- •Contents at a Glance
- •Contents
- •Hardware Hacks
- •GPS Secrets
- •Hidden Secrets
- •Garmin Secret Screens
- •Hard Resets
- •Soft Resets
- •Warm Resets
- •Full GPS Resets
- •Diagnostic Screens
- •Autolocating
- •Magellan Secret Screens
- •Magellan Meridian Series
- •After a Hard or Soft Reset
- •Summary
- •Cables Demystified
- •The Data Cable
- •Power Cords
- •Combo Cables
- •Combining Cable Types
- •Multi-GPS Cables
- •Multi-Data Cables
- •Multi-Data/Power Cables
- •Multi-Data/Power/GPS Cables
- •Making Your Own Data Cables
- •Materials You Will Need
- •Don’t Want to Buy a Connector?
- •Making Power Cords
- •Power Cord Assembly
- •Testing
- •Precautions
- •GPS/iPAQ Connections
- •Cradle Modification
- •Testing the Connection
- •Making Combo Cables
- •Making Multi Cables
- •Summary
- •Power Hacks
- •GPS Power Needs
- •Alkaline Batteries
- •Lithium Batteries
- •Rechargeable (NiMH) Batteries
- •Battery Do’s and Don’ts
- •Power Hacks
- •Carrying Your Own 12-Volt Power Supply
- •Battery Packs
- •A Different Kind of Battery Pack
- •Alternative Power Supplies
- •Summary
- •Antenna Hacks
- •The GPS Antenna
- •Quad-Helix Orientation
- •Patch Antenna Orientation
- •Best Performance Summary
- •External Antennas
- •Antenna Placement
- •Other Things to Avoid
- •Reradiating Antennas
- •Personal Reradiating Antenna
- •Communal Reradiating Antenna
- •Reradiating Antenna Considerations
- •Setting Up a Reradiating Antenna in a Car
- •Testing the System
- •Making the System Permanent
- •Carrying a GPS Signal via Cable
- •How Much Signal Do You Need?
- •Cable Losses
- •Connector Losses
- •Using a Signal Repeater
- •Building Your Own Mega GPS Antenna
- •Materials
- •Building the Antenna
- •Summary
- •Screen Damage
- •Screen Protectors
- •More Screen Armoring
- •Commercial Protection for GPS and PDAs
- •Mounting GPS
- •Car Mounting
- •Mounting a GPS for Biking, Hiking, and Skiing
- •Making a Personalized Case
- •Summary
- •Software Hacks
- •Hacking the Firmware
- •Firmware
- •Updating Warnings
- •Updating the Firmware
- •Hacking GPS Firmware
- •Bypassing the Garmin eTrex Vista Startup Screen
- •Bypassing the Garmin eTrex Legend Startup Screen
- •Bypassing the Garmin eTrex Venture Startup Screen
- •MeMap Personalization
- •Manual Firmware Editing
- •Magellan GPS Firmware Modifications
- •Recovering from a Failed Firmware Load
- •Garmin
- •Magellan
- •Summary
- •Connection Types
- •Which Connection Is Best?
- •Troubleshooting Problems
- •PC Connection Trouble
- •General PDA Connection Trouble
- •General Bluetooth Connection Trouble
- •Software-Specific Issues
- •Erratic Mouse Pointer after Connecting a GPS
- •Windows XP Problem: Microsoft Ball Point
- •Microsoft MapPoint Troubleshooting
- •USB-to-Serial Converters
- •Summary
- •GPS Data Collection
- •Position, Velocity, Time
- •Waypoints
- •Working with the Data
- •EasyGPS
- •G7toWin
- •Creative Uses of GPS Data
- •Sharing Waypoints
- •Adding GPS Information to Digital Photos
- •Lightning Detector and Plotter
- •Wardriving
- •GPS in Programming
- •Summary
- •Examining the Data
- •NMEA
- •NMEA Sentences
- •NMEA Sentence Structure
- •A Closer Look at NMEA Sentences
- •Examining NMEA Sentences
- •NMEA Checksum
- •SiRF
- •Using NMEA Sentences
- •GPS NMEA LOG
- •GPS Diagnostic
- •RECSIM III
- •Using NMEA
- •GpsGate
- •Recording Actual NMEA Sentences with GpsGate
- •Recording Simulated NMEA Using GpsGate
- •Data Playback
- •Why Bother with NMEA?
- •Ensuring That Your GPS Works
- •Avoiding Data Corruption
- •Summary
- •More Data Tricks
- •Screenshots
- •G7toWin
- •G7toCE
- •Turning Your PC into a High-Precision Atomic Clock
- •Setting Up the Software
- •Setting Up the Hardware
- •Hooking Up Hardware to Software
- •Bringing a GPS Signal Indoors
- •Other Uses for GPS Data
- •Azimuth and Elevation Graphs
- •Surveying
- •Navigation
- •Signal Quality/SNR Window
- •NMEA Command Monitor
- •Experiment for Yourself
- •Summary
- •Playtime
- •Hacking Geocaching
- •GPS Accuracy
- •The Birth of Geocaching
- •Geocaching Made Simple
- •What Is Geocaching?
- •Geocaching from Beginning to End
- •The Final 20 Yards
- •Geocaching Hacks
- •Go Paper-free
- •Plan Before You Leave
- •Sort Out Cabling
- •Power for the Trip
- •Better Antennas
- •Protecting the GPS
- •Summary
- •GPS Games
- •The Dawn of GPS Games
- •Points of Confluence
- •Benchmarking/Trigpointing
- •GPS Drawing
- •Hide-and-Seek
- •Foxhunt
- •Other Games
- •Summary
- •GPS Primer
- •The GPS Network
- •How GPS Works
- •GPS Signal Errors
- •Summary
- •Glossary
- •Index
272 Part IV — Playtime
TomTom software offers mapping information for all of the U.S. and Europe. European countries and the American states are all available separately.
TomTom takes most of the guesswork out of road navigation, because as well as route planning, TomTom Navigator can also provide you with voice instructions to help you get where you want to go. If you get into a traffic jam or are detoured, there’s no need to worry because TomTom will keep track of your location in real time via GPS and plan a new route, automatically updating the remaining distance and estimated time of arrival. It also contains some superb features such as night vision mode, which enables you to drive more easily during hours of darkness (see Figure 11-15).
FIGURE 11-15: TomTom’s night vision mode
Remember too that TomTom Navigator is useful for more than just geocaching!
Route-planning software isn’t of much use when it comes to actually finding the cache. Software for use when you are driving rarely requires the same level of accuracy and is unlikely to give you reliable distance and heading information when you are 50 yards or less from the cache. At that point, you need the precision of the GPS interface to navigate the final few yards.
Sort Out Cabling
If you are going to connect your GPS to a PDA and possibly want to power your GPS from an alternative power supply, make sure that you have all the cables you need with you. A sample is shown in Figure 11-16.
Clearly label each of your cables, as shown in Figure 11-17. This way, if you have more than one GPS or PDA, you won’t get confused and take the wrong cable or damage something trying to fit the wrong connector into the socket. Make life even easier on yourself by labeling the cable at both ends, detailing what the connector fits.
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FIGURE 11-16: Cables needed for a geocache trip
FIGURE 11-17: Clearly labeled cables
274 Part IV — Playtime
In addition, because you are going to be outdoors, take care that dirt and water don’t get into the cable connectors. Some connectors (such as the serial connector on an iPAQ) are quite delicate and can be easily damaged by foreign objects in the connector. A handy tip to prevent damage is to cover the ends with a small plastic bag when not in use, as shown in Figure 11-18.
FIGURE 11-18: Connector protected by a small plastic bag
Keep cables as short as required, because they can snag on branches or other items and damage equipment. Loop and tape them to keep them under control, as shown in Figure 11-19.
Power for the Trip
There is nothing worse than being out hunting geocaches and running out of juice for the GPS or PDA. We’ve already covered powering the GPS on the move, but let’s take a quick look at issues specific to geocaching and how to keep your PDA powered while out hunting for caches.
GPS Power Considerations
The easiest way to keep a GPS powered is by keeping a good selection of batteries. Never just rely on having a full set in the GPS — they might discharge more quickly than normal, get lost or damaged, or you might be out for longer than expected. I tend to work with a full set in the GPS, and carry two spare sets for a day’s geocaching. I always use rechargeable NiMH batteries, so cost beyond the initial purchase is low; and I keep them charged up with a car charger. I also have a natty, little solar charger that’s really useful in summer. Figure 11-20 shows a selection of my favorite powering gear.
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FIGURE 11-19: Keep cables under control with tape
FIGURE 11-20: My favorite GPS powering gear
276 Part IV — Playtime
To keep the PDA going, I use a combination of an expansion battery pack that gives me a few extra hours, a car cord, and an external battery pack that will power or charge the iPAQ from four AA batteries (see Figure 11-21). I find that the pack is an ideal way to carry a few spare batteries for the GPS.
FIGURE 11-21: iPAQ external battery pack
Another option to charge an iPAQ while on the move is a solar charger, as shown in Figure 11-22. If you have a car cord for your iPAQ, then using a solar charger such as the Silva Battery Saver, you can, given some sunlight, plug the car cord into it and charge the internal iPAQ battery.
When using solar panel chargers, take care to protect the panels from damage. While they are quite robust, they aren’t indestructible.
You could also use a portable lead-acid battery (shown in Figure 11-23) and a socket splitter, which would enable you to power both the GPS and your PDA. The drain on a lead-acid battery will be a lot less than it would be for other kinds of batteries and you can charge up the battery in your vehicle. The main disadvantage of using such a battery is the weight associated with it.
To help others, some geocachers put spare batteries into geocaches as swaps. These are really good swap items and could really get someone out of a jam if their batteries are low and they need to navigate their way back to the car. Putting batteries in a cache is referred to in geocaching parlance as “leaving GPS food”!
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FIGURE 11-22: A solar charger is a good option if you go geocaching during the day.
FIGURE 11-23: Portable lead-acid battery