- •PREPARATION
- •General introduction
- •Parts of an electric guitar
- •String frequencies
- •Guitar classics
- •Wood
- •Wood for solid-body guitars
- •Sound characteristics
- •Buying wood
- •Drying wood
- •Hardware
- •Tuners
- •Nuts
- •Bolt-on neck hardware
- •Pickguards
- •Fretwire
- •Bridges
- •Tremolos
- •Other hardware parts needed
- •Strings
- •Guitar electronics
- •Pickups
- •Making your own pickups
- •Magnets
- •Pickup bobbins
- •Wire
- •Strat-style singlecoil bobbin flanges
- •Dimensions of a typical Humbucker
- •Pickup covers
- •Winding pickups
- •Potting pickups
- •Passive circuits
- •Classic circuits
- •Active electronics
- •Shielding
- •Designing the Guitar
- •Scale length
- •Calculating fret distances
- •Laying out the guitar
- •Design options
- •Truss rods
- •Non-adjustable truss rods
- •Adjustable truss rods
- •Some effects on sound
- •Sustain
- •Design examples
- •Making templates
- •Workshop
- •Tools
- •Power tools
- •Plunge router
- •Router bits
- •Planes
- •Scrapers
- •Sawing tools
- •Sanding tools
- •Japanese Tools
- •Sharpening
- •Alternatives for sharpening
- •Safety
- •BUILDING
- •Making the body
- •Making a solid body
- •Preparing the body blank
- •Gluing up the body blank
- •Cutting out the body
- •Smoothing the body side
- •Sanding the body
- •Rounding off the edges
- •Making a hollow body
- •Hollowing out the body
- •Making the top
- •Gluing on the top
- •Binding
- •Making a semi-acoustic body
- •Bending the sides
- •Gluing the sides to the block
- •Making the lining
- •Gluing on the lining
- •Gluing on the top and back
- •Routing the binding rabbet
- •Making f-holes
- •Making the neck pocket
- •Making the neck
- •Making a glued-on peghead
- •Preparing the neck blank
- •Options for making a angled-back head
- •Making Trussrods
- •Making a one-way twin-rod system
- •Making a compression truss rod
- •Making the trussrod channel
- •Cutting a straight truss rod channel
- •Making a curved truss rod channel
- •Making the access cavity
- •Gluing up a heel
- •Fitting the truss rod
- •Fitting a truss rod into a one-piece neck
- •Fitting a two-way twin truss rod
- •Fitting the truss rod cover strip
- •Making the peghead
- •Gluing on the peghead veneer
- •Sawing out the peghead shape
- •Fitting a peghead inlay
- •Making the fingerboard
- •Marking the fret positions
- •Making the fret slots
- •Gluing on the fingerboard
- •Routing the neck shape
- •Drilling the tuner holes
- •Shaping a Fender-style peghead
- •Fitting fingerboard dots
- •Fitting side dot markers
- •Radiusing the fingerboard
- •Installing the frets
- •Bending fretwire
- •Fretting
- •Shaping the neck
- •Fitting the neck
- •Routing the neck pocket
- •Mounting an angled-back neck
- •Bolting on the neck
- •Positioning the bridge
- •Fitting a tremolo
- •Making the body cavities
- •Routing the pickup cavities
- •Routing the control cavity
- •Assembling the guitar
- •Mounting the hardware
- •Wiring the electronics
- •Shielding the electronics
- •Preparing for finishing
- •Repairing dents
- •Finish-sanding
- •Staining
- •Filling the grain
- •Finishing
- •Applying oil
- •Applying wax
- •Shellac
- •Synthetic finishing materials
- •Coloring clear finishes
- •Using a brush
- •Varnish
- •Wiped-on varnish
- •My favorate finishing choice
- •Spray finishing
- •Using spray cans
- •Using a spray gun
- •Sanding the finish
- •Several weeks later
- •Polishing the finish
- •Fret dressing
- •Stringing the guitar
- •Tuning
- •Adjusting the neck relief
- •Setting the string height at the nut
- •Setting the action
- •Adjusting the pickup height
- •Setting the intonation
- •Your self-made guitar
- •Straight-through neck
- •Making a neck-through headless bass
- •A VISIT TO ...
- •Steve Jarman guitars
- •Sadowsky guitars
- •PRS guitars
- •Literature
- •Suppliers
- •Suppliers mentioned in the book
- •Additional instruction materials
- •Acknowledgements
Making templates
After having designed and drawn the guitar you should make a “flat” guitar from 6- to 10mm-thick plywood on a scale of 1:1. Using these templates and a router bit with end-mounted ball bearing in a table-mounted router the body and neck contours are routed later. Use hard beech plywood for this purpose; if soft plywood is used, the ball bearing of the router could lead to undesired changes of shape. A body and a neck template are required. I even use a separate peghead template as this makes it
easier to plane the fingerboard template edges straight. For an |
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angled-back peghead you always need a seperate peghead |
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template. |
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For making a symmetrical body fasten two pieces of the |
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template material with adhesive tape on top of each other and |
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then cut them out together (1). After rough-cutting the body |
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shape, I use a rasp and sandpaper to smooth the contours. If you |
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then open the two halves that were kind of folded together, you |
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will have a perfectly symmetrical body template from which only |
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the cutaways are missing. If you use a pickguard, its shape has to |
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be taken into account when determining the body shape. Where |
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the body is not symmetrical (2) - and this is fairly often the case - |
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templates obviously cannot be cut out in this manner (i.e. folded up).
It is advisable to take a lot of time for filing and smoothing the template contours (3) as any uneven spots and dents will later be transferred onto the wood and will then be far more difficult to correct than on the thin template. If your work is in danger of becoming sloppy and rushed, it may be a good idea to grant yourself and your templates a little overnight rest and to finish the sanding the next day.
Using a jointer I plane the sides of the neck template from a |
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long, square piece of plywood. To taper it plane the piece over a |
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short length only to start with and then gradually work your way |
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up the entire length. |
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If you then screw the neck template to the body template and |
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also attach the peghead provisionally, you can get a first impres- |
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sion of what your guitar will eventually look like and you will be |
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able to assess its proportions (4). Like it or not, except for the |
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guitar being very flat you see a “life-size” version of your future |
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guitar! |
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It is not a bad idea to first make “master” templates out of 3mm |
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(1/8")-thick plywood as shaping such thin material is much |
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easier. Then make your “work” templates by simply copying |
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them from the master template by means of a table-mounted |
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router and a router bit with end-mounted ball bearing. Keep the |
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master template in a safe place afterwards. |
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