- •PREPARATION
- •General introduction
- •Parts of an electric guitar
- •String frequencies
- •Guitar classics
- •Wood
- •Wood for solid-body guitars
- •Sound characteristics
- •Buying wood
- •Drying wood
- •Hardware
- •Tuners
- •Nuts
- •Bolt-on neck hardware
- •Pickguards
- •Fretwire
- •Bridges
- •Tremolos
- •Other hardware parts needed
- •Strings
- •Guitar electronics
- •Pickups
- •Making your own pickups
- •Magnets
- •Pickup bobbins
- •Wire
- •Strat-style singlecoil bobbin flanges
- •Dimensions of a typical Humbucker
- •Pickup covers
- •Winding pickups
- •Potting pickups
- •Passive circuits
- •Classic circuits
- •Active electronics
- •Shielding
- •Designing the Guitar
- •Scale length
- •Calculating fret distances
- •Laying out the guitar
- •Design options
- •Truss rods
- •Non-adjustable truss rods
- •Adjustable truss rods
- •Some effects on sound
- •Sustain
- •Design examples
- •Making templates
- •Workshop
- •Tools
- •Power tools
- •Plunge router
- •Router bits
- •Planes
- •Scrapers
- •Sawing tools
- •Sanding tools
- •Japanese Tools
- •Sharpening
- •Alternatives for sharpening
- •Safety
- •BUILDING
- •Making the body
- •Making a solid body
- •Preparing the body blank
- •Gluing up the body blank
- •Cutting out the body
- •Smoothing the body side
- •Sanding the body
- •Rounding off the edges
- •Making a hollow body
- •Hollowing out the body
- •Making the top
- •Gluing on the top
- •Binding
- •Making a semi-acoustic body
- •Bending the sides
- •Gluing the sides to the block
- •Making the lining
- •Gluing on the lining
- •Gluing on the top and back
- •Routing the binding rabbet
- •Making f-holes
- •Making the neck pocket
- •Making the neck
- •Making a glued-on peghead
- •Preparing the neck blank
- •Options for making a angled-back head
- •Making Trussrods
- •Making a one-way twin-rod system
- •Making a compression truss rod
- •Making the trussrod channel
- •Cutting a straight truss rod channel
- •Making a curved truss rod channel
- •Making the access cavity
- •Gluing up a heel
- •Fitting the truss rod
- •Fitting a truss rod into a one-piece neck
- •Fitting a two-way twin truss rod
- •Fitting the truss rod cover strip
- •Making the peghead
- •Gluing on the peghead veneer
- •Sawing out the peghead shape
- •Fitting a peghead inlay
- •Making the fingerboard
- •Marking the fret positions
- •Making the fret slots
- •Gluing on the fingerboard
- •Routing the neck shape
- •Drilling the tuner holes
- •Shaping a Fender-style peghead
- •Fitting fingerboard dots
- •Fitting side dot markers
- •Radiusing the fingerboard
- •Installing the frets
- •Bending fretwire
- •Fretting
- •Shaping the neck
- •Fitting the neck
- •Routing the neck pocket
- •Mounting an angled-back neck
- •Bolting on the neck
- •Positioning the bridge
- •Fitting a tremolo
- •Making the body cavities
- •Routing the pickup cavities
- •Routing the control cavity
- •Assembling the guitar
- •Mounting the hardware
- •Wiring the electronics
- •Shielding the electronics
- •Preparing for finishing
- •Repairing dents
- •Finish-sanding
- •Staining
- •Filling the grain
- •Finishing
- •Applying oil
- •Applying wax
- •Shellac
- •Synthetic finishing materials
- •Coloring clear finishes
- •Using a brush
- •Varnish
- •Wiped-on varnish
- •My favorate finishing choice
- •Spray finishing
- •Using spray cans
- •Using a spray gun
- •Sanding the finish
- •Several weeks later
- •Polishing the finish
- •Fret dressing
- •Stringing the guitar
- •Tuning
- •Adjusting the neck relief
- •Setting the string height at the nut
- •Setting the action
- •Adjusting the pickup height
- •Setting the intonation
- •Your self-made guitar
- •Straight-through neck
- •Making a neck-through headless bass
- •A VISIT TO ...
- •Steve Jarman guitars
- •Sadowsky guitars
- •PRS guitars
- •Literature
- •Suppliers
- •Suppliers mentioned in the book
- •Additional instruction materials
- •Acknowledgements
General introduction
This book describes the building of solid-body, hollow-body and semi-acoustic electric guitars. The term “electric guitar” also includes the electric bass, which, despite its slightly longer neck, is pretty similar to build. I use the term hollow-body guitar for a solid-body guitar with hollowed-out body and glued-on top.
The term semi-acoustic guitar is used specifically for guitars like the one shown on page 90. The body consists of a thin top and back plate and the sides are bent from thin strips of wood. A solid block of wood runs down the center of the body. Building a semi-acoustic guitar has more in common with building an acoustic guitar than building an electric.
Parts of an electric guitar
An electric guitar has steel strings which produce vibrations that are then, via a magnetic pick-up, transformed into an electric current (thus the letter “E” which is sometimes used short for “electric” in front of the word guitar). An electric guitar needs an amplifier and a speaker to produce a sufficient level of sound to be audible.
The conventional electric guitar consists, roughly speaking, of three parts: (a) the peghead, where the tuners are fastened, (b) the neck, where the strings are played, and (c) the body, where the strings are fastened and the electronic parts are fitted.
The nut is the contact-point between the strings and the neck; it is situated next to the peghead and represents the zero-fret on the guitar. There are also guitars which have got an actual zerofret and where the nut merely serves the purpose of holding and guiding the strings. At another point of the guitar, the strings make contact with the body at the saddles of the bridge. The ends of the strings with the smaller balls are fitted from the back through holes in the body or anchored at a special string-holding device (tailpiece) or at the bridge. The other ends of the strings are wound around the tuner shafts and the strings are tuned by turning the tuners.
The higher a string is fretted, the shorter its wavelength becomes. Each fret increases the pitch of a string by a semitone.
The vibrating length of each string is the distance between the nut and the saddle and is also called scale length.
The pickups are fastened to the body just under the strings. The control cavity is a recess in the body covered by a plate or the pickguard and contains controls, switches, condensators, etc. The pickguard is most commonly made of plastic. It protects the body surface against damage that can be caused by playing the guitar. At the output jack the cord linking guitar and amplifier is plugged in.
String frequencies
Guitar |
12-string Guitar |
Bass guitar |
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An electric guitar has six strings |
A 12-string guitar has two strings |
An electric bass guitar normally has |
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which, just like an acoustic guitar, |
per tone placed close to each other. |
four strings which are tuned to the |
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are tuned to the following tones |
The frequencies of the twelve |
same tones as - but one octave |
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(starting with the bottom string): |
strings are as follows: |
lower than - the four bottom strings |
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e, B, G, D, A, E |
E: |
82.41 Hz |
of a guitar, i.e. to E, A, D and G. This |
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Here are the frequencies of the |
means that the strings of a bass |
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e: |
164.82 Hz |
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open strings: |
guitar are tuned to the following |
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A: |
110.00 Hz |
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E: 82.41 Hz |
frequencies: |
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a: |
220.00 Hz |
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E: |
41.20 Hz |
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A: 110.00 Hz |
D: |
146.82 Hz |
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D: 146.82 Hz |
d: |
293.64 Hz |
A: |
55.00 Hz |
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G: 196.00 Hz |
G,g: |
196.00 Hz |
D: |
73.41 Hz |
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B: 246.94 Hz |
B,b: |
246.94 Hz |
G: |
98.00 Hz |
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e: 329.63 Hz |
E,e: |
329.63 Hz |
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A four-string bass is more than |
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Hz is short for Hertz, the unit of |
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sufficient for accompanying pur- |
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frequency which tells the number |
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poses. For solo-playing, however, |
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of vibrations per second. It is named |
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the availability of a wider range of |
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after the German physicist Heinrich |
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tones might be desirable. This is |
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Rudolf Hertz (1857-1894). |
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why there are such things as five- |
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The frequency of a tuning fork is |
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string and six-string basses. Nor- |
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that of standard concert pitch (A), |
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mally, a five-string bass has an |
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i.e. 440 Hz. |
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additional lower B-string (30.9 Hz) |
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or an additional treble C-string |
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(130.8 Hz). A six-string bass has both |
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these strings. |
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Tuner |
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Neck |
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9th fret |
Peghead |
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Pickup |
Nut |
Bridge |
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Fingerboard |
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Pickguard |
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Body |
Pickup selector switch |
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Output jack |
Volume and tone controls |
Fender Telecaster
The Telecaster, or Tele for short, was the first industrially-manufactured and commercially successful electric guitar; it was built by the American company Fender.The shape of this nice-looking, simply-construct- ed and purpose-built guitar has hardly changed at all since the 1950ies, and it is still as popular as ever.
Fender Stratocaster
The Stratocaster, or Strat for short, was Fender’s second big success; tremolo, three pickups and an ergonomically-shaped body turned it into “the” electric guitar.
Gibson Les Paul
The Les Paul is a classic Gibson model named after its endorser. It was designed by Ted Mc Carthy. Its body and neck are made of mahogany, and because the neck is glued to the body, it is difficult to remove. The body usually has a maple top.
Fender Precision Bass and Jazz Bass
The most commonly-used Fender bass models are the Precision Bass and the Jazz Bass. The Precision Bass was the first bass with frets, which, as the name implies, made it possible to play the instrument with much more “precision”.
Guitar classics
Attempts to increase the sound-volume of acoustic instruments by mechanical means were made quite early this century; later pickups and amplifiers were used to achieve the same effect. Since such attempts were numerous, nobody can seriously lay claim to having invented the electric guitar. What is certain, however, is the fact that the idea was developed in the 1930ies and ’40ies and that the first electromagnetic pickup was fitted on a Rickenbacker guitar that looked more like a frying pan with handle than a guitar as we know it today. But one name will forever be associated with electric guitars: Leo Fender.
Fender guitars mostly have a body made of either maple, ash, alder or basswood and a bolt-on neck made of maple.
The names of these guitars are mere product names and of no further significance, just as in the world of cars, where manufacturers give different names to different models. Most of these names given to guitars have become household names and are nowadays widely used in everyday language. But be aware that almost all guitar names are registered trademarks owned by the respective manufacturers.
There are countless variations of these types of guitar, the shape of the peghead often being the main distinguishing feature. On the whole, the majority of all types of guitar - including the modern ones - can be classified under one of their above-mentioned predecessors.
There are also guitars without peghead. These guitars often have carbon-fiber necks, which have the advantage of offering greater stability than wooden necks. Such headless guitars need special strings with two ball-ends that are fastened at the tuners at the end of the body. A “normal” electric guitar, however, is made entirely of wood, and the special magic and sound qualities of this material will no doubt ensure the continued popularity and survival of guitars made of this product of nature.
