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Making your own pickups

Winding your own pickups is certainly possible; there are no secrets behind this art, as the opened Schaller bass pickup or the disassembled DiMarzio humbucker show. The latter has a magnet polarized across its width that is on both sides in contact with six tiny 5mm (3/16")-diameter, 16mm (5/8")-long allen screws, which serve as adjustable magnetic poles. The flat magnet shown is too narrow and has therefore had a small piece of soft iron attached. The two bobbins are fastened to the brass base from the underside by means of the four tiny screws shown. See next page for details of the dimensions of this humbucker with five leads: two on either side for connecting the coils and the fifth for the connection to the metal grounding plate.

If you intend to make your own pickup, compare the cost of the wire and the magnets with that of a finished pickup first. My personal experiences with winding my own pickups are quite positive.

Magnets

Getting hold of suitable magnets can prove difficult, and I regret that I cannot offer much help there, either. True, there are a lot of magnet manufacturers, but they normally accept large-quantity orders only. One idea would be to use magnets and bobbins of pickups that no longer work, if you can get them.

Flat magnets polarized across their width, however, are very difficult to obtain in small numbers. On my hunt for magnets, I came across the pickup manufacturer Kent Armstrong. He also sells magnets and was kind enough to send me two pairs of them (which I used for the P-90 pickups shown later) for free. Another source for such flat magnets may be Allparts (see supplier addresses).

If you find it too difficult to obtain suitable magnets, you can always improvise. Instead of placing a magnet polarized across its width between the two coils of a humbucker, you can also mount one flat, vertically-polarized magnet under each of the two coils, or you can use six short bar magnets as shown on the facing page. If you place the magnets so that the south pole of one and the north pole of the other faces the top, you don't need the more-difficult-to-obtain magnet polarized across its width. Thicker flat magnets increase the height of the pickup but are easier to get hold of. Small bar magnets that are inserted directly into the coil are relatively easy to find. There are, however, also unpolarized magnets available. In fact, many pickup manufacturers do not polarize the magnets until these have been fitted. To do this, they use extremely powerful magnets or special magnetizers with large capacitors which are capable of giving off a short-lasting, high-voltage electric impulse.

Pickup bobbins

Anyone can wind a normal single-coil pickup with magnets directly in the coil (1). The small Alnico-5 bar magnets needed for this, e.g. 20mm, 3/4", 15mm, or 5/8" long, and 5mm or 3/16" in diameter, which are normally used for switching reed relays, should be relatively easy to obtain from an electronics store. Magnets of these dimensions are exactly the right size and only have to be stuck into two thin plates to form a single-coil bobbin. Any kind of stiff material such as 1/16" or 3/32"-thick vulcanized fiberboard, 2mm (3/32")-thick plywood or some synthetic material can be used for the top and the bottom plate, synthetics having the disadvantage of not being very well suited for soldering purposes. I use 2mm-thick plywood because it is very easy to obtain. Make sure to leave enough space on the bottom part to allow a safe and reliable cable connection, ideally with a small clamp or a simple knot as a protection against pulling out the wires. The drawing on the next page shows the shapes of the top and bottom plate of a typical single-coil bobbin. Drill holes at both ends of the bottom plate; these will later be needed for mounting the pickup. A few holes are also needed for the pickup cable. Then drill six holes into both plates with a suitable bit, making sure to get the spacing between the poles right, and insert the magnets. Fix them with super glue. Wrap one layer of insulating tape around all the magnets and deburr all edges carefully as the wire breaks very easily when it gets caught there.

Jason Lollar (see supplier addresses) offers ready-made lasercut bobbin top and bottom flanges made from vulcanized fiberboard. These are available for about US$ 3,- per bobbin. Picture 3 shows two pairs: the top one will, after sticking in 3/16" x 5/8" Alnico rod magnets, give a Tele-style neck pickup, and the bottom one will, after sticking in 3/16" x 3/4" Alnico rod magnets, give a Tele-style bridge pickup. Each bobbin comes with two small eyelets, which serve as soldering points for the pickup leads. The original Tele-bridge pickup has a thin, ferrous plate glued to its underside. The plate is connected to ground and acts as a shield; it also helps to improve high-frequency response.

Wire

What you need is very thin enameled copper wire, about 0.06mm in diameter (AWG 42). With a bit of luck you will get such wire in an electronics store or from firms that repair and rewire motors. I bought my wire straight from a wire-manufacturing company, and they charged me approximately 700 Austrian shillings (about US$ 55) per kilogram (approx. 2 pounds) of 0.06mmdiameter wire. Using thicker wire would not leave enough space on the coil for the number of windings needed, and the use of thinner wire would result in d.c. resistance becoming excessively

Magnetic materials

ALNICO is an artificially-produced, permanently magnetic material consisting of a mixture of aluminium, nickel and cobalt. Depending on composition and strength, these magnetic materials are named differently: Alnico-5 is the most famous one of these mixtures.

Ceramic magnets, however, are much more powerful. With all other factors remaining the same, a ceramic magnet will produce more output. They are also more resistant to demagnetization. Its a myth that the magnetic material has an influence on the sound. You can produce any pickup sound with any magnet.

Eyelets

by Jason Lollar

Bobbin flanges supplied

 

3

Orientation of magnets

When you stick bar magnets into the bobbin plates make sure that they are all equally oriented. All magnets in a coil should have either their north pole or their south pole at the top of the coil (except for single-bobbin split pickups where one half has to be oppositely polarized to get a humbucking effect). How to determine magnetic polarity is explained later.

Strat-style singlecoil bobbin flanges

 

16mm

 

67mm

(2-5/8”)

 

 

 

 

 

(5/8”)

 

Desired string spacing

 

 

 

 

 

 

83mm (3-1/4”)

24mm

 

 

 

 

(15/16”)

 

Magnet rod

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

diameter

Holes for eyelets

 

 

 

1:1 Scale

Hole for cable

 

 

 

a

 

 

 

b

 

 

polepiece

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

N

N

N

N

N

N

N

N

N

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

Alternatives to a flat magnet

You can substitute the difficult-to- get single flat magnet with six 1/2"- long bar or flat magnets as shown in (a), or you could use some square magnets (b).

Dimensions of a typical Humbucker

 

79

 

18

N

String spacing

 

 

37

S

 

68.5 Brass plate

12 x allen screw 5 x 16

67

2

10.5

Magnet 57 x 13 x 5.7

Scale 1 : 1 All measurements in millimeters

Wire gauges

Most original pickups are wound with 42 AWG (American Wire Gauge) wire. Especially for winding smaller coils 43 AWG or even thinner wire is sometimes used, although less commonly, as the total d.c. resistance of thinner wire is extremely high.

AWG

Diameter

D.c. resistance

 

Recommended tension

40

0.078

mm

1.08

ohms/feet ( 3.5 ohms/meter)

1.9

ounces (53 grams)

41

0.071

mm

1.32

ohms/feet ( 4.3 ohms/meter)

1.5

ounces (42 grams)

42

0.063

mm

1.66

ohms/feet ( 5.4

ohms/meter)

1.2

ounces (33 grams)

43

0.056

mm

2.14

ohms/feet ( 7.0

ohms/meter)

0.9

ounces (26

grams)

44

0.050

mm

2.59

ohms/feet ( 8.5

ohms/meter)

0.7

ounces (21

grams)

45

0.044

mm

3.35

ohms/feet (11.0 ohms/meter)

0.6

ounces (17

grams)

46

0.039

mm

4.21

ohms/feet (13.8 ohms/meter)

0.5

ounces (13

grams)

high, thus making the pickup sound less clear. When winding your own pickup success literally hangs by a thread. I wound my first few pickups with 0.036mm wire - not because I needed a challenge, but because a shop-assistant had erroneously sold it to me as 0.06mm (AWG 42) wire, and I continued to use it until the day I checked the gauge. Since I managed to successfully wind a few pickups without making a considerably thinner wire break, I now dare say that with a bit of care it is “almost impossible” to make the “right-gauge” and comparatively thick wire that I use now snap.

When making my first home-made pickup, I wound each of the six magnets individually because I could not imagine that winding around an uneven bobbin could possibly work well. Meanwhile I have tried both methods and would recommend winding around all the magnets or, on split pickups, around one half of the magnets and then around the other half. This method works very well, saves time and also saves you from potential mistakes as you don't need to solder the individual windings together. Winding a single-coil guitar pickup the way I first did would take you about six times longer than with the method I would recommend now.

Pickup covers

Your self-wound pickup will look like a piece of professional work with a commercially-available cover on top of it. Such covers and the screws and springs needed for mounting them are available as spare parts. Make the bobbin so that it matches the cover and fits in tight. But of course you can also make your own pickup cover out of some pieces of pretty wood.