Royal guard

The Royal Guard’s kit is documented clearly in the 1605 Stockholm Roll. They were dressed in western fashion, in short coats, and armed with halberds. They are seen in a procession of the queen in 1645 for her wedding with Władysław IV. The Guard surrounded the carriage, in which rode the ladies of the court. Guardsmen were “dressed in blue with gold braid edging, vests striped, presenting their halberds”.

It is interesting that, according to the same testimony, eight hundred German royal foote guards were dressed in blue, half musketeers and half pikemen. Three hundred royal horse guard were armed similar to Marshal Opaliński’s cossacks (i.e. helmets, steel armor covered by cloaks), outfits trimmed with yellow. These colors proclaim that the infantry are western style, as recorded in a picture of Jana de Baen of Podhorcach, as we know from Kielisiński’s miniatures.

Artillery

A few words about Commonwealth artillery. We know little, but it is proper to write what we know, it can be summed up later with the rest. We know that Artillerymen (puszkarzy) received coats and other clothing as part of their pay at least by 1540. B

_______THIS QUOTE IS EITHER VERY OLD POLISH OR SOME OTHER LANGUAGE _______

„Puszkar kotoromu służba idet po szesti-kop hroszey a po suknu łunskomu... ^lxxvi (artillerymen kotoromu (marked?) service goes sixteen (szesti-kop hroszey?) but for (after) coat of good london-cloth. )

As well, in 1552 “Puszkar za 5 kop z myta Połockoho y dwoie sukno łunskoje y kołtryszowoie y korcz-mu piwszuju y medowniu... [powinien] na każdy hod na zamek Połocki dawati sto kuł kamiennych" ( “Artillery with 5 tunnels/earthworks? and washed Polocki and two coats or cloth (sukno) of don cloth y kołtryszowoie (light and dark?)y korcz-mu piwszuju y medowniu (beer and mead?). on every place should hammer on Castle Polocki a hundred stone cannonballs)^lxxvii. in another: „dom w meste daniny beret z my­ta 12 kop. hroszey i dwoie sukno łunskoje y kołtryszowoie, powinien na każdy hod na zamek dawati dwie hakownicy" ( “house in a town (to) with (from) washed 12 too „ house with meste tribute beret. And washed 12 digs hroszey And two coats london-cloth y kołtryszowoie, it should on each hod on castle set two wall-guns (hakownicy)).^lxxviii

Records state that in 1581^lxxix : “Jacob de Fratycz, pixidario Hungaro, loco panni pro caligis... f. 4. 20 . It is possible to assume from this, that, pixidarii hungari”, is an infantryman of hungarian type (not necessarly hungarian nationality) who received cloth for clothing, in this single case this was traded for footwear.

Article XXV^lxxx of “articles on artillery’ (Artykułów przesławnej artylerii) of Jan 26, 1634 a passage included “...All artillerymen should recieve.... pay in coin or in kind..... quarterly or monthly together with the uniforms they receive annually) . We find two valuable indications here that artillerists did not receive cloth, but rather finished uniforms and that they had to suffice for a year.

A third piece of information is in a water-color by an unknown author, executed in 1683, so is from that year or perhaps earlier),. It presents a Lithuanian ‘furrow army’ soldier, perhaps serving in support of the artillery. He is holding an artillery linstock (lontownik) and is in a uniform with colors consistent with artillery uniforms of the early 18^th C. The Laudum Sejm at Halick established sapper and artillery units in 1675, but such were allocated already in 1647 for crown artillery.^lxxxi

GENERAL CONCLUSIONS

Summing up, within the 17^th century we can define individual Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth military types in the following manner:

The traditional “uniform” of Commonwealth troops, as underlined distinctly by Starowolski, existed from the mid 16^th C. Through the whole of the 17^th C.

Uniform colors in the Commonwealth military was not only a tradition, but a regulation. However, it was not always consistently applied. As Starowolski observed: “Today (writing in 1640).... the miserly captains have dressed the infantry in inappropriate and inconsistently colored clothing”. Another cause is the ‘deluge’ and the ruin of the Commonwealth by enemies from the north, east and south in mid 17^th C., which almost destroyed the textile industry, and made impractical the effort of sewing identical uniforms for soldiers. However, the principle of uniformity can be observed distinctly as a trend.

Specific conclusions regarding uniforms that our research supports include the following:

Red prevails in cavalry clothes in the 16th and 17^th C., with frequent exceptions, and infantry used blue shades from light blue to dark blue.

Claudius de Mesmes d'Avaux, was sent by Ludwik XIII, as envoy, in the role of mediator in negotiations between the Swedes and Poles in 1635. Drawings of representative formations of Polish combat troops were sent to his king along with list of units and unit types^lxxxii. In schematic drawings, the troop type was identified by specific unique colors. ‘Lanciers’, (hussars) were marked in yellow, perhaps because of the golden glitter of brass and gilded armor. ‘Cosagues’, or pancerni were shown in red. ‘Infanterie’, or infantry were tagged in blue.

It seems that d'Avaux marked light cavalry with black or gray. This might not be especially significant, as this cavalry was not characterized specially with any particular color, but rather whatever they thought was most splendid. Perhaps, clothes worn on campaign did not fully cover armor in combat and field conditions, or might become grey form mud. Practical uniforms are basic.

The basic uniform color for dragoons was green. Our sources mentioned only one unit of dragoons, that Weyher’s dragoons were dressed in 1645 on the model of infantry - in blue. And this is logical, if one treats dragoons as mounted infantry^lxxxiii. But in this case we are talking about a single unit of dragoons in a magnate’s private army. d'Avaux states that Green served for dragoons as a general convention. We cited several sources already concerning 1703,^lxxxiv that dragoons wore green uniform coats with collar, facing and lining in red. The rankers were in dark green, non-commissioned officers and trumpeters and drummers were in lighter green. Trousers had suede seats reinforced for riding. By 1703 dragoons started to wear tricorn hats instead of the black colpak. So, at some point in the 17^th C. uniform of green color became standard, as codified in the uniform reforms of August II. Perhaps, from this time lies the origin of the name of the color ‘vert de dragon’. The Stanisławowski Reforms of 1775 set the uniform color for dragoons as dark green.

The introduction of uniforms by August II, or rather the set of uniform reforms up to 1721, resulted in significant changes, firmly setting the principle of uniforms as critical gear. First of all, reforms made uniform appearance an unconditional duty. Secondly, regulations controlled the methods for providing uniforms for the whole army. Old traditions of cut and color were broken as western or Saxon fashions were introduced. Polish cavalry alone maintained the traditions of Polish dress to 1792, when the Great Seijm ended the artificial system of ‘native and foreign’ style dress, and introduced a homogeneous uniform based on national traditions.

The Textile Industry Infrastructure required to support Military Uniform Needs

Affirmation of the existence of “uniformed' Commonwealth troops, and particularly of infantry, rests in part on demonstrating that there were sufficient resources available to meet military demands for cloth, both for the State and Provincial armies. Several pioneer works appeared in past years about the development of the textile industry in Poland, but our knowledge in this area is not sufficient and it requires farther study. ^lxxxvThese works do not pay attention to the period of the 16th-17th C. with the exception of only one^lxxxvi, that between other on evolution of industry in Poland important factor effecting textile mill, troop of Commonwealth must be as main, and mass recipient , and every kind of military unit, or liveries of magnates. However, needs were covered not only by local production, but also by imports.

As we saw in the first part of this article, King Stefan Batory provided coats from imported cloth for the cossack infantry and artillery. Imports of cloth (Baize woolen cloth or finished coats) on a wide scale in the 16^th C. came from Saxony, Łużyc, Czech and Moravia^lxxxvii. Cloth was imported from England, Holland, Germany, and especially Silesia. This practice was immortalized in popular names for cloth e.g. lundisz (london cloth), or ‘sukno łuńskie’^lxxxviii. Foreign names were Polinized, so by london cloth they meant it was English. If it was best quality, it was called ‘fien lundisch’ or ‘fien holandisch’, in the Polinized form this became ‘fay-lendysz’ or ‘felendysz’^lxxxix. The ‘felendysz’ name was also used by the Tyzenhauzowskich factory up to 1794^xc. The price of this material w końcu XVI w. wynosiła po l talarze i 28 gr^xci was 3 zloty per ell (łokieć) in the mid 17^th C.

A Famous import from Silesia is ‘świebodziński’ cloth, from Świebodzin^xcii a textile center lying just beyond several border cities, such as Zielona Gora. Mentioned in an economic work from 1622^xciii is an imported common-place cloth called ‘karazje’^xciv or ‘kiery’ or ‘kiry’ or ‘kirem’^xcv. Thick, simple cloth worn by peasants or military, type not of the best quality, because as it seems, it was not ‘fine’. Its price at the end of the 16^th C. was 24 grosze for a bolt.

All these sorts of textiles were surely produced in country, because except pakłaku (thick low-knap cloth), one does not find other names than it, which apply to imported cloth. Probably, Pakłak meant just karazja or kier, or the simplest most inferior grades of cloth. ^xcvi

The history of the development and state of the clothing industry in Poland has been documented several times already. Despite this it is worthwhile to review the industry in various periods in light of the requirements of the military as major consumers of textiles. Materials concerning both textile production as well as requirements of troops are skimpy, however, they are worth investigation.

As is well known, several great textile centers arose in Poland of the 16^th C. A few textile centers had already existed from the 14^th C. Great Poland's cloth industry was important, and centers of production concentrated at the Silesian borderland. Kościan was the most famous center of this district already from the 15^th C. being celebrated already for producing high-class ‘rękodzielników’ cloth^xcvii, that compared to that of Flanders. Międzyrzec contained forty textile workshops. Other centers include Wschow, and somewhat further away, Kalish. The textile industry of great Poland from the mid 16^th C, competed with some difficulty because the raw material i.e. wool, fetched a high price overseas and was a substantial Polish export at this time. ^xcviii

Another concentrated textile mill district was near Sieradzkiej and łęczyckiej, with centers in Sieradzu, Łęczycy, Piotrkowie and Brzezinach, where 300 masters worked. This district was “original source and in the 16^th C., already at its peak. It was best known for fabrication of so-called ‘peasant cloth. ⁹⁵ Surely kiereję and kier.

Mazovian factories started production in the second half of the 17th century,^xcix and failed after a few years^c. Two other textile centers were Plotsk, which emerged in 1577 ^ci and Czersk, which produced a fabric called londrynem’.^cii While not of the very highest quality it was similar to imported English cloth. The textile mill industry of Little Poland was concentrated in the area of Wisłoki , Dunajc and Krakow, as well as in Busk^ciii. The end of the 16^th C. and early 17^th C. saw the rapid development of the Gdansk textile mills.

Now let's review the collected materials from a broad perspective. Historians researching the evolution of textile industry in Poland have ascertained that in the Mazovian district in the 16^th C the textile mills produced at a high level without an earlier lengthy period of development, as in Great Poland. After this lively productive period, a rapid decay of production followed which leveled off at the end of the century. It's known Great Poland had difficulty securing economical sources of wool, which was profitably exported as raw material. So, it seems that the difficulties stemmed not from lack of production capability nor lack of orders, but on a lack of (cheap) raw material that made filling orders impossible.

In the same period, history records the first certain appearance of “uniforms” in the Polish army about 1557. Infantry was much changed by the reforms of King Stefan Batory. He understood the necessity of boosting of number of infantry, organizing it and equipping it in modern gear, without protective armor, and in “uniforms”. Our knowledge owes much to the writings of Gawarecki, grantee of the monopoly privilege granted in 1577 by Stefan Batory to Plotsk’s weaver’s guild. This date precedes by one year the royal declaration authorizing conscription of the ‘Select’ infantry. Unfortunately, we lack exact dates of the founding or at least production for the mills in the Sieradzko-łęczyckim area. The growth of this center to a position of dominance and the demands for materials for uniforms may not be coincidental. In any case these mills lost their dominant position at the end of the 16^th C., i.e. after the death in 1586 of Stephan Batory. It's known that the stock of the ‘select’ infantry fell, that Batory was Infantry’s champion as well as organizer. It is possible to add to the above another consideration, that the Sieradzko-łęczycki mills produced so called “peasant cloth”, so called london Czersk, exactly of the sort needed for infantry uniforms. ‘Peasant cloth’ is not pakłaku cloth (of the type that would be common later, in the 17^th C.), but rather thick kier, as noted by Gostkowski^civ, that karazja was allocated for hajduks and fact that it produced an average sort of Czersk cloth, ‘London’ style. We know Batory’s cossack infantry received such cloth. Difficulties in acquiring raw materials in Great Poland's mills coincided with enhanced demand for cloth for the military in this time.

Was there a failure by the textile mills in Sieradzko-łęczyckim and Mazovia to meet the demands for cloth by the military? Possibly, but unlikely. It is possible to conclude, on closer examination, that while the production of cloth required by military decreased by a certain degree, it was not interrupted. The centers of these industries were being relocated. So, we know about strong development at the turn of the 16-17th C. in Gdansk. It is possible to connect this fact with the export of Polish wool, which also slowed development of Great Poland's textile mills. Wool was shipped to Moscow, Silesia and by sea via Gdansk to Holland^cv. This convenient situation could encourage the rise of a textile mill center in this city, supplying goods to Poland.

In the first half of the 17^th C. fundamental infrastructure changes in Great Poland led to higher production of quality goods. Emigration of weavers from Silesia, prompted by disruptions from the 30 years war, contributed to textile industry capacity. These emigrants to Poland settled permanently, creating new textile centers and contributing their experience to the improvement of quality and production. The traditional centers of Great Poland's textile industry again grew, including Bojanowa, Międzyrzecza and Rawicza, whose products were celebrated throughout the whole country. Fabric was exported to Silesia, Bohemia, Prussia and Moscow. An analogous situation emerged in Gdansk, where new weaving techniques arrived from Holland.^cvi In spite of enhanced cloth production, internal demand did not fall off, but even grew^cvii. This can be understood better if we realize that this period coincides with the constant need to equip troops because of the wars of the first decades of the 17^th C., as well as because of the organization of military power on a wide scale by Władysław IV in 1633 and 1634. The weavers escaped from Silesia just as whole units of mercenary troops entered Polish service fresh from Thirty-years-war battlefields. Commonwealth infantry is also conscripted in the 1634 Seijm, as ‘chimney’ or ‘furrow’ infantry in the uniform colors of their province. ^cviii

Sieradzko-łęczyckim was led by Brzeziny, in the vicinity of today's lodz. They worked on a big scale for the Lvow and Cracow markets and for export, especially to the East.^cix The rest of the workshops of this district were around Sieradzu, Konin, and Kole.

In the first half of the 17^th C a new manner of marketing cloth took hold, based on production monopolies operating independently from factors or buyers - called “nakładców”^cx. These were sometimes 'rich industrialists’, or even peasants who become rich reselling large amounts of wool. This manner of business had already existed in Silesia. In Poland, in the discussed time, one could find in Brzezinach, in the district of łęczyck, and in Great Poland's district of Lesznie^cxi and Międzyrzeczu, where textile firms received exclusive trade privileges from Zygmunt III for grey ordinary cloth^cxii. Such monopolies existed in Torun too and a wide range in Gdansk. The owner of one of the biggest such textile enterprises in the east was the merchant Nicolo Baccaralli, who bought up semi-finished textiles and undertook big supply contracts for the royal court and for the army¹⁰⁸. It is known that enterprises of these types were fought by Guilds, but were supported by kings and military factors, as they simplified procurement for the government and military^cxiii. A question comes to mind, if does not have privilege of Zygmunt III for with sometimes association it Międzyrzeczan. The Swedish invasion in 1655-1656 ruined the economic base of Poland; it destroyed production facilities. However, by 1658 uniforms for the Furrow infantry were already being procured and there is affirmation of the existence of some textile centers. It allows us to assume that they were lifted from ruin and slowly rebuilt.

It is possible to identify Lubelszcz^cxiv as the major center of textile production in the second half of 17^th C., with Zamosht gaining. From 1643 on Zamosht produced the narrow ‘ordinary cloth”. The production capacity situation for cloth was somewhat ameliorated by 1696 when Zamosht added new textile mills in Rawicz. There existed also a textile mill firm owned by Tomas Lubelski, recorded in 1688 apparently operating at least from 1661 -1694^cxv. Mention of the same textile mill centers in Great Poland in the second half of the 17^th C., a period of textile industry growth, proves that they could have existed in spite of lack of confirmation in surviving documentation. Iconographic sources prove that when King Jan III was organizing his armies the military demand for cloth of every kind must have been big. According to every credible source, imports (of fabrics) covered part of the need, however, local workshops also contributed to the supply, particularly, for uniforms for furrow infantry and dragoons. Supplies for uniforms however, as is well known in history, were insufficient for the 1683 Vienna expedition and this state lasted until the reforms in the early 18th C.

COMPARISON OF PROVINCIAL ARMORIAL COLORS IN THE POLISH LITHUANIAN COMMONWEALTH^cxvi

Województwo Province	Kolor tła Color of background	Kolor godła Color of device
krakowskie (Cracow) poznańskie (Poznan)	czerwony (Red) czerwony (Red)	biały (White) biały (White)

Województwo Province	Kolor pola Color of field	Kolor godła Color of device
sandomierskie	błękitny (Blue)	złoty (?) żółty (Golden)
	biały (White)
	czerwony (Red)
kaliskie	czerwony (Red)	czarny (Black)
sieradzkie	czerwony (Red)	czarny (Black)
	żółty (Yellow)	czerwony (Red)
łęczyckie	biały (White)	czerwony (Red)
	czerwony (Red)	biały (White)
kujawskie	żółty (Yellow)	czarny (Black)
		biały (White)
ruskie	błękitny (Blue)	złoty (żóły) (Golden)
podolskie (Podolian)	biały (White)	złoty (żótły) (Golden)
lubelskie	czerwony (Red)	brązowy Brown (?) czarny (Black)
bełzkłe	czerwony (Red)	biały (White)
płockie	czerwony (Red)	czarny (Black)
mazowieckie (mazovian)	czerwony (Red)	biały (White)
rawskie	czerwony (Red)	czarny (Black)
Wileńskie	czerwony (Red)	biały (White)
Trockie	czerwony (Red)	biały (White)
Wołyńskie	czerwony (Red)	biały (White)
Kijowskie	czerwony (Red)	biały (White)
Z. Żmudzka	czerwony (Red)	czarny (Black)
Smoleńskie	szary (Grey)	czerwony (Red)
Nowogrodzkie	czerwony (Red)	czarny (Black)
Witebskie	czerwony (Red)	biały (White)
Podlaskie (podlasia)	biały (White)
Brześciańskie	czerwony (Red)	błękitny (Blue)
Mścisławskie	—	—
Mińskie	—	—
Bracławskie	czerwony (Red)	biały (White)
Ks. Pruskie (prussian)	złoty (żółty) (Golden)	czarny (Black)
Pomorskie (pomeranian)	biały (White)	czerwony (Red)
Wołoskie	biały (White)	czarny (Black)

ziemia Regions	Przynależność do wojew. Membership of province	Kolor tła Color of background	Kolor godła Color of device
Dobrzyńska	Kujawskie	czerwony (Red)
	Inowrocław
Przemyska	Ruskie	błękitny (Blue) (Blue)
Halicka	Ruskie	biały (White)	czarny (Black)
Chełmska	Ruskie	zielony (Green)	biały (White)
Wieluńska	Sieradzkie	biały (White)
Sądecka	Krakowskie (cracow)	czerwony (Red)
		złoty (żółty)Golden (Yellow)
		błękitny (Blue)	złoty(?)żółty Golden
Liwska	Mazowieckie (mazovian)	biały (White)	czarny (Black)
		czerwony (Red)	czerwony (Red) (Red)
Ks. Zatorskie		błękitny (Blue)	biały (White)
Ks. Oświęcimskie	Krakowskie (cracow)	błękitny (Blue)	czerwony (Red)

i Simonis Starovolsci, Institutorum Rei Milłtaris Libri VIII... Cracoviae, 1640, Liber III, Caput XXI. De Ornatu et Yestitu Militum, s. 148.

ii fabled eastern warrior ancestors of the Poles

iii Kopia: 18 foot long lance of the hussars

iv Niektóre okoliczności bezkrólewia po obraniu Henryka. Wybranie Stefana Ba torego. Z rękopisu Orzelskiego, J. U. Niemcewicz. Zbiór pamiętników o dawnej Polszcze, Lipsk 1839, t. II, s. 86.

v S. Kutrzeba, Polskie ustawy i artykuły wojskowe od XV do XVIII wieku, Kraków, 1937, s. 83L

vi K u t r z e b a, op. cii, s. TO.

vii Tamże, s. 51.

viii Uniform, uniformowy; używany tu w znaczeniu ścisłym jako jednolitość .w ubio rze i uzbrojeniu.

ix LOST!!!!

x Akwarela przypuszczalnie Baltazara Gebbarda z .r. 1605 przedstawiają ca wjazd orszaku ślubnego Zygmunta III do Krakowa. Stokholm, Liyrustkam- maren.

xi Relacja ostanie politycznym i wojskowym Polski przez • Sebastiana Gefali, sekretarza Jerzego Lubomirskiego. Relacje nuncjuszów apostolskich i innych osób' w Polsce. Berlin — Poznań, 1864, t. II, s. 32tf—334.

xii Mikołaj Dyakowski, Dyaryusz Wiedeńskiej Okazyi r. 1683, Kraków, 1861, s. 63. .

xiii Regulamin z r. 1.IX.1746 dla wojsk W. Ks. Lit. Kit o wieź, Opis obyczajów, Kraków, 1925, s.

xiv Muzeum Narodowe w Warszawie. Galeria malarstwa XVI w.

xv Giovanni Paolo> M u c a ń t e, Diariusz z podróży... Kardynała Henryka Gaeta no w Polsce (tłum. J. U. Niemcewicza). J. U. Niemcewicz, Zbiór pamiętni ków o dawnej Polszcze, Lipsk 1839, t. II, s. 112.

xvi Starowolski Szymon, Eąues Polonus, Venet. 1628, Wyd. Turowskiego, Kraków, 1858

xvii Wypis z podróży Pani de Guebriant, posłowej nadzwyczajnej do Polski za Władysława IV, s. 204.

xviii Sebastian Cefali, Relacja o stanie Polski, 1665, Czas 1859.

xix Przesławnego wjazdu do Krakowa i... koronaciej Henryka Walezyusa... wir- szem opisanie przez Mathysa Strykowius a..., Kraków, 1574, przedruk XIX w., s. 448—51.

xx Nowakowski F. K., Źródła do dziejów Polski zebrane i wydane, Berlin 1841, Sz. Morawski, Dod. do Czasu 1859, s. 244. Za nimi B. Gembarzewski, Husarze, 1939, s. 12.

xxi Diariusz z podróży i pobytu kardynała Henryka Gaetano w Polszcze, pisany przez sekretarza jego Giovanni Paulo M u c a n t e (tłumaczenie J. U. Niemcewi cza). J. U. Niemcewicz, Zbiór Pamiętników o dawnej Polszcze. Lipsk, 1939, tom II, s. 111.

xxii W Muzeum Wojska Polskiego znajduje się 7 proporców husarskich z jedwabiu karmazynowego z białymi wężami.

xxiii Jak ods. 8.

xxiv Z powodu niemożności obejrzenia oryginału, dokładnej kopii lub ścisłego opisu.

xxv Kurier Warszawski nr 114 z 1827, za nim „Flora pismo krakowskie, za nim Łukasz Gołębiowski, Ubiory w Polszcze... Warszawa 1830, s. 249.

xxvi ²²³ E. G. G e y e r, Geschichte Schwedens, Hamburg 1836, t. III, s. 121. Notatkę tę zawdzięczam uprzejmości mgr. Jerzego Teodorczyka.

xxvii Wypis z podróży p. de G u e b r i a n t, s. 173.

xxviii Wojciech Dębołęcki, Przewagi elearów polskich co ich Lisowczykami zwano, Poznań 1623. Puławy 1830

xxix I. Polkowski. Sprawy wojenne króla Stefana Batorego... z lat 1576—1586. Kraków, 1887, s. 118.

xxx Diariusz oblężenia i zdobycia Wieliża, Wielkich Łuk i Zawołocia od 1. VIII do 25.XI.1580 r. Tamże, s. 227.

xxxi B i e l s k i M. i J., Kronika polska, Kraków 1597, s. 570.

xxxii Heidenstein, De bello Moscovitico commentariorum libris ex, Cracoviae, 1584, Ks. III, s. 120,

xxxiii Regesłr tych pp. rotmistrzów, co wybrance wiodą z własnych dóbr JKrMci, którzy się w Brześciu Lit. pisali anno Domini 1581. Górski Historia Piechoty, Kraków, 1893, s. 235.

xxxiv Podaje K. Górski, tamże, s. 25. Gerlach, Chłopi w obronie Rzeczypospo litej, Lwów 1939, s. 96, 98*.

xxxv M Jw.

xxxvi G. P. M u cant e, op. cit, s. 111. ^:i:1 Tamże, s. 100.

xxxvii Podaje Górski, op. cit., s. 25.

xxxviii Podaje K. Górski, Historia piechoty, s. 236, Gerlach, op. cit, s. 127.

xxxix Arch. Państw. Lwów. Castr. Leop. podaje Gerlach, op. cit., s. 128 i 146.

xl Nr MWP 589l1

xli Akta grodzkie i ziemskie wyd. Kluczyckiego XXIV, podaje Gerlach, op. cit, s. 138.

xlii Nr 58911 MWP.

xliii Gerlach, op. cit, s. 95.

xliv Gerlach, op. cit., s. 99.

xlv Lustracja z r. 1661, Baliński i Lipiński, Starożytna Polska, t. I, s. 261.

xlvi Lustracja z 1653 r. Tamże, t. II cz. l, s. 455.

xlvii Podaje Szczotka, Chłopi obrońcami niepodległości Polski w okresie Po topu, Kraków, 1946, s. 19.

xlviii Akta grodzkie i ziemskie, wyd. Kluczyckiego, t. XXIV,s.116—117. Podaje Szczotka, op. cit., s. 20.

xlix Tamże, t. XXI, s. 163-164.

l Yolumina Legum, t. IV, s. 221-222.

li Akta grodzkie i ziemskie, wyd. Kluczyckiego, t. XXI, s. 168, Szczotka, op. cit., s. 24 i 30.

lii Teki Ulanowskiego, Lauda sieradzkie, tamże, s. 24—25 i 30.

liii Patrz ods. 49.

liv Muzealnictwo t. II

lv Teki Ulanowskiego, Lauda oświęcimsko-zatorskie, Szczotka, op. cit., s. 258 i 262.

lvi B a l i ń s k i i Lipiński, Starożytna Polska. Według indeksu.

lvii Andrzej Bruchnalski, Nieznane materiały do ikonografii piechoty łanowej z lat 1680—83. „Arsenał , kwartalnik Koła Miłośników Dawnej Broni i Barwy przy Muzeum Narodowym w Krakowie, 1959 r., nr 4, s. 101.

lviii Kolory podane według określeń A. Bruchnalskiego.

lix Uzupełnienie Jana Bendy, „Arsenał , jak ods. 55, s. 106.

lx Jan Benda, Komentarz do ikonografii piechoty łanowej z lat 1680—83. „Arsenał , jw., s. 104.

lxi Niezgodność w zsumowaniu poszczególnych kolorów z sumą ogólną woje wództw pochodzi ,stąd, że niektóre herby wojewódzkie składają się z trzech ko lorów,

lxii Podaje K. Górski. Historia Piechoty Polskiej, s. 25, G e r l a c h, op. cit., s. 91.

lxiii Szczotka, op. cit., s. 19—25.

lxiv Szczotka, op. cit., s. 259—260.

lxv „Arsenał , op. cit. s. 101—107.

lxvi Rkps Biblioteki Jagiellońskiej nr 155/52. Przybytki. Rok 1689. Notatka otrzymana dzięki uprzejmości mgr. W. Majewskiego.

lxvii Informacje Imć Panu Michałowskiemu... 1703 anno, rkps ze Zbiorów Czarto- ryskich, 2640. Podaje Jan W i m m e r, Wojsko Rzeczypospolitej w dobie wojny północnej, Warszawa 1956, s. 16$.

lxviii Rkps H43/3, Kronika G. G o t s c h a. Archiwum m. Elbląga, Woj. Arch. Państw, w Gdańsku. Wiadomość tę zawdzięczam uprzejmości mgr. Danuty Milewskiej z Muzeum Miejskiego w Elblągu.

lxix Militłbus Borsthenis Nizóyii dictis, 1579, Górski, Historia piechoty, s. 242 i s. 37.

lxx Księga skarbowa 3. Sposób wyprawy na wojnę Moskiewską za króla JM Stefana — Niżowcem. Źródła dziejowe, tom IX, cz. II, s. 295.

lxxi Distributa pecuniarum militibus... z r. 1576. Tamże, s. 157.

lxxii De Guebriant, op. cii, s. 173.

lxxiii Tamże.

lxxiv Tamże, s. 174.

lxxv De Gue b r ian t, op. cit., s. 173.

lxxvi Rewizja zamków ziemi wołyńskiej w połowie XVI wieku. Wyd. A. Jabłonow-ski, Warszawa 1877.

lxxvii Rewizja wdztwa płockiego, 1552, opr. J. Szujski. Scriptores Rerum Poloni- carum. Ed. Academiae Cracoviensis, Kraków, 1872, t. V, s. 183.

lxxviii Tamże.

lxxix 1581. Distributa pecuniae in yarias, communes et privatas. S. Mtis R. neces- sitates... Źródła dziejowe, tom IX, cz. II, s. 58.

lxxx „Artykuły przesławnej artylerii oficerom wyższej i niższej rangi, tudzież i innym do niej należącym personom łaskawie nadane od Najjaśniejszego i Najpotężniejszego Władysława IV, z Bożej Łaski Króla Polskiego w obozie pod Smoleńskiem die 6 Januarii 1643 Górski, Historia Artylerii, W-wa 1902, s. 129—138.

lxxxi Akta Grodzkie i ziemskie, wyd. Kluczyckiego, podaje G e r l a c h, op. cit, s. 138.

lxxxii Poselstwo hrabiego d'Avaux do Polski 1636 r. Skarbiec Sienkiewicza I, s. 97—161. Plan, s. 140.

lxxxiii Dragonów ubranych błękitno podaje również G,e mbarzewski według gobelinu przedstawiającego bitwę pod Łojowem 1649 r. między wojskami H. P. L. Janusza Radziwiłła i kozakami oraz według, obrazu z 1660 r. w pałacu Wielopol- skich w Krakowie. Gembarzewski, Żołnierz Polski, Ubiór, uzbrojenie i opo rządzenie od X do XVII, t. I. tabl. 212. (Dragoons were dressed in blue according to Gembarzewski in the battle of Łojowem 1649 between the forces of Hetman Janusz Radziwiłł and the Cossacks, according to a 1660 picture in palace Wielopolski in Crakow . Gembarzewski, Polish Soldier, dress and arms from 10th to 17^th C, I. tabl. 212.)

lxxxiv Informacyja Im ć Panu Michałowskiemu... 1703 anno, rkps. Czart. 2640 po daje Jan Wimmer, Wojsko Rzeczypospolitej w dobie wojny północnej, W-wa, 1956.

lxxxv Marian Małowist. Rzemiosło polskie w okresie Odrodzenia, Warszawa 1954 — A. .$M ą-c z a k, H. Samsonowicz, B. Zientara, Z dziejów rzemiosła w Polsce, Warszawa 1954 — W. Kula, Szkice o manufakturach w Polsce XVIII w. Warszawa 1956. A. Arnold i M. Bogucka, Rozkwit gospodarczy miast (XVI w.), B. Baranowski i S. Herbst, Pogorszenie się warunków rozwoju miast, produkcji przemysłowej i górnictwa (XVII w.); K. Piwarski, Upadek gospodarczy miast (XVII w.), Historia Polski, PAN, Warszawa 1957 s.

lxxxvi B. Baranowski i S. Herbst, op. cit.

lxxxvii Arnold i Bogucka, op. cit., s. 131.

lxxxviii Księgi podskarbińskie z czasów Stefana Batorego, 1576—1586, Warszawa 1881, s. 294—5. Źródła dziejowe t. IX.

lxxxix Linde, Słownik Języka Polskiego, Warszawa 1807. Briickner, Słownik etymologiczny, Warszawa, b.d.

xc Próby sukna manufaktur kompanicznych grodzieńskich, R. 1794 miesiąca Junii 4 dnia dane do Warszawy, nr 22/A MWP.

xci Dla porównania: cena trzewików w 158*1 r. wynosiła 4 talary 20 groszy. Źródła... t. IX s. 58.

xcii Księgi podskarbińskie, op. cit., s. 194.

xciii W. Gostkowski, Sposób jakim góry złote w Królestwie Polskim napra wić, 1622, s. 106.

xciv Klonowicz, Flis, 1600: „Wnet będzie flis u swoich, w sukmanie swej no wej karazyjowej . Podaje Linde, Słownik, 1807, hasło karazja. W. G os t k o ws k i, op. cit., s. 87: „Na heyduki karazyi... Podaje Linde, op. cit. K. Opaliński, Satyry albo przestrogi, Kraków 1650, s. 25: „Nie frasuj się, sstapi się to jako karazja .

Księgi podskarbińskie, op. cit., s. 94, patrz. ods. 87. Karazja, sukno proste grube hiszpańskie, nazwa pochodzi od pannus Carisianus, z m. Jercz, Xeres, Xserisum. Linde, Słownik Języka Polskiego, Warszawa 1808¹, t. I, .cz. 2, s. 960.

xcv Z biegiem czasu nazwa kir oznaczała gorszy gatunek sukna. Jako taki uży wany był dość często do dekoracji pogrzebowych i nazwa zaczęła oznaczać czarną żałobną materię.

xcvi Linde, op. cit.

xcvii M. B a l i ń s k i i T. L i p i ń s k i, Starożytna Polska, t. I, s. 72.

xcviii A r n o l d i Bogucka, op. cit., s. 129.

xcix Małowist, op. cit., s. 13.

c Tamże.

ci Gawerecki, Pisma historyczne, Warszawa 1824, s. 80. Tenże wiadomość o mieście Płocku, Warszawa 1821, s. 81.

cii Słownik Geograficzny Królestwa Polskiego i in. krajów słowiańskich, Warszawa 1880—1895. Hasło: Czersk.

ciii Słownik Geograficzny, hasło: Busk.

civ Patrz ods. 90.

cv A r n o l d i B o g u c k a, op. cit., s. 129 21 — Muzealnictwo t. II

cvi Baranowski i Herbst, op. cit., s. 453. ^10:ł Macza k, op. cit., s. 182.

cvii Missing footnote

cviii Vol. leg. t. II, s. 395. Hubert, Historia wojenna polska... Lwów—Warszawa 1921, s. 18*2.

cix Macza k, op. cit., s. 186—187.

cx Nakładców -I think a somewhat derogatory term meaning something like ‘Skimmers’ or ‘Profiteers’

cxi B. Baranowski i S. Herbst, Pogorszenie się warunków rozwoju miast, Historia Polski, PAN, s. 455.

cxii Baliński i L i p i ń s k i, op. cit, t. I, s. 91.

cxiii Patrz ods. 106.

cxiv B a r t y ś, Sukiennictwo w ordynacji Zamojskiej w I połowie XIX w. Przegląd Historyczny XLIX. Nr 3, s. 486. Tamże źródła: WAP Lublin, Arch. Ord. Zamojskiej ze Zwierzyńca, 10018-Bibl. PAU w Krakowie, rkps 735.

Lublin byś ośrodkiem handlu suknem. Przez komorę celną w Lublinie przechodziły „sukna: purpurian, włoskie, łuńskie (londyńskie) swobodzińskie, czeskie, gierliczkie (gorlickie), bukowskie, bunisławskie, szamotulskie, czarne mazowieckie, morawskie . — „Sprowadzano tu na sprzedaż prócz krajów, sukna z Włoch, Francji i Niemiec — Baliński i Lipiński, Starożytna Polska t. II cz. 2 s. 1081 i 7071.

cxv Słownik Geograficzny... 1890, hasło Szczebrzeszyn.

cxvi Według Paprockiego, Herby Rycerstwa, Kraków 1584 oraz N i e s i e c-kiego, Korona Polska, Lwów 1728.

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