Fitting fingerboard dots

Fingerboard markers in the shape of dots look good and help the guitar player to find the frets more easily. Dots are normally fitted between frets on the side of the fingerboard which faces the player and also on the fingerboard itself. Often you will find four dots spread symmetrically over 12 frets: the 3rd, 5th, 7th and 9th fret are marked with one dot each, while the 12th fret has two dots. The next 12 frets are marked as a mirror-image of the first 12 frets, and fingerboards with 24 frets have this last fret also marked with two dots. Because they are more difficult to see for the player, the dots on the fingerboard are not absolutely necessary, as opposed to those on the side of the fingerboard. Both functions of the dots (ornamental and practical use) would be met by fitting marks of

rectangular, round or some other shape on the side of the fingerboard. Materials and shapes can be chosen according to one's own likes.

Dots are easy to fit. Draw two diagonal lines to determine the center between two frets and, after marking this center, drill holes of about 2mm to

3mm (3/32"- 1/8") depth, 7 preferably with a brad point

drill bit as these produce flat-

bottom holes (7). Then glue the dots into the holes and finish by sanding all dots flush with the fingerboard, using extremly finegrit sandpaper. An alternative to buying plastic dots from guitarmakers' suppliers would be to cut thin pieces off a black plastic shaft of a potentiometer. Often, however, such shafts and other plastic rods contain tiny holes because of entrapped air, in which case not all dots may be suitable. For a dark fingerboard you need bright-colored dots made of either some synthetic material or mother-of-pearl or abalone (8).

Wooden fingerboard dots (9) are also possible. On the neck shown on the left I used dark hardwood dowels as fingerboard markers. The picture also shows my expensive Japanese saw; here I am using it to cut the dowels flush with the fingerboard. There are also saws made specifically for this purpose with set teeth on one side only that leave no scratches on the surface. It's about time I bought one of these special saws, too.

6

8

Block of wood screwed to the drill stand base

4

Fingerboard binding

Cut a suitable rabbet and then glue on the binding. Do this before you make the radius on the fingerboard as routing the rabbet is easier on a flat surface. In the picture on the left I am using thin strips of wood as binding material. A flushtrimming cutter bit can be used for cutting the rabbet, provided that a fairly small ball bearing is mounted. The depth of the rabbet can be worked out by subtracting the diameter of the ball bearing from the cutter bit diameter and dividing the result by two.

Radius the fingerboard and make the fret slots deeper before gluing on the binding.

For details on how to glue on plastic bindings and what glue to use please read the appropriate section in the chapter on how to make a semi-acoustic body.

Fitting side dot markers

Side dot markers on the fingerboard are an invaluable help for the player. These dots are often made from some sort of synthetic material and are either black or white to contrast with the color of the fingerboard. Plastic rods, 1/16", 3/32", 1.5mm or 2mm in diameter, which can be used for making such dots, are commercially available from guitarmakers' suppliers (also via mail order). It is also possible to use copper wire that is thick enough for the purpose, but you can only cut it flush with a file. Mark and drill one hole each between the 2nd and 3rd, the 4th and 5th, the 6th and 7th and the 8th and 9th fret, and two holes for fitting two dots between the 11th and the 12th fret.

For drilling the holes (1) I used a drill stand with an attached block of wood to guarantee equal distances from the fingerboard edge (the neck is fastened in the workbench vise). After drilling fit each dot by putting a spot of super glue into the hole, sticking in the plastic rod (2), cutting it off (3) and then sanding and scraping it flush (4). Note that the dots are not centered on the fingerboard edge because this edge will become narrower after radiusing the fingerboard.

If you wish to make the fingerboard radius before gluing on the fingerboard, you will need a special clamping caul (shown on page 149). I prefer gluing on the flat fingerboard before making the radius but thats a matter of taste.