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Processing Techniques for Different Furs. Tutorial

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Muskrats differ from nutrias and beaver in more silky, leaden-tinted down, smaller skins. Compared to water rats, muskrats have thicker fur, flat­ter tails, and a gray-blue color of the fur on the belly.
Preliminary processing. Muskrat skins are removed in the form of tube saving the fur of the head, without tail, paws. Their skins are preserved by the fresh-dry method.
Muskrat skins are sorted according to GOST 2966-67. They are divided according to:
– the size: large (the area is more than 650 cm
2
, 100 % of the area) and
small (the area is from 400 to 650 cm2, 60 % of the area);
– the grades (I, II, III grades).
There are different defects of muskrat skins. Depending on the nature and size of the defects, the skins are divided into four groups or they are indicated as non-standard.
Batching. Muskrat skins are batched according to their size, skin thick­ness (up to 0.3, 0.3–0.6 and over 0.6 mm), colors, grades, and groups of de­fects. Non-standard skins are assembled in separate batches.
Since muskrat skins are very fat, thick and nondurable, the method of their processing are complicated. The nature of the fur varies greatly depend­ing on the skin topography. There is a large number of guard hairs on the skin sides.
The skins are produced in their natural color. They may be dyed to im­itate light or dark mink. They are sheared, plucked and dyed black to imitate a seal or colored mink skin.
Depending on the strain, the weight of the skin varies from 53 to 82 g.
Application. Headdresses, collars, women's fur jackets, coats are made from muskrat skins.
The skins should be curried in a layer with a straight cut in the middle of the belly or with a tube, saving all parts except for the tail, paws and noses).
Sorting. Muskrat skins are sorted according to GOST 11106-74. They are divided according to:
– the method of fur finishing (unshorn, sheared, sheared with the awn removed);
– the color (undyed – from dark brown along the ridge to light brown with a golden tint on the sides and silvery white on the body, downy hair is gray with brown tips; dyed – black dyed at least ⅔ hair length, with a black and dark gray base; colored – monochromatic of different colors, as well as with a transition of color intensity from the ridge to the lateral areas of
62
the skin and from the ends of the awn to the down, similar to the natural color transition).
Depending on the development degree of fur, the skins are divided into
three grades. Depending on the defects, they are divided into four groups.
The area of the skin is determined by multiplying its length, measured from the middle between the eyes to the base of the tail, by the width, meas­ured in the middle of the length of the skin. For the skins curried with a tube, double value of the width is used in the calculation.
Marking. A two-digit number is applied on a skin. The first number indicates the grade, the second number indicates the group of defects.
Processing technology of muskrat skins. According to the Standard technology, the skins are soaked, their legs are unsealed. Then, they are fleshed and sent to the second soaking which is carried out in sodium fluoro­silicate. After that, the skins are pickled with acetic acid and table salt. Next, the skins are ageing. Then, they are sammed, staked using a centering ma­chine, slicked using a cutting disc knife, and tanned similar to the chrome­aluminum-hyposulfite tanning of rabbit skins. Then, the operations of age­ing, samming, stacking, slicking, greasing, drying as well as finishing oper­ations are carried out.
There are problems arising due to thick-skinned muskrat skins with a skin thickness more than 0.6 mm. In this case, soaking and pickling should be long enough. Pickling is recommended to be carried out twice. The first pickling is carried out for 10 hours, then ageing, staking, slicking. The second pickling is followe by all subsequent operations. Thick-skinned skins pre­pared by this method were distinguished by soft and elastic skin.
Russian Research Institute of Fur Industry has developed the special technology for processing muskrat skins. The float rate of solutions is 12.
First, the skins are soaked at 30-32 ºС for 2 hours in Effect M (1.0 g/dm 16 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (20.0 g/dm Gamma 1 (2.0 g/dm
3
). Further, the second soaking is carried out at 25–30 ºС for 14–
3
); Gamma 3 (1.0 g/dm3); Preparation FH (1.0 g/dm3).
3
);
After samming, the operations of drumming, fleshing, degreasing are carried out at 38 ºС for 1 hour. The composition of the bath is: sodium chlo­ride (10.0 g/dm
3
); Tetramol (2.0 g/dm3); Polyfix (0.5 g/dm3). The skins are
sammed and sent to the dressing process.
The operations of pickling and tanning are carried out at 32–35 ºС for 18 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (10.0 g/dm Gamma 2 (1.0 g/dm
3
). After 1 hour, lactic acid (4.0 g/dm3) is dosed. After
3
);
63
2 hours, formic acid (4.0 g/dm3) is added. The sodium thiosulfate (10.0 g/dm
3
) and a chrome tanning agent (0.8–2.0 g/dm3) are added.
After ageing, the semi-finished product is sammed, stacked, cut, tanned, and greased. Tanning is carried out at 35 ºС for 16–18 hours. The composi­tion of the bath is: sodium chloride (40.0 g/dm inol (10.0 g/dm tanning agent (3.0–4.0 g/dm
3
), sodium thiosulfate (5.0 g/dm3). After 1 hour, a chrome
3
), aluminum-potassium alum (15.0 g/dm3) are
dosed. Then, sodium carbonate (0.5 g/dm
3
), Gamma 3 (1.0 g/dm3), Mex-
3
) is added.
After ageing and samming, the skins are sent for greasing using Mexinol (50 % emulsion). After lying down, drumming, drying, stacking, greasing are carried out. Then, drumming, drying, stacking are repeated. The second drumming is carried out in Gamma 7 (7–8 g per skin). After that, dyeing, greasing, and finishing processes are carried out according to the standard technology.
Lowenstein has developed the technology for processing natural skins of muskrats. The float rate of technological solutions is 11.
The first soaking is carried out at 30 ºС for 16–18 hours. Bath composi­tion is: sodium chloride (20.0 g/dm
3
); Wetter HAC (1.0 g/dm3). After tramp­ing and wet drumming, fat skins with large thickness are sent to the second soaking at 30 ºС for 4–6 hours. Bath composition is: sodium chloride (40.0 g/dm
3
); Wetter HAC (1.0 g/dm3). Then, the solution is drained out.
The skins are sent for straightening and fleshing.
Pickling is carried out at 30 ºС for 16–18 hours. Bath composition is: sodium chloride (50.0 g/dm (2.0 g/dm
3
) or Super Lotan A (3.0 g/dm3). The skins are loaded into the bath.
After 3 hours, 85 % formic acid (4.0 g/dm
3
); Wetter HAC (1.0 g/dm3); 80% lactic acid
3
) is dosed. Next, the skins are sammed. If necessary (for very large and thick skins), they are ageing for 12 hours.
Tanning is carried out at 36 ºС for 16–18 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (50.0, g/dm 40 % formalin (1.0 g/dm
3
). The skins are loaded into the bath. After that, a chrome tanning agent is dosed into the bath in the amount of 2.0 g/dm After 4 hours, Tanning Assist B (5.0 g/dm
3
); aluminum alum (50.0 g/dm3);
3
) is added. Next, the skin is
3
sammed, the heads and necks are cut. The skins are sammed again in a cen­trifuge.
Finishing processes and operations begin with drumming using dry saw­dust. The process is carried out until the skins are completely dried (35 kg odf sawdust per 300 skins). Next, the semi-finished product is greased in a bath for 45 minutes using 10 dm
3
of Mink Grease TP (for 300 skins). Next,
.
64
the semi-finished product is trumped for 1 hour. Then, either ageing (12 hours) or greasing (water: Nu Oil: Tanning Oil G = 2: 1: 1) is carried out. After that, free drying is carried out.
Next, the semi-finished product is drummed for 30 minutes using 18 kg of used sawdust (for 300 skins), shaken, straightened, and slicked (if it is required).
The second greasing is also carried out in a bath for 30 minutes using
3
5 dm
of Mink Grease TP (for 300 skins). After processing in a mill (1 hour), the semi-finished product is drummed again for 30 minutes using 18 kg of used sawdust (for 300 skins). Then, the operations of shaking, strenghening and drumming are carried out. This time, the skins are drummed for 3– 5 hours using 35 kg of sawdust, 3 dm
3
of Drumming Solvent 14 (for
300 skins).
After drumming, the skins are dry-cleaned for 1 minute using 200 dm of solvent. Then, the skins are dried at 40 ºС. The next drumming takes 1 hour in 24 kg of sawdust and 5 dm are straightened in width, and pulled in length. The final drumming is carried out for 5 hours in 30 kg of sawdust, 2 dm
3
1 dm
of water mixed with 200 cm3 of Glo-Mor.
3
of water (for 300 skins). Then, the skins
3
of Drumming Solvent 14, and
Next, the skins are hot-pressed, combed, sorted, marked and delivered to the warehouse.
Lowenstein has developed the technology for dyeing and greasing op­erations. The float rate of the technological solutions is 12.
Forst, the skins are tanned at 35 ºС for 16–18 hours. The bath composi­tion is: sodium chloride (40.0 g/dm are loaded into the bath. Then, Tan EZN (5.0 g/dm
Neutralization is carried out at 32 ºС for 2 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (30.0 g/dm carbonate (2.0-5.0 g/dm
3
); 25% ammonia (2.0 g/dm3).
3
); Wetter HAC (0.5 g/dm3). The skins
3
); Wetter HAC (1.0 g/dm3); sodium
3
) is added to the solution.
Next, the skins are washed and sammed in a centrifuge.
The pickling process is carried out at 32 ºС for 16–18 hours. The com­position of the bath is: sodium chloride (20.0 g/dm chrompeak (2.5 g/dm
3
). After 2 hours, the pH of the solution is controlled.
3
); RM-10 (20.0 g/dm3);
It should be 5.5–6.0. If necessary, the required pH value is adjusted by add­ing formic acid. After pickling, the skins are sammed in a centrifuge and sent to the stage for brown dyeing with oxidation dyes of the Rodol series.
The process takes 4–5 hours at a temperature of 34 ºС. Bath composition is: sodium chloride (20.0 g/dm JS (4.0 g/dm
3
); Rodol EG (0.2 g/dm3). The skins are loaded into the bath.
3
); 25 % ammonia (0.5 g/dm3); Rodol Brown
3
After 15 minutes, 35 % hydrogen peroxide is dosed into the bath in an amount of 2.1 g/dm (2.1 g/dm
3
) is added. At the end of dyeing, the skins are thoroughly washed.
Further, the operations of salting and greasing are carried out at 32 ºС for 3 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (30.0 g/dm Tanning Oil G (3.0 g/dm
3
. After 1 hour, the second portion of hydrogen peroxide
3
). After that, the skins are sammed in a centrifuge,
3
);
dried, drummed. Next, they go through a cycle of finishing operations.
Pulkra (Boehme) has developed the technology for processing thick muskrat skins. The float rate of the technological solutions is 15.
The skins are soaked at 25 ºС for 16–18 hours. The composition of the bath is: Atezan LPV (2.0 g/dm malin (0.5 g/dm
3
). Formalin is added in 4 doses with an interval of 15 minutes.
3
); Foryl PC / EDS (1.0 g/dm3); 30 % for-
After samming in a centrifuge, the the skins are straightened using a disk cutter. Then, the skins are drummed for 1 hour using 120 kg (per 1000 skins) of sawdust, water and Foryl PK / EDS in an amount of 2.5 dm ing, the second soaking is carried out at 25 ºС for 1.5–4 hours. The compo­sition of the bath is: sodium chloride (10.0 g/dm Foryl PC / EDS (2.0 g/dm
3
). Then, the skins are sammed and sent to the fin-
3
); Atezan LPV (1.5 g/dm3);
3
. After shak-
ishing processes.
Pickling is carried out at 35 °C for 16–18 hours. The composition of the–bath is: sodium chloride (60.0 g/dm (1.0 g/dm added. After 30 minutes, Pellan GLS (3.0 g/dm AGS (3.0 g/dm
3
) is added. After 30 minutes, 85 % formic acid (10.0 g/dm3) is
3
). Then, the skins are sent to the stage of ageing.
Tanning is carried out at 35 ºС for 16–18 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (40.0 g/dm (0.5 g/dm (8.0 g/dm After 1 hour, Pellan FPP (3.0 g/dm carbonate (0.5 g/dm
3
) is added to achive the pH 3.2, then, after 15 minute, Tannit AGS
3
) is added. After 30 minutes, Tannit HCS (2.0 g/dm3) is added.
3
) is added to achive the pH 3.6).
3
). After 30 minutes, Foryl PK / EDS
3
). After 30 minutes, Tannit
3
). After 15 minutes, formic acid
3
is added. After 30 minutes, sodium bi-
At the end of tanning, drumming is carried out in used dry sawdust for 30–60 minutes. Then, the skins are stacked and greased in a cam crusher using Valkatan R 2 / Valkatan FVF. Dry cleaning is used after greasing.
Further processing is carried out according to the standard technology.
65
66
1.4.2. Squirrel skins
The squirrel lives in the forest and forest-steppe zones of Russia. It is not found only on the Kuril Islands. The squirrel is also acclimatized in the North Caucasus, Crimea and Kazakhstan.
The squirrel is one of the main animals of the fur trade in the forest and forest-steppe zones of the Russian Federation. Squirrel skins are valuable raw materials for fur, which are in great demand on the domestic and world markets.
In winter, the squirrel has a low, straight and soft, dense fur of gray color. In summer it has a low fur of red or black-brown color. In the guard hair, the cor­tical layer is 20 % of the entire hair thickness, and in the downy hair – 60 %. Its fur contains mostly downy hair. The skin is dense and at the same time thin. It has fat inclusions. The color of the ridge and sides in winter is from light to dark gray; the body is white throughout the year. The tail is lush. The skins of Sibe­rian strains have a beautiful fur and they are produced in their natural form. The rest strains are dyed black or brown using oxidation dyes. The average weight of the skins is 21–40 g, depending on the strain. The length of the squirrel skin is from 20 to 30 cm.
Preliminary processing. Squirrel skins are removed in the form of tube while saving the fur of the method.
Squirrel skins are sorted according to GOST 6374-66. They are divided according to ridges, grades (I–III) and groups of defects.
Application. Squirrel skins are used to make women's and children's fur coats, jackets, stoles, collars, and hats. They are also used to decorate the outer dress.
Squirrel skins are not sheared or plucked, but the ridges are dyed brown to imitate a mink skin.
Sorting. The processed undyed and dyed skins squirrels are sorted accord­ing to GOST 12780-67. Undyed skins are subdivided according to strains; the degree of color purity. Dyed skins are subdivided according to the softness (two groups). Undyed and dyed skins are subdivided according to strains, grades (I, II, III); groups of defects (1–4).
Dyed skins are divided into two groups. The first group includes the skins of the Siberian strain, the second – of the North European and central strains. The semi-finished product of the first group has a fluffy soft fur, the second group has a less fluffy and coarser fur.
Depending on the quality of the fur, the squirrel skins, ridges and casings are subdivided into grades in the same way as the skins, ridges and uncut pelts.
67
Marking. Digital designations are applied on the skin surface in the fol- lowing order. For undyed skins and squirrel ridges, the first number indicates the strain, the second – the degree of color purity, the third – the grade, and the fourth – the group of defects. For dyed skins, the first number indicates the group, the second is the size of the dyed ridges, the third is the grade, and the fourth is the group of defects.
Typically, soaking and pickling are carried out in the same equipment without unloading the skins. The soaking solution contains oat flour, which contributes to obtaining a rough skin, which facilitates subsequent fleshing. Mainly, chrome tanning is used for squirrel skins. The basicity of a chrome tanning agent is 10–15 %.
Mountain sand and oat flour are used for the process of intermediate drumming. The final drumming is carried out in sawdust.
1.4.3. Mink skins
There are two types of minks in Russia: European and American. The European mink is widespread in the European part of Russia, in Western Siberia, and Western Kazakhstan. American mink was brought to Russia in 1928 from North America for breeding in fur farms. Since 1933, the mink, raised in captivity (cage breeding), has been released into the hunting grounds of the Far East, Siberia, the Urals, Bashkortostan, and Tatarstan, where it has successfully acclimatized.
The economic value of wild mink pelts is small. The market of caged mink skins has increased annually, and now they occupy a leading place in the world fur trade.
Compared to European minks, American minks are larger and have a higher quality of fur. The mink is a relatively small animal. The body length (from the tip of the nose to the root of the tail) is on average 50–70 cm for males, and 40–60 cm for females.
Minks with a dark brown color, similar to the color of a wild (free) mink, are called standard. In addition to the standard ones, colored minks are bred. The diversity is due to the mutation of genes that determine the color of the pubescence of standard minks, as well as combinations of mutant genes. Currently, more than 2000 colored types of mink are known, of which
68
about 30 are used for industrial production of fur skins. Due to the variety of colors, strength and beauty of fur skins, as well as a large number of different products made from this fur, mink was recognized as the "queen" furs.
Captive-bred minks are very varied in fur coloration, while wild minks
are only available in brown shades.
Preliminary processing. Mink skins should be removed with a tube cut along the rump, saving the fur of the head (with nose and ears), paws and tail. The skins should be shaped symmetrically and stretched in width with the tail along the length. The skins are preserved by the fresh-dry method.
Wild mink and graded mink skins are sorted according to GOST 7908­69 and GOST 27769-88, respectively. The skins are divided according to grades (I–II – for graded mink, I–III – for wild mink); groups of defects; color and size (graded mink skins), strains (wild mink skins). Graded male and female mink skins are sorted separately.
The quality of the skins depends on the fur which changes according to the seasons of the year. Minks change their fur twice a year: in spring and autumn.
Batching. Mink skins are batched by color (brown and colored); sizes (extra large, large, medium and small); grades; groups of defects.
Mink skins have an exceptionally beautiful fur. Therefore, they are pro­duced in natural form. The mass of the mink skin in the raw material is 60 g.
The skins are fleshed using special device to exclude possible damage to the skin. The technology includes many finishing operations for skin and fur (drumming, stretching and stacking).
Application. Mink skins are used to make collars, hats (for women and men), women's fur coats, stoles, semi-veneers and gorgets. In addition, mink skins are used for decorating women's clothing. Decorations are made from paws. Women's hats and collars are made from tails.
The skins should be removed in the form of tube, saving the head (with the nose and ears), paws, tail and symmetrically straightened. Tears, holes, bald patches, worn spots, areas with a bat or chipped awn should be repaired without breaking the symmetry of the skin. Inserts and attachments should be selected taking into account the quality and color of the fur and should not stand out against the general background.
Sorting. The processed mink skins of wild and graded animals are sorted according to GOST 10322-71.
Wild mink skins are divided into groups of fur quality (instead of strains), sizes, grades (I, II, III) and groups of defects. Graded mink skins are divided by fur color into 18 colors, by size, by grades and groups of defects.
69
Depending on the quality of the fur, wild mink skins are divided into three groups. Wild and graded mink skins are divided by size into five groups. According to the quality of the fur, graded mink skins are divided into two grades (I, II), and wild – into three grades (I, II, III) according to the same characteristics as uncut mink skins.
There are four groups of defects.
Marking. The manufacturer's trademark and the letter B for wild ani­mals are applied on the skin surface. The numbers indicate the quality group (for wild mink skins), color (for graded mink skins), size, grade, defect group, release date, and when delivered to the retail network, the standard number and retail price.
Mink skin processing technology. Russian Research Institute of Fur In­dustry has developed the special technology for processing mink skins. The float rate of the technological solutions is 15.
First, the skins are washed at 30–33 ºС for 3–4 hours. The bath compo­sition is Effect M (1.0 g/dm
3
). Then, the skins are sammed, turned inside out and stackled for 30 minutes, after which they are straightened and sent to the stage of soaking. The soaking process is carried out at 30–35 ºС for 14– 16 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (20.0 g/dm Gamma 3 (1.0 g/dm
3
); Gamma 1 (2.0–3.0 g/dm3); Antiseptic FH (1.0 g/dm3).
3
);
Next, the skins are sammed, drummed, fleshed, and degreased. Degreasing is carried out at 35 ºС for 2 hours. The composition of the bath is: Tetramol (1.0–2.0 g/dm
3
); Gamma 3 (1.0 g/dm3). After degreasing, the skins are sent
to the currying process.
Pickling is carried out at 30 ºС for 16–20 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (50.0 g/dm (4.0–5.0 g/dm
3
); lactic acid (4.0-6.0 g/dm3). Then, the skins are ageing for
3
); Gamma 2 (1.0 g/dm3); formic acid
24–48 hours.
Next, the skins are sammed, straightened, fleshed, stretched, tanned, and greased. Tanning and greasing lasts 12 hours at 35 ºС in the solution containing: sodium chloride (50.0 g/dm carbonate (1.5 g/dm ning M (9.0 g/dm
3
, up to the pH of 6.5–7.0); Mexinol (3.0 g/dm3); Tan-
3
). At the end of tanning, the skins are sent to the stage of
3
); Gamma 1 (1.0 g/dm3); sodium bi-
soaking which takes 2–4 hours.
The processof greasing is carried out at 40 ºС for 6 hours. The compo­sition of the bath is: sodium chloride (20.0 g/dm (30.0 g/dm
3
); Mexinol (3.0 g/dm3). After that, the skins are ageing for 2–
3
); potassium alum
4 hours. The following processing is carried out according to the standard technology.
70
Lowenstein has developed the technology of processing mink skins. The float rate of the technological solutions is 12. Preparatory processes begin with soaking, which is carried out at 30 ºС for 4–8 hours. The working solution contains: sodium chloride (20.0 g/dm After that, the skins are turned inside and sent to the stage of wet drumming. It takes in a drum for 30 minutes (for 15 kg of sawdust, 15–25 dm
3
); Wetter HAC (1.0 g/dm3).
3
of liquid
coming from soaking is used).
Then, the second process of soaking is carried out at 30 ºС for 16– 18 hours). Bath composition is: sodium chloride (40.0 g/dm (1.0 g/dm
3
). Then, the process of wet drumming is repeated for 15–
3
); Wetter HAC
45 minutes. Next, the skins are straightened, fleshed and sent to the washing process. Washing is carried out at 32 ºС for 1.5 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (30.0 g/dm (1.0 g/dm
3
). Next, the skins are sammed in a centrifuge and sent to the stage
3
); Solvo B (2.0 g/dm3); De-Sol-A
of currying.
Pickling is carried out at 35 ºС for 16–18 hours. Bath composition is: sodium chloride (50.0 g/dm (4.0 g/dm
3
). The skins are loaded into the bath. After 3 hours, formic acid is
dosed in the amount of 5.0 g/dm
3
); Wetter HAC (0.5 g/dm3); Super Lotan A
3
. Further, the skins are ageing for 12–
16 hours. Finally, they are sammed in a centrifuge.
The tanning process is carried out at 33 ºС for 16–18 hours. The com­position of the bath is: sodium chloride (50.0 g/dm num-ammonium) alum (45.0 g/dm
3
). The skins are loaded into the bath. Af-
ter 3 hours, Tanning Assist B is dosed in an amount of 4.5 g/dm
3
); aluminum (or alumi-
3
.
Next, the skins are sammed in a centrifuge, straightened to the width, cut, sammed again in a centrifuge, shaken, dried in a drum with sawdust (100–120 % of sawdust by weight), Then, the skins are shaken and greased.
The first greasing is carried out in a fat drum for 45 minutes using Mink Grease TP (and/or Friesol). The amount of a reagent should be 40 % of the mass of the skins. The fat is preheated to 43–45 ºС and poured into a drum with skins. After processing in a drum, the skins are sent to the opera­tion of milling for 1 hour. The temperature in the mill should be 37–40 ºС. Then, the skins are ageing for 12–14 hours. After that, they are drummed for 30 minutes in used sawdust. The amount of sawdust shoul be 50 % of the mass of the skins. Next, the skins are shaken, straightened to width, drummed (if necessary), and greased.
The second greasing is also carried out in a drum for 30 minutes using Mink Grease TP (and/or Friesol) – 20 % by weight of the skins. Then the process of milling is carried out for 1 hour. After thatm the skins are