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Учебное пособие.doc
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To expect, to prevent

The majority of oils are added in shampoos not for the sake of hair, and for the sake of a skin. Hair, except for the bulb, in general is dead formation, and everything, that it is possible to make for it, is to protect from chemical and mechanical damages or to disguise defects. And appearance of hair directly depends on a condition of head skin.

If even shampoo is soft and sparing, after washing the skin for a long time loses a protective film and becomes even drier, there is a furfur. Some vegetable oils, in particular linseed, bur and rapeseed oils, are very similar on the fat-acid structure to skin bacon and being entered in washing mix, can prevent unpleasant consequences. Oil of avocado has well recommended itself in shampoos for children, and oil of macadam nut in shampoos for older persons: it contains substances which synthesis is slowed down in a growing old skin especially strongly.

Laziness -- the engine of progress

Modern shampoo is for a long time not so simply specialized means for hair washing, and the most complicate composition, capable to carry out three main tasks: to delete of pollution, to remove from hair a static electricity and to protect a skin of a head. If means on hair care solves the first problem that this mean is simply shampoo, if the second - the conditioner, if the third - a mask for hair. The combination of two last properties will make a composition a balm-conditioner, two first - the shampoo-conditioner (two-in-one), and all three - shampoo three-in-one.

Problem of compatibility of various components is the challenge from everything, that face to chemists - developers.

Oil, as is known, can be effective antifoam agent. But it means, that the additive of similar softening components in shampoos should influence on quantity and quality of foam and to worsen washing properties of structure. To avoid it, in a mix so-called emulsifying agents are entered - the substances, capable to envelop insoluble in water of fat droplets. The microfilm from emulsifying agent does not allow to adjoin oil to surface-active substances directly, and also interferes with stratification of shampoo, not allowing tiny balls of oil to merge with each other.

Even more modern way to combine incongruous – solubilization of components, insoluble in water, that is their transition in soluble state by means of special additives. This phenomenon is connected with that many surface-active substances form in water not true solutions, and micelle solutions. It is connected to features of structure of molecules SAS which have the polar head and the long not charged tail.

The heads cooperate with water molecules, and tails aspire to be pulled together with each other therefore there are correct conglomerates of molecules – micelles. If SAS concentration in solution is not so great, micelles looking like balls; if concentration grows - balls merge with each other, forming tubules. The microenvironment inside balls and tubules is electrical neutral, substances, insoluble in water, for example the same oils here can quite "be dissolved". However not all molecules of SAS are capable to solubilizate additives equally well, and occurrence of products, active in this respect, has deduced manufacture of shampoos on completely other level.

It is not less difficult "to reconcile" in one bottle anion substances with cation substances. Such it became possible only after the invention of amfoteric and krypto-anion SAS (class of substances combining properties anion and non-ionogenic SAS) which molecules carry both a positive charge, and a negative charge. They rise the bridge between a molecule of washing substance and a molecule of conditioner substances, forming weak connections with them that allows components of shampoo to operate more or less independently.