- •PREPARATION
- •General introduction
- •Parts of an electric guitar
- •String frequencies
- •Guitar classics
- •Wood
- •Wood for solid-body guitars
- •Sound characteristics
- •Buying wood
- •Drying wood
- •Hardware
- •Tuners
- •Nuts
- •Bolt-on neck hardware
- •Pickguards
- •Fretwire
- •Bridges
- •Tremolos
- •Other hardware parts needed
- •Strings
- •Guitar electronics
- •Pickups
- •Making your own pickups
- •Magnets
- •Pickup bobbins
- •Wire
- •Strat-style singlecoil bobbin flanges
- •Dimensions of a typical Humbucker
- •Pickup covers
- •Winding pickups
- •Potting pickups
- •Passive circuits
- •Classic circuits
- •Active electronics
- •Shielding
- •Designing the Guitar
- •Scale length
- •Calculating fret distances
- •Laying out the guitar
- •Design options
- •Truss rods
- •Non-adjustable truss rods
- •Adjustable truss rods
- •Some effects on sound
- •Sustain
- •Design examples
- •Making templates
- •Workshop
- •Tools
- •Power tools
- •Plunge router
- •Router bits
- •Planes
- •Scrapers
- •Sawing tools
- •Sanding tools
- •Japanese Tools
- •Sharpening
- •Alternatives for sharpening
- •Safety
- •BUILDING
- •Making the body
- •Making a solid body
- •Preparing the body blank
- •Gluing up the body blank
- •Cutting out the body
- •Smoothing the body side
- •Sanding the body
- •Rounding off the edges
- •Making a hollow body
- •Hollowing out the body
- •Making the top
- •Gluing on the top
- •Binding
- •Making a semi-acoustic body
- •Bending the sides
- •Gluing the sides to the block
- •Making the lining
- •Gluing on the lining
- •Gluing on the top and back
- •Routing the binding rabbet
- •Making f-holes
- •Making the neck pocket
- •Making the neck
- •Making a glued-on peghead
- •Preparing the neck blank
- •Options for making a angled-back head
- •Making Trussrods
- •Making a one-way twin-rod system
- •Making a compression truss rod
- •Making the trussrod channel
- •Cutting a straight truss rod channel
- •Making a curved truss rod channel
- •Making the access cavity
- •Gluing up a heel
- •Fitting the truss rod
- •Fitting a truss rod into a one-piece neck
- •Fitting a two-way twin truss rod
- •Fitting the truss rod cover strip
- •Making the peghead
- •Gluing on the peghead veneer
- •Sawing out the peghead shape
- •Fitting a peghead inlay
- •Making the fingerboard
- •Marking the fret positions
- •Making the fret slots
- •Gluing on the fingerboard
- •Routing the neck shape
- •Drilling the tuner holes
- •Shaping a Fender-style peghead
- •Fitting fingerboard dots
- •Fitting side dot markers
- •Radiusing the fingerboard
- •Installing the frets
- •Bending fretwire
- •Fretting
- •Shaping the neck
- •Fitting the neck
- •Routing the neck pocket
- •Mounting an angled-back neck
- •Bolting on the neck
- •Positioning the bridge
- •Fitting a tremolo
- •Making the body cavities
- •Routing the pickup cavities
- •Routing the control cavity
- •Assembling the guitar
- •Mounting the hardware
- •Wiring the electronics
- •Shielding the electronics
- •Preparing for finishing
- •Repairing dents
- •Finish-sanding
- •Staining
- •Filling the grain
- •Finishing
- •Applying oil
- •Applying wax
- •Shellac
- •Synthetic finishing materials
- •Coloring clear finishes
- •Using a brush
- •Varnish
- •Wiped-on varnish
- •My favorate finishing choice
- •Spray finishing
- •Using spray cans
- •Using a spray gun
- •Sanding the finish
- •Several weeks later
- •Polishing the finish
- •Fret dressing
- •Stringing the guitar
- •Tuning
- •Adjusting the neck relief
- •Setting the string height at the nut
- •Setting the action
- •Adjusting the pickup height
- •Setting the intonation
- •Your self-made guitar
- •Straight-through neck
- •Making a neck-through headless bass
- •A VISIT TO ...
- •Steve Jarman guitars
- •Sadowsky guitars
- •PRS guitars
- •Literature
- •Suppliers
- •Suppliers mentioned in the book
- •Additional instruction materials
- •Acknowledgements
Basic safety equipment
Eye and ear protection and respirator mask should be regarded as basic safety equipment and belong into every workshop.
Safety
Power tools handled carelessly are a source of great danger. Please always read the instructions for use carefully and heed the words of warning about potential dangers. Understandably, the joy or excitement about a new machine may initially be too great to have time for worrying about such “irrelevant matters” as safety. Our eyes, ears, fingers and hands are, however, far too precious to be ignored - and they deserve every precautionary measure conceivable. After all, what is the use of building yourself a guitar if you won't be able to play it in the end?
Even if you consider yourself familiar with a particular tool, reread the instructions for use as this might reveal things which you may have been unaware of until now.
To exclude the possibility of switching on a tool by mistake, always unplug power tools when mounting or removing parts. I have all my power tools plugged into a multiple plug with ONOFF switch, which is quite handy as it frees me from plugging in and unplugging cords when working with different machines. Apart from power tools sharp hand tools also require atten-
tion: always work in a direction away from your body.
Not using eye or ear protection, guard, push stick and so on, is certainly not a sign of professionalism but rather of thoughtlessness and often also stupidity. Professionals especially tend to become numb to certain dangers over the years. Once an accident has happened it is too late, and being handicapped for life can be the sad result.
Safety also includes preparing everything well, having the working area well cleared and, above all, creating the circumstances which allow you to work calmly and without need for any rushing. As far as working area tidiness is concerned, I am myself guilty of regularly allowing a “battlefield-like situation” to develop, taking, as I do, different tools, using them and then putting them “somewhere” instead of in their proper place. This gradually builds up to a huge mess of tools, scrap pieces and accessories. Thinking about it, I have come to the conclusion that I probably make the mistake of jumping from one step to the next instead of moving on slowly.
Each tool ought to have a fixed place, a place that is easily accessible from where you work, without requiring a lot of manoeuvring to be done. Any obstacles such as packaging or a closed toolbox blocking access to a tool's proper place are open invitations to just leaving a tool wherever it is most convenient to put. Similarly, it would be a mistake not to use a drill stand just because one cannot be bothered to set it up - the results of freehand drilling will be accordingly.
Clear up after each individual step of work. I am convinced that such self-discipline will have a positive effect on the end product. Scratches and other kinds of damage done to the guitar are not really necessary and can be prevented by using protective pads, clamping cauls, etc., and by keeping everything as clean as possible. A few thoughts about where to best put things in the room you work in will not go unrewarded.
