Добавил:
ivanov666
Опубликованный материал нарушает ваши авторские права? Сообщите нам.
Вуз:
Предмет:
Файл:Processing Techniques for Different Furs. Tutorial
.pdf
5 minutes, Tanning Assist B is dosed (4 g/dm3). Next, the turned outward
skins are sammed in a centrifuge. Then, they are straightend, in length,
greased (50 parts of water; 25 parts of Nu Oil; 25 parts of Tanning Oil G),
dried, and dry-cleaned for one minute (250 dm
3
of solvent is used for
100 skins). Next, the skins are dried at 35 °C, shaken (if necessary), straightend in length, buffed and hot-pressed.
Finally, the semi-finished products are sent to the stage of final finish-
ing and delivered to the warehouse.
Lowenstein has developed the technology of acid dyeing for blue fox
skins. The float rate of the technological solutions is 25.
After retanning and neutralization, the skins of arctic foxes are sent for
acid dyeing. The dyes of the Alizarin series are used. The prosess is carried
out at 65 °C for 2.5–3 hours. The additional reagents are added to the bath
with water. They are: Penetrator M (0.7 g/dm
3
); Level P (0.7 g/dm3). Next,
The skins are loaded into the bath. Dissolved dyes are dosed after
15 minutes.
A: scarlet:
1.25 g/dm
B: purple:
0.64 g/dm
C: olive:
3.0 g/dm
D: beige:
0.42 g/dm
3
of Alizarin Red CGa, 0.75 g/dm3 of Alizarin Yellow T.
3
of Alizarin Red CGa, 0.96 g/dm3 ofAlizarin Blue T.
3
of Alizarin Olive MLT.
3
of Alizarin Brown PF-53-B, 0.28 g/dm3 of Alizarin Dark
Brown NB.
Option E: light gray:
0.48 g/dm
3
of Alizarin Charcoal Gray LO, 0.025 g/dm3 of Alizarin Red T.
After 1 hour, formic acid is dosed (1.0 g/dm
portion of formic acid (2.0 g/dm
3
) is added. After 1 hour, the solution is
3
). After 1 hour, the second
drained out. Next, the skins are washed, sammed and dried. After the required finishing processes, the semi-finished products are delivered to
the warehouse.
81
82
1.5. Sea animal skins
1.5.1. Fur seal skins
The sealary are located on the Commander Islands and Seal Island (near
South Sakhalin). The protection of the fur seals has provided the growth of
their livestock. Nowadays, seal hunting is strictly limited.
The skin length of males along the ridge reaches 180–200 cm, the skins
of females are smaller. The fur hair has a dark gray or brownish-gray color,
which is lighter on the sides. The down is thick, brown, and silky. It is up to
15 mm high. The height of the awn is 20 mm.
There are several age and sex groups of the fur seal:
– black seal – cubs with fetal fur of black-brown color. Molting of primar
hair occurs at the age of 2.5–3 months;
– gray seal – grown cubs at the age of about 1 year, covered with secondary
soft fur of a silvery-gray color with brown down;
– young males at the age of 2–4 years – animals with an even, low
and
dense fur of a dark brown or brown-gray color. The best quality skins are skins
of a fur seal at the age of 3 years;
– beach master – males at the age of 5–6 years with a body length of 2 m,
fur of brownish color with a coarse awn, sparse and coarse down and a highly
developed mane;
– adult females with skins similar to the skins of beach masters, but o
a darker color.
For skins, only beach masters are killed.
Compared to seals, the fur seal has auricles and thick brown silky down.
Preliminary processing. The skins should be removed in a layer with
a straight longitudinal incision in the middle of the womb from the lower lip to
the anus, keeping the head to the eyes. The fins should be completely removed
and the cutting line should follow the border of the hairless part. The skins
should be cleaned of fat, meat, dirt, blood, and preserved by brining.
Fur seal skins are sorted according to GOST 2897-74 and subdivided depending on their area. The area of the skins is determined by multiplying its
length, measured from the eye to the root of the tail, by the width, which is
the arithmetic mean of measuring the width of the skin in three places: in
the middle – the widest part of the skin; in the upper – the head part at a distance
y
f
of 20 cm from the line between the eyes; at the bottom – at a distance of 20 cm
from the edge of the skin.
Depending on the quality of fur and skin, fur seal skins are subdivided into
grades. I grade includes skins with dense and even fur over the entire area and
with a clean and thin skin. Skin pigmentation is allowed on the head to the ears
and on the rump up to 3 cm from the edge. II grade includes skins with less dense
fur over the entire area and with clean and thick skin. Skin pigmentation is allowed on the head and neck parts, fins and adjacent areas on the sides, on
the rump up to 6 cm from the edge. III grade includes skins with rare fur over
the entire area, and with clean and thick skin. Skin pigmentation is allowed over
the entire area.
The defects of fur seal skins are: tears, vortices, holes, bald patches, wiped
spots, bitten awn, snacks, sores, deep cuts (with exposure of hair follicles), pinkish-red spots of bacterial origin, bruising, irregular configuration, unsatisfactory
degreasing. Depending on the defect number, skins are sorted into four groups.
Batching. Fur seal skins are batched according to their size, skin thickness,
grades, and groups of defects.
Applications. Hats, collars, women's coats and men's jackets are made
from fur seal skins.
The skins should be dressed in a seam, preserving all topographic areas,
symmetrically spread on the shields. The skins are dyed black and other colors
and plucked.
Skins should be uniform in thickness, well-buffled, and soft. The guard hair
must be completely for plucked skins. The thickness of plucked skins is not more
than 1.1 mm. For skins dyed black, the color depth should be at least half
the height of the hair.
Sorting. Fur seal skins are sorted according to GOST 10623-63 and subdi-
vided:
– by the way of fur processing: plucked and non-plucked;
– by fur color: undyed and unpicked skins (dark gray and brown), fo
plucked skins (fro
m light brown to dark brown), dyed (black and colored);
– by grades: three grades (I, II, III);
– by groups of defects: four groups (first, second, third, fourth).
Marking. A trademark and a two-digit code are applied on the skin.
The first digit denotes the grade; the second one denotes a group of defects.
r
83
84
1.5.2. Seal skins
Seals live on the North and East coasts of Russia, in the Caspian Sea
and on Lake Baikal. Eight species of seals live in Russia: sea hare (bearded
seal), European seal (common wheatear), larga, common (ringed) seal, harp
seal bay seal, Caspian seal, Baikal seal, ribbon seal (banded seal).
The seal skins are important from the economic point of view, especially harp seals, Caspian seals, and European seals. The skins of adult seals
(of all species) differ from fur seal skins mainly in the absence of down.
Preliminary processing. Seal skins are removed in a layer with a longitudinal cut in the middle of the belly, removing the front and rear flippers,
but preserving the tail part of the skin. The muzzle with nasal cartilage
should be trimmed 10–15 cm above the eyes. The skins are preserved by
the wet-salted method (dry salting or brining). Processing of skins with antioxidants is used to preserve the natural color of the fur.
Seal skins are sorted according to GOST 11480-68. They are divided
according to their age, areas of distribution, varieties (only for seal skins) and
groups of defects.
The quality of the fur of a seal depends greatly on the age. Therefore,
seal skins are divided into five age categories:
1. Baby seals – skins of 10–15 days old pups with a very thick, shi
ny
white to cream-colored fur. The primary hair is changed into the secondary
hair very quickly. Moulting also proceeds quickly and reduces the quality of
the skin. Therefore, the skins of baby seals are divided into two grades.
I grade includes skins without signs of molting. II grade includes skins with
weak signs of molting, when a secondary gray color begins to appear under
the primary hair. At the present time, hunting for seal skins is prohibited.
2. Crested hooded seals – the skins of cubs of a hooded seal with
a strong, even, shiny and thick fur of a dark silver-gray color with a bluish
tint on the ridge and white-cream color on the belly.
3. Bearded seals – skins of cubs of bearded seal with uterine, soft, dense
fur (dark or light gray on the ridge and silvery gray on the belly).
4. Serka and sivar – skins of pups and young seals less than a year old
with secondary molted low, shiny fur of gray or silver-gray color on the ridge
and light silver on the sides and belly.
5. Seal skins – skins of adult seals with glossy, low, coarse, almost flufffree fur. Depending on the area of distribution, the color and pattern of
the skin may change.
85
The defects of seal skins include tears, holes, worn out places. draft,
bald patches, uneven edges and enlarged holes from cut fins, yellowing of
the fur as a result of fat oxidation and improper primary processing. Seal
skins are classified into four groups of defects.
Batching. Seal skins are batched according to the method of their
preservation, age categories, colors, groups of defects, and dkin thickness.
Application. Seal skins are used to make hats, collars, women's coats,
men's jackets, etc.
The skins of the seal should be dressed in a seam, preserving all topographic areas, symmetrically straightened. They are bleached and dyed. In
addition, the skins of baby seals are sheared and dyed.
Sorting. Seak skins are sorted according to GOST 11809-82. The seal
skins are divided according to:
– skin age: baby seals, bearded seals, serka, and sivar;
– fur structure: seal seals, ringed seals,bay seals, and ribbon seals;
– fur color – undyed, bleached-dyed (140 %), dyed (monotonous and
colored), monotonous with different patterns (125 %), dark gray, brown and
dark brown (110 %), black (100 %);
– skin grades – I grade of baby seals (100 %) and II grade (80 %
);
– skin defects – the first group (100 %), the second group (95 %),
the third group (80 %), the fourth group (60 %).
Marking. A digital sign is applied on a seal skin. The first digit denotes
a grade, the second – a group of defects. In addition, the date of issue, GOST
number and retail price are indicated.
Processing of sea animal skins. Lowenstein has developed the scheme
for processing sea animal skins. Firstly, raw materials are soaked. Soaking
parameters: float rate – 12, temperature – 30 ºС, duration – 12 hours. To prepare the soaking solution is prepared 10.0 g of sodium chloride, 1.0 g of Wetter HAC, 1.5 g of Elbro 100-C is mixed per 1 dm
3
. After soaking, the opera-
tion of fleshing is carried out.
Next process is pickling. It is carried out at a float rate of 12, temperature
of 32 ºС for 12 hours. For 1 dm
of Wetter HAC, and 2.0 g of Elbro SR are added into the bath. After 2 hours
and 30 minutes, 5 cm
OIL G and 1.2 cm
3
of formic acid is added. After 1 hour, 2 cm3 of Tanning
3
of Brushing Raccoon EXTRA are added.
3
of water, 50.0 g of sodium chloride, 1.0 g
After pickling, the tanning process is carried out at a float rate of 12,
temperature of 35 ºС for 12 hours. 50.0 g of sodium chloride and 20.0 g of
aluminum alum are added to 1 dm
tanning agent (1.0 g of Cr
2O3
3
of water. After 2 hours, 4.0 g of a chrome
) is added. After 1 hour, 4.0 g of Moutotan is
86
added. After 1 hour, 1.0 g of dissolved Tanning Assist B is added into
the bath. Then, sodium bicarbonate (0.75 g/dm
3
1 cm
of Liquid Brightener C and 1 cm3 of Liquid Brightener ND are added.
After that, sodium bicarbonate is dosed again (1 g/dm
of Tanning Oil G and 2 cm
3
of Nu Oil are added into the solution. In
3
) is added. After 1 hour,
3
). After 1 hour, 2 cm3
12 hours, the skins are sammed in a centrifuge.
Further, the operation of greasing using melted fat is carried out. Finally, the semi-finished product is sent to the next stage of processing according to the standard technology.
Raw materials are soaked. Soaking parameters: float rate – 12, temperature – 30 ºС, duration – 12 hours. Bath composition is: sodium chloride
(10.0 g/dm
3
); Wetter HAC (1.0 g/dm3); Elbro 100-C (1.5 g/dm3). After soak-
ing, the operation of fleshing is carried out using a disk machine.
Next process is pickling. It is carried out at a float rate 12, temperature
of 32 ºС for 12 hours. To prepare the working solution, 50.0 g of sodium
chloride, 1.0 g of Wetter HAC, and 2.0 g of Elbro SR are mixed per 1 dm
of water. 5 cm
3
of formic acid is added after 2 hours and 30 minutes. 2 cm3
of Tanning Oil G is added after 1 hour.
After pickling, the tanning process is carried out. Tanning parameters:
float rate – 12, temperature – 35 ºС, duration – 12 hours. For 1 dm
3
of water,
50.0 g of sodium chloride, 20.0 g of aluminum alum are mixed. After 2 hours,
4.0 g of chrome tanning agent (1.0 g of Cr
) is added. After 1 hour a 4.0 g
2O3
of Moutotan is added. After 1 hour, 1.0 g of dissolved Tanning Assist B is
added into the bath. Then, 0.75 g of sodium bicarbonate is added. After
1 hour, 1.0 g of dissolved Tanning Assist B and 0.75 g of sodium bicarbonate
are added. After 1 hour, the second portion of sodium bicarbonate is dosed
(1 g/dm
3
). After 1 hour, 2 cm3 of Tanning Oil G, 2 cm3 of Nu Oil are added.
At the end of the process, the pH is 3.7. After 12 hours, the skins are sammed
in a centrifuge.
Next, the operation of straightening is carried out. Then the skins are
dried at 30–35 ºС without stretching.
The operation of greasing is carried out using melted fat. After that,
the skins are ageing for 12 hours. The operation of kicking is carried out for
for 1–1.5 hours only for skins of small areas. The operation of drumming is
carried out in sawdust for 1 hour.
Then, the operations of shaking, stretching, and slicking are carried out.
Then, greasing with melted fat and slicking are carried out. Next, the semifinished product is dry-cleaned.
3
Drumming is carried out for 1 hour. 10 dm3 of water is mixed with a bag
of sawdust (if the skins are dry). After drumming, stretching in length and
width is carried out. Finally, the skins are prepared for dyeing.
An example of acid dyeing of seal skins using Lowenstein reagents is
presented below.
The semi-finished product is retanned at a float rate of 12, temperature
of 35 ºС for 14–18 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride
(30.0 g/dm
the skins are neutralized at the same temperature in the presence of sodium
chloride (30.0 g/dm
(2.0 g/dm
3
); formalin (5.0 g/dm3); sodium carbonate (3.0 g/dm3). Then,
3
3
), and nonionic surfactant (0.5 g/dm3). The operation is carried out
), ammonia (3.0 g/dm3), sodium hydrosulfite
for 2 hours.
The hair dyeing proceeds at a temperature of 65 ºС for 2.5–3.0 hours.
An example of purple dyeing is presented below.
Penetrator M (0.7 g/dm
Next, the skins are loaded into the bath. After 15 minutes, the dissolved dyes
are dosed. They are Alizarin Blue T (0.4 g/dm
and Alizarin Black PL (0.1 g/dm
(1.0 g/dm
3
). After 1 hour, the second portion of formic acid (2.0 g/dm3) is
3
) and Level P (0.7 g/dm3) are mixed in the bath.
3
3
). After 1 hour, formic acid is dosed
), Alizarin Red T (0.5 g/dm3),
added. After 1 hour, the solution is drained out and the operation of washing
is carried out.
After finishing processes, semi-finished products are sorted, marked and
delivered to the warehouse.
87
88
2. PROCESSING OF FUR INDUSTRY WASTE
There is a lot of waste after processing various types of fur raw materials. The waste of the fur industry is a valuable material for secondary use.
The fur industry waste is divided into the materials obtained after dyeing processes and the materials obtained after furrier production. The waste from fur
factories includes leather flesh, fat, cuttings and wool.
The leather flesh is used to produce flesh glue. This glue consists of
glutin, which does not dissolve in water at temperatures below 20 °C, but
only swells in it. When the temperature rises, glutin dissolves, forming
highly dispersed colloidal solutions. In addition, flesh glue contains gelatose,
which dissolves in water at temperatures below 20 °C. The glutin – gelatose
ratio in the glue may be different. The ratio depends on the collagen processing regime. The glue, which consists mainly of glutin, is called gelatin.
The glue containing mainly gelato is called carpentry or flesh glue.
If fur factories do not process the leather flesh, it is preserved mainly by
drying at a temperature of 30–40 ºС, an air humidity of 40–45 % and an air
velocity in the dryer of 2 m/sec.
The process of glue production begins with rinsing leather flesh in
a drum using running water. Then the leather flesh is treated with a solution
of sulfuric acid (0.5 g/dm
3
) and bisulfite (1.5 g/dm3) in a bath. Acid treatment
is used to loosen the flesh and facilitate its subsequent uncoiling. Then,
the process of rinsing is performed using clean water to neutralize the flesh.
It excludes the possibility of acidic or alkaline hydrolysis of glutin and, therefore, reducing the viscosity of the glue. The main operation is the cooking of
the flesh. First, the flesh is placed into the hot water (70 ºС). The air is passed
through the water. The process is carried out for 5–6 hours. By the end of
cooking, the temperature increases up to 75 ºС and the resulting liquid is
poured into a separate down tank. The concentration of the glue is 4–5 %.
Then the flesh is filled again with hot water. An antiseptic is added, which is
used to prevent the glutin precipitatation glutin. The second cooking lasts 5–
6 hours with a gradual increase in temperature to 85 ºС. Then, the third cooking with all intermediate operations is conducted for 4 hours at a final temperature of 85–95 ºС. Liquids of the same fractions are drained, filtered and
evaporated to a dry residue concentration of 25–30 %. Then, they are
bleached with sodium hydrosulfite or zinc dust with bisulfite and poured into
vessels for cooling. After cooling, the resulting jelly is cut into tiles and dried
89
with air at a relative humidity of no more than 76 % and a temperature of no
higher than 25–28 °C.
Glutin and gelatose can also be obtained by the precipitation of a concentrated solution of sulfuric acid ammonium. However, there are some difficulties arised due to its high content in the finished glue. Collagen pretreatment allows us to dissolve it completely even at low temperatures. One of
the mode of this treatment includes sequentially alkaline hydrolysis, neutralization and dissolution of hydrolysis products in an acidic medium. Fat that
floats to the surface during the glue boiling process is cleaned with a solution
of sulfuric acid and sodium chloride.
When wool sheepskins are processed, a large amount of grease is removed during washing and degreasing, which is a valuable material for medicine and the pharmaceutical industry. It is known as lanolin. Crude lanolin
is a dark brown viscous mass with an unpleasant odor. Lanolin is a mixture
of monohydric secondary cyclic alcohols of cholesterol and isocholesterol.
There are two types of Lanolin: hydrous wool fat and anhydrous lanolin. Hydrous wool fat is produced at a water content of up to 25 %, and anhydrous
lanolin is produced at a melting temperature of 38 ºС. Lanolin is easily soluble in gasoline, ether, alcohol. Crude lanolin can be used as a lubricant, while
anhydrous (purified) lanolin is used in medicine and pharmaceuticals.
A tanned flap is processed for the purpose of extracting wool from it.
To do this, the flap is boiled in an acidic environment; the wool is filtered,
neutralized and washed. Then, after wringing, they are dried and sorted.
Tanned cuttings are processed to extract wool from it. The cuttings are
boiled in an acidic environment. The wool is filtered, neutralized and
washed. Then, after samming, the resulting materials are dried and sorted.
Wool is obtained as waste at various stages of production. The wool is
divided into acid wool, obtained after uncoiling the flesh, and sewer wool,
which is collected in sedimentation tanks after hair samming, removing
burrs, etc.
The most valuable type of wool is shaved wool, collected directly from
the shaving and chipping machines.
90
3 . CHEMICALS FOR FUR AND LEATHER
Chemical product
Application
Wetter НАС
It is a 100 % active, non-ionic wetting and soaking
agent. It is produced with the addition of special
bactericides and fungicides. It is used to manufacture soft leather, protect fur hair from bacteria, and
prevent hair slipping.
Its concentration is 1 g/dm
3
during the 1st and 2nd
soaking operations.
De-Sol-А
It is a detergent for washing and degreasing furs and
fur sheepskins.
Its concentration is 1.5 g/dm
3
for the operations of
washing and degreasing.
Elbro 100-С
It is an enzyme, used for the operation of soaking. It
is used to produce soft leather.
Its concentration is 0.5 g/dm3.
PROCESSING
Chemical companies have been developing a huge number of different
chemicals for the processing of fur raw materials. Here we describe the main
chemical companies and their products developed for different operations of
fur and leather processing.
Joseph H Lowenstein & Sons Inc Products
Joseph H. Lowenstein and Sons, Inc. is an Americal company, which
manufactures chemical products for fur and leather industries. The company
focuses on the production of organic dyes and pigments.
Table 2. Chemical products for soaking, washing and degreasing
Соседние файлы в предмете [НЕСОРТИРОВАННОЕ]