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Файл:The Academy of Art and Design. Учебное пособие
.pdf
Opening magazines would be like opening a door giving one access to a magic,
different world. “This (to be) not just a magazine. This is a shining beacon of hope
for a young boy growing up in Rhode Island with six brothers pretending to go to
soccer practice when he was going to sewing class and reading Runway under the
covers at night with a flashlight. You (to have) no idea how many legends have
walked these halls.”
Indeed. Magazines (to represent) a teleportation tool, taking one to distinct
spheres without having to leave the bedroom. It (to be) the smell of freshly printed
paper, the haptic, the excitement one feels when picking up a monthly issue of our
favorite magazine. Not necessarily would one think about the effort feeding into
the magazine creation process. The behind-the-scenes. Those who (to choose) to
transform their enthusiasm into a full-time profession quickly become aware that it
requires commitment, focus, and industry awareness but also industry contacts,
access, and knowledge. But how does a fashion magazine nowadays operate and
what positions are being necessary to assemble an issue, print or digital?
A fashion magazine can be compared to a kingdom with its hierarchy. The
Queen or King is equated with the President/ Publisher.
Unit 10. FASHION INNOVATION: TECHNOLOGIES CREATING THE
FUTURE OF FASHION
I. Read the text and answer the questions below.
When it comes to fashion innovation, consumer adoption, and constant
technological development are critical. As both industries are future-driven and
consumer-focused, adoption happens naturally. But for technology not all
developments are suitable. From digital influencers to AI, are the top 21 fashion
innovations of 2020, shaping the future of fashion.
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Picture 9 – Fashion Innovation
22. Virtual Influencers
Following on the steps of Lil Miquela Sousa, the world’s first virtual influencer
and digital supermodel, a new influential virtual persona has emerged: Noonoouri.
Created by the Munich-based designer and creative director Joerg Zuber, this
digital persona has become a significant player in the fashion world. She has over
300,000 followers and partnerships with major brands such as Dior, Versace and
Swarovski.
Just like Miquela, Noonoouri’s features product placement.
In the past, she ‘pose’ with a bottle of Calvin Klein’s eternity perfume,
receiving over 10,000 likes.
21. Fabric from Seaweed
Algiknit is a company that produces textile and fibres from kelp, a variety of
seaweed. The extrusion process turns the biopolymer mixture into a kelp-based
thread that can be knitted, or 3D printed to minimise waste.
The final knitwear is biodegradable and can be dyed with natural pigments in a
closed-loop cycle.
20. Biodegradable Glitter
BioGlitz is the world’s first company to produce biodegradable glitter. Based
on a unique formula made from eucalyptus tree extract, the eco-glitter is
compostable and biodegradable.
Excellent fashion innovation as it allows for sustainable consumption of glitter
without the environmental damage associated with microplastics.
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19. Circular Fashion Software
BA-X has created a cloud-based innovative software that interconnects circular
design with circular retail models and closed-loop recycling technologies. The
system enables fashion brands to design, sell and recycle garments in a circular
model, with minimal waste and pollution.
Clothes are appended an identification tag that links to a reverse supply chain
network.
18. Textiles from Trees
Kapok is a tree that grows naturally, without the use of pesticides and
insecticide. Moreover, it is found in arid soil not suitable for agricultural farming,
offering a sustainable alternative to high water consumption natural fibre crops
such as cotton.
‘Flocus’ is a company that has designed a new technology to extract natural
yarns, fillings, and fabrics from kapok fibres.
17. Leather from Apples
Apple pectin is an industrial waste product, often discarded at the end of the
manufacturing process. However, a new technology developed by Frumat allows
the use of apple pectin to create sustainable and compostable materials.
The brand uses apple skins to create a leather-like material durable enough to
make luxury accessories. Moreover, this type of vegan apple leathers can be dyed
and tanned without toxic chemicals.
16. Fashion Rating Apps
The number of fashion renting apps is on the rise. These apps are designed to
provide ethical ratings for thousands of fashion brands. These ratings are based on
the brands’ impact on people, animals, and the planet.
The rating system aggregates standards, certifications and publicly available
data into consumer-ready point scores. These apps promote transparency across the
fashion industry and to allow customers to make conscious purchasing decisions.
15. Biodegradable Polyester
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Mango Materials is an innovative company that produces bio-polyester, a form
of biodegradable polyester. The material can be biodegraded in many
environments, including landfills, wastewater treatment plants, and the oceans.
The novel material can prevent microfibre pollution and also contribute to a
closed-loop, sustainable fashion industry.
14. Lab-Made Fabrics
Technology has finally reached the point where we can re-programme the selfassembly of collagen molecules in the lab and build leather-like fabrics.
The next-generation fabric delivers a more efficient and sustainable alternative
to leather without harming animals. Two companies worth mentioning here are
Provenance and Modern Meadow.
13. Monitoring Services
‘Reverse Resources’ is a platform that enables fashion brands and garment
manufacturers to address pre-consumer waste for industrial upcycling. The
platform allows factories to monitor, map and measure leftover fabrics.
These scraps become traceable through their following life cycles and can be
reintroduced into the supply chain, limiting the use of virgin materials.
12. Knitting Robots
Scalable Garment Technologies Inc has built a robotic knitting machine linked
to a 3D modelling software. The robot can make custom seamless knit garments.
Moreover, this unique knitting device enables the digitisation of the entire
production process and on-demand manufacturing.
11. Rental Marketplaces
Style Lend is an innovative fashion rental marketplace that uses AI and
machine learning to match users based on fit and style.
Renting out garments is a new business model that extends the life cycle of
clothing and delays from ending in the landfills.
10. Needle-Free Sewing
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Nano Textiles is a sustainable alternative to using chemicals to attach finishes
onto fabrics. This innovative material embeds fabric finishes directly into the
fabric via a process called ‘cavitation’.
The Nano Textiles technology can be used on a wide range of products such as
antibacterial and anti-odour finishes, or water repellency.
Moreover, the system protects consumers and the environment from hazardous
chemicals.
9. Fibres from Oranges
The orange fibre is extracted from the cellulose found in discarded oranges
during industrial pressing and processing. The fibre is then enriched with citrus
fruit essential oils, creating a unique and sustainable fabric.
8. Bio Packaging
‘Paptic’ is a company that manufactures bio-based alternative packaging
materials made from wood. The resulting material has similar properties of paper
and plastic used in the retail sector.
Yet, the material has higher tear resistance than paper and can be recycled
alongside cardboard.
7. Nanotechnology Materials
Thanka to ‘PlanetCare’ there’s a microfibre filter that can be integrated into
washing machines to capture microplastics before reaching wastewater. The
system is based on water microfiltration, and it works thanks to electrically
charged fibres and membranes.
This nanotech technology contributes by reducing microplastics pollution the
world’s waters.
6. Digital Runways
Because of Covid-19 and following the cancellation of fashion shows on a
global scale, the industry is looking at digital environments.
In the early phase of the outbreak, Tokyo Fashion Week rethought its runway
show by streaming concept presentations online, without a live audience. Inspired
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by Tokyo’s effort, other cities have turned to technology to communicate with their
now ‘stay-at-home’ audience.
A host of other events surrounding the international fashion weeks are also
restructuring around the never-ending pandemic. For example, trade shows have
re-established as live online events, and LFW designer showrooms are now
digitised.
5. Clothing Reward Programmes
Clothing reward programmes are gaining ground fast, be that in “bring them
back to recycle” or “wear them longer” aspects. For example, Tommy Jeans
Xplore line comprises a smart-chip technology that rewards customers each time
they wear the garments.
All 23 pieces of the line are embedded with a bluetooth smart tag, which
connects to the iOS Tommy Hilfiger Xplore app. The collected points can be
redeemed as discounts on future Tommy products.
4. 3D Printed Sustainable Apparel
The constant R&D in 3D printing took us to a point where we can now print
with advanced materials. Carbon, nickel, alloys, glass, and even bio-inks, are mere
formalities.
In the fashion industry, we are seeing growing interest in printing leather and
fur-like materials.
3. Fashion Blockchain
Anyone interested in fashion innovation is looking to leverage the power of
blockchain technology. Just like the internet changed the world as we know it,
blockchain technology has the potential to reshape the way businesses procure,
manufacture and sell fashion.
Blockchain can create a universe of informational exchanges as perpetual
information and experiences we employ, utilise and exploit, every minute and
every hour of the day.
2. Virtual Clothes
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Superpersonal is a British startup working on an app that allows buyers to try
on clothes virtually. Users feed the app with basic information such as gender,
height and weight.
The app creates a virtual version of the user and starts appending digital
modelling clothes on the virtual silhouette. The app was launched at the London
Fashion Show in February and is already available for download. The company
also has a commercial version of Superpersonal for retail outlets. It allows retailers
to create personalised shopping experiences for their customers.
1. AI Designers and Stylists
Modern algorithms are increasingly powerful, adaptive and versatile. In fact, AI
makes the next generation of in-store robots appear to possess human-like
intelligence. For example, the London-based Intelistyle has launched an artificial
intelligence stylist able to work with retailers and customers.
For retailers, the AI designer can ‘complete looks’ by generating multiple
outfits based around a single product. It can also recommend alternatives for outof-stock items.
For shoppers, the AI recommends styles and outfits based on body type, hair
and eye colour and skin tone. The AI personal stylist can be accessed on any
device, allowing customers a seamless move between online and offline shopping.
Conclusion
Fashion innovation is paramount to commercial value and longevity. It is
critical to how we shape the industry beyond the current crisis. Fashion innovation
can help to replace wasteful materials with sustainable alternatives. It can end lowpaid human jobs, repetitive and dangerous.
Innovative fashion will allow us to function and interact in a digital world. A
world of autonomous cars, smart homes, and connected objects. There is no way
back, not to pre-pandemic fashion and not if we want fashion to remain relevant.
The only way forward is fashion innovation, development and adoption [11].
Discussion questions
1. What points are critical when it comes to fashion innovation?
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2. What do you know about a virtual persona Noonoouri?
3. What is fabric from seaweed?
4. Why is the eco-glitter compostable and biodegradable?
5. What is the reason for minimal waste and pollution when we talk about Circular
Fashion Software?
6. Why is kapok the great tree?
7. What is the new use of apple pectin in the fashion industry??
8. What does the rating system aggregate?
9. Name a form of biodegradable polyester, which can be biodegraded in many
environments, including landfills, wastewater treatment plants, and the oceans.?
10. What do you know about the next-generation fabric which delivers a more
efficient and sustainable alternative to leather without harming animals?
11. What can 3D knitting robots do?
12. Tell about renting out garments.
13. What is the orange fibre extracted from?
14. How did Tokyo Fashion Week rethink its runway show in the early phase of
the outbreak?
15. What can the AI designer do for retailers and for shoppers?
Vocabulary section
II. Transcribe and translate words and expressions below into Russian.
Fashion innovation, constant technological development, virtual / digital
influencer, biopolymer mixture, final knitwear, biodegradable, unique formula,
eco-glitter, environmental damage, sustainable and compostable materials, toxic
chemicals, luxury accessories, the supply chain, seamless knit garments, based on
fit and style, to extend the life cycle of clothing, antibacterial and anti-odour
finishes, water repellency.
III. Give English equivalents of the following words and expressions.
Обогащать волокно, эфирные масла цитрусовых, создавать уникальную
и экологичную ткань, натуральные волокна, электрически заряженные
волокна, мембрана, обладать высокой прочностью, окрашивать и дубить,
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показы на подиумах, демонстрационные залы дизайнеров, линейка товаров,
печать на материалах, печатать в 3D-формате, примерять одежду виртуально,
тип телосложения, цвет волос / глаз, тон кожи, нет в наличии, создавать /
дополнять образы, позировать, флакон духов, блестки, хлопок, кожа, мех,
биоразлагаемый полиэстер, экологичная альтернатива коже, молекулы
коллагена, на заказ, в лабораторных условиях, бесшовные трикотажные
изделия, подобрать одежду по фигуре и стилю.
IV. Word formation exercise.
a) Use the words in capitals to form a new word that fits into each blank.
Today, consumers want to be captivated, and the best step to
__ACHIEVE___ this is to create products that are unique and cutting-edge, using
new technologies, materials, and processes. Some pivotal __INNOVATE__ in this
area include smart textiles (also known as e-textiles or electronic textiles): fabrics
that have been engineered to incorporate __ELECTRON__ and other digital
technologies.
For example, smart textiles can include sensors that monitor vital signs or
environmental conditions, or fabrics that change colour or shape in response to
external stimuli. Future fabrics are another example. These are textiles that have
been developed using innovative materials and __MANUFACTURE__ processes;
often designed to be more sustainable, durable, and versatile than traditional
textiles. Some future fabrics are made from recycled or bio-based materials, while
others incorporate advanced coatings or finishes to amplify __PERFORM__ and
functionality.
__ADDITION__, innovations like 3D printing and digital weaving are
enabling designers and manufacturers to create more complex and intricate textiles
and products – new tools that deliver a __GENUINE__ new end result.
These digital innovations can be powerful unlocks. Not just because they
promise new possibilities and new efficiencies, but because they provide the
opportunity for fashion to break free of that inertia we mentioned, turning digital
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innovations into a direct and __MEASURE__ benefit to invention and
imagination.
When planned for and implemented thoughtfully, embracing innovation
means better efficiency and productivity, but also that profound sense of
empowerment and __POSSIBLE__. Consider fashion’s current rush towards
virtual prototyping and sampling, which is drastically reducing the time and cost
involved in bringing an idea to market – as well as improving profitability – at the
same time as empowering __DESIGN__ to experiment by cutting the distance
between idea and reality [13].
b) Read the text again. Guess if 1-5 below are true (T) or false (F).
1. Some pivotal innovations in this area include smart textiles: fabrics that
have been engineered to incorporate electronics and other digital technologies. T /
F
2. Smart textiles can include sensors that monitor vital signs or
environmental conditions, or fabrics that change colour or shape in response to
external stimuli. T / F
3. Digital weaving and 3D printing are enabling designers and manufacturers
to create more complex and intricate textiles and products. T / F
4. These digital innovations cannot be powerful unlocks. T / F
5. Some future fabrics are made from recycled or bio-based materials, while
others incorporate advanced coatings or finishes to amplify performance and
functionality. T / F
V*. Translate the following sentences into English using the active
vocabulary of the Unit.
1. Мир моды, как и многие другие сферы жизни, активно переживает
влияние современных технологий. Инновации проникают во все аспекты
модной индустрии, начиная от дизайнерских процессов и заканчивая
потребительским опытом.
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