III Make up a plan of the text.

IV Translate the paragraphs in italics in a written form.

V Questions for discussion:

1. What are horizontal measurements?

2. Why does figure type refer to vertical measurements?

3. What is ease added to pattern for?

4. How do pattern catalogues help dress-makers?

5. What information is included into the pattern envelope?

6. Why are pattern pieces well-marked?

7. What do pattern symbols tell us?

8. Is it better to use patterns from the catalogue or to make it yourself?

9. Can one change the ready-made pattern on the pattern envelope?

TEXT C

I Mind the following words and word-combinations:

1. to alter – змінювати

2. an average set – загальний набір

3. high hips – високістегна

4. a sway back – округла спина

5. rounded shoulders – покаті плечі

6. heavy set – крупна статура

II Listen to the text and be ready to answer the questions:

1. Why do people usually alter commercial patterns?

2. How can one solve problems with the figure?

III Listen to the text again. Decide if the statements are true or false.

1. To cut a garment and sew it up is an impossible dream.

2. Many people change patterns made by different companies.

3. Your own measurements for your own patterns are the best choice.

4. One can consider the problem with his figure type.

5. It’s not easy to make a pattern by yourself.

UNIT 6

TEXT A

I Listen and remember the following words:

1. to shape – утворювати форму

2. a tuck – зборка

3. sheer – прозорий, легкий

4. to anchor – закріплювати

5. reinforcement – посилення

6. a gusset – вставка, клин

7. to ravel – розпускатися, розтріпуватися

8. to overcast – зшивання через край

9. moderate – помірний

10. curl – закручений

II Read and remember the following phrases:

1. coarse fabric – груба тканина

2. a basting stitch – наметувальний стібок

3. sharp-pointed scissors – ножиці з гострими кінчиками

4. an underarm seam – шов пройми

5. a straight-needle machine – прямоголкова швейна машинка

6. loosely woven fabric – матерія з нещільний переплетенням

7. a bias seam – косий шов

8. a double-stitched seam – подвійний шов

9. to be appropriate for – підходящий

10. in one pass – за один прохід

Sewing a seam

A seam is row of stitching that holds two or more layers of fabric together. Seams shape fabric to fit your body. The use of certain methods to make seams can add expensive detailing to the pattern design.

To begin the operation it is necessary to thread your machine. Machine stitches are divided into two types - straight and zigzag. The straight-needle machine makes only straight stitches, unless a special attachment is used; whereas the zigzag machine can create both.

Regulation Stitch

This is the stitch used for permanent stitching such as seams, darts and tucks. The length and tension of the stitch may vary according to the fabric used. On most medium-weight fabrics, the regulation stitch is about 12 stitches to the inch; sheers require a finer stitch (16 to the inch); heavy or coarse fabrics generally take 8 to 10 stitches to the inch

Basting Stitch

Basting stitches are used for temporary joining of sections or details which may require reworking when the garment is fitted or for marking. The longest stitch on the machine (6 to 8 per inch) and a contrasting thread should be used so that the markings and bastings are easily seen and easily removed. The same tension on the machine is used as you do for permanent stitching on the fabric. To remove basting, the needle thread should be clipped every few inches and pulled out the bobbin thread using small, sharp-pointed scissors.

Stitching for Gathering

Sections which require easing or gathering should be stitched with a long stitch (6 to 10 to the inch) in matching color thread. Long threads at the ends of the stitching are to be left. Threads at one end around a pin have to be anchored, then the bobbin thread at the other end is picked up and gently drawn up to form the amount of easing or gathering needed. The shorter stitch (10 to the inch) will form finer easing or gathering; the longer (6 to the inch) will create fuller easing or gathering. Sometimes a heavier thread is used on the bobbin.

Stitching for Reinforcement

Areas where there is strain or a need for reinforcement, such as points of collars, cuffs, gussets, pointed faced openings of necklines, underarm seam of kimono sleeves, will need a finer, tighter stitch, usually 16 to 20 stitches to the inch.

Zigzag Stitch

Zigzag machines are capable of making the zigzag stitch but a straight-needle machine will require a special zigzag attachment. The small zigzag stitch may be used to stitch seams in jersey and loosely woven fabric with bias seams, giving greater elasticity which helps prevent seam splitting.

Aside from the standard straight-stitch seam there are several other stitches that are appropriate for various fabrics and situations. Whenever you sew with knits, for example, you need a seam that will stretch with the fabric. To prevent raveling of woven fabrics, seam allowance edges must be finished. The cut edge of knit fabrics does not ravel, but they often curl. To minimize this problem, the seam allowances are usually finished together and pressed to one side.

Double-stitched seam is appropriate for fabrics with minimal stretch or for seams sewn in the vertical direction on moderate stretch knits.

Narrow zigzag seam is appropriate for very stretchy knits.

Some stitch styles are a pattern of zigzag and straight stitches that stitch and finish the seam in one pass.