Materials Science in Light Industry Production (Материаловедение в производстве изделий легкой промышленности). Учебное пособие

10. Дайте краткую аннотацию текста к упражнению 6.

Lesson 18. Karakul: Features and Types

1. Прочитайте и переведите следующие глаголы:

to increase, to deteriorate, to set, to gather, to sew, to prohibit, to cause, to value, to impart, to preserve, to apply, to breed, to supply

2. Прочитайте следующие интернациональные слова вслух и, основываясь на значениях соответствующих русских

слов, определите их значение:

karakul, identical, to export, product, karakulcha, specialization, tendency

3. Прочитайте и переведите следующие прилагательные: unique, significant, valuable, similar, identical, homogeneous, complicated, antiquated, fine, widely spread

61

5. Прочитайте и переведите текст.

Karakul: Features and Types

A karakul sheep was the first animal which people have begun to breed because of its beautiful fur. A high level of adaptation to semi-desert conditions has made this breed very popular among the peoples of the Middle Asia. The Khorezm khanate – the territory of the present Uzbekistan is supposed to be the “historic home-land” of the karakul sheep.

Every karakul fell is a unique thing therefore pedigree breeding has got a great importance. The most significant feature of a karakul sheep fell is its curls forming a surface tracery, or curlicue. The forms, dimensions and combinations of curls are the main characteristics of the karakul fell quality. The fells with long rows of curls creating the tracery resembling X – ray photograph of a thorax are considered to be especially valuable. The “curly” sorts of karakul

62

are the cheapest. With the years the length of lamb’s hair is increasing, so the quality of curls is deteriorating.

The different directions of selection in producing countries have led to the creation of three sorts of karakul (the Uzbek, the Afghan and Swakara) which are similar to each other but not identical. Every karakul fell of a high quality is set much. The Swakara is considered to be the most expensive sort of karakul, as long as the number of fells in the world market is small but fell traceries are beautiful. The Afghanian karakul is the most widely spread and an actual demand for it is very high since it can be gathered in large homogeneous batches. 90% of all articles, made of gray karakul are sewn of the Afghanian origin skins. The situation with the Uzbek karakul is more complicated. On the one hand, the present laws of Uzbekistan selective work, has caused the bulk of goods to be a cheap karakul of low quality. Furthermore, the high karakul of “jaketney” sort, which was the main product of Uzbek specialization, is considered to be an antiquated material. The latest fashion has a propensity for the flat ribbed sort of karakul. In connection with such tendencies the karakulcha (“broad tail”) is valued very high because of the fine moiré sketch of a future tracery. Swakara is being sold at Kopenhagen Fur auctions, the Afghanian karakul is basically supplied to Finish Fur Sales and partially to Copenhagen. The Volume of Uzbek karakul deliveries to the world market is rather small.

6.Ответьте на вопросы.

1.What are the main characteristics of the karakul fell?

2.What kind of fells is considered to be the most valuable?

3.What sorts of karakul are the cheapest?

4.What are the main sorts of karakul?

5.Which kind of karakul is considered to be the most expensive one?

6.Why is the demand for the Afghanian karakul high?

7.Определите, являются ли следующие утверждения верными в соответствии с текстом упражнения 5.

63

1.With the years the length of lamb’s hair is increasing, the quality of curls is improving.

2.90% of all articles, made of grey karakul are sewn of the Swakara origin skins.

3.The high karakul of “jaketney” sort is considered to be old fashioned.

4.The karakulcha is valued very high because of the beauty of the fell traceries.

5.The volume of Uzbek karakul deliveries to the world market is increasing every day.

6.The largest part of karakul production is being exported all over the world.

8.Дайте краткую аннотацию текста к упражнению 6.

Lesson 19. Karakul Colours

1. Прочитайте и переведите следующие глаголы:

to be widely spread, to be explained, to impart, to dye, to preserve, to belong to, to be considered

2. Прочитайте следующие интернациональные слова вслух и, основываясь на значениях соответствующих русских

слов, определите их значение:

charm, neutral, conversion, intensive, sort, beige, platinum, bronze

3.Прочитайте и переведите следующие прилагательные: widely spread, spectacular, convenient, intensive, deadened, rare, ginger, pure, luxurious, stylish, casual

4.Подберите эквивалентный перевод словосочетаний из колонки А в колонке В.

64

5. Прочитайте и переведите текст.

Karakul Colours

The black colour is the most widely spread colour of karakul. It has got the most spectacular tracery. The charm of grey karakul can be explained by colour playing, but its tracery is less interesting than the black one. Depending on the correlation of black and white hair quantities the possible natural colours of grey karakul lie in the range from a light grey-blue colour to a black one with a grey spine. The presence of some brown hair on the grey karakul fell imparts it a fine lilac tint. Such sort of karakul is called “guligaz” (in Uzbek it means “a flower of tamarisk”). The grey karakul is a very convenient material for dyeing, for a neutral grey colour does not make colours distortions. After dyeing the spectacular colour conversion is well preserved: from intensive colours (on the places with white hair) to deadened colours (on the places with dark hair). The brown karakul belongs to the rare sorts, and it is not often applied with its natural colour because of a long range of colourations: from chocolate colour to beige, from ginger to cold pale-yellow one. The most valuable sort of brown karakul is called “sur”. Intensity of its colour is changing along height of hair: at the roots it is darker, on the tops – lighter. During “the best years” of selective work three “sur” strains of the seven colours (silvery, goldish, bronzed, platinum, steel-blue and colours of ‘apricot flower”) were being bred in the USSR. The rarest colour of karakul is a white one. Only swakara has a pure colour of milk; Afghanian white karakul is considered most probably

65

to be a rare, casual variation of a light grey colour.

Karakul can create extremely bright and extraordinary combinations with such materials as crocodile leather, feather, lynx and badger fur. Thus, on coming back from non-existence and oldfashioned wardrobes, karakul has become a desired kind of fur not only for those people who follow the considerations of comfort and utility, but even for those who appreciate spectacular and luxurious stylish clothes.

6.Ответьте на вопросы.

1.Which karakul colour is the most widely spread?

2.What sort of karakul is called “guligaz”?

3.Is the grey karakul convenient for dyeing?

4.What is the most valuable sort of karakul?

5.Which karakul colour is the rarest one?

6.What sorts of “sur” strains were being bred in the USSR during “the best years” of selective work?

7.Определите, являются ли следующие утверждения

верными в соответствии с текстом упражнения 5.

1.The white karakul has the most spectacular tracery.

2.The presence of some white hair on the grey karakul fell imparts it a fine lilac tint.

3.The grey karakul belongs to the rare sorts.

4.Intensity of the “sur” karakul is changing along the height of hair: at the roots it is lighter, on the tops – darker.

5.During “the best years” of selective work three “sur” strains of the eight colours were being bred in the USSR.

6.Only Afghanian karakul has a pure colour of milk.

8.Дайте краткую аннотацию текста к упражнению 5.

Lesson 20. Fake Fur

1. Прочитайте следующие интернациональные слова вслух и, основываясь на значениях соответствующих русских

66

слов, определите их значение:

imitation, dramatic, combination, polymer, acrylic, acrylonitrile, silicone, polypropylene, cellulose, polyester, nylon, resin, thermoplastic, vinyl chloride monomer

2. Прочитайте и переведите следующие глаголы:

to introduce, to simulate, to fashion, to imitate, to compose, to elevate, to derive, to occur, to improve, to attach, to complete, to match, to allow, to label, to launder, to supplement, to resist

3.Прочитайте и переведите следующие прилагательные: tremendous, fake (faux), dramatic, durable, resistant, attractive, appropriate, elevated, light-weight, springy, fluffy, resilient, susceptible, semi-synthetic, smooth, unique

4.Подберите эквивалентный перевод словосочетаний из колонки А в колонке В.

5. Прочитайте и переведите текст.

Fake Fur

Fake fur is a type of the textile fabric fashioned to simulate genuine animal fur. It is known as a pile fabric and is typically made from polymeric fibres that are processed, dyed, and cut to match a

67

specific fur texture and colour. First introduced in 1929, advances in polymer technology have tremendously improved the fake fur quality. Today's fake furs are nearly indistinguishable from the natural furs they imitate.

Although they can never match the characteristics of natural furs, fake furs do have certain advantages over their natural counterparts. Unlike natural furs, fake furs can be coloured almost any shade, allowing for more dramatic colour combinations. Additionally, fake furs are more durable and resistant to environmental assaults. In fact, some are even labeled hand washable. With concerns over the environment and animal rights, more and more fashion designers are developing garments using fake fur. Lastly, fake furs are much less expensive than natural furs, making them an attractive option for many people.

Fake furs are made with a variety of materials. The bulk fibres are typically composed of polymers, including acrylics, modacrylics, or appropriate blends of these polymers. Acrylic polymers are made from chemicals derived from coal, air, water, petroleum, and limestone. They are the result of a chemical reaction of an acrylonitrile monomer under conditions of elevated pressure and heat. For fake furs, secondary monomers are also added to improve the ability of the acrylic fibres to absorb dyes. Modacrylic polymers are copolymers made by the reaction of acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride monomers. These fibres are particularly useful for fake furs because they can be easily dyed with animal-like colours and have natural fire retardation.

Modacrylic and acrylic polymers have other characteristics that make them useful in fake fur manufacture. They are light-weight and springy, imparting a fluffy quality to the garment. They are also highly resistant to heat, sunlight, soot, and smoke; strong and resilient, and show good stability during laundering. Since they are thermoplastic polymers, they can be heatset. They resist mildew and are not susceptible to attack from insects. These polymers also have very low moisture absorbency and will dry quickly.

Other naturally occurring fabrics are also used to make fake furs and improve the look and feel of the overall garment. These

68

include materials such as silk, wool, and mohair. Cotton or wool, along with polypropylene, is typically used to make the backings to which the fibres are attached. Rayon, a semisynthetic fibre made from cellulose and cotton linters, is used to supplement acrylic and modacrylic fibres on the garment, as are polyester and nylon. Materials such as silicones and various resins are used to improve the smoothness and luster of fake furs. To complete the look of a fake fur, dyes and colourants are used. If a true imitation is desired, designers match the colour with natural fur. However, fashion designers have found that the fake fur fabric has merits of its own and have started using colours and styles that give it its own new, unique look.

6.Ответьте на вопросы.

1.What is the application of fake fur?

2.What is the fake fur made from?

3.When was the fake fur introduced first?

4.What are the advantages of the fake fur over their natural counterparts?

5.Why are more and more fashion designers developing garments using fake fur?

6.What materials are used in the fake fur manufacture? What is their effect on the quality of fake fur?

7.What naturally occurring fabrics are used to make fake fur?

8.What is the use of silicones and various resins in the fake fur manufacture?

7.Определите, являются ли следующие утверждения

верными в соответствии с текстом упражнения 5.

1.It is very difficult or practically impossible to distinguish current fake furs from the natural furs they imitate.

2.Low price of fake furs make them an attractive option for many people.

3.For fake furs, vinyl chloride monomers are also added to improve the ability of the acrylic fibres to absorb dyes.

4.Acrylic fibres are particularly useful for fake furs because

69

they can be easily dyed with animal-like colours and have natural fire retardation.

5.Silk, along with cellulose, is typically used to make the backings to which the fibres are attached.

6.Rayon, a semi-synthetic fibre made from polypropylene and cotton lnters, is used to supplement acrylic and modacrylic fibres on the garment, as are polyester and nylon.

8.Составьте диалог о преимуществах и недостатках искусственного/натурального меха.

9.Дайте краткую аннотацию текста к упражнению 5.

Unit V

DYES

Lesson 21. Dyes

1. Прочитайте и переведите следующие глаголы:

to apply, to precipitate, to carry out, to require, to improve, to absorb, to appear, to obtain

2. Прочитайте следующие интернациональные слова вслух и, основываясь на значениях соответствующих русских

слов, определите их значение:

substance, substrate, pigment, contrast, inert, archaeological, mineral

3. Соедините слова из колонки A со словами из колонки В, чтобы получить словосочетания.

70