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Файл:Кожа. Обувь. Кожгалантерея. Учебное пособие
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5. Hides from different animals are transformed into leather because …
6. To obtain hardwearing leather we …
7. Today synthetic materials are used in footwear production because …
9. Make a short written summary of the text
10. Translate the following sentences.
1. To make leather soft and supple man used animal oils and fats.
2. Man employed vegetable dyes in order to make leather more attractive.
3. To obtain good results in the technique of tanning a lot of time had to
pass.
4. The tanning agents to be used today are predominantly of chemical origin.
5. Nomadic peoples were the first to become experts in tanning and
ornamentation of leather.
6. They prepared the solutions to be used for tanning.
7. They are the most appropriate company to provide us with high-quality
leather.
8. The question to be solved is whether we are able to reduce waste in our
cutting room or not.
9. To qualify for high-quality shoe manufactures we have to use leather of
better quality.
10. To avoid excessive waste in our cutting room we have to upgrade skills of
our cutters.
11. Home task: Prepare a small report on the latest trends in the materials
being used nowadays in the footwear production.
LESSON 7
1. Study carefully the following.
Независимый оборот с причастием 1
Внимательно изучите образцы перевода независимых оборотов с
причастием 1 и переведите предложения
The weather being fine, we‘ll go to the country.
The weather being fine, we went to the country.
There are two ways of solving this problem, this one being the simplest.
Так как погода хорошая (является хорошей), мы поедем за город.
Так как погода была хорошей, мы поехали за город.
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Есть несколько способов решить эту проблему, причем этот является
самым простым.
2. Translate the following sentences.
1. We will have to assess the quality of our raw material, our laboratory being
appropriate for this purpose.
2. Our laboratory being equipped with modern instruments, reliable results can be
obtained from its tests.
3. Reliable testing being absolutely necessary, we have to invite skilled personnel.
4. Good quality leather having been acquired, high quality footwear can be
produced from it.
5. Last year we managed to increase our output, major part of it being of high
quality.
6. The quality of leather being high, expensive shoes will be made from it.
7. Mechanization of footwear manufacture began in the 19th century, Brunei
was the first to begin it.
8. A lot of footwear manufacturing machines have been invented since then,
the method of their operation being practically the same.
9. The price for imported leather rising, we decided to use leather of
domestic origin.
10. The quality of these two pairs of shoes being equal, I prefer to buy the
cheaper one.
3. Read and translate the text.
CONSTRUCTION OF A SHOE
Before considering this process it will be appropriate to have some
general idea of the component parts of a shoe, but as there are so many variants
of the latter only a few will be discussed.
The upper is the entire shoe above the treading surface. It is divided
into quarters, which go around the front of the shoe, the part over the instep
being called the vamp. The backs of the upper that go around the heel are
called counters. Inside of the shoe we find the lining and the insole, both
being produced either of leather or plastic. The welt can be considered as the
backbone of the shoe, because it holds the upper and sole firmly together and
in this way serves as a strong walking base and preserves the shoe from
deformation.
The bottom is the part of the shoe sole, from toe to heel breast, usually
in contact with the treading surface. The sole of a shoe is usually a
combination of a number of layers. The insole is one of them, this layer lying
on the inside of the shoe, directly beneath the foot. There are two main types
of insole, one of them being flat and the other being ribbed. Flat insoles are
known to be used in cement-constructed shoes where the outsole is cemented
to the shoe upper. Ribbed insoles are usually intended for welt-constructed
shoes where the upper is stitched to the outsole through the ribbed insole. The
outsole is the outermost layer of the sole. The outsole being subject to direct
contact with walking surface, it may be made thicker than the other layers.
The first process of shoemaking is cutting the upper material. The upper
materials used today are either natural or man-made. Expensive shoes are
known to be made from natural leathers, while man-made materials are
mainly intended for cheaper articles. Supple and soft leathers are employed
for uppers, hard-wearing leathers are used for soles.
Having been cut, all of these component parts are to be assembled, that
is they are to be lasted. Lasting is known to be the stage of the manufacturing
process when the fitted upper takes the final shape of the shoe. To be
performed the operation requires a last. A last is a block of wood or metal
shaped like a foot, used to assemble all pieces of the upper.
Lasting is a series of shaping operations when the assembled upper and
lining components are to be combined together over the last and then fastened
to the insole. One can distinguish four different operations involved in the
lasting process: assembling and backpart lasting, toe and forepart lasting
(pulling over), and side lasting. A general idea is that an upper and insole are
assembled on the last; this principle applies to most methods of construction
except for minor details.
The shoemakers' last is still not only the symbol of his trade, but the very
foundation of the shoe, being model and everything which controls the size,
shape and largely the appearance of the finished shoe. These lasts are required
in considerable quantities not only to allow production of a considerable
number of shoes at one and the same time but also to cover the full range of
sizes and fittings needed.
4. Answer these questions.
1. What can be considered as the two main parts of a shoe?
2. Do they perform different functions?
3. Can they be still further divided into component parts?
4. What is considered as the backbone of the shoe?
5. What does the process of shoemaking begin with?
6. Is leather the only material used for shoes?
7. What materials are used for footwear today?
8. Are they numerous?
9. What follows cutting?
10. What is the shoemaker‘s symbol?
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5. Retell the text according to this plan
1. The main parts of the shoe.
2. The component parts of the upper.
3. The component parts of the bottom.
4. Assembling the upper.
5. Composition of the bottom.
6. The last as a symbol of the footwear trade.
7. The reason for this.
6. Complete the following sentences
12. The last is the symbol of the footwear trade because …
13. The welt holds the upper and sole firmly together, that is why it …
14. The bottom is usually made of hard-wearing leathers because it …
15. There are different types of insole due to …
16. When cut all of the component parts of the shoe are …
17. Lasting is the operation …
18. A lot of lasts are necessary for the production because …
19. Until the XX century wooden lasts were used because …
20. Nowadays the most widely used material is … because …
7. Make a short written summary of the text
8. Translate the following sentences.
1. The quality of leather being high, expensive shoes can be made
from it.
2. Mechanization of footwear manufacture began in the 19th century,
Brunei was the first to begin it.
3. A lot of footwear manufacturing machines have been invented since
then, the method of their operation being practically the same.
4. The prices for imported leather rising, we decided to use leather of
domestic origin.
5. The quality of these two pairs of shoes being equal, I prefer to buy
the cheaper one.
6. Having been subjected to a closer examination the shoe has not
stood the test of further trials.
7. The grade between the sizes is taken in two ways, this calling for
two independent pantograph control mechanisms.
8. The production being of a fashion shoe, the component parts are
sometimes cut manually.
9. The resultant shoe being rather expensive, highly skilled employees
perform the cutting of its upper.
10. All of the component parts having been cut, we have to take them to
the assembly room.
11. Lasting being one of the numerous operation in shoemaking, it is
precisely one when the upper takes the final shape.
12. Lasts are made from different materials, plastics being the most
convenient material for them.
13. The raw materials used for the production of shoes are either natural
or synthetic, the former being intended for expensive shoes.
14. The sole is a combination of different layers, the first one being the
insole.
15. The welt being the backbone of the shoe, it should be strong enough
to keep it from deformation.
9. Home task: Prepare a small report on the latest trends in shoe design.
LESSON 8
Г Е Р У Н Д И Й
1. Study carefully the following.
Элементарный герундий
Если непосредственно перед герундием нет имени существительного
или местоимения, то его следует переводить на русский язык
соответствующим отглагольным существительным.
Pattern
Smoking is harmful.
Walking in the country will do you good.
You will get there more rapidly by taking this bus.
Курение вредно.
Прогулки (―гуляние‖) в загородной местности принесут вам
пользу.
Вы доберетесь туда быстрее, сев на этот автобус (―с помощью
поездки‖ на этом автобусе)
Некоторые предлоги имеют несколько иное значение, когда
они стоят перед герундием (in =
при
, on =
после
)
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2. Translate the following sentences.
1. Roughing and finishing are to be performed separately.
2. In seeking to satisfy their desire for style they buy extravagant
shoes.
3. On tanning the hides will be taken to finishing.
4. The various pieces were formed into uppers by means of
stitching them together.
5. On shaping over the last the upper will be attached to the
insole.
6. Tanning these hides is no simple matter.
7. By using special equipment the plastic sole can be moulded
direct onto the shoe bottom.
8. Will stitching give us satisfactory results?
9. Injection moulding direct on the upper is growing for almost
all types of shoes.
10. Cutting out this piece is done automatically.
3. Read and translate the text.
FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURE
Prior to 1800 shoemaking machinery was entirely nonexistent and the
first serious attempt at mechanization was that of Brunei who, in 1810,
developed a number of machines for making riveted boots for the troops in the
French campaign.
From time to time other inventors introduced machines, generally for
sewing the component parts of uppers together, but it was not until Blake, in
1858, invented the sole sewing machine that the mechanization of the industry
made any real progress.
Further impetus to the mechanization of the industry was given in 1872
when Charles Goodyear, whose name is perpetuated in the Goodyear welted
shoe, invented a series of machines for the production of shoes on the 'handsewn principle'.
Today boots and shoes are manufactured in highly mechanized modern
factories but even today the operations performed by machine are still very
largely the same as were performed by hand but, of course, at a vastly faster
rate. Stitches still have to be made one at a time but the sole of a shoe will be
attached by machines producing 1000 stitches per minute, whereas attaching
heels by pins or nails being driven at one blow is performed by a modern
machine.
Apart from the manufacturing factors affecting footwear production,
there is fashion determinant conditioning this process. The plant designers
follow fashion through regular traveling, relations with customers, and
attendance at dress collections. By doing so they determine the main changes. The
stylist then prepares the models on the basis of the former's guidance. Many
specialists pointed out that shoe fashion is strongly influenced by changes in
clothes fashion, both as regards cut, shape and colours, and they were unanimous
that style is an essential ingredient for the success of a shoe. In fact, when asked
what value can be placed, materials being equal, on a well styled shoe against a
badly styled one, all the specialists replied, pointing out that a shoe without good
style is worth nothing, not even the cost of the materials employed. Therefore,
college design course must have as its object the aim to make students fluent in
the translation of their creative ideas into shoes and that these shoes must be
capable of fitting the consumer.
4. Answer these questions.
1. When was the first attempt to mechanize footwear production made?
2. Who made this attempt?
3. What happened in 1872?
4. What machine is the most essential in foot manufacture?
5. At what speed is stitching performed?
6. What factors affect shoe manufacture?
7. Is shoe design important?
8. What should be taken in consideration by shoe designer?
9. What country is the most renowned for its shoe designers?
10. Is quality of leather important for shoe quality?
5. Retell the text according to this plan
1. The first attempts to mechanize the footwear manufacture.
2. The main changes in the production operations.
3. The factors affecting the end product.
4. The importance of the design.
5. The implications for the college design course.
6. Complete the following sentences
1. The first attempt at mechanization of footwear was undertaken by Brunei
who…
2. It was a reaction to the French campaign which …
3. Charles Goodyear was the second person to be associated with …
4. Mechanization increased the production volumes, but the fundamental
processes …
5. The success
of a shoe is conditioned by a number of …
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6. They are … because …
7. The shoe designers should follow fashion through …
8. The students taking a college design course should …
7. Make a short written summary of the text
8. Translate the following sentences.
1. Tanning these hides is no simple matter.
2. By using special equipment the plastic sole can be moulded
direct onto the shoe bottom.
3. Will stitching produce us the desired results?
4. Injection moulding direct on the upper is growing for almost
all types of shoes.
5. Cutting out this piece is done automatically.
6. Manufacturing fashion shoes requires skilled labour force.
7. A number of machines are used in cutting this kind of leather.
8. On cutting the component parts are taken to the closing room.
9. The operators of the tanning room should be extremely careful
in handling these hides.
10. These are the tanning agents requiring careful handling.
11. Examining these hides with such an old microscope may
prove somewhat difficult.
12. We can improve the productivity of our cutting room by
reducing the stoppage time of the equipment.
13. We aim at increasing our sales.
14. There is no way of performing this complicated operation.
15. Prior to subjecting these hides to testing we must sort them.
9. Home task: Prepare a small report on the latest trends in footwear
production.
LESSON 9
1. Study carefully the following.
Герундиальный оборот
Если слева от герундия имеется имя существительное (стоящее в
притяжательном падеже, если оно указывает на лицо, т.е.
человека) или притяжательное местоимение, то герундий
образует герундиальный оборот, который переводится
придаточным предложением с союзом
то, что
или выражением
тот факт, что.
Образец
I
know nothing of John‘s being ill.
John‘s being ill prompted us to change our plans.
We failed to finish our work because of John‘s being ill.
We had no problems in our trip to London because of John‘s speaking
fluent English.
Я ничего не знаю о том, что Джон болен.
То, что Джон болен, заставило нас изменить наши планы.
Мы не смогли закончить нашу работу из-за того, что Джон болен.
У нас не было проблем в нашей поездке в Лондон из-за того, что
Джон говорит свободно на английском языке.
Следующий образец позволит Вам понять различия в
переводе всех четырех форм герундия.
His teaching English at our school is good news for me.
My good English is the result of his having taught English at our
school.
His being taught English is news for us.
He speaks poor English in spite of his having been taught English for
two years.
Тот факт, что он преподает английский в нашей школе, хорошая
новость для меня.
Мой хороший английский — это результат того, что он
преподавал английский в нашей школе.
То, что ему преподают английский, — новость для нас.
Он плохо говорит по-английски, несмотря на то, что ему
преподавали английский в течение двух лет.
2. Translate the following sentences.
1. Leather being the best material for shoes is generally
accepted.
2. Nobody disputes the leather being the best material for shoes.
3. Hides and skins are converted into leather by means of their
being tanned and finished.
4. The chapter tells us of there being several ways of assembling
these pieces.
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5. This could lead to our damaging the hides.
6. How successful we will be will depend on our being able to
use the new equipment efficiently.
7. Our management did not object to our attending this year
footwear show.
8. In this situation, the possibility of our obtaining poor results of
tanning is great.
9. There is no excuse for our producing so much waste.
10. I still doubt of the price for this leather being low enough for
us.
11. This leather being of high quality is no guarantee for the
resulting shoes being excellent.
12. These lasts are required in considerable quantities because of
a considerable number of shoes being in production at one and
the same time.
13. The welt holds the upper and sole firmly together and in this
way it is a guarantee of the shoe retaining its shape.
3. Read and translate the text.
MANUFACTURING PROCESSES
Cutting room
In the cutting room the uppers are usually cut by laying the die on
the leather, and cutting each peace separately. An experienced operator
being aware of the characteristics of the leather being used is a
prerequisite for successful outcome. A number of patterns are available
for the operator to guide him in cutting operations. The dies should be
so placed as to produce the least possible changes in the leather when it
is stretched on the last. The cutter must also be aware of the
importance of colour differences in different leathers, avoiding in this
way mismatch. If the production is of a fashion shoe then the various
components of the upper are cut by hand. This being a highly skilled
operation is of common knowledge. That is why only highly
experienced employees are allowed to this operation.
Fitting Room
Fitting is joining together of the various parts of the shoe upper
and lining. In the fitting room, the various parts of the upper are to be
prepared and stitched together. The number of the operations involved
here are numerous. We know of their number varying from a few to as
many as several dozens. Several operations being implemented
simultaneously is also a possibility, especially if heat welding is
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