Unit 5

PATTERNMAKING: MANIPULATION

1.Read and translate the words

Flexible, variety, excess, tuck-dart, pleat, flare, gathers, separately, graduated, fit, yoke, parallel, horizontal

2.Read and translate the verbs

To refer, to stitch, to fold, to pivot, to resemble, to blend, to radiate, to affect, to attach, to transfer, to exist

3.Match the English word combinations in column A to their Russian equivalents in column B

4.Read and translate the text

Manipulation of the form with the help of the darts and its equivalents

The dart is one of the most flexible and creative parts of the pattern. The space between the dart legs can be used in a variety of creative ways.

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Dart excess used as design is referred to as dart equivalent. Dart equivalents are illustrated as tuck-darts, pleats, flares, and gathers.

The difference between a dart and a dart equivalent is the manner in which each is marked and stitched. Darts are stitched end to end, tuck-darts are partially stitched, pleats are folded, and fullness is spread and gathered along the stitch line or flare when not stitched. Gathers are illustrated separately using slash-spreads and pivotal-transfer techniques. The following terms should be used:

1)A tuck-dart - a partially stitched dart. A tuck is a stitched fold on the fabric, resembling a pleat. Tucks used as a design detail may be placed on any garment and in any direction.

2)A pleat - an unstitched, folded dart.

3)A flare - an open unstitched dart. The open dart space is blended across the bottom. Flare should be added to the side seam.

4)Gathers a group of small pleats that change the look of the basic garment but do not affect the fit.

Darts can be of different types, exist alone or in the cluster. The darts can be:

1)Graduated darts – darts of varying length within a group

2)Radiating darts radiate from a focal point and may be of the same or a graduated length

3)Parallel darts

4)Asymmetric darts

A yoke is the upper part of a garment that fits the shoulder area. It is attached to the lower section by a seam that may appear as a horizontal or stylized line. The yoke controls gathers, pleats, or a plain area to which it is attached [11].

5.Answer the following questions

1)What is the dart?

2)Name dart equivalents.

3)What is the difference between the dart and the dart equivalence?

4)How are tuck-darts stitched?

5)What is a pleat?

6)What is the difference between the pleat and the flare?

7)What type of dart equivalents exists in the cluster?

8)What kinds of darts can you mention?

9)What is the yoke?

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