- •T. J. Djankova, a. A. Burinskaja, s. A. Zakharenkov technology of finishing textile materials
- •1. Principal views of textile fibers
- •2. Preparation of cellulose materials for dyeing and printing
- •2.1. Bleaching of cotton textiles
- •2.2. Mercerization
- •3. Application of optical bleaches
- •3.1. Optical bleaching substances
- •3.2. Test on presence of an optical bleach
- •4. Dyeing
- •4.1. Technical classification of dyes
- •4.3. Mordant dyes
- •4.4. Acid metalline dyes
- •The abovementioned recipe and procedure of dyeing are standart and can be changed and specified according to type of the equipment and also kind of coloring material.
- •4.5. Direct dyes Direct dyes may be used for dyeing cotton and other cellulose fibers. Direct dyes simple in application, are suitable for dyeing on any equipment, well combined with each other.
- •4.6. Reactive dyes
- •4.6.1. Cellulose dyeing. Batch methods of dyeing
- •Table 4.1. Dyes Bath Composition and Dyeing Conditions
- •4.6.2. Continuous dyeing
- •4.7. Cationic dyes
- •Dyeing by fast-fixing dyes
- •Dyeing of newly-formed braid
- •4.8. Disperse dyes
- •4.9. Vat dyes
- •Indigo-molecular structure Vat Yellow-molecular structure
- •Dye. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 % from weight of a fiber
- •4.10. Sulfur dyes
- •4.11. Azo dyes synthesized in the fiber
- •5. Printing
- •5.1. Reactive dyes printing
- •5.2. Pigments printing
- •5.3. Thermoprinting of fibrous materials
- •6. Final finishing
- •6.1. Giving to fabrics of properties of water pushing away
- •6. 2. Giving to textile cloths of oil- hidrofobization
- •6.3. Giving to fabrics of fireproof properties
- •6.4. Giving to fabrics of anti-shrinkage chemical properties, form-stable finishing
- •Application Rules
- •7. Dyeing from Emulsions
- •7.1 Auxiliaries solvents
- •7.2 Emulsifiers
- •7.3 Dyeing with water-soluble dyestuffs.
- •7.4. Basic dyeable synthetic fibers
- •7.5. Physic-chemical fundamentals of emulsion technique
- •Influence of the temperature on the stability of an emulsion
- •Influence of additives on the stability of an emulsion
- •The optical properties of a water/perchloroethylene emulsion
- •Vapour pressure of a water/perchloroethylene emulsion
- •7.6 Equipment for dyeing from organic solvents
- •8. Equipment for dyeing and finishing factories.
- •8.1. Machine for washing, bleaching and dyeing “colorado”
- •8.2. Мachine «petra» f. Biancalani For obtaining effects of “worked surface”
- •8.3. High temperature machine mcs comby jigger
- •8.4. Hydraulic drying cylinder machines “jigger jht” by exclusivas tepp s.A. (Spain)
- •8.5. Vertical high-temperature high-pressure yarn dyeing plant
- •8.6. Flow line for combined bleaching and dyeing of fabrics лкб-140
- •Specification
- •8.7. Rapidstretch
- •8.8. Technodye rapid system Main features.
- •8.9. Superflux ne
- •Finally
- •8.7. Rapidstretch 84
5. Printing
Printing is a process of reception on a material of color patterns. The technology of printing includes four basic stages: drawing of a printing paint; drying by hot air; steaming for achievement of dye in deep layers of a fiber and washing for removal of thickener and not fixed dye.
There are three kinds of the printing: the direct printing at which on a white background put a color pattern; the corrosive printing at which on the painted material receive a white or color pattern by means of corrosive structure; the reserve printing at which on a cloth at first put printing structure, and then paint, thus in places of drawing of printing structure of coloring does not occur.
Feature of printing in comparison with dyeing consists that dye passes in a fiber not from a water solution and from a dry film of thickener to fiber surfaces. In process of steaming dye moves from the bulked up film of a thickener in a fiber also enters interaction with the reactionary centers of polymer.
5.1. Reactive dyes printing
Reactive dyes are widely used for cotton, flax, rayon staple fabric and cotton and rayon knitwear printing. Various methods and all kinds of equipment can be used in printing, fixing and rinsing fabrics and knitwear.
Table 5.1. Printing Ink Composition and Fixation Conditions
-
Printing Ink Composition, g/kg
and Fixation Conditions
Reactive Dyes
With index „Kh"
Non-Indexes
Steaming at T
102-105
140-150
102-105
140-150
Dye
10—60
10—60
10—60
10—60
Urea
50—150
200
50—150
200
Ludigol
10
10
10
10
Sodium Bicarbonate
15
15
15—20
15—20
or Soda Ash
-
-
15—20
15—20
Thickener
a
a
a
a
Water
The rest to 1 kg
Fixation Time, min.
2—3
1—2
6—8
1—2
Thickener amount (a) depends on the needed printing ink viscosity.
5.2. Pigments printing
The pigmentary press covers 70-80 % of all stuffed textile materials owing to the simplicity, universality and ecological is pure. It is allows to receive drawings of any complexity and color scale on cotton and mixed textile materials (a fabric, jersey, nonwoven cloths, etc.). Pigments — not soluble in water painting substances of a mineral or organic origin. They have not an affinity for textile fibers and are fixed on them in the film of binding substance which provides high adhesion to a substratum. The given way of the textile printing is universal, differs technological simplicity (printing — drying — heat treatment), is safe in ecological from carrying, as relation as does not include operations steaming and washings of the printed fabrics. Pigments printing it is often combined with various kinds of final furnish.
The structure of pigmentary printing compositions includes the following components:
- The binding (film-forming) substance capable to formation of a film thin, elastic, colorless and steady against ageing, a keeping particle of a pigment on a fiber thanks to high adhesive durability for-fastening. As binding substances polymers of the various structures may be used.
- The sewing agent — precondensates of thermojet pitches (PTRS) which is intended for strengthening of fastening of a film of binding substance with pigment particles on a fiber at the expense of formation (at 140 160 °С in the presence of potentially sour catalyst) of additional cross-section communications between this film and a substratum on polycondensation reaction of polycondensation CH2OH PTRS with active groups (-СООН, — ОН, — NH2, etc.) polymers of the film and a fiber. As PTRS may be used Metazins, Carbamols, Glikazins and other similar products.
- The catalyst (salt or acid), easily forming protons at thermal decomposition and hydrolysis in the course of thermal processing and promoting to course of the polycondensation specified above reaction ((NH4C1, (NH4)2S2O3, MgCl2, Zn(N03)2, (COOH)2, wine, dairy and other weak organic acids).
- Pigment is entered into a painting paste in the quantity defined behind color and intensity of coloring (it is preferable in the form of paste). Besides mineral and organic pigments (with the average size of the particles 1-2 microns) in the pigments pastes for expansion of possibilities of art-colorist finishing of textiles can be used metal powders, luminous-embossing connections and substances with various factor of refraction of light, allowing to receive "pearl" colorings.
- The thickener is entered into a printing paint for creation necessary viscously-still and clearness of a contour of drawing on a fabric. For the pigmentary press application of natural and synthetic thickeners is possible. Recently thickeners on a basis acrylic the copolymers sharply raising the viscosity in the sour environment, owing to ionization and mutual pushing away carboxyl groups of the specified copolymers are most extended.
Besides the specified basic components the pigmentary paint can contain softener (for decrease in rigidity of a signature stamp) and the substances preventing clogging engravings of a shaft or a sieve of a template pigmentary dye at great volume of the press.
Rapid growth of manufacture of the mixed fabrics has caused sharp increase in consumption of painting pigments in колорировании textile materials (more than 50% of all printed fabrics in the world). Advantage of the pigmentary press is its big ecological compatibility: an exception of operation of washing, smaller теплозатраты, comparative simplicity of hardware registration, sharp reduction of all kinds of emissions in environment thanks to reduction of a work cycle of processing of a textile material. At the pigmentary press 100% use of painting substances with achievement of high brightness and light resistance of colorings are carried out practically at lower compared with other classes of dyes the expense (on 15-20 %).
Last years ecological questions from outside the buyer get the increasing value. It is taken into consideration both in questions of the legislation and at marks of textile products by ecological labels. The label of the international society of check in the field of textile ecology EkO-teks-100 is for example used. The basic danger is connected with the maintenance in paints of substances of type of formaldehyde and hydrocarbons.
Ecologically improved compounding of pigmentary printing paints not containing hydrocarbons and containing a little or completely not containing formaldehyde, offers ф. СНТ (Germany):
Table 5.2. Ecologically improved compounding of the pigmentary press
-
Component of a printing paint
The Compounding 1
The Compounding 2
Water
Х г
Х g
SnT-foamextinguish BS
2 g
2 g
tubigat 0 18
10-20 g
10-20 g
tubifastAF 85 -
90 g
90 g
tubivis SNP 110 S -10 g or
10 g
tubivis14
18 g
18 g
tubisoft SEM
6 g
6 g
tubifix ML 50
5 g
tubifix 3220/3
5 g
In total 1000g
1000 g
The formaldehyde maintenance
near. 73prm
Less than 20prm
F.Klariant (Austria) offers painting pigments of Printofiks Н, the textile products printed with them, can be noted a sign "Eko-teks".
Printing composition for cotton fabrics, gm/kg:
Pigment TP. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X
Binder "Emultex 5BN . . .150-190
Fixing agent SI. . . . . . . . . . . .0-10
Thickening agent SI. . . . . . . . . 30
Softened water condensate to 1000 gm
For synthetic fabrics:
Pigment TP. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .X
Binder Emultex 5BN. . . . 150-190
Fixing agent SI. . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Thickening agent SI. . . . . . . . . .30
Softened water condensate to 1000 gm
Drying of printed substrate at 100-110°C, thermo fixation 150°C 5 min.
Emultex 5BN, Fixing agent SI, Thickening agent SI are original products of Co "Pigment".
Pigments TP are well compatible with all up-date components used in compositions for pigment printing on natural, artificial land, synthetic fibers.