блузки и брюки.
9. Вначале 40-х было не до нарядов. Милитаризация серьезно повлияла
на моду, В моде – подплечники, признак мужественности и силы. Строгая
форменная одежда стала частью повседневной жизни.
10. В 50-е годы люди, как правило, одевались однообразно. Простые
платья с монотонными узорами, костюмы с короткими приталенными
жакетами и юбками длиной чуть выше щиколотки и по колено.
11. В 60-е годы в СССР появились шпильки. В моде трикотажные
водолазки, клетка, яркая синтетика и искусственный мех.
12. В 70-е годы в моде мини-юбки, джинсы, приталенные батники с
острыми воротниками, брюки клеш и лаковые сапоги на платформе.
13. В 90-е годы, с падением советской власти, Запад нахлынул в
Россию. Гранжевая мода тех лет – это короткие топы, майки, короткие юбки,
шорты, блузки и пиджаки с подплечниками, черные капроновые колготки и
кислотные цвета.
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