Materials Science in Light Industry Production (Материаловедение в производстве изделий легкой промышленности). Учебное пособие

3.Прочитайте и переведите следующие прилагательные: available, expensive, outstanding, inflammable, fire-fighting, soft, crease-resistant, poor, smooth, hard, even, compact, good-quality, insulating, lightweight

4.Прочитайте и переведите текст.

Wool

Wool and silk are animal fibres, which consist of the natural albumens, such as keratin, fibroin, and sericin.

Wool is widely available but the quantity produced is much smaller and more expensive then cellulose fibres. Wool is a fibre with outstanding clothing properties of softness, warmth, resilience and drape. Wool fabrics are not highly inflammable: they neither ignite easily, nor carry flame readily therefore wool garments do not need chemical assistance. Heavy wool fabrics are commonly used for firefighting uniforms, as insulating properties of wool provide heat protection.

Wool fibres are soft and very elastic. Being resilient they return to their original shape after stretching. Due to high elasticity and resiliency of the fibres woolen textiles are crease-resistant and retain shape. The wool fibre is a poor conductor of heat, that is, they retain heat. Woolen fabrics wear well though the strength of wool fibres is not as great as that of flax and cotton.

Wool fabrics are classified as worsteds or woolens, depending on the quality of the fibres and the processes used in making them into yarns.

Long fibres are used in making worsted yarns. The fibres are put through a combing process that removes the short ones and lays the remaining long fibres parallel. Worsted yarns are smooth, hard, even and compact. Good-quality worsted fabrics are usually lightweight, they resist wrinkling, drape and retain creases well.

Shorter fibres than those in worsteds are used in making woolens. The fibres are not combed to lie parallel and so go even as worsted yarns. Good-quality woolens are generally soft. Woolen fabrics do not hold creases as well as worsted but since they are softer, they do not hold wrinkles and do not get shiny.

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2. Прочитайте и переведите следующие глаголы:

to produce, to coat, to prepare, to remove, to wear, to boil, to lose, to convert, to vary, to dye, to drench, to feel

3. Прочитайте и переведите текст.

Silk

Silk is the only natural filament used for textile purposes and it is produced by the silk worm, the caterpillar of a moth, in the form of two very fine filaments coated with the gum. With this twin filament the caterpillar produces a protective casing known as a cocoon around itself before the chrysalis stage of its life.

Sometimes when yarns are prepared for wearing the skeins of yarns are boiled in a soap solution to remove the natural silk gum or sericin. The silk may lose 20 to 30 percent of its original weight as a result of boiling.

Silk is a strong fibre, having slightly less strength than cotton. Elasticity, strength, together with fineness, high lustre, and softness superb drape enables silk to be converted into many beautiful types of fabrics, varying from delicate chiffons to beautiful heavy brocades.

Since silk fibre has a good affinity for dyeing, the colours found in silks are innumerable. As silk is a very absorptive fibre, silk fabrics, when drenched with perspiration, do not feel so dump and clammy as do fabrics made entirely of hydrophobic fibres.

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4. Соотнесите понятие (колонка А) с его объяснением (колонка В).

5.Ответьте на вопросы.

1.How is the silk produced?

2.When does the caterpillar produce a cocoon?

3.Why are the yarns boiled in a soap solution?

4.What characteristics enable silk to be converted into many beautiful types of fabrics?

5.Why do not silk fabrics feel so dump and clammy when they become drenched with perspiration?

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6. Определите, являются ли следующие утверждения верными в соответствии с текстом упражнения 3.

1.Boiling of the yarn skeins in a soap solution is used to obtain a good affinity to dye.

2.Silk is a delicate fibre.

3.Silk is the natural filament produced by the silk worm in the form of a very thick filament coated with wax.

4.Silk is produced by the caterpillar of a moth.

5.The colours found in silks are not numerous.

6.Silk is a very hydrophobic fibre.

7.Разделите текст на логические части и найдите в каждой ключевое предложение.

8.Дайте краткую аннотацию текста к упражнению 3.

Unit III

LEATHER

Lesson 12. Leather Types

1. Прочитайте и переведите следующие глаголы:

to contain, to sand, to buff, to snuff, to remove, to remain, to result in, to wear, to develop, to change, to create, to refer, to correct, to apply, to hide, to separate, to split, to prevent, to emboss, to shave, to appear, to mix, to press through rollers, to flatten, to even out, to face away, to design

2. Прочитайте следующие интернациональные слова вслух и, основываясь на значениях соответствующих русских

слов, определите их значение:

epidermis, comfort, patina, aniline, standard, pigment, manufacture, technique, to press

3. Прочитайте и переведите следующие прилагательные:

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full-grain, solid, split, fibrous, smooth, fine, inferior, artificial, strong, fuzzy, true

4. Прочитайте и переведите существительные и

словосочетания:

brand, healed scars, solid pigment, splitting, multiple layer, roller, hide, skin layer, imperfections, grain, durability, finish, insect bites, drop split, middle split, flesh split

5. Подберите эквивалентный перевод видов кожи из колонки А в колонке В.

6. Прочитайте и переведите текст.

Leather Types

Full-grain leather or top-grain is referring to the upper section of a hide that contains the epidermis or skin layer. It refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed or snuffed (otherwise known as corrected) in order to remove imperfections (or natural marks) on the surface of the hide. Only the hair has been removed from the epidermis. The grain remains in its natural state which will allow the best fibre strength, resulting in greater durability. The natural grain also has natural breathability, resulting in greater comfort for clothing. The natural full-grain surface will wear better than other leather. Rather than wearing out, it will develop a natural patina and change in its appearance over time. The finest leather furniture and footwear are made from full-grain leather. For these reasons only the

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best raw hide are used in order to create full-grain or top-grain leather. Full grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: aniline and semi-aniline.

Corrected-grain leather is any top-grain leather that has had its surfaces sanded, buffed or snuffed in order to remove any imperfection on the surface due to insect bites, healed scars or brands. Top-grain leather is often wrongly referred to as correctedgrain. Although corrected-grain leather is made from top-grain as soon as the surface is corrected in any way the leather is no longer referred to as top-grain leather. The hides used to create corrected leather are hides of inferior quality that do not meet the high standards for use in creating aniline or semi-aniline leather. The imperfections are corrected and an artificial grain is applied. Most corrected-grain leather is used to make pigmented leather as the solid pigment helps hide the corrections or imperfections. Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: semi-aniline and pigmented.

Split leather is the leather created from the fibrous part of the hide. During the splitting operation, the grain and drop split are separated. The drop split can be further split into a middle split and a flesh split. In very thick hides, the middle split can be separated into multiple layers until the thickness prevents further splitting. Split leather then has an artificial layer applied to the surface of the split and is embossed with a leather grain.

Splits are also used to create suede. The strongest suede is usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Suede is "fuzzy" on both sides. Suede is less durable than top-grain. Suede is cheaper because many pieces of suede can be split from a single thickness of hide, whereas only one piece of topgrain can be made. However, manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make the suede appear to be full-grain. For example, in one operation, glue is mixed with one side of the suede, which is then pressed through rollers; these flatten and even out one side of the material, giving it the smooth appearance of full-grain. Latigo is one of the trade names for this product. Reversed suede is grained leather

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that has been designed into the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface. It is not a true form of the suede.

7. Определите, являются ли следующие утверждения верными в соответствии с текстом упражнения 6.

1.The corrected-grain leather will wear better than other types of leather.

2.Rather than wearing out, top grain leather will develop a natural patina and change in its appearance over time.

3.Top-grain leather is often referred to as corrected-grain.

4.The hides used to create corrected leather are hides of high quality that meet the high standards for use in creating aniline or semi-aniline leather.

5.Most split leather is used to make pigmented leather, as the solid pigment helps hide the corrections or imperfections.

6.Reversed suede is a true form of suede.

8.Ответьте на вопросы.

1.What is the difference between top-grain leather and corrected leather?

2.Which type of leather is of better quality?

3.What kind of leather is used in making the finest leather furniture and footwear?

4.What operations are used to create split leather?

5.What kind of leather is the cheapest one?

6.Which techniques are used to make suede appear to be fullgrain?

9.Назовите возможные дефекты кожи.

10.Дайте краткую аннотацию текста к упражнению 6.

Lesson 13. Less-common Leather Types

1. Прочитайте и переведите следующие глаголы:

to alter, to prevent, to smoke, to date back, to originate, to confuse, to

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cause, to darken, to procure, to breed, to tan, to sand, to buff, to result in, to drive, to identify, to retain, to label, to bond, to recommend, to consist of, to adopt, to de-laminate, to place, to measure, to state, to determine

2. Прочитайте следующие интернациональные слова вслух и, основываясь на значениях соответствующих русских

слов, определите их значение:

product, polyurethane, electronic, ounce, machine, decimeter, meter, millimeter, standard, conversion, latex, jurisdiction, portfolio, nubuck, nappa, plastic, art deco period, patina, adaptation, substrate

3.Прочитайте и переведите следующие прилагательные: high-gloss, susceptible, unborn, soft, indigenous, high-quality, tough, firm, smooth, separate, heavy-weight, supple, man-made, durable, inferior, stiff, generic, fatty, suede-like, velvet-like, thorny, inherent

4.Прочитайте и переведите названия видов кожи:

Buckskin brained leather Patent leather

Shagreen Stingray skin Shark skin Vachetta leather Belting leather Slink leather Deerskin Nubuck

Bicast leather Nappa leather

Bonded leather (reconstituted leather)

5. Прочитайте и переведите следующие слова и

словосочетания:

rotting, coating, to give a high gloss finish, to give a slight nap, trimmings, to be left untreated, stains, breeding animals, martial arts, specialty products, to drive pulley belts, luxury products, to retain

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one’s shape, leather tannery, workshop, binders, cracking, pin-wheel, thickness gauge

6. Прочитайте и переведите текст.

Less-common Leather Types

Buckskin or brained leather is a tanning process that uses animal brains or other fatty materials to alter the leather. The resulting supple, suede-like hide is usually smoked heavily to prevent it from rotting.

Patent leather is leather that has been given a high-gloss finish. The original process was developed in Newark, New Jersey, by inventor Seth Boyden in 1818. Patent leather usually has a plastic coating.

Shagreen is also known as stingray skin/leather. Applications used in furniture production date as far back as the art deco period. The word "shagreen" originates from France and is commonly confused with a shark skin and stingray skin combination.

Vachetta leather is used in the trimmings of luggage and handbags, popularized by Louis Vuitton. The leather is left untreated and is therefore susceptible to water and stains. Sunlight will cause the natural leather to darken in shade, called a patina.

Slink is leather made from the skin of unborn calves. It is particularly soft, and is valued for the use in making gloves.

Deerskin is one of the toughest leathers, partially due to adaptations to their thorny and thicket filled habitats. Deerskin has been prized in many societies including indigenous Americans. Most modern deer skin is no longer procured from the wild, with deer farms breeding the animals specifically for the purpose of their skins. Large quantities are still tanned from wild deer hides in historic tanning towns such as Gloversville and Johnstown in upstate New York. Deerskin is used in jackets and overcoats, professional sporting equipment for martial arts such as kendo and bogu, as well as high-quality personal accessories like handbags and wallets. It commands a high price due to its relative rarity and proven durability.

Nubuck is top-grain cattle hide leather that has been sanded

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