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III Make up a plan of the text.

IV Translate the paragraph in italics in a written form.

V Questions for discussion:

1. Why were garments sewn by hand?

2. Why is it not clear who was the first inventor of a sewing machine?

3. Why did Parisian tailors fear sewing machines at first?

4. What was the result of that fear?

5. When was the first prototype of the modern sewing machine finished?

6. Why did Howe have to send his brother to England?

7. How did Singer manage to become “number one” in sewing industry those days?

8. Were the first inventors of the sewing machine successful in their lives?

TEXT C

І Mind the following words and word-combinations:

1. repair (n) – ремонт

2. immediate – негайний

3. to adjust – налаштовувати

4. a wound bobbin – намотана шпулька

5. a bobbin case – шпульний ковпачок

6. ragged stitches – нерівні стібки

7. to skip – перескакувати, пропускати

8. frustration – поломка

II Listen to the text and be ready to answer the questions:

1. Can a wrong used thread cause problems with sewing? How?

2. Why is it better to check your sewing machine before actual sewing?

III Listen to the text again. Decide if the statements are true or false.

1. Any sewing machine has to be sent to repair shops.

2. You should adjust upper tension to a certain type of material.

3. One should begin sewing using an empty bobbin.

4. One can mix different sizes of threads.

5. If you have an expensive sewing machine you may not check it before sewing.

UNIT 5

TEXT A

I Listen and remember the following words:

1. to lay out – викроювати

2. beeswax – бджолиній віск

3. tangling – закутування

4. transparent – прозорий

5. dimension – вимір

7. erasable – той, що витирається

8. to hone – точити

9. trimming – оздоблення

10. clipping – зрізування

11. an eye – петелька

12. a buckle – пряжка

II Read and remember the following phrases:

1. sewing supplies – швейне приладдя

2. hot-forged steel – сталь гарячої плавки

3. pinking shears – фестонні ножиці

4. a seam ripper – розпорювач

5. a rotary cutter – рухомий різак

6. bent-handled shears – ножиці з вигнутими лезами

7. seam allowance – припуск на шов

8. a cording – мотузка

9. a stretchable braid – шнурок, що розтягується

10. a waistband stiffener – закріплювач поясу

Sewing supplies

Sewing involves main steps: measuring, laying out the pattern, cutting, marking, stitching and pressing. For each of these steps there are special tools and supplies to make your sewing easier and help you complete your projects successfully.

Hand-sewing suppliesare needles and pins. They are available in a variety of sizes and styles. Thimble protects your finger while hand sewing. Available in a variety of styles and sizes, it is worn on whichever finger you use to push the needle through the fabric. Pincushion provides a safe and handy place to store pins.

Needle threader eases threading of hand and machine needles.

Beeswax with holder strengthens thread and prevents tangling while hand sewing.

Measuring and marking tools.Transparent ruler allows you to see what you are measuring and marking. It also is used to check fabric grainline.

Yardstick (meterstick) should be made of smooth hardwood or metal.

Tape-measure has the flexibility helpful for measuring items with shape and dimension. Marking chalk is available in several forms; as powder in a rolling wheel dispenser, as a pencil, or as a flat slice. Chalk lines are easily removable from most fabrics.

Fabric marking pens are available in both air-erasable and water-erasable forms. Narrow marking tape is an alternative method for marking fabrics when other methods are less suitable.

Cutting tools.You should use cutting tools only for sewing. The best-quality scissors and shears are hot-forged, high-grade steel, honed to a fine cutting edge.

1) sewing scissors – pointed for trimming and clipping work. The two handles are the same size.

2) Shears – used for cutting fabrics. The two handles are shaped differently, to fit the hand comfortably.

3) Pinking or scalloping shears – used to cut a decorative edge that reduces raveling of the fabric.

4) Embroidery scissors – used for light detail work, like cutting threads, ripping stitches, and cutting buttonholes.

5) Electric scissors – powered by a battery or other source of electricity. These make cutting faster.

6) seam ripper – aids in removing stitches from fabric; lifts thread away from fabric before cutting.

7) Thread clippers – used for clipping threads quickly.

8) Rotary cutter and cutting mat – used to cut long, straight fabric strips quickly. Be sure to cut on the protective mat.

Bent-handled dressmaker's shears are best for cutting fabric shapes because the angle of the lower blade lets fabric lie flat on the cutting surface.

Sewing scissors have one pointed and one rounded tip for clipping threads and clipping seam allowances.

Pinking shears and pinking rotary cutters are used to finish seams. They cut fabric in a zigzag pattern instead of a straight line. In addition to your fabric, you will need many other items known as sewing supplies. These are supplies that become part of the garment. Thread, tapes and trims, elastics, beltings, and fasteners are all examples of sewing supplies.

Threadis a long strand of twisted fibers. When you buy thread, pull a length from the spool and examine it for evenness. Pull it to test its strength and stretch ability. Buy a thread type similar to your fabric. Use natural threads with natural fabrics.

Tapes and trimsare long strips of woven, knitted, braided or lace fabric. Some stretch, and some do not. Some are only for decoration, and others are purely functional. You should choose a firmly woven tape, ribbon, or cording if its job is to prevent stretching. Choose a stretchable braid, lace, or ribbing if it has to stretch as the clothing is worn.

Elasticcan be a single yarn or a woven or braided strip of fabric that stretches when pulled. Elastic comes in many widths. It is also made with different gripping power for different uses.

Belting and waistband stiffeners. Belting is a stiff band that can be covered with fabric to make a belt. There are also special waistband stiffeners. There are materials used to stiffen the waistband area of tailored pants.

Fusibles. This is a new category of sewing supplies. Fusibles are ironed into place. You can iron on patches, decorations, zippers, and hem tape. The fusible material on these items softens when it is heated. When it is soft it adheres to another fabric.

Fastenersclose garments. Zippers, snaps, buttons, hooks and eyes, buckles, and nylon tape are all sewing supplies that are fasteners.

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