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Файл:The Academy of Art and Design. Учебное пособие
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buttons made from ceramic and glass, with porcelain buttons being considered a
French specialty. These delicate pieces were painted by hand, or a master design
would be hand-painted and then a transfer painting would be done using coloured
inks. Ceramic buttons were also popular in Japan at this time, and were often
painted with traditional motifs.
Picture 6 – 1900s Japanese Buttons
Some unique button materials were used in China during the 19th century as
well. These fasteners were made of either carved vermilion lacquer on a wood base
– creating beautiful, intricate designs – or they were decorated and lacquered
papier-mâché. These designs became extremely popular in Europe in the late
1800s, and were considered masterpieces.
Mollusk shells, and pearls were another popular material used for buttons,
and we saw their rise in popularity increase in the 1890s. This began when
American Manufacturer John F. Boepple started using less iridescent but abundant
freshwater mussel shells found along the Mississippi River to create his fasteners.
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Picture 7 – “Pearl Buttons” made from mussels
More practical button wearers in the 1800s, such as the working class and
military personnel, often wore buttons made of pewter, since the metal was easy to
come by and could be stamped efficiently. The material would be moulded or
stamped out to create simple, but pragmatic designs, and their look was hated by
blue-blooded individuals. Additionally, cast brass buttons and calamine brass
buttons were popular amongst the lower class since they were inexpensive and
could carry ornamental designs while not being seen as distasteful by the upperclass.
By the 20th century, buttons had become primarily utilitarian and not
decorative, and in many cases were replaced by a new invention, the zipper. Still,
in 1918 the US government did an extensive survey on the internal market to see
what people were making their buttons out of, and they found a wide variety of
options. From wood, to cotton-covered crochet, lead, horn, rubber, and stone, with
a plethora of other material in between, buttons were still being made to suit
everyone’s needs.
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Picture 8 – Three cannons and crown, 1833
The shift to making buttons out of plastic, and resins happened
predominantly in the 1930s, and started taking on more modern designs. Most
buttons are now geometric, or abstract shapes, instead of the opulent designs from
centuries ago. Currently, over 60% of the world’s buttons are produced in Yongjia
County, China.
Still, buttons are a time-worn, staple of clothing that have been around for
centuries and we cannot deny their importance throughout history. While they
offered ornamentation for the fanciest attire, and the utilitarian need of the masses,
they have become just one of the many important tools in a sewer’s kit. History
used to be stamped on the front of a button, and it told a story about the wearer just
as much as it flaunted their fortune. So, next time you’re at the store looking at the
humble button, try thinking about how this little piece of metal or plastic used to be
considered one of the most important parts of a wardrobe [20].
Discussion questions
1. Have you ever wondered how or when your sewing tools were invented?
2. When were buttons invented?
3. What made buttons so lavish that some of them today are worth thousands of
dollars?
4. How were buttons being used by the Prince of France?
5. What was the original role of buttons according to the earliest findings?
6. What did the invention of the button hole bring about?
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7. Why was there actually a sumptuary law put in place to limit the use of buttons?
8. What materials were typically used as the base for buttons by the lower-class?
9. What materials were typically used for expensive buttons?
10. What do you know about embroidered buttons of the 18th century?
11. What unique button materials were used in France, Japan and China?
12. When did the rise in popularity of mollusk shells and pearls increase as
material used for buttons?
13. What buttons and why did the working class and military personnel wear in the
1800s?
14. What invention replaced buttons in the 20th century?
15. Where are more than 60% of the buttons in the world currently produced?
Vocabulary section
II. Transcribe and translate words and expressions below into Russian.
Spool of thread, status symbol, sumptuary law, animal bone, card of buttons,
to fasten a coat, brooches, expensive buttons, fabric-covered buttons, string
buttons, fastener, form of adornment, lover of sewing, from elbow to wrist, from
neckline to waist, garments, height of luxury, ivory, copper, and copper alloys,
tortoiseshell, jewelry, lavish, precious metals, metal with ruby-inlays, modern
attire, to open a drawer, ornamentation, to show wealth, to select the perfect
button, sewing tools, to prevent extravagance and luxury, wood.
III. Give English equivalents of the following words and expressions.
Застежка, роскошь, пуговицы с вышивкой, швейные инструменты,
катушка ниток, брошь, слоновая кость, медь, черепаховый панцирь, войти в
моду / быть на пике моды (идиома), пуговицы из керамики и стекла,
фарфоровые пуговицы, изящные изделия, расписывать вручную, от выреза
до талии, расписывать традиционными мотивами, от локтя до запястья,
цветные чернила, декоративные / роскошные / замысловатые узоры, шедевр,
раковины моллюсков, жемчуг, литые латунные пуговицы, металл с
рубиновыми вставками, застежка-молния, геометрические или абстрактные
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формы, элемент одежды, лицевая стороне пуговицы, повлиять на историю,
важная часть гардероба,
IV. Word formation exercise.
a) Use the words in capitals to form a new word that fits into each blank.
They are __VISIBLE__ everyday items you only notice when they are
missing, but for a few centuries buttons were the status symbols of their time. And,
if you know how to read them, buttons are peepholes into fascinating stories from
history. Unlike today, in the 18th century buttons were a status symbol and object
of __ADORN__ worn by men and women.
“The main people that had the buttons that mattered were the aristocracy.
They were a show-off element,” explained Robyn Caddy, __FOUND__ of the
Victorian Button __COLLECT__ Club. These buttons are known by collectors as
the Gay Nineties and date back to 1890. When Ms Caddy founded the club in
1996, there was a burgeoning button-collecting culture in the United States, where
button __COMPETE__ are held, but there were no official clubs in Australia. Her
passion for buttons started with the __DISCOVER__ of a picture button in her
friend’s antique shop. Picture buttons were highly detailed, miniature relief designs
often manufactured from metal or wood in England during the 18th century.
They would often depict a popular story from folklore, popular culture or
religion. Wealthy Victorian women would wear panels of the ‘popular culture’
picture buttons down their long dresses as fashion items and __CONVERSE__
pieces. This gilded brass picture button shows Archangel Michael slaying Satan,
who is represented as a dragon. Through her love of buttons, Ms Caddy has
developed a huge collection and a great wealth of __KNOW__. To her, buttons are
not just tiny beautiful objects, but intimate __HISTORY__ artifacts. “I look at an
18th century button and I can see that it’s been worn, and you sort of imagine the
man handling them and putting on his coat, or his manservant doing his buttons
up,” she said. “It's so evocative of another period in time. If I had the chance I'd
love to go back for one day, in about 1700. That’d be great.” Fellow collector and
club member Andrea Lowenthal likes to collect Count Fersen buttons. “Count
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Fersen was believed to be a lover of Marie Antoinette. He was __SUPPOSE__
Swedish and he came to a fairly sticky end,” she said. “The people of Sweden
decided that they didn’t really like him and he was trampled to death.” Count
Fersen buttons were manufactured in the early 1900s from lithograph and
celluloid. By the 1900s, long after Marie Antoinette was executed by guillotine,
Count Fersen had become a much better-liked historical figure. “He was a
romantic hero from a bygone era,” Ms Lowenthal said [21].
b) Read the text again. Guess if 1-5 below are true (T) or false (F).
1. Buttons are invisible everyday items you only notice when they are
missing, but for a few centuries buttons were the status symbols of their time. T / F
2. In the 18th century buttons were a status symbol and object of adornment
worn by men and women. T / F
3. Poor Victorian women would wear panels of the ‘popular culture’ picture
buttons down their long dresses as fashion items. T / F
4. By the 1900s, long after Marie Antoinette was executed by guillotine,
Count Fersen had become a romantic hero from a bygone era. T / F
5. Robyn Caddy is a founder of the Victorian Button Collectors Club. T / F
V*. Translate the following sentences into English using the active
vocabulary of the Unit.
1. Никто не знает, кто изобрел пуговицу. Возможно, она появилась еще
в 2000 году до нашей эры.
2. Когда пуговица только появилась, она была декоративной: просто
что-то красивое, пришитое к вашей одежде.
3. Дизайн пуговицы не сильно изменился со времен средневековья. Это
один из самых долговечных дизайнов в истории.
4. На мой взгляд, лучшие пуговицы обычно круглые. Есть пуговица в
форме купола, с двумя отверстиями или с четырьмя отверстиями.
5. Едва ли не важнее пуговицы является петля. Способ, которым вы ее
вычисляете, таков: диаметр пуговицы плюс ее ширина, плюс немного
удобства.
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6. До появления пуговиц одежда была объемной, более свободной и
Agreement
Disagreement
I guess so.
You have a point there.
I was just going to say that.
That's not always true.
That's not always the case.
No, I'm not so sure about that.
бесформенной.
7. Молнии ломаются. Липучка издает много шума и через некоторое
время изнашивается.
8. Если пуговица отваливается, вы просто в буквальном смысле
пришиваете ее. Пуговица нужна надолго.
9. Пуговицы также часто используются на одежде с чисто
декоративной целью.
10. Дорогие пуговицы также изготавливались из меди и ее сплавов.
Мастера по металлу часто украшали такие пуговицы вставками из слоновой
кости, панциря черепахи и драгоценных камней.
VI. In pairs, discuss the statements below. Say what you think and ask
your partner if he/she agrees or disagrees with you. Use the following phrases
to help you:
1. There are no bad buttons, there are only bad people.
2. The button and the buttonhole is such a great invention.
3. If you don’t have good taste and you can’t pick out a button, then let
someone else do it.
Quiz on Buttons*
1. Which of the following items replaced buttons in ancient Rome?
a) Fibula
b) Velcro
c) Zipper
d) Coolus
2. Which ancient civilization invented buttons?
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a) Indus Valley
b) Mesopotamia
c) Egypt
d) Sumer
3. What is the purpose of a button?
a) To fasten two pieces of fabric together through a hole or loop of thread.
b) To fasten two pieces of fabric together by interlocking when pressed together
c) To close open gaps in fabric using a metal interlocking device.
d) To help sew an even hem on a garment.
4. Which company is credited with inventing the first modern button?
a) Levi Strauss & Co
b) Brooks Brothers
c) The Gap
d) J.Crew
5. Which button style features a raised dome shape?
a) Flat button
b) Shank button
c) Button stud
d) Dome button
6. What is the purpose of a buttonhole?
a) To secure a button
b) To create a decorative element
c) To breathe life into a garment
d) All of the above
7. Which type of button is commonly used in upholstery?
a) Fabric-covered button
b) Toggle button
c) Snap button
d) Metal button
8. What is the purpose of a button stud?
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a) To attach a button to a garment
b) To add decorative elements to a button
c) To fasten fabric layers together
d) To prevent buttons from coming loose
9. Which button style does not have a through-hole design?
a) Shank button
b) Toggle button
c) button
d) Flat button
10. Which button closure style is commonly seen on coats and blazers?
Snap button
Shank button
Toggle button
Button stud
11. What is the function of a self-shank button?
a) Adding decorative elements to a button
b) To attach a button to a garment
c) To prevent fabric from fraying
d) To add depth and dimension to a button
12. What is the significance of National Button Day?
a) Celebrating the invention of buttons
b) Recognizing the button industry's contributions
c) Appreciating the versatility of buttons
d) All of the above
Grammar section
I. Read the text and find sentences with the following tenses: Present
Perfect; Present Continuous; Past Simple.
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Hello! I am glad to see you! It’s very nice to talk to you again! Sorry for my
poor English, but I’m just learning! And take my word for it, in a couple of months
I’ll be much better at it, that's for sure!
I’ve just come from Moscow today, and it's very cold there, as usual. And it
constantly rains! Frankly speaking, I’m a bit tired of the weather in Moscow! As
well as the pace of living in Moscow! Traffic-jams and rain - that's the beginning
of every Moscow day! To tell the truth, I have a strong belief, that our mood
depends on the weather as we, human beings are always under the weather! And
when you get out of bed on the wrong side – just look through the window – it
will be raining, for sure. But I don't complain! I'm an optimist! And I don't let
myself be in a bad mood! I just say to myself: «Hey! Get a grip! And never ever
give up!»
And what about you? What weather do you prefer? And what about your
children? How old are they? Have they entered the school yet? Oh! Things never
stay the same! And you have to keep up with the time, if you want to succeed in
life!
Well! It was nice chatting with you! Honestly speaking, it’s the first time
I’ve chatted with a foreigner in English! And I enjoyed it a lot! I tried to do my
best, and I think that I managed to do it pretty good!
Good bye! See you later!
II. Explain the difference between Present Perfect; Present Continuous;
Past Simple (See Appendix with the rules and explanations).
III. Put the verb into the correct form.
Buttons and buttonholes (to be) two designer “secret weapons.” It’s easy to
select buttons as an afterthought, but taking the extra time to consider the size,
shape and material of your buttons can make the difference between a well thought
out design and a garment that just needed to be completed.
Signature buttons or buttonholes can become your hallmark as a designer.
The placement of your buttonholes may be what makes your design stand apart
from the rest. And if you (to have) any doubt about the importance of buttons and
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