haute couture establishment, therefore is a first class designing and dressmaking concern.

The first haute couturier was Charles Frederick Worth. In 1840s he became the first couturier of France, a position he held until his death. The years 1905-18 were dominated by the most colourful personality of the world couture at that time, Paul Poiret. Poiret’s clothes were simple in line, yet feminine and exotic. Many of his designs were based on eastern themes: harem skirts, kimonos, gold fabrics, fur trimmings and Persian embroideries.

Immediately after the First World War, designers such as Lanvin and Patou became active. Lanvin gowns were elegant, made from beautiful fabrics such as gold and silver materials. Jean Patou was particularly noted for his return to a natural waistline and longer skirts.

The years 1920-39 became great ones for haute couture. The return to femininity was helped by the innovations of the famous designers Madeleine Vionnet and Gabriel Chanel. Vionnet believed that the feminine figure was very important to successful designs and couture and that the natural form should not be disgusted or distorted. Many of her designs were draped classical gowns. Typical were her day dresses and skirts of heavy crêpe, while for evening she used sheer fabrics which would float and drape; such designs were especially typical of Vionnet in the thirties.

Coco Chanel was a legend in the world of couture. In the 1920s she introduced casual looking, comfortable wear which was ultra chic. Her easy-to-wear suits became a wardrobe classic, made of soft tweeds or jersey wool and consisting of a plain or pleated straight short skirt, a jersey top and a jacket, which was often collarless. She also designed simple dresses and skirts, all with great care and attention to detail. She made wool a dress fabric; often it was plain, but jackets usually had a silk or quilted lining to match the blouse or jumper. The Chanel figure was slim and straight.

Chanel creations were deceptively simple in appearance but great attention was paid to cut and length. Trimming was limited to carefully chosen fancy buttons and edging. The double string, long necklace of pearls or amber, the lapel pin, the earrings, the bracelets and pendants were essential parts of Chanel ensemble setting off the plain garments.

DESIGNER

Designer is a broad term for a person who designs any of a variety of things. That usually implies the task of creating or of being creative in a particular area of expertise. It is frequently used to reference someone who draws or in some ways uses visual cues to organize their work. Designers are usually responsible for making a model that takes into consideration each step in a product's development, including not only how a product will be used but also how it will be made.

Designer is also the title for a person practicing in one of the design fields, such as architecture or engineering, but who is not licensed or does not possess a four year degree in that field.

Designer is especially used in reference to a fashion designer, usually one who has his/her own line or house, such as Givenchy and Versace.