Добавил:
ivanov666
Опубликованный материал нарушает ваши авторские права? Сообщите нам.
Вуз:
Предмет:
Файл:Кожа. Обувь. Кожгалантерея. Учебное пособие
.pdf
preferred instead of stitching. The most usual operations performed in
the fitting room are: stitch marking, skiving, splitting, doubling, seam
rubbing, cementing, eyeletting, heating, stitching.
In modern footwear factories practically all of these operations
can be implemented by machines. This is why a vast range of
machines are at the disposal of the footwear manufacturers. Whether
they are purchased or not depends upon the production costs
considerations.
Closing room
A modern closing room should be complete with the latest form
of work transporter. This is where the operations to complete the
various component parts of the upper and then to join them together to
form the complete upper are performed. That is why there is a variety
of high-speed sewing machines, similar to but heavier than their
domestic counterparts. There is also a variety of skiving, folding and
edging machines, perforating, eyeletting, wiring machines and many
others. The outcome of all these machines and operations is a finished
upper complete with all linings etc. ready for assembling on the last
together with the insole. This insole is cut out of leather or some type
or board substitute on presses by means of a shaped knife and moulded
to conform to the curvature of the last.
4. Answer these questions.
1. What is the cutting operation performed with?
2. What is a cutter expected to know to be efficient?
3. What should the cutter undertake to produce the least
possible change in leather?
4. Are there a lot of machines available for the cutter?
5. What is the latest type of them?
6. Is electronics employed in it?
7. What is necessary to use leather to the best advantage?
8. Can you imagine cutting operations performed without any
assistance of man?
9. What is fitting?
10. Is it a single operation?
11. Are they performed in succession?
12. Are they implemented manually or by machines?
13. What operations are performed in the closing room?
5. Retell the text according to this plan
1. The operations performed in the cutting room.
41
42
2. The machines usually installed in the cutting room.
3. The importance of skills possessed by the cutter.
4. The operations performed in the fitting Room.
5. The range of machines in the closing room.
6. Complete the following sentences
1. A number of patterns are used by the operator because …
2. The dies should be placed correctly on the leather, otherwise
…
3. The components of the upper are cut by hand if …
4. Several operations can be implemented simultaneously in
order to …
5. The operations performed in the fitting room are: …
6.
In order to … s
everal operations are implemented
simultaneously.
7. The production costs considerations are essential because of
…
8. The choice of materials used for the insole depends on …
7. Translate the following sentences
1. These lasts are required in considerable quantities to allow of
a considerable number of shoes being in production at one
and the same time.
2. They advocate buying new tanning equipment.
3. These hides serving as test samples was approved by the
manager.
4. On the operator‘s releasing the switch the low-pressure valve
was reloaded.
5. The heel will be attached by means of all nine pins or nails
being driven at one blow.
6. This method of tanning being the most efficient is still
debatable.
7. Our abandoning this outworn technology has never been
more important.
8. The latest machine in use is hydraulically operated and the
depth of cut is automatically controlled by the knife having
penetrated the leather, making electrical contact with a
special cutting pad, thus completing a circuit and activating
the electronically controlled reverse mechanism.
8. Make a short written summary of the text
LESSON 10
Предлог
Герундиальный
оборот
Подлежащее,
сказуемое и т.д.
Due to
being ill
John didn‘t come to the
University
Из-за
того, Джон болен
он не пришел в
университет
Подлежащее,
сказуемое и т.д.
Предлог
Герундиальный оборот
All of these papers have
been thrown into the trash
bin
without
having been carefully
examined.
Все эти бумаги были
выброшены в корзину
без
того что бы они
были внимательно
просмотрены
1. Study carefully the following.
Abridged gerund clause
Если левое от герундия существительное (в герундиальном
обороте) идентично существительному, стоящему в позиции
подлежащего, то это предгерундиальное имя опускается.
Проанализируйте образец сокращенного герундиального оборота
и его перевод.
On being asked he told the truth.
Because of being ill he cannot attend the lecture.
In addition to being a politician he is also a world-class economist.
Besides being given additional benefits they got an annual bonus.
После того как его спросили, он сказал правду.
Из-за того, что он болен, он не может посетить эту лекцию.
Кроме того, что он является политиком, он еще и экономист
мирового класса.
Помимо того, что им дали дополнительные привилегии, они
получили годовую премию.
Для большей наглядности конструкции и ее перевода можно
представить ее в виде таблицы
2. Translate the following sentences.
1. Due to being very costly this machine cannot be installed here.
43
44
2. After being carefully examined the hides were accepted.
3. Before being assembled the component parts underwent several
operations.
4. Due to being poorly skived the upper shows some imperfections.
5. This leather cannot be used in our production line without being
properly tested.
6. After being properly washed and sorted the hides will be
subjected to testing.
7. Due to being reinforced the shoe will certainly withstand the
stress of walking.
8. On being prepared the tanning solutions were transported to the
tanning room.
3. Read and translate the text.
MANUFACTURING PROCESSES (II)
Assembling the shoe upper
Once the upper and the linings are cut out, they are taken from
the clicker to the closer. Before being closed these parts need some
preparation. First of all, the closer marks the edges where the parts are
to be joined together. Then, marks should be made where the
decorations of the upper will be attached or made. An important part of
the preparation is the task of paring down the edges that will be
stitched together. This operation is termed skiving. If skiving is well
done, the joint will be perfect.
In performing assembling a number of reinforcements are added
to the upper. The purpose of these is to counter the stress and strain to
which the resultant shoe will be subjected. The reinforcements are
attached at various stages of the manufacturing process, including
assembling. They are usually stitched or glued into the shoe upper.
A wide array of machines is used in assembling, an insole tacking
machine being one of them. The insole is accurately located and tacked
to the last at a number of places. This operation is performed on an
insole tacking machine, which is a virtual centre of the whole
operation. There should be a tack delivery and tack driving mechanism
in this machine. Next comes the upper which is assembled together
with the stiffener which gives support to the heel, the upper being
positioned and usually tacked by hand at the heel end by a single tack
through the back strap into the insole. The following operation is
known as lasting, its purpose is to position and stretch the upper to
conform to the last.
4. Answer these questions.
1. What is assembling?
2. Is it a single operation?
3. Does it require preparation?
4. For what purpose is it done?
5. Is it implemented manually or by machines?
6. At what stage are the reinforcements to the upper added?
7. What is their purpose?
8. What means are used to attach the reinforcements?
9. What gives support to the heel?
10. What operation is called lasting?
5. Retell the text according to this plan
1. The operations performed in assembling the upper and their
purpose.
2. The most important among them.
3. The machines used to assemble the upper.
4. The ways of attaching the component parts together.
8. Complete the following sentences
1. The upper and the linings are taken to the closer when …
2. Before being closed the upper and the linings …
3. Paring down the edges of these parts is important because …
4. Reinforcements are added in order to …
5. Assembling is performed using …
6. There should be a delivery of different tacks because …
7. The purpose of lasting is to …
9. Make a short written summary of the text
10. Translate the following sentences.
1. Because of being used in large quantities a lot of lasts should be
available.
2. Due to being hydraulically operated the knife requires no effort
from the operator.
3. Because of our engineer‘s advocating buying new stitching
equipment we decided to test it.
4. Due to being necessary this type of lasts was immediately
ordered.
5. Due to this operation being electronically controlled the quality
of its operation is always perfect.
45
46
6. These hides serving as test samples was approved by the
manager.
7. Due to the sole laying machine being treadle operated it cannot
be called automatic.
8. On the operator‘s releasing the switch the low-pressure valve was
reloaded.
9. After being positioned on its place the heel will be attached by
means of nine pins or nails.
10.
This method of assembling being the most efficient is still
debatable.
11. Home task: Prepare a small report on the latest equipment for
footwear production you have seen.
LESSON 11
1. Read and translate the text.
MANUFACTURING PROCESSES (III)
The heel end of the shoe is moulded to the last. The upper is
wiped over and upwards in one operation on the heel seat lasting
machine and a similar operation is performed at the toe on the toe
lasting machine. The side lasting machine has a most intricate pincer
action, almost human, to collect the upper, stretch it over the last and
fix it by means of either tacks or staples according to the type of shoe
being made. Unlike the heel and toe lasting operations, the side lasting
is a step feed action, which is operator-guided and consequently calls
for a considerable degree of skill.
Due to the current trend being towards simpler and more direct
methods of shoe construction we see displacement of tacks by the use
of adhesives. This is well exemplified by the pull laster that on certain
types of shoe construction replaces the pulling over machine, the toe
lasting machine and reduces the side lasting to a minimum. This makes
the insole and the upper being pre-coated with cement which is
activated by the heated wiper plates.
The operations subsequent to lasting will depend on what sort of sole
the shoe is to receive. So from now on we will have to be rather more
specific and will first consider three methods of soling which have at
least a degree of similarity, namely: (1) injection moulding; (2)
vulcanizing; and (3) stucking-on.
As the term injection moulded suggests the sole and most
possibly the heel as well is injection moulded directly onto the shoe. In
other words, the shoe forms one side of the mould. In the case of the
vulcanized shoe, the basic conditions are similar in so far as the shoe
forms one side of the mould but the raw rubber, etc. are placed in the
mould before closing it and then heat and pressure produce a moulded
rubber sole intimately attached to the shoe. The stuck-on sole covers a
wide range of soling materials from leather and various types of
synthetic soling to a complete pre-moulded sole unit. But before any of
these preformed soles can be attached to the shoe a number of
operations have to be performed. The periphery of the sole will have to
be coated with cement, and that portion of the upper which was lasted
over the underside of the shoe will need roughing to remove the 'grain'
and to provide a bond for the cement which is then applied. This
roughing operation was, up to quite recently, performed by hand, that
is the operator held the shoe up to a rotating wire brush. In this way the
quality of the operation depended on his judgment and skill.
Development is proceeding at present, and an automatic roughing
machine has been introduced to perform this operation.
2. Answer these questions.
1. What is the way the heel is moulded to the last?
2. Is this similar to the operation performed at the toe?
3. What machine is used to collect and stretch the upper over the
last?
4. What is the today‘s trend in the methods of shoe construction?
5. What does this lead to?
6. What follows lasting?
7. Is there only one way of soling?
8. What is the number of them?
9. What is the difference between them?
10. At what stage of manufacturing does roughing come in?
3. Retell the text according to this plan
1. Lasting different footwear parts.
2. The operation which follows lasting.
3. Different types of sole and their attachment.
4. New trends in shoe construction and their implication for the operations
used.
47
48
4. Complete the following sentences
1. The seat lasting machine is used for …
2. The operations subsequent to lasting depend on …
3. The number of
methods of soling is …
4. The term injection moulding suggests that the sole …
5. If the sole is cemented its periphery will need …
6. Then it is coated with cement and …
7. Until recently roughing was performed by …
8. Hand roughing cannot secure good quality of the operation
because …
9. Nowadays … is used.
5. Make a short written summary of the text
6. Translate the following sentences.
1. This method having some advantages is disputed by a number of
specialists.
2. This measure will hamper us in achieving our goals.
3. We came close to fulfilling our production plan.
4. A decisive factor in choosing between imported and domestic raw materials
is their price.
5. The many ways of acquiring this technology will be examined later.
6. By distinguishing between our short-term and long-term objectives we can
improve our economic situation.
7. More and more problems are generated by our falling behind in
the cutting technique.
8. By not fully employing our labour force we are forsaking an additional
flow of consumer goods.
9. Before looking at the potential of our policy we need a clear notion of what
we mean by ‗profitable production rate‘.
10. There are reasons for believing that the announced goal is neither possible
nor desirable.
11. Try explaining to the workers that their management is in the same position.
12. Computer-aided technology has been introduced here due to our
having to upgrade our output.
13. His being the most influential expert in the field of tanning is not
challenged.
14. He maintains that there is no way of our catching up with our
competitors.
15. Due to being slow in introducing new technology we are falling
behind in the level of quality of our shoes.
16. There are various reasons for our installing industrial robots in our
cutting room.
17. The reasons for these robots having been installed here are not
clear.
18. The new technology will lead to our having to reduce the number
of employees.
19. This will result in our being unable to upgrade our productive
capabilities.
7. Home task: Prepare a small report on the latest techniques in footwear
production.
LESSON 12
1. Read and translate the text.
MANUFACTURING GLOVES
Footwear is not the only purpose for which leather is used. There
are a lot of other goods produced of leather, and there are also some
fields of human artistic activity where leather is considered as an
extremely appropriate basic material. The first item to be mentioned in
this respect are gloves.
A glove is a garment covering the whole hand. Gloves
have separate sheaths or openings for each finger and the thumb. If there is an
opening but no (or a short) covering sheath for each finger they are
called fingerless gloves. Fingerless gloves are useful where dexterity is required
that gloves would restrict. Gloves which cover the entire hand or fist but do not
have separate finger openings or sheaths are called mittens. Mittens are warmer
than gloves made of the same material because fingers maintain their warmth
better when they are in contact with each other. Reduced surface area
reduces heat loss.
Gloves are by no means minor accessories of dress. Whether
worn or carried, they form one of the finishing touches of the elegantly
attired man or woman. In Britain, common use of gloves was a
comparatively late development in clothing. It is thought that extended
sleeves of early Norman times were designed, in part at least, as
protection for hands. It was, however, not till the 16th century that
Queen Elisabeth set the fashion for wearing gloves richly embroided
and jeweled. France was to be the largest world maker of leather
gloves.
49
50
The manufacture of well-fitting gloves requires leather with
special properties and a high degree of skill in cutting-out in order that
gloves can stretch with the movement of the hand and yet fit well. The
skill of the glove cutter lies in getting the stretch in each direction
before the final cutting to shape takes place. The stages in glove
cutting are as follows: damping the leather, then stretching it suitably,
next cutting out the trank, and finally cutting out the actual shapes
from the trank, either by hand by means of a template and knife, or
with a die. The method employed for the best gloves is known as table
cutting, each trank being considered separately in the final cutting.
Numerous designers in many countries work hard to create a fashion glove
lines with beautiful designs. With decades-long experience highly trained
glove makers, and state-of-the-art facilities they create what you see in your
everyday life and what you buy.
Gloves are also used as protective covering for all kinds of
purposes – gardening, sport, industrial purposes, their importance
being very great and probably growing. They
can protect and comfort
hands against cold or heat, damage by friction, abrasion or chemicals, and
disease. Or in turn, to provide a guard for what a bare hand should not
touch. Latex or vinyl disposable gloves are often worn by health care
professionals as hygiene and contamination protection measures. Police
officers often wear them to work in crime scenes to prevent
destroying evidence in the scene.
2. Answer these questions.
1. Is leather used solely for footwear?
2. What else can be produced from it?
3. What are the most common articles produced from leather
today?
4. What properties should leather possess in order to be suitable
for gloves?
5. Is cutting gloves made manually or by machines?
6. Is ladies‘ gloves production a specialized trade?
7. What are the gloves intended for?
8. Do men wear gloves?
9. In what occasions do they wear them?
10. Is any artistic work involved in their manufacture?
11. What skills are required in this field of human activity?
3. Retell the text according to this plan
1. Gloves as a separate leather article.
2. The types of gloves.
Соседние файлы в предмете [НЕСОРТИРОВАННОЕ]