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Файл:Кожа. Обувь. Кожгалантерея. Учебное пособие
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3. The skills required for their production.
4. The different purposes of wearing gloves.
5. The implication for the materials needed for their production.
4. Complete the following sentences
1. Apart from footwear leather is also used for …
2. Gloves are
worn or carried not only for protection but …
3. Queen Elisabeth of Britain is associated with the …
4. A
high degree of skills is necessary in order to …
5. There are stages in glove cutting. They are: …
6. B
eautiful designs are necessary to create …
7. To produce high quality gloves state-of-the-art equipment …
8. As protective covering gloves are used in …
5. Make a short written summary of the text
6. Translate the following sentences.
1.
Manufacturing well-fitting gloves requires leather with
special properties.
2. Manufacturing well-fitting gloves they could increase their
sales.
3. Having become a specialized trade ladies‘ gloves manufacture
employs highly specialized workers.
4. There are many stages in glove cutting, damping the leather
being the first one.
5. Ladies‘ gloves being one of the most important accessories,
their importance is growing.
6. Ladies‘ gloves manufacture growing, good designs are
necessary for their production.
7. There are a lot of goods manufactured from leather, footwear
being the most important item.
8. Queen Elisabeth of Britain having set the fashion for wearing
gloves is disputed by some historians.
9. Queen Elisabeth of Britain having set the fashion for wearing
gloves, their production began to expand.
10. A lot of machines and tools are used for cutting gloves,
templates and knives being the most traditional of them.
11. The speed of this machine being very high, its introduction
can increase our output.
12. Our being short of financial resources, new production line
can not be acquired until next year.
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13. This brand of gloves having become very popular, we can
expand their production.
6. Home task: Prepare a small report on the latest trends in manufacturing
gloves.
LESSON 13
HANDBAG PRODUCTION
The term purse originally referred to a small bag for holding coins. In
British English, it is still used to refer to a small coin bag. A handbag is a
larger accessory that holds objects beyond currency, such as a woman's
personal items. American English typically uses the terms purse and handbag
interchangeably.
The oldest known handbag dates back more than 5000 years, and it was a
pouch worn by a man. In early Modern Europe, when women's fashions moved in
the direction of using small ornamental purses—which evolved into handbags—
men's fashions were moving in another direction. Men's trousers replaced
men's breeches during the course of the 18th and 19th centuries, and pockets were
incorporated in the loose, heavy material. This enabled men to continue carrying
coins, and then paper currency, in small leather wallets. Men's pockets were
plentiful in 19th century and 20th century trousers and coats to carry an everincreasing number of possessions, such as pipes, matches, pocketknives. Women,
on the other hand, have shown a strong demand for larger handbags that carry
more items for everyday use.
The modern handbags came about in England during the Industrial
Revolution, in part due to the increase in travel by railway. In 1841 the
Doncaster industrialist and confectionery entrepreneur Samuel Parkinson ordered
a set of travelling cases and trunks and insisted on a travelling case or bag for his
wife's particulars after noticing that her purse was too small and made from
material that would not withstand the journey. He stipulated that he wanted
various handbags for his wife, varying in size for different occasions and asked
that they be made from the same leather that was being used for his cases and
trunks to distinguish them from the then-familiar travelers' cloth bags used by
members of the popular classes. H. J. Cave (London) obliged and produced the
first modern set of luxury handbags, as we would recognize them today, including
a clutch and a tote (named as 'ladies travelling case'). These are now on display in
the Museum of Bags and Purses in Amsterdam. H. J. Cave did continue to sell
and advertise the handbags, but many critics said that women did not need them,
and that bags of such size and heavy material would 'break the backs of ladies.' H.
J. Cave ceased to promote the bags after 1865, concentrating on trunks instead,
although they continued to make the odd handbag for royalty, celebrities or to
celebrate special occasions, the Queen's 2012 Diamond Jubilee being the most
recent. However, H.J. Cave resumed handbag production in 2010.
Ladies‘ handbag is the article whose manufacture has long
become a modern specialized trade. It is highly sectionalized, many
types of sewing machines being used in their manufacture, including
special models for fancy stitching. Drawstring or snaps, buckles, or
other hardware can also fasten the bag. Straps of leather, rope, or chain
may be stitched or riveted in place.
2. Answer these questions.
1. When did the first handbag come about?
2. Who wore it?
3. When did it become a specialized trade?
4. What was the reason for it?
5. Is ladies‘ handbag production a specialized trade?
6. What are the ladies‘ handbags intended for?
7. Are there special hand bags for men?
8. Is any artistic work involved in their manufacture?
9. What is the country or company known for the production of
stylish handbags?
10. Can they be considered as art objects?
3. Retell the text according to this plan
1. The meaning of the term purse in British English and American
English.
2. The oldest historically recorded handbag.
3. The Industrial Revolution and its impact on the handbag trade.
4. The purpose of the ladies‘ handbags.
4. Complete the following sentences
1. The accessory that holds a woman's personal items is called …
2. As men's trousers and coats have plentiful pockets …
3. As the Industrial Revolution made traveling by railway more popular …
4. H. J. Cave from London was the fist to begin …
5. Different hardware can be incorporated into the ladies‘ handbags because …
6. In 2010, H. J. Cave resumed …
7. LuisVuitton is …
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5. Translate the following sentences
1. We are required to look for new ways to reduce the cost of production.
2. He is the most prominent expert in testing technique to deliver a lecture at the
conference.
3. In our city, there is no specialist to assess the quality of this equipment.
4. We have to determine the price for the shoes to be produced from this raw
material.
5. They are the most appropriate company to provide the necessary raw material.
6. To understand true consequences of this measure we have to assess well these
data.
7. We feel pressure for a new equipment to be purchased.
8. This is not an idea to set pulse racing of our CEO.
9. The problem to be solved is whether we are able to reduce the price of our
footwear.
10. The conference to be hosted by them is to be held next September.
11. He was one of the first specialists to propose plastics to be used in footwear
production.
12. To keep our CEO informed, we have to prepare new estimates of our
productive capacities.
13. The dramatic increase in plastics in the footwear production is known to have
begun in the 1960s.
14. This pattern is considered to be the most striking example of a well designed
shoe.
15. Experts report high inflation to be the most immediate cause of low demand.
16. To qualify for an increase in wages, you must increase your productivity.
17. To avoid damages in hides we have to keep our equipment well maintained.
18. We are compelled to adopt new strategy to retain stability of our company.
19. Our management seems to have accustomed to the low demand for our
footwear.
20. The administration requires our laboratory to upgrade the quality of our
equipment.
21. The problems to be discussed at the upcoming conference are very interesting
for our scientific community.
6. Make a short written summary of the text
7. Home task: Prepare a small report on the latest techniques of handbag
production
LESSON 14
1. Read and translate the text
ARTISTIC LEATHERWORK
Leather crafting or simply leathercraft is the practice of making leather into
craft objects or works of art, using shaping techniques, coloring techniques or
both.
The contemporary leather craftsman may use leather to make
pure art objects, especially sculpture. Layers of leather laminated into a
solid block are then carved. A leather skin covers a skeletal core or is
cemented in sections to form a hollow geometrical solid. Thick leather
is wetted and bent or molded into sculptural forms. In addition, leather
is woven with other materials on looms, built into collages and reliefs,
and tied into macramé-knotted three-dimensional forms. It is also used
as a painting surface or as a negative, from which sandal soles or other
shapes have been decoratively punched or cut.
The leather craftsman may also be an artist who embellishes his
work with any of a variety of techniques. He can work the surface of
leather that has been dampened for greater flexibility. For example, he
can stamp a clearly depressed image on it with stamping tools, cold or
hot, like cattle brands. He can incise designs with pointed instruments
or carve away parts of the surface with gouges to build a relief design.
He can tool (press) the surface with smooth instruments or emboss it
from the back to create relief, texture, and shading. He can also paint,
gild, or embroider leather, or decorate it with appliquéed leather pieces
or metal plaques or with studs, rivets, or nails, or trim it with knotting,
fringe, or braid.
Pieces of leather made into articles by means of these techniques can
represent unique art objects or may be used as decorative elements for handbags
or footwear produced for special occasions as, for example, presents or gifts for
celebrities or VIPs. In these cases, they represent useful things and, at the same
time, genuine works of art. It goes without saying, that they are not massproduced.
2. Answer the questions
1. Is leather used to make pure art objects?
2. What techniques are employed for this purpose?
3. What skills are required in this field of human activity?
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4. Are they mass-produced?
5. Where can one see them?
6. Can these art objects be incorporated in handbags or
footwear?
7. What are the results of these techniques?
8. Have you seen footwear with such decorative elements?
9. For what occasions are they made?
10. Are they within the reach of ordinary consumers?
3. Retell the text according to this plan
1. Leather as a basic material for articles outside footwear, gloves
and handbags.
2. The techniques used to transform leather into art works.
3. The purpose of making leathercraft articles.
4. Incorporation of leathercraft articles into consumer goods.
4. Complete the following sentences
1. Leathercraft is the practice of …
2. The techniques used in modern leathercraft include …
3. Using these techniques the leather craftsman can produce …
4. The choice of leather for these articles depends on …
5. Leathercraft articles are sometimes incorporated into …
6. Leathercraft articles are not mass produced because …
5. Translate the following sentences
1. Having decided to upgrade production they acquired new equipment.
2. Observing the change in the production curve you can notice a slight
improvement.
3. Being among our priorities new equipment is being tested.
4. Having raised prices for our footwear we failed to upgrade its quality.
5. Altering the raw material we managed to increase our sales.
6. Having examined these proposals we managed to choose the most convenient
for us.
7. Expanding the steady rate of raw materials this measure will certainly
increase our production.
8. Having been chosen to head our company, he was asked to answer a number
of questions from the employees.
9. Answering one of the questions he said that he did not consider himself a
revolutionary.
10. Having been thoroughly discussed the measure was submitted to our CEO.
11. The existing prices won‘t stimulate our output.
12. A rising price level will give only a temporary boost to our profits.
13. The spotlight at the moment is focused on how the management is handling
our economic situation.
14. A lot of goods are produced from leather, footwear being only one
of them.
6. Make a short written summary of the text
7. Finalizing the course: Presentation
ADDITIONAL READING
Leatherwork
Leatherwork consists of objects made of dressed animal skins.
Because the structure of leather is a vast random network of coil-like
molecules linked in fibrous strands, leather is one of the strongest
flexible sheet materials known. It resists tearing and puncture, yet it
can be stretched. As a porous substance, it can absorb moisture and
"breathe," and it has insulating qualities. Also, leather is easily worked.
It may, for example, be wrapped, rolled, molded, or folded. It may be
puckered, crinkled, pierced, sewn, embossed, tooled, stamped,
branded, carved, braided, knotted, glued, nailed, or woven. In addition,
it is abundantly available in endless variety all over the world.
In view of these advantages, it is readily seen why leather is
widely used for such things as clothing, shelter, upholstery, hangings,
harnesses, saddles, receptacles, and bookbindings. Often these
utilitarian objects are decorated to produce works of art.
Technique
The pelt of an animal must be treated to prevent decomposition
and stiffening before it becomes workable leather. It is first cured and
cleaned and then tanned with oil, vegetable tannins, or, most
commonly today, with minerals, principally chromium salts. It may
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then be dyed and given a smooth or embossed grain finish or a suede
finish. For the commercial manufacture of leather, see leather.
Leatherwork as a Craft
The leather craftsman first decides what functional object to
make for example, a handbag and constructs a paper pattern. He then
chooses leather to suit the purpose of the bag and the requirements of
the pattern. The leather is cut out with shears or knives and is usually
lined for increased bulk by laminating two pieces together. The seams
are joined by hand or machine sewing or by hand lacing. For
handwork, holes are made first with punches or awls. Functional line
stitches are set in from the edges of the leather; functional and
decorative edge stitches loop over them. Straps of leather, rope, or
chain may be stitched or riveted in place. The bag can be fastened by
drawstring or snaps, buckles, or other hardware.
Leatherwork as an Art,
The leather craftsman, especially in the
past, may also be an artist who embellishes his work with any of a
variety of techniques. He can work the surface of leather that has been
dampened for greater flexibility. For example, he can stamp a clearly
depressed image on it with stamping tools, cold or hot, like cattle
brands. He can incise designs with pointed instruments or carve away
parts of the surface with gouges to build a relief design. He can tool
(press) the surface with smooth instruments or emboss it from the back
to create relief, texture, and shading. He can also paint, gild, or embroider leather, or decorate it with appliqueed leather pieces or metal
plaques or with studs, rivets, or nails, or trim it with knotting, fringe, or
braid.
The contemporary leather craftsman may use leather to make
pure art objects, especially sculpture. Layers of leather laminated into a
solid block are then carved. A leather skin covers a skeletal core or is
cemented in sections to form a hollow geometrical solid. Thick leather
is wetted and bent or molded into sculptural forms. In addition, leather
is woven with other materials on looms, built into collages and reliefs,
and tied into macramé-knotted three-dimensional forms. It is also used
as a painting surface or as a negative, from which sandal soles or other
shapes have been decoratively punched or cut.
HISTORY
Primitive and Ancient
Primitive man, perhaps as early as 20,000 b. c., learned to
preserve
pelts and to bind them about himself or to cut and sew them together
for garments. He also wove strips into baskets and molded wet leather
around a foot or hard core to make shoes and containers. Because his
methods of preservation were not entirely effective, there is little chance
of recovering samples of early leather-craft. Among the oldest leather
objects on record are relatively sophisticated articles sandals, bags,
cushions from pre-dynastic Egyptian graves from before 5000 B. c.
Later Egyptian tombs and excavations in Siberia and northern Europe
have produced many more items, including containers, sheaths, and
garments. Paleolithic cave drawings, Middle Eastern stone sculpture,
and murals in Egyptian tombs illustrate ancient man working leather
and using it not only for clothing but also for armor, boats, chariot
flooring and tires, chair seats, tents, flagons, waterskins, wineskins,
rope, hinges, buttons, buckles, and windowpanes.
There are also many literary references to leather. For example,
according to the Bible, Adam and Eve were clothed in garments of
skin supplied by God (Genesis 3:21). Homer mentions Odysseus' skin
cap and Laertes' leather gloves. Julius Caesar noted the use of leather
sails by a tribe in Gaul. Other references indicate that peoples all over
the world were exploring the manufacture and use of leather.
Many tribal and nomadic peoples became expert workers in
leather, which their prey or their flocks and herds provided and which
made light, portable objects well suited to their way of life. The Tuareg
and other Saharan peoples made bags, cushions, and rugs, often with
painted, embroidered, tooled, or appliqueed leather decoration in
striking geometric designs. Siberian nomads made leather clothing,
bags, flagons, and horse trappings, which they ornamented with dyes,
paint, embroidery beads, modeling, and appliqueed leather and metal.
Eskimos and American Indians were particularly skillful at sewing
leather clothing, often embroidered with quills or, later, beads. Fringe
may originally have served as camouflage for the hunter before it
became purely embellishment.
Medieval and Later
.
Handcrafted leatherwork continued to be important from the
Middle Ages until the Industrial Revolution. One of its chief uses was
for the manufacture of books. Since ancient times man had written on
one side of a leather roll. From about the 4th century a. d. until paper
became prevalent during the Renaissance, most European books were
written on both sides of specially prepared sheets of thin leather failed
parchment or vellum. The sheets were bound together inside stiff
covers, which were frequently wrapped for protection in a thinly sliced
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(skived) piece of leather sewn or cemented in place. Medieval
bookbindings were often elaborately stamped, tooled, or embossed and
further protected by metal bosses (protuberances) and corners. During
the Renaissance and later, such surface modeling of leather bindings
was of great intricacy. Stamping was often combined with gold leaf,
originally a Muslim technique.
Dining the Middle Ages, Muslim craftsmen in the Middle East
and Spain were especially skilled leatherwork. First their products and
then their techniques spread to the rest of Europe. The Spaniards,
under Moorish influence since the 8th century, early became master
leatherworkers. Particularly adept at leather relief, they tooled, carved,
or embossed wall hangings, upholstery, bed covers, and couches, often
combining the modeling with gilding (gold leaf or silver or tin covered
with yellow varnish) or blight paint. Perhaps the Spaniards' greatest
contribution to leather work was in the fabrication of saddlery. They
carved addles and ornamented harness, whips and quirts, belts,
holsters, and other items with woven knots and elaborate braid and
applique.
Spanish leatherwork became fashionable throughout Europe in
the 16th and 17th centuries and influenced the craft in Latin America.
Italian leatherwork also became important in Europe, notably flat,
painted Venetian leather used on walls, screens, and furniture.
Although most leatherwork was industrialized in the 19th century,
Spanish and Italian craftsmen continue to make fine leather goods
shoes, gloves, handbags, boxes, picture frames.
20th Century American
American leatherwork, especially in the West and Southwest,
was influenced by Spanish and Indian styles, as, for example, in
elaborately tooled and stamped cowboy saddles and fringed jackets. As
a reaction to the industrialization of leather manufacture, leather-work,
requiring a minimum of equipment, became a popular handcraft for
both adults and children. Small leather shops appeared in mid-century,
most often in resort and college communities, selling handmade
sandals, belts, bags, and garments, especially to the young. Leather
also became fashionable for sling chairs and woven chair seats. In
addition, artists and sculptors explored the use of leather as a purely
aesthetic medium. Workers in leather generally tended to avoid
stamping and tooling in order to take advantage of the texture and
color of the material.
SHOE
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