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10. Light hear is emphasized by dark colours; it may …. faded with colours that are

extremely bright.

 

 

a) appeared

b) appear

c) appears

VI Write a summary of the text. Be ready to render it.

The discovery of natural fibres. As people learned more and more about spinning and weaving, they looked around for fibres they could use. A fibre is a slender, elongated strand that can be twisted to form a strong, tight length of yarn. Since the first weaving began, only five natural fibres have been widely used. They are wool, linen, cotton, silk, and ramie. Other fibres, such as cashmere from goats, and camel's hair from camels are sometimes used. For the most part, these other fibres are too scarce or too expensive to be used often. All five natural fibres are still used today. Each fibre was developed in different part of the world and comes from different sources. Every natural fibre can be used to make almost every item of clothing that is worn today.

Wool from Sumeria. The Sumerians, who lived in the valleys of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, were great traders. Wool, which comes from animal hair, was one of their great exports. At first, the Sumerians wore sheep and goatskins. Eventually, they learned that the hair or fibre of these animals could be spun into yarn and woven into cloth. Like wool today, most of the Sumerian wool was made of sheep's hair.

Silk from China. Silk was discovered in China thousands of years ago. A legend says that silk was found when Emperor Huand-Ti sent his wife to find out what was damaging the mulberry bushes. She accidentally dropped some silkworm cocoons into a basin of water and the threads slowly separated into long strands of silk. The production of raw silk by raising silkworms, was a part of the agricultural practices of Shang Dynasty (c. 1500 - 1000 B.C.). The practice of growing silkworms became a regular part of early Chinese society. Because silk has such lovely luster and can be dyed into deep, rich colours, it was considered rare and valuable from the time of its discovery. For well over 3,000 years, the Chinese guarded their secret to control the world silk trade.

6

: )

I

Read the text and translate it in writing.

Fabrics and their properties

There are five natural fabrics commonly used: cotton, linen, wool, silk and ramie. Cotton, linen and ramie come from plants, and wool and silk come from animals. Cotton, which grows from the seed pot of the cotton plant, has many uses. It is used for everything, from baby’s clothes to heavy denim jeans.

Cotton is soft, absorbent and comfortable to wear in hot weather. Because cotton takes dyes very well, it is often colourtreated. Cotton is often combined with other fabrics. Its one disadvantage is that it wrinkles easily. Manufactures have learned to treat cotton or to blend it with other fabrics in order to reduce wrinkling.

Linen is made from flax plants. It is a cool, strong and absorbent fabric, much like cotton but not quite as soft. Linen wrinkles even more easily than cotton. To reduce wrinkling, it can be treated chemically.

Wool is the most commonly used animal fibre. It comes from sheep. Wool is warmer than linen and cotton. The surface of the fabric is covered with very fine hairs. When soaked in water, wool fibres weaken and the fabric may shrink. Wool is often combined with other fibres to prevent shrinking in water.

Silk comes from silkworms. Silk fibres have a natural shine. They are soft and smooth, but also very strong fibres. Silk takes dyes very well. It also wrinkles, but modern fabric manufacturers have found ways to lessen this somewhat. Like wool, silk requires some special care. It is best cared for by hand washing or by dry cleaning.

Ramie is a strong plant fibre used in clothing today. Ramie is blended with other fabrics because it is brittle.

Man-made fabrics. For thousands of years, people had no choice but to use natural fibres. Then people learned to make fibres themselves. Manufactured fibres are made by chemically changing cellulose or combining two or more chemical compounds.

Cellulose fibres. Scientists wanted to find a fibre that would look and act like silk. Their study resulted in the production of a fibre called rayon. Most rayon and acetate fabrics are made from wood pulp. Rayon dyes well and, if treated chemically, it does not wrinkle much.

Non-cellulose fibres are made entirely by chemical processes. Nylon was the first noncellulose fibre. It is made from chemicals and petroleum products. Today, nylon has almost as many uses as cotton has. It is wrinkle-resistened does not shrink and repels water.

Nylon is used for rainwear, camping clothes and equipment, parachutes. But it is not comfortable to wear in hot weather.

Blended fibres.

Chemical processes are also used to combine two or more fibres into one fabric. Since cotton has a tendency to wrinkle, combining it with a nonwrinkling fibre reduces this tendency. Cotton for example, is often combined with polyester. It makes a fabric that looks like cotton and is cool to wear like cotton. But, like polyester, this fabric does not wrinkle easily. Fibers combined in this way are called blends. Blended fibres and fabrics can take advantage of each fibres' good qualities.

Answer the questions:

1.What natural fibres are derived from plants?

2.What two natural fibres are derived from animals?

3.What are main characteristics of cotton?

4.What properties of wool do you know?

5.How are silk fibres prodused?

6.What man-made fabrics do you know? What are their advantages?

III Match the words and learn them

 

1.

Blend

a)

2.

Absorbent

b)

3.

Wrinkling

c)

4.

Wool

d)

5.

Fabric

e)

6.

Rayon

f)

7.

Shrinking

g)

8.

Smooth

h)

9.

Soft

i)

10.

Linen

j)

11.

Fibre

k)

12.

Cotton

l)

IV Math each noun and its definition. Make up sentences using the correct form of

the verb to be. Follow the example: A garment is an article of clothing

1. wool

a) the property of fabric that shows whether the fabric

 

can absorb perspiration from the body

2. hand

b) fibres from lambs, sheep, and certain other animals

3. absorbency

c) the property of fabric related to how the fabric feels

 

next to the skin

4. dyeing

d) the property of fabric which enables it to resist and

 

recover from wrinkling

5.crease-resistance

e) a process of colouring fibres, yarns or fabrics with

 

natural or synthetic dyes

V Use the required form of the Infinitive and translate the sentences into

Ukrainian:

 

 

 

 

 

 

1.

Most rayon and acetate fabrics

…. from wood pulp.

 

 

 

a)

are made

 

b)

is made

c)

was made

 

2.

Correct balance can …. by considering together overall shape, style, texture and

colour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

a) achieved

 

b) be achieved

c) to achieve

 

3.

You must …. grey gloves to match your hat.

 

 

 

a)

be bougtht

 

b)

buy

c)

bought

 

4.

Both grey and beige can …. equally as basic wardrobe colours.

 

 

a)

be chosen

 

b)

to choose

c)

chose

 

5.

Could this casual dress … with any accessories?

 

 

 

a)

be

refitted

and

b)

refit and improve

c)

refitted

and

improved

 

 

 

 

improved

 

6. The word jeans …. since the early nineteenth century for trousers made from jean.

a)

using

b)

uses

c)

has been used

7.

Flax …. from the stalks of the linen plant.

 

 

a)

is obtained

b)

were obtaining

c)

obtaining

8.

Wool …. into two main types of fabric: worsteds and woolens

 

a)

made

b)

is making

c)

is made

9.

Flax …. in ancient Egypt.

 

 

 

 

a)

grown

b)

was grown

c)

were grown

10. To reduce the amount of wrinkling, linen can … chemically.

 

a) treating

b) be treated

c) treat

VI. Write a summary of the text. Be ready to render it.

The discovery of natural fibres. As people learned more and more about spinning and weaving, they looked around for fibres they could use. A fibre is a slender, elongated strand that can be twisted to form a strong, tight length of yarn. Since the first weaving began, only five natural fibres have been widely used. They are wool, linen, cotton, silk, and ramie. Other fibres, such as cashmere from goats, and camel's hair from camels, are sometimes used. For the most part, these other fibres are too scarce or too expensive to be used often. All five natural fibres are still used today. Each fibre was developed in different part of the world and comes from different sources. Every natural fibre can be used to make almost every item of clothing that is worn today.

Flax from Egypt. The Egyptians, who lived along the Nile River, enjoyed their own products and rarely traded with others. One of their products was a cloth called linen. They had discovered that a plant called flax could be spun and woven into linen. Linen became a valuable material to the Egyptians. Their rulers mostly wore white, which was considered sacred, and white linen was also placed inside their tombs.

Cotton from India. Less is known about the development of cotton than is known about wool and linen. Cotton comes from the cotton plant. It is believed to have originated in the Harappan society that flourished in the Indus Valley thousands of years ago. This area is called Pakistan today. While art works still exist to show how the Sumerians and Egyptians made and used cloth from natural fibres, little is known about the early stages of weaving cotton. Occasionally, cotton was also dyed and printed - a new development in fabric. How this was done remains a mystery. To compound the mystery, a piece of printed cotton has been found in an ancient Egyptian tomb. This has stirred up many questions about the history of cotton.

5

: ) I

Grammar: Tenses Forms in Active Voice, Participles I and II

I Read the text and translate it in written form.

SHOE MUSEUM IN ZLIN

Shoes have become an inseparable part of our live. They help us to protect our feet from cold, heat, moisture and dangerous surfaces. Already at the beginning of human history, shoes became a characteristic fashion item, an artwork inspiration as well as an artwork itself.

The English playwright George Bernard Shaw said, that if somebody established a complete museum of footwear development, he would in fact create a picture of material cultural history starting from the modest beginnings through the complicated mistakes up to the present purposefulness.

Answering the buyers, salesmen and designers interests Bata Company established such museum in Zlin (Czech Republic). Results of the company’s staff enthusiasm for collecting established a basis of the later collection of historical and exotic footwear. The collection was first presented to the public in 1931, so it can be said that the Shoe Museum in Zlin is one of the oldest museums in the world with this kind of specialization.

The collection reflects footwear development from the earliest periods of the Czech history up to the present days. There is also a quite unique collection of footwear from various foreign nations. It contains different types of footwear coming from all continents in the world. The most unique is probably a set of textile slippers from a feudal China. Also a collection of Ataman boots bought in 1911 is very interesting as well as a set of African sandals and a quite extensive collection of footwear from India. Most attractive exhibits for a common, non-professional visitor are probably the sandals made from ostrich-feathers and from human hair. These sandals were used in central Australia for ritual purposes. And what is mostly admired by the professionals? Probably an embroidered slipper dating back to the Thirty Years' War or a slipper called "cothurni"*, generally regarded to be preserved only in 20 samples in the whole world.

People have worn shoes since time immemorial. Out of necessity, but also for a show, on working days as well as on holidays, in joy and in grief. Although we may not realize it, the footwear is a fantastic source of information on ourselves and on the human history generally.

* ( . cothurni, . kothornoi) –

. .

II Answer the following questions:

1.How important have shoes become in our life?

2.Who said that if somebody established a complete museum of footwear development, he would in fact create a picture of material cultural history starting from the modest beginnings through the complicated mistakes up to the present purposefulness?

3.When and how was the Shoe Museum in Zlin founded?

4.What does the collection of footwear reflect?

5.What are the most unique exhibits of Zlin Museum collection?

III Match the following English words and Ukrainian equivalents:

dangerous surfaces

 

 

footwear development

 

 

textile slippers

 

,

quite extensive collection

 

 

sandals made from ostrich-feathers

 

 

human hair

 

( )

ritual purposes

 

 

embroidered slipper

 

 

trimming

 

 

fastening

 

 

Fur

 

 

IV Choose the right variant of the verbs from those given in brackets.

1. Shoes … an inseparable part of our live.

 

a) will be becoming

c) will have become

b) have become

d) would become

2. They … us to protect our feet from cold, heat, moisture and dangerous surfaces.

a) helps

c) will help

b) is helping

d) help

3.

The Shoe Museum in Zlin is one of the oldest museums in the world with this kind of

specialization.

 

a) were

c) are

b) is

d) had been

4.

The collection … footwear development from the earliest periods of the Czech

history up to the present days.

 

a) reflected

c) were reflecting

b) have reflected

d) reflects

5.

… also a quite unique collection of footwear from various foreign nations.

a) There are

c) There is

b) There were

d) There will be

6.

It … different types of footwear coming from all continents in the world.

a) contains

c) have contained

b) containing

d) will contain

7. People … shoes since time immemorial.

 

a)

wears

c) will be wearing

b) shall wear

d) have worn

8.

Flats in white and pastels … their way to shoe stores everywhere.

a) would make

c) has made

b) is making

d) are making

9.

The hide of horse also … as the leather for shoes.

a) serves

b) served

c) will serve d) are serving

10. By this time the hide … much of its body heat and is ready for the curing operation.

a) will have lost

c) had lost

b) have lost

d) has lost

V Give the forms of Participles I and II of the following verbs and translate them into Ukrainian:

to resist

to prove

to use

to apply

to dye

to oil-dress

to putrefy

to fit

to install

to require

to cut

to tie

VI Give summary of the text and be ready to speak on the topic

Preparation of hides

As soon as the hide is removed from the animal carcass it is inspected for “Take-off” damage, such as cuts, scores and irregular pattern. Any defect thus noted is called to the attention of the butcher responsible for corrective measures on the future hides. The hide is then promptly sent to the curing department by dropping it into a connection chute.

On arrival there the hides are spread out on a platform flesh side up, for the trimming and grading operation. Excess flesh and flat are removed, and the ears, snout, lower lip and the long-hair portion of the tail cut off.

The trimmed hides are then classified into various grades or sections such as steers or caws, heavy or “light” weight, branded or native (free brands), bulls, kips ect. When sufficient number of given selection has been accumulated they are counted and weighted. This weight is known as the “green” (uncured) weight and is the basis for calculation of the weight loss or “shrink” during cure. By this time the hide has lost much of its body heat and is ready for the curing operation.

5

: ) II

Grammar: Tenses Forms in Active Voice, Participles I and II

I Read the text and translate it in written form.

Characteristics of leather

Leather is one of the oldest goods of mankind, and most likely the first natural material that was chemically modified by man. Leather is a natural product and is made by converting animal hides and skins by means of a tannage, which consists of numerous mechanical and chemical operations.

The tannage causes a permanent preservation of the animal hide by cross-linking the hide proteins. This process converts the hide into leather and makes it resistant to putrefaction even when heated in humid conditions. The tanned hide will dry in air like leather, i.e. it still remains smooth and flexible and retains the breathing characteristics of the natural hide. The exceptional amounts of fibers and bundles of fibers and their irregular and interlaced three dimensional structures lead to the outstanding properties. The qualities that are typical for leather are good tear and tensile strength, elasticity, breathability, air and water vapor permeability, thermal insulation and water resistance, shape retention as well as the constant performance of these properties under varying influences of temperature and moisture. Until today many efforts were made to create a synthetic material that is able to provide the multiple and unique properties of leather, but all attempts to imitate leather were proven to be unsuccessful.

Nowadays these various processes demand highly developed chemicals and machinery in order to stay efficient and to meet the stringent regulations of the environmental protection.

Basically the leather making process takes place in 4 major steps. Firstly, prior to the actual tanning process the hides and skins are cleaned in a beamhouse processes in order to remove all ingredients which are not suitable for the manufacturing of leather, e.g. hairs and fat cells etc. Secondly, after this preparation the hides and skins are ready for the tanning process. Most commonly chromium tanning materials are chosen, but also vegetable extracts are often used. Thirdly, the subsequent wet finishing process is required to provide the leather with some appointed properties, like softness, color and handle. Fourthly, the final procedure that is applied to the leather is the finish and influences the final appearance, like gloss, touch or effects.

II Answer the following questions:

1.What process makes the leather resistant to putrefaction?

2.How does the tannage cause a permanent preservation of the animal hide?

3.Have the efforts to create a synthetic material with unique properties been a success?

4.Which qualities are typical for leather?

5. Which tanning materials are used on the second stage of the leather making process?

III Match the following English words and Ukrainian equivalents:

permanent preservation

 

by cross-linking

 

 

 

hide proteins

 

resistant to putrefaction

 

humid conditions

 

smooth and flexible

 

bundles of fibers

 

irregular and interlaced three

 

dimensional structures

 

tear and tensile strength

 

water vapor permeability

 

IV Choose the right variant of the verbs from those given in brackets.

1. The tannage … a permanent preservation of the animal hide by cross-linking the hide

proteins.

 

a)caused

c) causes

b) has caused

d) will cause

2. This process … the hide into leather and makes it resistant to putrefaction.

a) converts

c) will convert

b) had converted

d) are converting

3. The exceptional amounts of fibers and bundles of fibers and their irregular and interlaced three dimensional structures … to the outstanding properties.

a) led

c) have led

b) is leading

d) lead

4. Until today … many efforts to create a synthetic material that is able to provide the

multiple and unique properties of leather.

 

a) there are

c) there have been

b) was

d) there is

5. Nowadays these various processes … highly developed chemicals and machinery in order to stay efficient and to meet the stringent regulations of the environmental

protection.

 

a) have demanded

c) demands

b) demand

d) have been demanding

6. Basically the leather making process … in 4 major steps.

a) takes place

c) take place

b) are taking place

d) were taking place

7. Tannage … numerous mechanical and chemical operations.

a) comprise

b) has comprised

c) comprised d) comprises

8. The qualities that are typical for leather … good tear and tensile strength, elasticity, breathability, air and water vapor permeability, thermal insulation and water resistance, shape retention as well as the constant performance of these properties under varying

influences of temperature and moisture.

 

a) is

c) had been

b) has been

d) are

9. Prior to the actual tanning process … a cleaning process of the hides and skins in a beamhouse processes in order to remove all ingredients which are not suitable for the

manufacturing of leather.

 

a) are

c) had been

b) have been

d) there is

10. The addition of fat-liquor to the chrome tannage … to disperse natural fats and greatly improves the tear strength of the fiber.

a) helped

c) helps

b) has helped

d) are helping

V Give the initial forms of the words and translate them into Ukrainian:

Consisting, causing, converting, drying, remaining, retaining, interlacing, leading, varying, influencing, creating, providing, imitating, proving, demanding, developing, meeting, making, manufacturing, choosing, finishing, requiring, appointing, applying.

VI Give summary of the text and be ready to speak on the topic “Okay, and what about the finishing?”

The term "finishing" is used in the leather industry to describe a whole series of processes and operations which improve the properties and appearance of the leather and finally turn it into that exquisite material in which "Vogue" models look so stunning.

It is the finishing that gives leather its luster, its color, its feel, its "handle", in some cases even its surface structure – in short, its whole appearance. The purpose of the finish, therefore, is to enhance the leather by treating it with dyestuff solutions, pigment preparations, top coats and lacquers and by subjecting it to mechanical treatment such as plating, embossing or dry-drumming.

The basic rule is: the fewer blemishes on the raw hide, the less finish has to be applied. So what do you do with leathers where the grain layer is damaged? You simply buff off this layer completely or partially and give the leather a new coating, i.e. you apply a finish in several stages and thus build up a film layer to replace the natural grain.

Finishing is an art which calls for considerable skill. However, there is a whole range of auxiliaries and chemicals available to make the finisher's work easier, or in some cases to make it possible at all. Without them, for example, it would not be possible to produce super-elastic, non-flaking coatings for patent boots.

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