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Processing Techniques for Different Furs. Tutorial

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wet sawdust is added and the bath rotates until the skins are soft. After drum­ming, the operations of shaking and stretching in length and width, drum­ming in clean sawdust (1 hour), shaking, drumming in fresh sawdust (2 hours or until the skins are completely cleaned), shaking and stretching in length are carried out.
1.2.2. Dog skins
The skins of northern hunting dogs (huskies) are distinguished by the best commercial properties. They are large in size and covered with tall, even thick, soft hair of various colors. Also, yard dogs are characterized by good quality of skins. Skins of indoor and hunting dogs are of poor quality due to their rare low hair.
Dog skins differ from wolf skins by the absence of hair zoning, an elon­gated awn on the back of the thighs, which forms a fringe ("breeches"). Com­pared to the wolf, the dog hair does not grow straight on the womb. The skin of dogs is stronger than wolf skins, since it does not have sweat glands.
Preliminary processing. The dog skins are removed in a layer, making a longitudinal incision exactly in the middle of the belly, while preserving the fur of the heads, paws, and tails. They are preserved by the fresh-dry, dry­salted and wet-salted methods.
Sorting. Dog skins are sorted according to GOST 12334-66. They are classified according to their size, grade and group of defects. According to their size, the skins are divided into large (more than 3000 cm (from 2000 to 3000 cm
2
), and small (from 1000 to 2000 cm2).
2
), medium
Depending on the quality of the hair, the skins of dogs are divided into three grades.
I grade includes full-haired skins with a tall or medium hair height, with frequent awn and thick down.
II grade includes full-haired skins with a low spine awn and thick down or skins with a coarse long hair.
III grade includes skins with low hair, almost fluff-free hair and coarse leather.
The fur quality depends on the year season and animal breed.
52
Depending on the defects, the skins of dogs are divided into groups of defects: the first group – 100 % without defects; the second group – 90 % without defects; the third group – 75 % without defects; the fourth group – 50 % without defects.
Early spring skins with high, but thinning hair (especially on the nape) are evaluated as I grade and the second group of defects.
Defects that are most common for dog skins include tears, holes, frayed spots, bald patches, sloping hair, and signs of shedding.
The skins of dogs with defects exceeding the standard valueestablished for the third group of defects, late spring skins in the molting stage, skins with an area of less than 1000 cm
2
, puppy skins, burnt skins, with flowing hairs are
evaluated no more than 25 % of the price of skins of I grade of large size.
There are discounts for dog skins which are established according to poor degreasing – 10%, poor drying – 10 %, absence of a head with a neck – 15 %.
Batching. Batches of skins are sorted by:
method of preservation;
size;
color;
grade;
defect;
skin thickness.
In accordance with GOST 2765-73, the skins of dogs are tobe processed in a layer saving their configuration. Undyed, dyed, sheared, unshorn dog skins are produced.
Depending on the fur quality, the dog skins are divided into three grades in accordance with the requirements of GOST 2765-73.
1.3. Spring types of fur raw materials
The fur industry processes a large number of spring types of raw mate­rials: skins of a mole, marmot, sandstone gopher, tarbagan, small rodents
53
(hamster, water rat and barn rat), etc. In early spring, rodents have fur of high quality. The fur retains good quality after animal awakening for 1–
1.5 months, A feature of hibernating rodents is that they molt once a year and their molt continues throughout the summer.
In autumn (sometimes in the second half of summer), the animals go into hibernation before the skin becomes full again. Therefore, the autumn сcropping is inappropriate. In winter, rodent hunting is impossible, since some animals (ground squirrels, marmots, etc.) lie dormant or go deep un­derground.
1.3.1. Mole skins
Moles live in the forest and forest-steppe zones of Russia, in the Urals, in Western and Eastern Siberia (Siberian mole), in the Far East (mogera). The most common Russian kinds of mole are European, Siberian, Far East­ern, and Caucasian moles.
Mole skins occupy a large share in the procurement of fur raw materials among spring species. Mole skins have short, soft, velvety fur of a dark steel or ash gray color. Sometimes, it has a slight brownish tint at the ends of the hair. The length of the skin is from 12 to 17 cm. In general, the mole skins are dyed. Products made from mole skins are graceful and beautiful, but have insufficient heat-shielding properties and low wear resistance.
Preliminary processing. The skin of the mole is removed in a layer without paws and tail. The skin is pulled outward, forming the shape of a rec­tangle. Mole skins are preserved by the fresh-dry method. Mole skins are sorted according to GOST 1337-67. They are divided according to groups of defects.
Batching. Mole skins are batched according to strains, defects and skin thickness (thickness < 0.5 mm or thickness > 0.5 mm).
Application. Mole skins are used to make women's coats, jackets and collars. They are not cut or plucked, but dyed.
The skins of the mole should be curried in a layer saving the configura­tion. The skina should be symmetrically straightened. The skin should be soft, clean, stretchy, evenly colored.
54
The fur of the mole should be clean, shiny, non-felted, and monochro­matic over the entire area. For undyed ones, it is allowed to have a border of a different color with a width of no more than 1.5 cm along the edges of the skin.
Sorting. Mole skins are sorted according to GOST 13315-88. Undyed skins are divided according to:
strains: European-Siberian - skins with soft or rough fur of ash gray or dark iron-grey color; Caucasian - skins with a soft velvety fur with a bluish tint;
sizes (extra large, large, medium, small);
grades (I grade – skins with high, even, dense fur; II grade – skins with
low and less dense fur);
groups of defects (1–4).
Marking. Mole skins are sorted according to strains, sizes, grades
and groups of defects. They are folded in pairs with fur inside and tied in bundles. The trademark of the manufacturer should be applied on the upper skin of each batch. In addition, the strain, size, grade and group of defects shoul be indicated.
Mole skins processing technology. According to the traditional tech­nology, the soaking of mole skins was carried out in baths at a temperature of 30 ºС in a solution containing sodium chloride, sodium fluorosilicate and surfactants. Fleshing was followed by softening and pickling. The working solution was prepared from oat flour, sodium chloride and sulfuric acid. The duration of the operation was 48–60 hours, depending on the strain. Then, the operations of fleshing and slicking were carried out. The skins were fleshed and sticked simultaneously using a cutter disk. The thickened places on the skins of Siberian and Bashkir moles were trimmed.
To curry mole skins, the process of multistage pickling is used. After soaking and samming, the skins are loaded into a bath containing: sodium chloride (50.0 g/dm temperature is 40 ºС. After 24 hours, the first portion of acetic acid (7.0 g/dm
3
) is added into the bath. After 36 hours, the second portion of ace­tic acid (10 g/dm posulfite (10 g/dm
3
); acetic acid (3.0 g/dm3); surfactant (1.0 g/dm3). Bath
3
) is added to the composition. After 42 hours, sodium hy-
3
) is introduced into the bath. The total process time is 60 hours. Further, all operations are carried out sequentially according to the technological map.
Skins, which are intended for dyeing gray, go through the stages of
chrome extract tanning (chromium oxide content is 1.5 g/dm
3
, basicity is
55
35 %), pressing and dyeing with hydrazine. Dyeing is carried out at the pH 8.5. After washing, the skins are salted in a bath containing sodium chloride, chromium extract and glycerin. Finally, drying and finishing oper­ations are carried out.
Skins intended for dyeing black, after fleshing and slicking are sent to the stage of combined operation of tanning and pickling. Firstly, the skins are tanned as described above. When the required shrinkage temperature is reached, a solution of chromic peak and copper sulfate is poured into the bath. The total duration of the process is 18–20 hours. Black dyeing is carried out with oxidation dyes (black D and pyrocatechol).
After washing and samming, theoperation of dip greasing follows. The float rate of the process is 8, temperature is 38 ºС. After two hours of greasing, sodium chloride and a surfactant are added into the bath. Further, drying and finishing operations are carried out.
Lowenstein has developed the following technology for mole skin pro­cessesing.
The soaking is carried out at a temperature of 27 ºС for 12–14 hours, in the presence of Wetter HAC (0.001 g/dm The float rate of the working solution is 8. After 30 minutes of rotation and 3 hours of rest, Super Lotan A (0.003 g/dm
3
) and Elbro 100-C (1.0 g/dm3).
3
) is dosed. Then, the centrifuge is rotaing for 10 minutes. After that, the skins are sammed, fleshed and tanned.
The tanning process is recommended to be carried out within 24 hours at a temperature of 38 ºС in the presence of the following reagents: sodium chloride (40.0 g/dm When the solution becomes clear, 3.5 sm
3
); Al-alum (50.0 g/dm3); Tanning Assist B (7.5 g/dm3).
3
of El-Cro-Tan is added. In
12 hours, the skins are sammed.
Tanning is followed by drumming in the presence of dry sawdust (100 % of the mass of the skins), as a result of which the skins should be about 75 % dry. Then, the skins are shaken for 30 minutes and greased in a bath for 2 hours. Nl Grease (1 cm
3
per skin) is used as a greasing agent. The skins of the mole should not be crumpled, as they are small and can be torn or damaged in a crusher. Then, the following processes and operations are repeated twice: drumming in utilized sawdust for 1 hour; shaking for 30 minutes; stretching. Then, drumming in clean sawdust is carried out again to clean the fur completely. After shaking, the final finishing operations are carried out.
56
1.3.2. Marmot skins
Marmots are rodents which live in the plains steppes. They have low (up to 3 cm high), adjacent, white, long fur. They inhabit the steppes of Transbaikalia, the valleys of Altai, Northern Kazakhstan and the Volga re­gion. The are also found in the mountains of Central Asia, Altai, Western Transbaikalia, Eastern Yakutia and the Kamchatka region.
Due to a small amount of fur raw materials obtained from the skins of marmots, their economic value is insignificant.
Preliminary processing. Marmot skins are removed in a layer with a longitudinal incision in the middle of the womb, in the inner side of the hind and front paws, along the rump and chest, while keeping the fur of the head which is fixed on the frames. They can be preserved using the fresh-dry or acid-salt methods.
According to GOST 11162-75, marmot skins are divided by strains, sizes, grades (I, II, III), and groups of defects.
Batching. Marmot skins are batched according to types, sizes, strains, colors, grades, and groups of defects. Marmot fur is changed only once a year – in the spring.
Application. Headdresses, collars, women's fur jackets, coats and men's jackets are made from marmot skins.
Marmot skins are made in a layer saving the configuration. They are not sheared and plucked, but they are dyed black to imitate a sable skin and brown to imitate a mink skin.
Sorting. Finished undyed and dyed skins are sorted according to GOST 11615-77. Depending on the quality of the fur, undyed marmot skins are sub­divided into strains: Trans-Baikal-Mongolian, Kazakh, European. Dyed skins are subdivided according to the softness of the fur into soft-haired – with thick, soft, shiny hair; coarse-haired – with shiny sparse hair with a coarse spine. There two groups of softness (only for dyed skins): soft­haired and coarse-haired skins. Dyed and undyed skins are classified into six sizes.
Marking. A four-digit number is applied on the surface of each skin. The first number indicates the strain or softness group, the second number indicated the size, the third is for the grade, the fourth number is used to define the group of defects.
57
Marmot skin processing technology. Pulkra (Boehme) has developed the processing technology for Mongolian fresh-dried marmot skins. All pro­cesses in liquid solutions occurring at a float rate of 15.
The first process is soaking, which is carried out at 25 ºС in the working solution containing sodium chloride (10.0 g/dm Foryla PK (1.0 g/dm
3
), and 30% formalin solution (0.5 g/dm3). Formalin is
3
), Atezana LPV (2.0 g/dm3),
added in four doses at intervals of 20 minutes. The skins are soaked for 12– 14 hours.
Further, the skins are sammed. Then, ear trimming, fleshing, drumming are carried out. The skins are drummed in wet sawdust (100 kg per 250 mar­mot skins) in the presence of Kutafix LGF. The process lasts for 1 hour, fol­lowed by shaking.
Then, the skins are washed at 35 ºС for 1–2 hours. The composition of the washing solution is: sodium chloride (10.0 g/dm (1.0 g/dm
3
); Foryl PK (2.0 g/dm3). Next, the skins are sammed in a centrifuge
3
); Atezan LPV
and slicked by a cutting disc. The operation of slicking may be used after pickling.
To pickle the skins, the water is mixed with sodium chloride (40.0 g/dm solution. After 1 hour from the beginning of pickling, 3.0 g/dm GLS is added. After 30 minute, a mixture of acids consisting of 57 % glycolic acid (4.0 g/dm (3.0 g/dm
3
) and Foryl PK (1.0 g/dm3). Then, the skins are loaded into the
3
) and 85% formic acid (4.0 g/dm3). After 1 hour, Tannit AGS
3
) is added. The process lasts 12-14 hours at 35 ºС. The pH at
3
of Pellan
the end of pickling is 2.8.
After pickling, the skins are tanned at the same temperature for 3.5–
4.0 hours in the working solution containing sodium chloride (40.0 g/dm and 85% formic acid (0.5 g/dm the solution in 30 minutes. After 1.5 hours, Pellana GLS (3.0 g/dm After 30 minutes, sodium carbonate (0.5 g/dm
3
). Tannita AGS (8.0 g/dm3) is added to
3
) is dosed. The skins are ro-
3
) is added.
3
tated in a centrifuge for 1 hour. After tanning, the skins should be soaked for 12 hours and sammed in a centrifuge.
Then, the skins are greased by wiping. The temperature of the process is 40 ºС. Working solution contains: water (500 cm 400 cm
3
), and Pellan GLS (100–200 cm3). After greasing, the skins are age-
3
), Pellan FSN (300–
ing for several hours. Finally, they are dried.
Then, the skins are sent to the stage of wet drumming for 2 hours in dry sawdust (100 kg) using the solution of water (20.0 dm (3.0 dm
3
). After shaking and straightening, the operation of dry drumming is
carried out (dry sawdust – 100 kg, Kutafix LGF – 2.5 dm
3
) and Softymol LGF
3
, Softymol CPH –
)
58
1.5 dm3). This process lasts for 2 hours. Then, the operations of shaking and straightening are repeated.
Finishing processes and operations are continued if they are required. Russian Research Institute of Fur Industry has developed the technology
for processing marmot skins. The float rate of all process solutions is 10.
Firstly, the skins are soaked at 30 ºС for 4–6 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (20.0 g/dm fect M (1.0 g/dm
3
).
3
); Preparation FKh (0.5 g/dm3); Ef-
Then, the skins are sent to the stage of the second soaking. The process temperature is 30 ºС and duration 18–20 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (20.0 g/dm (1.0 g/dm
3
); Gamma 1 (2.0 g/dm3).
After that, the skins are degreased at 38 ºС for 1 hour. The composition of the bath is: Tetramol (2.0–3.0 g/dm (1.0 g/dm
3
).
3
); Preparation FKh (0.5 g/dm3); Effect M
3
); Polyfix (0.5 g/dm3); Gamma 3
Then, the solution is drained out. The skins are cleaned with pure water at 30 ºС for 1 hour. After that, they are sammed.
Next, the process of pickling is carried out at 30 ºС for 14–16 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (50.0 g/dm (1.0 g/dm After 3 hours, formic acid (4.0 g/dm
3
). After 1 hour, lactic acid (4.0 g/dm3) is added to the solution.
3
) is dosed.
3
); Gamma 2
Finally, the skins are ageing for 24–48 hours.
Next operations are tanning and greasing. Theu are carried out at 40 ºС for 10–12 hours. The composition of the bath is: sodium chloride (50.0 g/dm agent (4.0 g/dm After 2 hours, aluminum-potassium alum is added (10.0 g/dm
3
); Gamma 3 (1.0 g/dm3); Mexinol (4.0 g/dm3); a chrome tanning
3
); sodium bicarbonate (1.5–2.0 g/dm3). The pH is 3.8–3.9.
3
).
Then, the skins are ageing for 24–48 часов. Finally, they are sammed and staked.
After that, the skins are greased at 45 ºС. The bath composition is: Mex­inol (400.0 g/dm
3
); 25% ammonia (5.0 g/dm3); Gamma 6 (100.0 g/dm3).
The consumption of emulsion is 30–40 g per skin.
The skins are ageing for 4–6 hours. Then, they are tumbled, dried, and perched. Then, the operation of drumming is carried out for 3–4 hours. The composition of the bath is: Gamma 7 (10-12 g per skin), Antistatic M (3–4 g per skin). Further processing is carried out according to the standard technology.
59
1.3.3. Large-toothed souslik skins
The large-toothed souslik lives in the Trans-Volga region, Kazakhstan and Central Asia. The economic value of large-toothed souslik skins is small, since the amount of their skins is not large.
The length of the skin is from 23 to 38 cm, the tail is from 6 to 12 cm. The color is monochromatic changing from pale reddish to pale sandy. The ridge is darker than the sides. The body is buffy-yellow. In the spinal part of the skin, there is a dark stripe at the ends of the guard hair. Winter fur is bright rusty in color. Large-toothed sousliks are hunted only in spring, in the first 1–1.5 months after the animal wakes up from hibernation.
Large-toothed sousliks inhabiting the steppe areas of Aktobe and adja­cent areas of the Kustanai and Karaganda regions (Kyrgyz sandstone) have the best quality of fur. Their skins are distinguished by a relatively thick and soft hair, a grayish coloration, and a frequent awn strongly darkened along the ridge. Large-toothed souslik skins from the Southern Trans-Volga region (Novokazankinsky sandstone) have a less dense and lower hair, a lighter color, with a predominance of reddish shades. The awn on the ridge is brown.
The skins of large-toothed sousliks inhibiting the lowland and foothill parts of Central Asia and South Kazakhstan (Central Asian sandstone) are not a good quality. The skins are small, with a low sparse hair of a very light (sandy yellow) color.
The skins of large-toothed sousliks differ from the skins of the Trans­Volga (reddish) ground squirrel in the absence of red spots on the cheeks and a solid yellow color.
Preliminary processing. The skins are removed in a layer saving the fur of the head, tail and paws without claws. They are preserved by the fresh-dry method.
According to GOST 12335-66, large-toothed souslik skins are divided by the size (large, medium, small), grades (I and II) and groups of defects.
Batching. Large-toothed souslik skins are batched according to their regions, sizes, grades, and groups of defects.
Application. Hats, collars, women's fur coats are made from large­toothed souslik skins. The skins are made in a layer, they are not sheared or plucked, but they are dyed brown to imitate the skin of minks.
Sorting. The processed undyed and dyed skins are sorted according to GOST 13220-67 and divided:
60
by size (large, medium and small);
by fur softness (soft-haired and rough-haired);
by grades (I and II);
by groups of defects (1–4).
Marking. A four-digit number is applied on the surface of each skin The first number indicates the size. The second number indicates the softness group. The third number is for the grade. The fourth number is used to define the group of defects.
Large-toothed souslik skins are processed according to the technology of processing marmot skins.
1.4. Winter types of fur raw materials
1.4.1. Muskrat skins
Muskrats are related to rodents. They are found is North America. The muskrat was first introduced to Russia in 1927. At present, it has been successfully acclimatized in water bodies of many republics, territories and regions.
Muskrat skins occupy a significant place in the total volume of procure­ments of fur raw materials.
The muskrat is similar to the water rat, but twice its size, it has a tail flattened from the sides and covered with scales. The length of the skin is from 30 to 35 cm. The height of the winter guard hairs of adult muskrats on the ridge is up to 25–26 mm, on the belly it is up to 20–22 mm. The height of the down on the ridge is 17–18 mm, on the belly it is 15 mm. Its fur con­sists of an elastic, shiny, dense awn of silky lead-rusty brown to black-brown color. Its ridge is colored darker than the belly.
Despite the fact that the muskrat has the best quality skin in late winter and early spring, the animal should be hunted in autumn or early winter, since the muskrat does not reproduce in winter and often dies, especially in deep­freezing water bodies.
.