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Файл:Conducting work on the maintenance of landscape architecture objects. Textbook
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- the frames are opened for watering 2–4 times a day (more often in sunny
weather, less often in cloudy weather);
- the temperature for rooting should be 20–25 °C.
Rooting occurs 8–12 days after planting. After rooting, when small shoots
form, the greenhouses are opened slightly. When the shoots begin to grow well, the
frames are removed.
After this, the cuttings are only watered and weeded. At the end of August they
are transplanted into open ground. For the winter, the plants are hilled up. Growth
stimulants are used to accelerate the process of root formation by processing cuttings.
Growth stimulants are chemicals (heteroauxin, beta-indolylbutyric acid, alphanaphthylacetic acid). They are used in very small concentrations and are poorly
soluble in cold water. When treating with stimulants, it is best to also add vitamins C
(ascorbic acid) or B1 (thiamine). When preparing aqueous and alcoholic solutions of a
stimulant or growth powder, add vitamins dissolved in a small amount of water. This
promotes rapid root formation and faster shoot growth.
The most commonly used methods for treating cuttings with growth
stimulants are:
- immersion of the lower ends in aqueous solutions of stimulants;
- immersion of the lower ends in alcohol solutions of stimulants;
- treatment with growth powder.
Treatment with aqueous solutions of stimulants is used more often than other
types, but in some cases other types are also used (for example, an alcohol solution).
To prepare an aqueous solution, a very low concentration of the stimulant is
required. To prepare it, take a sample of the stimulant, first dilute it in a small amount
of hot water or alcohol (96 %), and then add water to the desired concentration and
volume. When diluting a highly concentrated solution and prolonged treatment, the
substance will act as a poison on the plant. Weak concentrations will not have the
desired effect.
For good results, the cuttings are cut immediately before processing, and the
solution is also prepared immediately before processing. The treatment is carried out
at a temperature no higher than 20–23 °C, indoors in the shade. If the temperature is
too high, the stimulant also has a toxic effect on plants.
To process the cuttings, 30–50 pieces are tied with twine (bast), so that the lower
ends are at the same level, and the lower ends are immersed with the lower ends in a
freshly prepared solution of the stimulant/its mixture with vitamins C and B1.
Processing is carried out in glass, enamel or porcelain containers (jars, cups,
etc.). To determine the depth of immersion in the solution, important data is whether
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the cuttings are green or lignified, as well as their length. If the cuttings are green, we
will immerse them to 2–4 cm, to a length of no more than 1/3 of the total length, and
keep for no more than 10–15 hours. Semi-resurgent cuttings are immersed to 1/2 or
2/3 of the length.
Alcohol solutions are rarely used and only for those plants that cannot withstand
prolonged treatment in water, rare and valuable plants. The preparation method is as
follows: for 1 ml of 50 % alcohol take 8–10 mg of heteroauxin or indolylbutyric acid
and 4–6 mg of naphthylacetic acid, you can add vitamins in the following doses:
vitamin C — 20–50 mg/ml 50 % alcohol, vitamin B1 — 2–20 mg/ml. When adding
vitamins, you must first dissolve them in water.
Growth powder for dry processing is prepared from a mixture of talc/charcoal
with growth stimulants. The proportions for its preparation are as follows:
heteroauxin, indolylbutyric or naphthylacetic acid are taken at the rate of 1–30 mg
per 1 g of talc or charcoal. The stimulant is first dissolved in water.
The aqueous solution is mixed with the other ingredients until uniform, dried in
a dark place at a temperature of 50–70 °C. The drug content in the powder may vary
depending on the desired concentration and activity. Vitamins can be added at the
following rate: vitamin C — 50–100 mg/g talc or charcoal, vitamin B1 — 5–10 mg/g.
Store the prepared mixture in a tightly closed container in a dark place.
To treat cuttings, their lower parts are moistened with water and dipped in
growth powder. Then the substrate is planted and compacted.
2.4. VACCINATIONS. METHODS AND MEANINGS OF VACCINATIONS
Grafting is the connection of a cutting (twig) of a scion or its eye (bud) with a
rootstock. This is indirect vegetative propagation of plants, which is divided into
copulation (grafting with cuttings) and budding (grafting with an eye).
Copulation should be performed in the spring, before the buds swell. There are
two common copulation methods that are most often used in stone fruit trees:
- mating method (copulation) — used if the thickness of the scion and
rootstock are the same;
- reed mating method (English copulation) — used if the thickness of the
rootstock is greater than the thickness of the scion.
The joining of the rootstock to the scion is carried out by splitting, at the butt,
by the bark or on a “goat’s leg”.
When performing copulation, first of all, suitable shoots are selected for
copulation. Scion cuttings should be cut from healthy shoots that are no more than
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one year old, preferably from the south side of the crown. “Wolf” shoots (long, lush
shoots growing upward), as well as shoots that are more than one year old, are not
suitable for copulation.
At the end of the rootstock, on the opposite side of the intended cut site, you
should leave a bud that will attract plant sap to the grafted area. The lower bud also
remains on the scion: it should be located opposite the cut surface (in the upper part).
Sections of the scion and rootstock are made with a sharp copulating knife, and their
surfaces must be clean, smooth and of the same length.
It is desirable that the scion cut has a larger cutting surface, which gives better
engraftment. Next, the scion is placed on the rootstock so that the tissue of both parts at
the border between the bark and wood (i. e., cambium) coincides. The cambium must
coincide on at least one side if the cut on the rootstock is wider than on the scion.
The scion is firmly tied to the rootstock, while the binding should be sparse and
it should start from the middle of the cut, first going up, then turn around and go down,
where a knot is tied. Between the specially left gaps (between the turns of the binding),
the scion and rootstock will subsequently thicken. The connected rootstock and scion
are carefully covered with garden varnish, especially the place where they meet.
As soon as the scion and rootstock grow together well, the tie on the opposite
side from the cut (on the rootstock) is cut with a knife so that the tie loosens. If the
buds at the grafting site have sprouted, then only the necessary young branches
should be left, and the rest should be cut off. The remaining shoots are tied to a
support to prevent them from breaking.
Budding should be performed in the summer at the moment when the cut bark
is easily separated from the wood. The main indicator of a plant’s readiness for
budding is the circulation of juice, so if some rootstocks lose juice quickly enough,
then they should be budding earlier.
Preparation for budding is as follows. First of all, the rootstock must have
enough juice and therefore, if the weather was dry the day before, it should be well
watered. About two weeks before budding, all side shoots are cut off and the trunk is
cleared to 20 cm in height. Immediately before budding, the earth is raked away from
the tree, while the trunk is cleaned with a soft rag.
The scion (cuttings with eyes) can be cut the day before budding, but it is best
before grafting. Branches from the southern side of a healthy tree are selected as such
cuttings; they must be mature. How mature a branch is can be determined by bending
it: mature branches make a cracking noise.
To prevent the eyes of the prepared scion from fading and the moisture from
evaporating excessively, the leaves are immediately removed from it, but the leaf
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petioles (about 1 cm long) are left. If the scion is cut in advance, it should be wrapped
in a damp cloth and stored in a cool, dark place until budding.
When performing budding, it is very important not to touch the cutting areas of
the rootstock and scion with your hands. First of all, the eyes are cut out from the
scion. They need to be cut from the middle part, where they are more developed. To
do this, the scion is taken with the left hand with the tip towards you.
Next, using a sharp budding knife, you need to cut off the bark shield with an
eye about 3 cm long. After the cut, as little wood as possible should remain on the
shield, and the eye itself should be located, if possible, in the center of the shield. If the
wood is quite thick, then it is best to carefully pick out the eye without damaging it.
After this, a smoother place on the western or northern side is selected on the
rootstock, where a T-shaped cut is made. First of all, the bark is cut across (about
1 cm), and then perpendicularly from bottom to top (about 3 cm). The bark is pulled
apart with a knife and a shield is inserted under it. In this case, the eye should be
approximately 1 cm below the cross section.
The bark of the rootstock is pressed tightly against the shield, and the
protruding part of the shield (at the site of the cross-section) is cut off with a knife.
The budding area is tightly and firmly tied with soft bast or vinyl chloride insulating
tape. The binding must begin from the bottom.
After the first turn, the tape must be secured by placing its short end under the
long one. After budding, the soil is raked up to the rootstock right up to the eye, which
will help better implantation of the graft and also protect the grafted area from pests.
2.5. PESTS
There are quite a large number of different types of pests of trees and shrubs.
All existing pests can be divided into several groups.
The first group is sucking pests. These include:
- aphids;
- psyllids/sweetweeds (produce a sugary sticky mass);
- mites (spider mites, brown mites, gall mites, flat beetles).
The second group is pests of generative organs. These include:
- fruit weevils (weevils and tubeworms, up to 10 species);
- Tropinota hirta;
- apple flower beetle;
- May beetles;
- various caterpillars.
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The group of leaf-eating pests includes the following representatives:
- Pieridae;
- Lymantriinae;
- Lasiocampidae;
- Arctiinae;
- Naxa seriaria;
- Moth.
The next group is trunk and wood pests, we list them:
- plum scale insect;
- Californian scale insect;
- Lepidosaphes ulmi;
- Parthenolecanium corni Bouche;
- Quadraspidiotus perniciosus;
- Zeuzera pyrina;
- goat moth;
- Synanthedon myopaeformis;
- Tetrops praeustus;
- Scolytus rugulosus;
- Scolytus mali;
- European shothole borer.
As a result of the actions of such pests, branches can die off completely; plants
affected by them are characterized by slow growth, general weakening, and poor
flowering.
Root system pests:
- mole cricket;
- Melolonthinae larvae;
- jewel beetles.
Ornamental shrubs are very often affected by various pests. The first method of
pest control is indirect, agrotechnical, and involves the correct selection of a site,
selection of plants according to their properties and adaptability to other climatic
conditions, selection and placement of cultivated plants.
The mechanical method is the destruction of pests at various stages, removal of
nests, larvae, pests themselves, destruction of oviposition, the use of trapping belts
and tying trunks against mice and other rodents.
For the prevention and control of pests, it is recommended to treat plants with
protective compounds (chemical method of pest control).
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The biological method is the use of birds and other animals that eat pests, but
this method also has disadvantages — for example, in addition to destroying pests,
tits can also eat fruits from trees.
These methods must be used comprehensively.
To use the first method (agrotechnical), you must:
- choose the right site for planting so that groundwater is not nearby;
- grow plant varieties adapted to the climate and growing conditions existing
on the site;
- before planting, inspect seedlings for the presence of diseases and pests;
- study what preparations and fertilizers each plant will be treated with, do not
plant nearby those plants that do not tolerate chemicals used to treat neighboring
plants;
- take into account the height of the plants so that in the future they do not
interfere with the growth of neighboring plants;
- regularly burn weeds and fallen leaves.
The chemical method of pest control is considered the most effective. To
combat each pest there are certain chemical compositions. For example, against such
lilac pests as the Naxa seriaria and Gracillaria syringella, they are treated with
karbofos, decis, and kinmiks in the first half of September, and they also dig the
ground around the bushes as deep as possible. If the plant is very badly damaged and
50 % of the bush or more is affected, it is better to dig up and burn the affected bush
to prevent the spread of the pest.
Against the Stephanitis rhododendri, treatment with 0.1–0.2 % malathion or
0.2 % phosphamide emulsion is used. Against spider mites, spraying with 0.1–0.3 %
keltan emulsion or 0.2 % phosphamide emulsion is used, which is repeated 2–3 times
every 6–8 days. Nowadays there are a lot of preparations for treating plants; for each
pest and plant you can choose the appropriate preparation.
There are also a large number of diseases of ornamental shrubs and trees,
these are:
- brown spot (phyllostictosis);
- powdery mildew;
- bacterial burn (bacterial shoot rot, wet burn);
- bacterial necrosis;
- root rot;
- rust, and others.
Let's consider methods of combating certain types of diseases.
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Brown spot (phyllostictosis) is characterized by the formation of gray-brown
spots with a dark brown border on the leaves. Later, dark brown dots appear,
gradually the spots merge into a continuous surface, and the leaves dry out. The fight
against the disease consists of removing and burning the leaves, reducing the daily
watering rate, treating the bush with 1 % Bordeaux mixture, repeating the treatment
after 20 days.
Powdery mildew is characterized by the appearance on leaves and shoots of a
coating similar to a layer of flour. For prevention, bushes are treated with sulfur
3–4 times a season; to remove plaque, dilute 4 g of soda ash and soap in 1 liter of
water, stir and use for spraying, which is carried out 2 times with a week break.
Bacterial burn (bacterial shoot rot, wet burn) causes the plant to slowly wither,
wet spots appear on the roots, which increase and darken; at an advanced stage,
elliptical spots cover the entire plant; dark brown stripes appear on the stems and
leaves, similar to for scratches.
The main means of control is spraying with Bordeaux mixture. Proportions are
determined depending on the stage of the disease.
Bacterial necrosis — with this disease, the leaves of plants acquire a gray tint,
and the branches become brown. Spraying with copper oxychloride and Bordeaux
mixture helps well against illness.
Root rot — with this disease, the leaves of the bush wither, as if in drought; the
roots of the affected bush will have a black tint and an unpleasant odor. Spraying
with Bordeaux mixture helps against the disease.
Rust is an accumulation of fungi in the form of spots, stripes similar to
scratches, or pads. The main means of control is spraying with 0.2 % benlate, also
with a 0.5–0.7 % captan suspension.
2.6. PLANTING AN ORCHARD AND CARING FOR IT
An orchard is a perennial planting; mistakes made during its construction are
difficult to eliminate. It is necessary for the garden to bear fruit abundantly and for a
long time. It is necessary to comply with soil and climatic conditions, correct
placement of varieties, quality of planting material, as well as agricultural technology
for planting trees.
Before planting a garden, it is necessary to assess the location of the site in
terms of suitability. It is necessary to assess the depth of groundwater, the direction of
the slope and steepness, the structure and features, the mechanical composition of the
soil, as well as the soil-forming rock.
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If the area is suitable in all respects, it is necessary to determine the usable
area.
Usable area is the area occupied by fruit and berry plantings. Garden
protection strips occupy 15–18 % of the area. The larger the area, the smaller the
garden protection strips (for an area of more than 100 hectares — 15 %). To
determine the amount of material for planting, the optimal area for plant nutrition is
established (depending on the variety).
Methods of planting plants — square planting at equal distances in rows and row
spacing. Rectangular planting — wider row spacing than row spacing. Checkerboard
planting allows you to place more plants, but eliminates mechanized processing.
Contour — trees are placed in rows, horizontally across the slopes (it is used
on slopes).
Apple trees are usually planted with summer, autumn and winter varieties.
Apple trees are self-sterile; pollination with their own pollen is not enough. It is
necessary to grow several varieties of apple trees that bloom and bear fruit at the
same time. You cannot plant different varieties in one row; with row spacing of 7 m,
it is necessary to place them on no more than 7 rows, since the distance between
2 varieties should be no more than 40–50 m.
For apple and pear trees choose 8–10 varieties, 2–3 summer, 3–4 autumn and
3–4 winter. Preference is given to winter-hardy varieties (70–80 % of plantings).
Berries, cherries and plums are selected in 3 varieties, early ripening, mid ripening
and late ripening.
A large garden for industrial purposes takes 3–5 years to establish, the soil is
prepared, fertilizers are applied, and garden protective plantings are planted. In
autumn, currants, raspberries, and gooseberries are planted. Cherries, plums and pears
are planted in the spring. Apple trees are planted in both autumn and spring.
The predecessors of an orchard can be various crops. Soil preparation varies.
Soil preparation consists of reclamation, drainage (at low groundwater levels),
reduction of acidity, carbonate content, application of organic and mineral fertilizers,
and deep plowing.
The plot is laid out a month before planting the garden, determining where to
dig holes and installing pegs. The holes are dug mainly mechanically.
Before planting, soil with humus, leaf soil and sometimes superphosphate
(150 g) are added to the dug holes. Draw up a work schedule.
Caring for an orchard varies depending on the period of life of the trees. In a
young garden, it is necessary to correctly form the tree crown, ensure rapid growth,
protect the trees from diseases and improve the quality of the soil. Caring for a
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mature garden should ensure a bountiful annual harvest and prolong the fruiting
period.
Currently, low, small-sized crowns are being formed. This improves the
lighting conditions for the trees and makes it easier to maintain. Pruning is done to
regulate the growth of trees, as well as for sanitary purposes.
Pruning is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the variety and
the age of the tree. Pruning can be shortening, thinning, subordinating, or transferring
branches. They also pinch and bend the branches.
Formative pruning is carried out at a young age. At the same time, the
necessary crown shape is created and fruiting is accelerated. Pruning to regulate
fruiting is carried out on an adult tree and then throughout the entire life cycle of the
tree. It helps achieve optimal growth and fruiting. Anti-aging pruning is carried out
when annual growth decreases to 15 cm or less. Its role increases with the age of the
tree. Pruning to reduce height and limit the volume of crowns helps increase
productivity and reduces labor costs.
Caring for an orchard in spring involves many operations. Trimming is carried
out at a temperature not lower than –4 degrees. The cut should be smooth,
perpendicular to the main axis of the branch. Sections and cuts with a diameter of
2 cm or more are treated with oil paint or garden varnish. Next, moss and lichens are
removed, trunks and skeletal branches are treated with a stiff brush.
To control pests in early spring, trees are sprayed before the buds open (200 g
of 30B, 70 g of urea, 50 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water), then over the
swollen buds (1 % Bordeaux, insecticide and fungicide mixture), after rose buds
(insecticide, fungicide), during leaf formation (iron sulfate).
Also in the spring, trees are fed with complex mineral fertilizers. They are
brought under the tree, organic ones are diluted with water.
When trees become icy, place supports under the affected branches, carefully
shake off the adhering ice, and preventively spray the trees with a lime solution
(10 liters of water, 0.5 kg of lime, 1.5 kg of clay or sand), then the ice crust is easier
to shake off the tree.
Summer care of an orchard consists of fertilizing, freeing trees from excess
ovaries and rotten fruits. The tree trunk circle is watered and mulched. The row
spaces sown with green manure are periodically mowed. Hunting belts are put on
trees to combat the codling moth. The belt is made from tow, burlap, and paper.
Strengthen at a distance of 20 cm from the ground level, no gaps are allowed. Pests
are removed every 4 days.
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Autumn care involves taking care of the tree, especially in bad weather
conditions. Sanitary pruning is also performed. If necessary, water the tree. The
area is cleared of leaves, falling fruits, and twigs. The trunks and skeletal branches
are whitened. Treatment against pests is carried out, the last spraying is carried out
when the leaves of the tree are shed. The tree trunk circle is also treated (copper
sulfate, urea).
In winter, it is necessary to retain snow in the garden, protect it from rodents,
frost and sunburn.
2.7. BULBOUS AND CORM CROPS
Bulbous
Lily — erect stems; the leaves are narrow-lanceolate from light green to dark
green, the flowers are regular, the color is different.
Narcissus — height about 30 cm, leaves are linear, bluish-green, flowers
consist of 6 perianth petals and a corolla in the center; the color is varied, blooms in
May or early June. There are a lot of varieties.
Tulip — height from 30 cm, erect stem, apical inflorescence, there are 7 main
flower shapes: goblet, cup-shaped, oval, linear, parrot-shaped, double and starshaped.
Tuberous
Anemone — dissected leaves collected in rosettes, erect stem; The flowers are
large, there are simple, semi-double and double forms, the color is different, it
blooms in August-September.
Tuberous begonia has a succulent, translucent stem, heart-shaped leaves.
There are simple, terry and semi-double forms. Flower shape: rose-shaped,
narcissus-shaped, peony-shaped. The color is dark red, yellow, orange. Blooms
from June until frost.
Dahlia — an erect stem; palmate leaves; inflorescence of baskets; the structure
of the flower depends on the variety; color from white to dark purple; blooms from
late July until frost.
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