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Файл:English for students of graphic design. Учебное пособие
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4.3.4 Complete the columns with your ideas on the topic “Advantages and
disadvantages/difficulties which computer technology has in different types of
design”. In a group of three discuss the advantages and disadvantages.
Type of design Advantages Disadvantages and
difficulties
Costume design
Graphic design
Web design
Interior design
Fashion design
Industrial and
product design
Multimedia design
Sound design
4.3.5 Write an essay of 300 words on the topic “Computer Technology and
Design”. Use the ideas presented in Exercise 4.3.4.
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Unit 5 Costume History. Part I
Costume History. Part I
The origins of clothing falls into the category of what is now considered
regional or folk costume. Much of it can often be pinpointed to a country, a region,
or even a town because customs and traditions in any particular area were so
insulated from the rest of the world. As communication and transportation
technologies expanded over time, information and products would reach farther
and farther, and fashion cycles would speed up.
The first garments fashioned by man were made from the hides of animals.
Initially, worn over the shoulders with no way to secure them, these skins were
cumbersome and left parts of the body unprotected. The Paleolithic Age is
distinguished by evidence of the use of stone tools. From a fashion perspective, the
truly significant discovery of this period is the invention of the eyed needle.
Needles made of bone and wood allowed cut pieces of hides to be assembled to
conform to the body.
Felt and bark cloth were developed from animal and vegetable fibers,
respectively. Layers of these fibers were put through a matting process until they
bonded, producing a workable cloth. Eventually, people learned to spin these fibers
into thread. The threads were then woven into cloth, usually small rectangles that
were wrapped around the body like a sarong. Over time the skill and scale of
weaving advanced, yielding fabrics that inspired more elaborate draping schemes.
Roman culture saw draped garments as the mark of civilization and considered any
kind of fitted garment to be barbaric.
The evolution of these types of garments can be tracked from Egyptian
through to Roman culture. The Egyptians had the schenti, a man’s loincloth or kilt
in white linen, and the kalasiris, a women’s sheath dress. In Crete during the
Minoan Bronze Age, one of the first European civilizations, garments begin to be
cut to fit the body. Basic garments with minimal cutting and simple sewing were
the staple of wardrobes in ancient Greece. Both men and women wore the chiton, a
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tunic fastened at the shoulder by a fibula pin; women also wore a wider version of
the chiton called the Doric pelpos. In ancient Rome the tunic and the cloak were
central. Women wore a stola, an ankle-length garment with sleeves.
The Byzantine Period, roughly from the fifth to twelfth centuries,
incorporated both Greek and Roman concepts with a rich Asian opulence. The
influence of this mix continues to be found during the Middle Ages and
Renaissance. An important element of the look involved the concealment of body
shape, often achieved through layering.
As for European style clothing throughout the thirteenth century was very
simple and varied very little between men and women. A loose-fitting full-length
gown with fitted sleeves worn with a narrow belt and a sleeveless coat called the
cyclas was the norm.
The fourteenth century inaugurated the Renaissance and brought the first
major transition from simple draped shapes to fitted garments. Women of the time
wore an ankle- or floor-length chemise called a cotte, or kirtle. The fitted version
of the gown worn on top, called a cotehardie, often featured long hanging sleeves.
In Europe throughout this period, fashion began to change at an unprecedented
pace.
During the fifteenth century Europe experienced an abundant prosperity, the
growth of the middle classes, and the development of a skilled workforce. This
created an appetite for extravagances. Voluminous gowns called houppelandes
featured floor-length sleeves and were worn with doublets, high collars, and hose.
Headwear became more important and was trimmed with all manner of feathers
and jewels. Everything became more complex and varied by region.
The sixteenth century was characterized by an increased opulence in fashion,
most especially in England under Elizabeth I. Some of the atypical fashion details
included the lace Tudor ruff, a hoop skirt called a farthingale, and rich surface
ornamentation. In sharp contrast to the sloping narrow shoulders of the early
1500s, the Elizabethan court adopted shoulders that were high and wide with
narrow sleeves reflecting French and Spanish styles. The shoulders were further
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enhanced by padded and jeweled shoulder rolls and accentuated by deep V-shaped
waistlines. The V shape was mirrored by skirts that opened at the front to display
petticoats or heavily decorated foreparts.
Fashion of the seventeenth-century baroque reveals a strong Puritan
influence, evidenced in the natural, dark, somber colours and modest designs.
Excessive ornamentation was discarded in favor of simpler broad lace and linen
collars. Full slashed sleeves became very fashionable. Waistlines rose to create
shorter bodices that were worn with contrasting stomachers. The period also
witnessed the change from hose to breeches for men. A desire for uniformity
became evident with the popularity of matching ensembles that speak to the
contemporary suit. The French began to focus on becoming leaders in the
production of luxury products and fashionable clothing began to reflect the
demands of the season and comfort.
The eighteenth century saw fashion celebrated as culture. One popular
garment was the contouche, a loose robe with large back pleats. Fashion icon of
the day Madame de Pompadour popularized the lavish rococo style. At this point,
by mid-century, the women’s torso was encased in an inverted conical corset with
sleeves becoming bell- or trumpet-shaped, and the full-skirted silhouette widened
further. Hoop skirts worn in the 1730s and 1740s give way to panniers, or side
hoops. By 1790, although skirts remained full, the exaggerated form had
disappeared, and a fashion developed for the pouter-pigeon front, with many layers
of fabric pinned to a bodice.
Riding habits and men’s tailoring found their way into women’s fashion in
the second half of the century by way of the popular German traveling suit called a
Brunswick gown, a two-piece ensemble that featured a hooded jacket with split
sleeves and a matching petticoat; the caraco, a jacket-like bodice worn over a
petticoat and based on the dress of servants and country women; and the joseph, a
coatdress styled after the riding coat. The end of the century gave way to an
unconfined long silhouette categorized as directoire, empire or regency, with a
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high waistline located under the bust. Deriving its inspiration from the Greeks and
Romans, this neoclassical style took Europe into the early 1800s.
5.1 Vocabulary exercises
5.1.1 Transcribe and translate the following words and phrases from the text
above: origin, fall into, folk costume, customs and traditions, garment, shoulder,
cumbersome, distinguish, eyed needle, felt, bark, fiber, thread, sarong, fabric,
draping scheme, kilt, linen, loincloth, sew, chiton, tunic, ankle-length, sleeve,
loose, belt, coat, gown, extravagance, doublet, collar, hose, feather, lace, V-shaped,
ornamentation, breech, forepart, waist, bodice, uniformity, luxury, robe, pleat,
lavish, corset, silhouette, hooded, petticoat, bust.
5.1.2 Make up expressions with the words from Exercise 5.1.1.
5.1.3 Look through the text. Add words related to the topic “Human body
parts” to the word tree.
5.1.4 Find the words in the text which are related to the topic “Clothing”.
5.1.5 Find adjectives in the text that can be used with the words in Exercise
5.1.3.
5.1.6 Do the word-building task. Be careful, not all the words have multiple
forms.
Verb Noun Adjective
to invent
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to characterize
to celebrate
to popularize
to exaggerate
communication
inspiration
luxury
discovery
civilization
transition
decoration
significant
abundant
fashionable
5.1.7 Match a word or a phrase from the text with the definition:
1. lavish a. something that you buy although it costs a lot of
money, perhaps more than you can afford or than is
necessary;
2. loose b. a belief, custom or way of doing something that has
existed for a long time among a particular group of
people; a set of these beliefs or customs;
3. extravagance c. the part of a gun at the back where the bullets are
loaded;
4. luxury d. the state of being successful, especially in making
money;
5. hose e. not fitting closely;
6. breech f. a thing, fact or person that is found or learned about
for the first time;
7. custom g. a thing or an idea that has been invented;
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8. tradition h. large in amount, or impressive, and usually costing a
lot of money;
9. invention i. very complicated and detailed; carefully prepared and
organized;
10. discovery j. a thing that is expensive and pleasant but not
essential;
11. prosperity k. an accepted way of behaving or of doing things in a
society or a community;
12. elaborate l. trousers that fit tightly over the legs, worn by men in
the past.
5.1.8 Match a word from the text with the definition:
1. schenti a. a coatdress styled after the riding coat;
2. kalasiris b. a wider version of the chiton;
3. chiton c. a jacket-like bodice worn over a petticoat
and based on the dress of servants and
country women;
4. the Doric pelpos d. an ankle-length garment with sleeves;
5. stola e. a hoop skirt;
6. cyclas f. voluminous gowns featured floor-length
sleeves;
7. cotte (or kirtle) g. a sleeveless coat;
8. cotehardie h. an ankle- or floor-length chemise;
9. houppelandes i. a loose robe with large back pleats;
10. contouche j. a two-piece ensemble that featured a
hooded jacket with split sleeves and a
matching petticoat;
11. farthingale k. the fitted version of the gown worn on top;
12. Brunswick gown l. a women’s sheath dress;
13. caraco m. a man’s loincloth or kilt in white linen;
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14. joseph n. a tunic fastened at the shoulder by a fibula
pin.
5.1.9 Make up 9 sentences with the words and phrases from Exercise 5.1.1.
5.2 Grammar exercises
5.2.1 Identify the following verb forms, their tense and voice: falls into, can
be pinpointed, were insulated, expanded, would reach, is, saw, can be tracked,
begin to be cut, reveals, was characterized, give, had disappeared, is distinguished,
learned, inspired, were developed, speak.
5.2.2 Find all the examples of Participle II in the text. Underline and
translate them.
5.2.3 Open the brackets using Passive Voice and Participle II.
1. Riding habits and men’s tailoring found their way into women’s fashion
in the second half of the century by way of the popular German traveling suit (to
call) a Brunswick gown, a two-piece ensemble that featured a (hood) jacket with
split sleeves and a matching petticoat; the caraco, a jacket-like bodice (to wear)
over a petticoat and (to base) on the dress of servants and country women; and the
joseph, a coatdress (to style) after the riding coat.
2. The origins of clothing falls into the category of what now (to consider)
regional or folk costume.
3. The end of the century gave way to an (to unconfine) long silhouette (to
categorize) as directoire, empire or regency, with a high waistline (to locate) under
the bust.
4. At this point, by mid-century, the women’s torso (to encase) in an (to
invert) conical corset with sleeves becoming bell- or trumpet-shaped, and the fullskirted silhouette (to widen) further.
5. By 1790, although skirts remained full, the (to exaggerate) form had
disappeared, and a fashion developed for the pouter-pigeon front, with many layers
of fabric (to pin) to a bodice.
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6. Excessive ornamentation (to discard) in favor of simpler broad lace and
linen collars.
7. The shoulders further (to enhance) by (to pad) and (jewel) shoulder rolls
and (to accentuate) by deep V-shaped waistlines.
8. The sixteenth century (to characterize) by an (to increase) opulence in
fashion.
9. Felt and bark cloth (to develop) from animal and vegetable fibers which
(to put) through a matting process until they bonded.
10. Voluminous gowns (to call) houppelandes featured floor-length sleeves
and (to wear) with doublets, high collars, and hose.
11. A loose-fitting full-length gown with (to fit) sleeves (to wear) with a
narrow belt and a sleeveless coat (to call) the cyclas was the norm.
12. The first garments (to fashion) by man (to make) from the hides of
animals. Initially, (to wear) over the shoulders with no way to secure them, these
skins were cumbersome and left parts of the body (to unprotect).
13. Headwear became more important and (to trim) with all manner of
feathers and jewels.
14. Some of the atypical fashion details (to include) the lace Tudor ruff, a
hoop skirt (to call) a farthingale, and rich surface ornamentation.
15. Needles (to make) of bone and wood allowed cut pieces of hides (to
assemble) to conform to the body.
16. The fitted version of the gown (to wear) on top, (to call) a cotehardie,
often featured long hanging sleeves.
5.2.4 Insert necessary prepositions.
1. The Byzantine Period, roughly … the fifth … twelfth centuries,
incorporated both Greek and Roman concepts … a rich Asian opulence.
2. … ancient Greece … the Minoan Bronze Age, basic garments … minimal
cutting and simple sewing were the staple … wardrobes.
3. As … European style clothing … the thirteenth century was very simple
and varied very little … men and women.
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4. The first garments fashioned … man were made … the hides of animals.
5. Riding habits and men’s tailoring found their way … women’s fashion …
the second half of the century … way of the popular German traveling suit called a
Brunswick gown, a two-piece ensemble that featured a hooded jacket … split
sleeves and a matching petticoat; the caraco, a jacket-like bodice worn … a
petticoat and based … the dress of servants and country women; and the joseph, a
coatdress styled after the riding coat.
6. Initially, worn … the shoulders … no way to secure them, these skins
were cumbersome and left parts of the body unprotected.
7. Deriving its inspiration … the Greeks and Romans, this neoclassical style
took Europe … the early 1800s.
8. The origins of clothing falls … the category of what is now considered
regional or folk costume.
9. … 1790, although skirts remained full, the exaggerated form had
disappeared, and a fashion developed … the pouter-pigeon front, … many layers
of fabric pinned … a bodice.
10. The evolution of these types of garments can be tracked … Egyptian
through … Roman culture.
11. Much of it can often be pinpointed … a country, a region, or even a town
because customs and traditions … any particular area were so insulated … the rest
of the world.
12. The sixteenth century was characterized … an increased opulence …
fashion, most especially … England … Elizabeth I.
13. Both men and women wore the chiton, a tunic fastened … the shoulder
…a fibula pin.
14. … this point, … mid-century, the women’s torso was encased … an
inverted conical corset … sleeves becoming bell- or trumpet-shaped, and the fullskirted silhouette widened further.
5.2.5 Do the task using appropriate form of the word in brackets.
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