Materials Science in Light Industry Production (Материаловедение в производстве изделий легкой промышленности). Учебное пособие

The wild sable pelts are divided according to the place of origin and quality: Barguzunsky, Kamchatsky, Yakutsky, Tobolsky, Eniseysky, Sakhalinsky, Altaisky, Tuvinsky, Minusinsky and Amursky. The Barguzinsky sable are elite ones living in the Baikal area and in the south of Yakutia. The large chocolate-brown, silky pelts with a touch of blue have been known as the crown or imperial Russian sable since the golden age of monarchies. Usually sable colour varies from light yellowish-brown to dark brown, nearly black. Sometimes there is some whitish hair in the pelt, which looks like gray hair. Sable gray hair is very valuable: the more gray hair, the more expensive the item is.

Russia is justly proud of farm sable. We learned to breed this animal after a lot of effort. The farm sable pelts differ little from its wild brother: they are of noble dark colour but bigger and of more uniform quality. However, because it is very difficult to breed sable, the farm sables make only 5 – 10 % of the total number of commercially sold pelts.

Which sable is better: dark or light? The dark one is more expensive. As for beauty, one can argue about it, since beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Besides, golden and sand yellow shades are very much in demand now. Sometimes sable fur is blenched and coloured. Nonetheless, the sable fur nature is so magnificent that is probably is the only fur, which designers try to use in its natural form.

Even though sable items are produced worldwide, the main place of acquisition of real sable pelts is St Petersburg International fur auctions held by Foreign Economics Association Sojuzpushnina, a unique specialist in sables. As far back as the Soviet times, when the state totally controlled the sable trade, all pelts came to Sojuzpushnina, where they were carefully selected, sorted and prepared for the famous fur auctions. Small number of sable pelts comes to western fur auctions but one should be careful there, so long as it has been happening only since 1990-ies, in the West there are no qualified specialists for selection of sable fur. To present furs at an auction, they have to be carefully sorted, and this is real art. Even in Russia there are just few experts in sorting sable furs. At

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least five years are needed to master the foundations of the profession and a few decades to become a real professional. That’s why foreigners still prefer to buy sable fur at the auction, it is much safer. The pelts bought at St Petersburg fur auction have fabric levels with the SOBOL trade mark, and most manufacturers put this label on the ready item, so that the buyer could be sure of the authenticity and the quality of the fur.

There were only a few hundred sable fur coats made, and each of them is a real gem. It is not without reason that the sable fur has no equal in tenderness, colour, thickness and shine. It possesses al the above mentioned qualities like no other. That’s why an owner of a sable item can feel like a real queen even in the XXI century. The matter is not only in the value of the item, it was noted a long time ago that royal sable fur is able to maintain natural charm, beauty and peace of mind of its owner.

6.Ответьте на вопросы.

1.How to choose a proper sable item?

2.What is the classification of the wild sable pelts?

3.What kind of pelts has been known as the crown or imperial Russian sable since the golden age of monarchies?

4.What is the common colouration of the sable?

5.What is the most valuable characteristic of the sable fur?

6.What is the difference between the wild and the farm sable?

7.What kind of pelts is very much in demand now?

8.Why does the sable fur have no equal?

9.How does an owner of a sable fur coat feel and why?

7.Определите, являются ли следующие утверждения

верными в соответствии с текстом упражнения 5.

1.You should be very careful if you decided to acquire a sable item.

2.Sable is closely related to otter.

3.Some expensive and beautiful fur clothes were made of American marten.

4.The Kamchatsky sable is considered to be an elite one.

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5.Russia is justly proud of the wild sable.

6.The farm sables make 25% of the total number of commercially sold pelts.

7.The dark sable is considered to be the best one.

8.The light one with the whitish hair is the most expensive.

8.Составьте рекламу меховых изделий из соболя, опишите преимущества соболиного меха.

9.Дайте краткую аннотацию текста к упражнению 5.

Lesson 16. The Saga about Fox

1. Прочитайте следующие интернациональные слова вслух и, основываясь на значениях соответствующих русских

слов, определите их значение:

process, selection, mutation, classification, exclusive, label, trend, beige, rose, effect, technology, platinum, arctic, burgundy, chaotic, variation

2. Прочитайте и переведите следующие глаголы:

to grow, to sell, to appear, to bleach, to be based on, to be widely used, to exist

3.Прочитайте и переведите следующие прилагательные: abovementioned, rare, exclusive, light, pure

4.Подберите эквивалентный перевод словосочетаний из колонки А в колонке В.

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5. Прочитайте и переведите текст.

The Saga about Fox

Since 18th century people tried to grow blue foxes. But only in the end of the 19th age the first farmed silver fox skins were sold by London Auction House at the crazy price of 2781 USD.

As the process of selection went its own way in every country, for the moment there are 4 main types of farmed silver foxes: Russian, American, Norwegian and Finnish. The best are, of course, last two types – the longest hair, big skins. Norwegian type is excellent for any kind of trimmings and Finnish is ideal for fashion luxurious garments because of extremely long hair. Both Finland and Norway are leaders in mutations (coloured foxes and blue foxes).

The classification below is based on grading system of Finnish Fur Sales (Auction House in Helsinki). “SAGA

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Royal” is label for the best skins of foxes and blue foxes. As natural colours are mostly demanded – there is a lot of space for mutation.

Silver fox is the most typical kind of foxes. It has 3-coloured hair: from dark-grey through white to black. It’s called “silver” because of presence of white colour and has the longest hair. Designers always use it for dyeing. The latest trend is “bleaching” of silver foxes - then it comes into variety of brown and beige shadows. The most expensive type is Golden fox. You can meet very unusual light coloured skins with a kind of pale rose shadow when a part of the hair is white.

Gold Cross fox is called so because of dark cross on the skin. Golden Island fox of pale yellow colour has variation called Shadow Golden Island Fox when white “collar” and sides appear.

The biggest and usual group is Blue foxes. Colour could change from grey to almost white with grey shadow. It is widely used for trimmings. There are several coloured mutations based on Blue fox: Blue Frost fox looks like Silver fox, but doesn’t have long hair. After usage of the same technologies you can see similar effect as on Silver fox. Skins with white “collar” and sides are called Shadow Blue Frost fox. Blue Shadow fox is absolutely white sometimes it has black tops of hairs. It is used after some bleaching. It’s also used when designers need light pure colours. Platinum and Arctic Marble types exist both as foxes and blue foxes mutations. Platinum type has white hairs with grey tops and Arctic Marble has black or white hairs. Burgundy fox is very similar to Silver fox, but instead of black colour you can see vine-brown.

Fox with cinnamon coloured hairs and yellow underwool is called Seychells fox. Fawn Light fox has yellow – rose basic colour with light-brown backbone. Sun Glo fox is white with light reddish backbone and chaotic spots. New mutations appear permanently: Arctic Golden Island, Sapphire Gold, Smokey, Red Stone, Fire Gold, State Glow, Pearl, Amber, etc.

6. Ответьте на вопросы.

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What type of foxes (Silver fox, Golden fox, Gold Cross fox, Golden Island fox, Blue fox, Blue Frost fox, Shadow Blue Frost fox, Blue

Shadow fox, Burgundy fox, Seychelles fox, Fawn light fox, Sun Glo fox):

1.is the most typical kind of fox?

2.is the most expensive one?

3.is called so because of dark cross on the skin?

4.has pale yellow colour?

5.is the biggest group?

6.looks like Silver fox, but doesn’t have long hair?

7.has skin and sides with white collar?

8.is absolutely white?

9.has vine-brown colour?

10.is the fox with cinnamon coloured hair and yellow underwool?

11.has yellow-rose basic colour with light-brown backbone?

12.is white with light reddish backbone and chaotic spots?

7. Определите, являются ли следующие утверждения верными в соответствии с текстом упражнения 5.

1.For the moment there are 3 main types of farmed silver foxes.

2.The best types of farmed silver foxes are Norwegian and Finnish.

3.Finnish type is excellent for any kind of trimmings and Norwegian is ideal for fashion luxurious garments.

4.Designers always use Blue foxes for dyeing.

5.The colour of silver fox can change from grey to almost white with grey shadow.

6.When designers need light pure colours they use Blue Shadow fox.

7.Platinum type has black or white hairs and Arctic Marble has white hairs with grey tops.

8.Дайте краткую аннотацию текста к упражнению 5.

Lesson 17. Mink

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1. Прочитайте и переведите следующие глаголы:

to breed, to rear, to divide, to distribute, to hide, to reproduce, to include, to resemble, to serve, to bore, to stalk

2. Прочитайте следующие интернациональные слова вслух и, основываясь на значениях соответствующих русских

слов, определите их значение:

composition, characteristics, mark, complex, transformation, mutation, gene, pastel, lavender, sapphire, iris, beige, topaz, jaguar

3.Прочитайте и переведите следующие прилагательные: worldwide, fur-bearing, thick, even, enormous, splendid, equal, rare, perfect, wide, universal, extraordinary

4.Подберите эквивалентный перевод словосочетаний из колонки А в колонке В.

5. Переведите названия следующих видов окраса норки:

Scanglow

Scanblack

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Mahogany

Scanbrown

Pastel

Lavender

Sapphire

Violet

Blue Iris

Pearl

Topaz or palomino

Black cross

Sapphire cross

Pastel cross

Jaguar colouration

Stardust or marble mink

6. Прочитайте и переведите текст.

Mink

An American mink is a big and beautiful specimen of the species. And it became a base of the breeding of fur-bearing animals in the 1920’s. Today the worldwide market of farm mink is about 50 millions of skins. Depending on a place of rearing and a composition of ration mink fur has got quite different characteristics and it makes possible to divide relatively the whole mink market into several types. A Russian mink has the highest nap and thick high underwool. A Scandinavian mink is the most widely distributed in the world (it occupies 80% of the worldwide market of farm mink). The main characteristics of it are the even nap of middle height and thick under-wool. There are two types of fur in this group: a Finish selection with a higher fur marked as SAGA Furs and Danish selection with a lower fur marked as Kopenhagen Furs. A North American mink has a low nap and it looks like natural velvet, so long as allow nap almost hides in dense, thick under-wool. The North American mink fur is divided into two marks of quality: American mark (American Legend Mink) and Canadian mark (NAFA Mink). The best black mink has got its own name for both marks: Blackglama for American and Black NAFA for Canadian.

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An American mink is a perfect object for selective transformations as its genes can give enormous quantity of mutations responsible for a fur colour. A range of natural colours of the farm mink is very wide: from white to black through all the brown and grey-blue colours. A natural black mink (its Finnish name is “scanblack”) as any natural black fur has very dark brown fur indeed. A dark brown mink, called “mahogany” is a symbol of the classic mink fur coat. A “wild type” variation reproduces the original natural colour – grey-brown with a dark character. The light coloured Finish mink of a wild type is called “scanglow”, the dark coloured is called “scanbrown”. A light gray-brown colour has a name of “pastel”. Fur of a “lavender” colour has light tints of lilac and light coloured under-wool. The next group of furs includes grey-blue colours: blue mink (“sapphire”) and its rare light coloured mutation, called “violet”; grey-blue mink and grey mink called “blue iris”. The group of light colours includes: a white mink, light beige “pearl” and graybeige “topaz” or “palomino”.

The mink which is the most widely distributed in coloured mutation is called “black cross”. Its black fur along the character forms a bright cross on the white pelt in “the humeral region”. The rare variations of “black cross” mink look very splendid: they are a blue one (sapphire cross”) and a pastel one (“pastel cross”). “Jaguar” colouration resembles a traditional white cow with black spots. There are some extremely rare mutations of mink in the world, when a number of pelts may be equal to several hundreds. Among them are a grey mink with the smallest white impregnations, so called “stardust” or a “marble” mink, which has dark yellow fur with chocolate coloured free designs.

One of the mink fur merits is its wonderful utility. With a correct caring and careful handling a mink fur overcoat can serve during 20 – 30 years. The hardwearing capacity of a mink fur is equal to a sable one and makes up 70 % of the standard that is an otter fur. The popularity of mink fur articles has been growing from year to year. In spite of the fact that mink fur is the most universal and widely spread among furs, it can never bore. Its colouration and structural changing capacities are extraordinary, indeed and its

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natural beauty has won the hearts of designers. Last seasons have demonstrated a strong interest of trend setters to a natural structure of mink fur. Today white, black, brown, and blue minks are triumphally stalking along podia in Paris, Milan, London, Madrid and New-York deservedly taking the first place among the most modern and exclusive materials of a fashion industry.

7.Ответьте на вопросы.

1.What kind of mink became a base of the fur-bearing animals breeding in the 1920’s?

2.What groups is the mink market divided into? What are the characteristics of these groups?

3.Why is an American mink a perfect object for selective transformations?

4.What is the range of natural colours of the farm mink?

5.What are the merits of the mink fur?

6.How long can a mink fur overcoat serve?

7.Why is the mink fur so popular among people?

8.Определите, являются ли следующие утверждения

верными в соответствии с текстом упражнения.

1.Today the worldwide market of farm mink is about 20 millions of skins.

2.An American mink has the highest nap and thick high underwool.

3.A Russian mink is the most widely distributed in the world.

4.A Scandinavian mink has the even nap of middle height and thick under-wool.

5.There are two types of fur in the group of a Scandinavian fur marked SAGA Furs and Kopenhagen Furs.

6.The hardwearing capacity of a mink is equal to a blue fox.

7.At present mink fur is loosing its popularity.

9.Сопоставьте название норки (колонка А), цвет (колонка В) и описание (колонка С).

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