Unit 8
SLEEVE
1.Read and translate the words
Device, leg-of-mutton, armhole, bodice, allowance, elbow, wrist, grainline, lengthwise, bias, cross grain, purpose, roll-up, contoured
2.Read and translate the verbs
To puff out, to taper, to modify, to accommodate, to turn up, to alter
3.Match the English word combinations in column A to their Russian equivalents in column B
|
A |
|
B |
1) |
the cap of the sleeve |
a) |
наплечник |
2) |
padded shoulder |
b) |
рукав без вытачки |
3) |
set-in sleeve |
c) |
высота оката рукава |
4) |
cap height |
d) |
ширина оката рукава |
5) |
biceps |
e) |
манжета |
6) |
sleeve ease |
f) |
широкая линия низа |
7) |
sleeve cuff |
g) |
окат рукава |
8) |
elbow draft |
h) |
широкий низ рукава |
9) |
dartless sleeve |
i) |
втачной рукав |
10) |
sweeping hemline |
j) |
свобода облегания рукава |
4.Read and translate the text
Sleeves have been used as a device for changing the silhouette of garment throughout the history of fashion. In the 1880s, the dominant silhouette was a leg-of-mutton sleeve – a sleeve that puffs out from the shoulder with the lower section tapered toward the waist. In 1920s, a sleeve with a darted or an extanded cap became popular. In the 1940s, the sleeve was smooth and included padded shoulders. There was a return to a natural shoulder with minimal padding in the 1950s. Since then, these important sleeve silhouettes have appeared and disappeared and will probably reappear again.
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There are two major classifications of sleeves:
1)The set-in sleeve cut separately and stutched into the armhole of
the bodice.
2)The sleeve combined with part or all of the bodice.
The following terms are used to describe the sleeve (figure 8.1):
Figure 8.1
1)Sleeve cap – curved top of the sleeve from front to back.
2)Cap height – distance from biceps to cap to center.
3)Biceps level – widest part of the sleeve dividing the cap from the lower sleeve
4)Sleeve ease – additional allowance at biceps, elbow, and wrist
levels.
5)Cap ease – difference between the cap and armhole measurements.
6)Elbow level – the location of the dart is level with the elbow of
the arm.
7) Wrist level – the bottom (hemline) of the long sleeve, level with the wrist.
The shoulder line and sleeve cap can be modified to accommodate shoulder pads. The thickness of the shoulder pad must be added to the shoulder pad.
Sleeve cuffs are developed in a variety of widths and styled in a number of ways. The most common are the basic shirt cuff, the French cuff, the roll-up cuff, the contoured cuff. Roll-up cuffs are developed all in one with the sleeve or as separate cuffs stitched to the sleeve and turned up. The
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