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Lower levels of BOD, COD and Nitrogen; their respective contents
in conformity with local and widely prevailing legislative norms.
Low level of chromium in (C)ETP sludge – the scope for land
application and/or composting.
Lower hazardous and/or unpleasant air emissions.
Appropriate occupational health and safety (OSH) standards – better
work conditions, fewer accidents.
Tanning industry is an important segment of UNIDO technical assistance in
promoting sustainable development. In late 90-ies a number of studies dealing
with various cleaner tanning methods, including the widely used paper The Scope
for decreasing pollution load in leather processing, were prepared to support
different forms of training activities (shop-floor demonstrations, pilot plants,
national and regional workshops etc).
In the meantime a lot of practical experience has been gathered, some
new tanning technologies developed and implemented and some new challenges
have also emerged. Since proper training is essential precondition for modern,
sustainable leather processing, it is felt that a single, comprehensive paper on
cleaner leather technologies, rounding up and updating earlier papers, could be of
great help in training and capacity building activities.
In addition to traditional cleaner technologies topics such as pollution
sources/loads, water management, hair-save liming, low- or ammonia-free
deliming, chrome management, low-organic solvents finishing, solid waste
management etc., this comprehensive study addresses virtually all issues relevant
for performance and successful tanning operations: tannery environmental
management systems (EMS/CSR), Restricted Substances Lists (RSL), energy
considerations, mechanical operations, Occupational Safety and Health at
workplace (OSH), Carbon Footprint (CF) and Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) which
are so often the subject of extensive debates in various international fora and
media.
Leather Goods
The leather-based industry especially leather products industry (footwear,
garment, leather goods) is highly fashion oriented. Moreover, articles made of
(genuine or simulated) leather are complementing clothing. Leather products
(shoes, garment, leather goods) is important export earner for many developing
countries. In many countries leather products export ranks within the first three
places in the total export. Especially the footwear industry‘s importance to the
national economies in developing countries is underlined by the fact that it is the
main contributor to the countries export and – being a labour intensive industry –
provides employment to the most vulnerable groups of the society (including a
large number of women) in towns and villages where other job opportunities are
very scarce. The most of the leather products and footwear industry is dominated
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by small- and medium-scale operations. These SMEs lack of design information,
product development knowledge, information and educated personnel for
applying up-to-date quality assurance techniques and productive technology. The
institutional background is weak in providing necessary services, support and
professional training needed for becoming competitive and thus remaining in
business (providing/maintaining working opportunities). UNIDO with other
institutions and organizations through tailor made technical assistance assisted to
up-grade and enhance leather products sector.
Today, most leather is made of cattle skin, but many exceptions exist.
Lamb and deerskin are used for soft leather in more expensive apparel. Deer and
elkskin are widely used in work gloves and indoor shoes. Pigskin is used in
apparel and on seats of saddles. Buffalo, goat, alligator, snake, ostrich, kangaroo,
ox, and yak skins may also be used for leather. Kangaroo leather is used to make
items that must be strong but flexible. It is the material most commonly used
in bullwhips. Some motorcyclists favor kangaroo leather for motorcycle
leathers because of its light weight and abrasion resistance. Kangaroo leather is
also used for falconry jesses, soccer footwear, and boxing speed bags. At different
times in history, leather made from more exotic skins has been considered
desirable. For this reason, certain species of snakes and crocodiles have been
hunted. Although originally raised for their feathers in the 19th
century, ostriches are now more popular for both meat and leather. Different
processes produce different finishes for many applications, i.e., upholstery,
footwear, automotive products, accessories, and clothing. Ostrich leather is
currently used by many major fashion houses such as Hermès, Prada, Gucci,
and Louis Vuitton. Ostrich leather has a characteristic "goose bump" look
because of the large follicles where the feathers grew.
In Thailand, stingray leather is used in wallets and belts. Sting ray leather is
tough and durable. The leather is often dyed black and covered with tiny round
bumps in the natural pattern of the back ridge of an animal. These bumps are then
usually dyed white to highlight the decoration. Stingray rawhide is also used as
grips on Chinese swords, Scottish basket hilted swords, and Japanese katanas.
Stingray leather is also used for high abrasion areas in motorcycle racing leathers
(especially in gloves, where its high abrasion resistance helps prevent wear
through in the event of an accident.)
Future Trends in the World Leather Products Industry
This survey prepared and presented during the 17th UNIDO Leather
Panel is a follow-up to Worldwide Study of the Leather and Leather Products
Industry, which was the outcome of an exhaustive survey carried out by UNIDO
in the 1970s. It is intended to assist the Organization in the formulation of future
assistance programmes and in detecting areas where further study of various
kinds may be useful. This report assesses the worldwide prospects of the leather
and leather products industry in the coming decade. It examines the major
underlying trends of recent years and how they are expected to evolve in the short
to medium term. In its attempt to provide a thorough picture of the leather sector,
the report covers its various aspects: the availability of raw material, the tanning
industry, and the manufacture of footwear and other leather products. The basic
intention is to help discern prevailing trends in global trade and to support efforts
to design an effective role for organizations in the industrial development arena.
The findings and forecasts published here are meant to be indicative rather than
definitive and to form a basis for further surveys and studies. The need to compile
this report arose out of the 16th session of the UNIDO Leather and Leather
Products Industry Panel held in Brazil in May 2007. The panel recommended that
UNIDO undertake a comprehensive study on the future development of the world
leather and leather products industry, a study that would cover demand,
technology, production, and trade. Consequently, the UNIDO study provides an
analysis of the contemporary demand for leather products (footwear, leather
goods, gloves, leather garments, sports goods, upholstery, etc.) vis-à-vis the
availability of resources (raw hides and skins, manufacturing capacities, skilled
labour, knowledge, support industries, and services). It also contains information
on other important aspects of the leather industry: trade statistics, the geographic
distribution of production, technology developments, physical infrastructure,
environmental conditions, and social aspects involved in the production of
leather.
Leather Production and Environment
In addition to the other environmental impacts of leather, the production
processes have a high environmental impact, most notably due to: the heavy use
of polluting chemicals in the tanning process; air pollution due to the
transformation process (hydrogen sulfide during dehairing and ammonia during
deliming, solvent vapours).
One tonne of hide or skin generally leads to the production of 20 to 80 m3
of turbid and foul-smelling wastewater, including chromium levels of 100–
400 mg/L, sulfide levels of 200–800 mg/L and high levels of fat and other solid
wastes, as well as notable pathogen contamination. Pesticides are also often added
for hide conservation during transport. With solid wastes representing up to 70%
of the wet weight of the original hides, the tanning process comes at a
considerable strain on water treatment installations.
Tanning is especially polluting in countries where environmental norms are
lax, such as in India - the world's 3d largest producer and exporter of leather. To
give an example of an efficient pollution prevention system, chromium loads per
produced tonne are generally abated from 8 kg to 1.5 kg. VOC emissions are
typically reduced from 30 kg/t to 2 kg/t in a properly managed facility. Very
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clearly, the process remains highly polluting all the same. A review of the total
pollution load decrease achievable according to the United Nations Industrial
Development Organization posts precise data on the abatement achievable
through industrially proven low-waste advanced methods, while noting that
« Even though the chrome pollution load can be decreased by 94% on introducing
advanced technologies, the minimum residual load 0.15 kg/t raw hide can still
cause difficulties when using landfills and composting sludge from wastewater
treatment on account of the regulations currently in force in some countries. »
In Kanpur, the self-proclaimed "Leather City of World" and a city of 3
million people on the banks of the river Ganges, pollution levels were so high
that, despite an industry crisis, the pollution control board has decided to seal 49
high-polluting tanneries out of 404 in July 2009. In 2003 for instance, the main
tannery's effluent disposal unit was dumping 22 tonnes of chromium-laden solid
waste per day in the open.
The higher cost associated to the treatment of effluents as compared to
untreated effluent discharging leads to environmental dumping to reduce costs.
For instance, in Croatia in 2001, proper pollution abatement cost 70-100 USD/t of
raw hides processed against 43 USD/t for irresponsible behaviour.
No general study seems to exist, but the current news is rife with
documented examples of untreated effluent discharge. In November 2009 for
instance, it was discovered that one of Uganda's main leather producing
companies directly dumped its waste water in a wetland adjacent to Lake
Victoria.
The leather making process is in general restricted to batch processing, but
if the surface coating sub-process is added then some continuous processing can
be included. The operation flow has to follow the preparatory → tanning →
crusting → surface coating sub-process order without deviation, but some of the
sub-processes can be omitted to make certain leathers (or partially
tanned/untanned products).
Cleaner production is an efficient method of preventing or minimizing
pollution caused by industrial activities. UNIDO continues to place an emphasis on
the introduction of cleaner leather processing technology in developing
countries.The primary task of all cleaner technologies is to reduce the amount
pollution emissions; and where possible change the nature of pollution emissions
to reduce the pressure and costs of end-of-pipe treatment. The expected results
primarily include:
Lower water consumption – better preservation of rapidly
diminishing water resources.
Lower total dissolved solids (TDS) content (including salinity) –
lower risk of affecting the usability of the receiving water bodies for irrigation and
livestock watering.
Avoidance of use in processing and/or presence in leather of
substances from the Restricted Substances Lists (RSL) promulgated by national or
regional legislation, leading (multinational) brands and/or ecolabel due to their
proven negative impact on human health and eco-systems.
Proportionally higher volume of solid wastes suitable for processing
into saleable by-products.
Lower levels of BOD, COD and Nitrogen; their respective contents
in conformity with local and widely prevailing legislative norms.
Low level of chromium in (C)ETP sludge – the scope for land
application and/or composting.
Lower hazardous and/or unpleasant air emissions.
Appropriate occupational health and safety (OSH) standards – better
work conditions, fewer accidents.
Tanning industry is an important segment of UNIDO technical assistance in
promoting sustainable development. In late 90-ies a number of studies dealing
with various cleaner tanning methods, including the widely used paper The Scope
for decreasing pollution load in leather processing, were prepared to support
different forms of training activities (shop-floor demonstrations, pilot plants,
national and regional workshops etc).
In the meantime a lot of practical experience has been gathered, some
new tanning technologies developed and implemented and some new challenges
have also emerged. Since proper training is essential precondition for modern,
sustainable leather processing, it is felt that a single, comprehensive paper on
cleaner leather technologies, rounding up and updating earlier papers, could be of
great help in training and capacity building activities.
In addition to traditional cleaner technologies topics such as pollution
sources/loads, water management, hair-save liming, low- or ammonia-free
deliming, chrome management, low-organic solvents finishing, solid waste
management etc., this comprehensive study addresses virtually all issues relevant
for performance and successful tanning operations: tannery environmental
management systems (EMS/CSR), Restricted Substances Lists (RSL), energy
considerations, mechanical operations, Occupational Safety and Health at
workplace (OSH), Carbon Footprint (CF) and Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) which
are so often the subject of extensive debates in various international fora and
media.
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ЗАКЛЮЧЕНИЕ
В соответствии с программными требованиями материал данного
учебного издания нацелен на изложение магистрам грамматического и
лексического материала, который необходим для развития у них
коммуникативной компетенции в области владения английским языком по
направлению 29 .04.01 «Технология изделий легкой промышленности»
профиль «Технология изделий из кожи».
Тексты каждого из уроков основаны на материалах, взятых из
современных аутентичных текстов англоязычной специализированной
литературы и интернет-сайтов. Цель упражнений, содержащиеся в нем,
позволяет закрепить изложенный грамматический материал, активизировать
разговорные навыки, а также ориентировали учащихся на самостоятельную
поисковую деятельность в названной предметной области, подготовку
докладов и презентаций, развивая у них навыки написания резюме,
аннотаций текстов, эссе, делового письма. Поэтому наряду с программным
материалом по английскому языку методическое пособие содержит
актуальную информацию по их специальности.
Таким образом, при успешном освоении изложенного материала
учащиеся должны быть подготовлены к практической работе, связанной с
использованием английского языка, в своей профессиональной сфере.
СПИСОК ИСПОЛЬЗОВАННЫХ ИСТОЧНИКОВ
1. Bienkiewicz K. Physical Chemistry of Leather Making. N.Y.: Robert E.
Krieger, 2012.
2. Heidemann, E. Fundamentals of Leather Manufacture. N.Y.: Eduard Roether,
2013.
3. McCrady E. Research on the Dressing and Preservation of Leather. L.: Abby
Press, 2012.
Интернет-ресурсы:
4. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shoemaking
5. https://britishfootwearassociation.co.uk/bfa-foundation
6. www.hoovers.com/industry-facts.footwear-man
СОДЕРЖАНИЕ
Введение ……………………………………………...……..........3
Lesson 1 …………………………………………………...............4
Lesson 2 ………………………………….………..……................7
Lesson 3 …………………………………..…................................15
Lesson 4 ………………………………..........................................18
Lesson 5 ……………………………..............................................22
Lesson 6 …………………………………......................................27
Lesson 7 ...........................................................................................31
Lesson 8 ...........................................................................................35
Lesson 9 …………………….……………….................................38
Lesson 10 …………………………………… .………..................43
Lesson 11..........................................................................................46
Lesson 12 .........................................................................................49
Lesson 13.......................................................…...............................52
Lesson 14 ………………………………….....................................55
Additional Reading ..........................................................................57
Заключение ………………………………………….………........86
Список использованных источников ……………..………..…...........86
Содержание ………………………………….........................................87
87
Вербин Анатолий Александрович
Кожа. Обувь. Кожгалантерея
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