- •CONTENTS
- •INTRODUCTION
- •1 Getting Started
- •Better, Cheaper, Easier
- •Who This Book Is For
- •What Kind of Digital Film Should You Make?
- •2 Writing and Scheduling
- •Screenwriting
- •Finding a Story
- •Structure
- •Writing Visually
- •Formatting Your Script
- •Writing for Television
- •Writing for “Unscripted”
- •Writing for Corporate Projects
- •Scheduling
- •Breaking Down a Script
- •Choosing a Shooting Order
- •How Much Can You Shoot in a Day?
- •Production Boards
- •Scheduling for Unscripted Projects
- •3 Digital Video Primer
- •What Is HD?
- •Components of Digital Video
- •Tracks
- •Frames
- •Scan Lines
- •Pixels
- •Audio Tracks
- •Audio Sampling
- •Working with Analog or SD Video
- •Digital Image Quality
- •Color Sampling
- •Bit Depth
- •Compression Ratios
- •Data Rate
- •Understanding Digital Media Files
- •Digital Video Container Files
- •Codecs
- •Audio Container Files and Codecs
- •Transcoding
- •Acquisition Formats
- •Unscientific Answers to Highly Technical Questions
- •4 Choosing a Camera
- •Evaluating a Camera
- •Image Quality
- •Sensors
- •Compression
- •Sharpening
- •White Balance
- •Image Tweaking
- •Lenses
- •Lens Quality
- •Lens Features
- •Interchangeable Lenses
- •Never Mind the Reasons, How Does It Look?
- •Camera Features
- •Camera Body Types
- •Manual Controls
- •Focus
- •Shutter Speed
- •Aperture Control
- •Image Stabilization
- •Viewfinder
- •Interface
- •Audio
- •Media Type
- •Wireless
- •Batteries and AC Adaptors
- •DSLRs
- •Use Your Director of Photography
- •Accessorizing
- •Tripods
- •Field Monitors
- •Remote Controls
- •Microphones
- •Filters
- •All That Other Stuff
- •What You Should Choose
- •5 Planning Your Shoot
- •Storyboarding
- •Shots and Coverage
- •Camera Angles
- •Computer-Generated Storyboards
- •Less Is More
- •Camera Diagrams and Shot Lists
- •Location Scouting
- •Production Design
- •Art Directing Basics
- •Building a Set
- •Set Dressing and Props
- •DIY Art Direction
- •Visual Planning for Documentaries
- •Effects Planning
- •Creating Rough Effects Shots
- •6 Lighting
- •Film-Style Lighting
- •The Art of Lighting
- •Three-Point Lighting
- •Types of Light
- •Color Temperature
- •Types of Lights
- •Wattage
- •Controlling the Quality of Light
- •Lighting Gels
- •Diffusion
- •Lighting Your Actors
- •Interior Lighting
- •Power Supply
- •Mixing Daylight and Interior Light
- •Using Household Lights
- •Exterior Lighting
- •Enhancing Existing Daylight
- •Video Lighting
- •Low-Light Shooting
- •Special Lighting Situations
- •Lighting for Video-to-Film Transfers
- •Lighting for Blue and Green Screen
- •7 Using the Camera
- •Setting Focus
- •Using the Zoom Lens
- •Controlling the Zoom
- •Exposure
- •Aperture
- •Shutter Speed
- •Gain
- •Which One to Adjust?
- •Exposure and Depth of Field
- •White Balancing
- •Composition
- •Headroom
- •Lead Your Subject
- •Following Versus Anticipating
- •Don’t Be Afraid to Get Too Close
- •Listen
- •Eyelines
- •Clearing Frame
- •Beware of the Stage Line
- •TV Framing
- •Breaking the Rules
- •Camera Movement
- •Panning and Tilting
- •Zooms and Dolly Shots
- •Tracking Shots
- •Handholding
- •Deciding When to Move
- •Shooting Checklist
- •8 Production Sound
- •What You Want to Record
- •Microphones
- •What a Mic Hears
- •How a Mic Hears
- •Types of Mics
- •Mixing
- •Connecting It All Up
- •Wireless Mics
- •Setting Up
- •Placing Your Mics
- •Getting the Right Sound for the Picture
- •Testing Sound
- •Reference Tone
- •Managing Your Set
- •Recording Your Sound
- •Room Tone
- •Run-and-Gun Audio
- •Gear Checklist
- •9 Shooting and Directing
- •The Shooting Script
- •Updating the Shooting Script
- •Directing
- •Rehearsals
- •Managing the Set
- •Putting Plans into Action
- •Double-Check Your Camera Settings
- •The Protocol of Shooting
- •Respect for Acting
- •Organization on the Set
- •Script Supervising for Scripted Projects
- •Documentary Field Notes
- •What’s Different with a DSLR?
- •DSLR Camera Settings for HD Video
- •Working with Interchangeable Lenses
- •What Lenses Do I Need?
- •How to Get a Shallow Depth of Field
- •Measuring and Pulling Focus
- •Measuring Focus
- •Pulling Focus
- •Advanced Camera Rigging and Supports
- •Viewing Video on the Set
- •Double-System Audio Recording
- •How to Record Double-System Audio
- •Multi-Cam Shooting
- •Multi-Cam Basics
- •Challenges of Multi-Cam Shoots
- •Going Tapeless
- •On-set Media Workstations
- •Media Cards and Workflow
- •Organizing Media on the Set
- •Audio Media Workflow
- •Shooting Blue-Screen Effects
- •11 Editing Gear
- •Setting Up a Workstation
- •Storage
- •Monitors
- •Videotape Interface
- •Custom Keyboards and Controllers
- •Backing Up
- •Networked Systems
- •Storage Area Networks (SANs) and Network-Attached Storage (NAS)
- •Cloud Storage
- •Render Farms
- •Audio Equipment
- •Digital Video Cables and Connectors
- •FireWire
- •HDMI
- •Fibre Channel
- •Thunderbolt
- •Audio Interfaces
- •Know What You Need
- •12 Editing Software
- •The Interface
- •Editing Tools
- •Drag-and-Drop Editing
- •Three-Point Editing
- •JKL Editing
- •Insert and Overwrite Editing
- •Trimming
- •Ripple and Roll, Slip and Slide
- •Multi-Camera Editing
- •Advanced Features
- •Organizational Tools
- •Importing Media
- •Effects and Titles
- •Types of Effects
- •Titles
- •Audio Tools
- •Equalization
- •Audio Effects and Filters
- •Audio Plug-In Formats
- •Mixing
- •OMF Export
- •Finishing Tools
- •Our Software Recommendations
- •Know What You Need
- •13 Preparing to Edit
- •Organizing Your Media
- •Create a Naming System
- •Setting Up Your Project
- •Importing and Transcoding
- •Capturing Tape-based Media
- •Logging
- •Capturing
- •Importing Audio
- •Importing Still Images
- •Moving Media
- •Sorting Media After Ingest
- •How to Sort by Content
- •Synchronizing Double-System Sound and Picture
- •Preparing Multi-Camera Media
- •Troubleshooting
- •14 Editing
- •Editing Basics
- •Applied Three-Act Structure
- •Building a Rough Cut
- •Watch Everything
- •Radio Cuts
- •Master Shot—Style Coverage
- •Editing Techniques
- •Cutaways and Reaction Shots
- •Matching Action
- •Matching Screen Position
- •Overlapping Edits
- •Matching Emotion and Tone
- •Pauses and Pull-Ups
- •Hard Sound Effects and Music
- •Transitions Between Scenes
- •Hard Cuts
- •Dissolves, Fades, and Wipes
- •Establishing Shots
- •Clearing Frame and Natural “Wipes”
- •Solving Technical Problems
- •Missing Elements
- •Temporary Elements
- •Multi-Cam Editing
- •Fine Cutting
- •Editing for Style
- •Duration
- •The Big Picture
- •15 Sound Editing
- •Sounding Off
- •Setting Up
- •Temp Mixes
- •Audio Levels Metering
- •Clipping and Distortion
- •Using Your Editing App for Sound
- •Dedicated Sound Editing Apps
- •Moving Your Audio
- •Editing Sound
- •Unintelligible Dialogue
- •Changes in Tone
- •Is There Extraneous Noise in the Shot?
- •Are There Bad Video Edits That Can Be Reinforced with Audio?
- •Is There Bad Audio?
- •Are There Vocal Problems You Need to Correct?
- •Dialogue Editing
- •Non-Dialogue Voice Recordings
- •EQ Is Your Friend
- •Sound Effects
- •Sound Effect Sources
- •Music
- •Editing Music
- •License to Play
- •Finding a Composer
- •Do It Yourself
- •16 Color Correction
- •Color Correction
- •Advanced Color Controls
- •Seeing Color
- •A Less Scientific Approach
- •Too Much of a Good Thing
- •Brightening Dark Video
- •Compensating for Overexposure
- •Correcting Bad White Balance
- •Using Tracks and Layers to Adjust Color
- •Black-and-White Effects
- •Correcting Color for Film
- •Making Your Video Look Like Film
- •One More Thing
- •17 Titles and Effects
- •Titles
- •Choosing Your Typeface and Size
- •Ordering Your Titles
- •Coloring Your Titles
- •Placing Your Titles
- •Safe Titles
- •Motion Effects
- •Keyframes and Interpolating
- •Integrating Still Images and Video
- •Special Effects Workflow
- •Compositing 101
- •Keys
- •Keying Tips
- •Mattes
- •Mixing SD and HD Footage
- •Using Effects to Fix Problems
- •Eliminating Camera Shake
- •Getting Rid of Things
- •Moving On
- •18 Finishing
- •What Do You Need?
- •Start Early
- •What Is Mastering?
- •What to Do Now
- •Preparing for Film Festivals
- •DIY File-Based Masters
- •Preparing Your Sequence
- •Color Grading
- •Create a Mix
- •Make a Textless Master
- •Export Your Masters
- •Watch Your Export
- •Web Video and Video-on-Demand
- •Streaming or Download?
- •Compressing for the Web
- •Choosing a Data Rate
- •Choosing a Keyframe Interval
- •DVD and Blu-Ray Discs
- •DVD and Blu-Ray Compression
- •DVD and Blu-Ray Disc Authoring
- •High-End Finishing
- •Reel Changes
- •Preparing for a Professional Audio Mix
- •Preparing for Professional Color Grading
- •Putting Audio and Video Back Together
- •Digital Videotape Masters
- •35mm Film Prints
- •The Film Printing Process
- •Printing from a Negative
- •Direct-to-Print
- •Optical Soundtracks
- •Digital Cinema Masters
- •Archiving Your Project
- •GLOSSARY
- •INDEX
Chapter 10 n DSLRs and Other Advanced Shooting Situations |
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Figure 10.21
Three angles from a three-camera shoot, and a camera diagram.
WHAT TO WATCH
Single camera editing has a style and so does multi-cam editing. But you don’t need to edit multi-cam style just because you shot multi-cam. Survivor is a TV show that shoots mostly multi-cam, but the editors use single cam editing techniques to avoid a multi-cam style. More on editing styles and multi-cam footage in Chapter 14, “Editing.”
Going Tapeless
More and more cameras use media cards rather than videotape. Tapeless is much less of a hassle, but still has its own challenges, the biggest being the fact that it is very easy to accidentally delete or write over media that is recorded to cards.
234 The Digital Filmmaking Handbook, 4E
Here’s a quick guide to going tapeless.
First, you have a big decision to make: Will you use each media card only once or will you recycle them as you shoot? The first option is much safer, but it’s not always possible. For example, some proprietary card formats like Panasonic’s P2 will set you back several hundred dollars a card. However, with standard SD cards, single use is a viable option. You will likely need 30–50 cards, so it won’t be cheap, but it will be secure.
The second option, recycling your cards as you go, is the choice of most indie filmmakers at present. The best way to do this is to have one day’s worth of cards on hand—typically, about 8–10 16GB cards. With a day’s worth of cards, you won’t be forced to delete any media while you are actually shooting. By recycling as you go, you’ll save several hundred dollars, but you’ll have the added stress of deleting media from your cards after a long day of shooting, when perhaps you are tired and a bit prone to error.
Whichever option you chose, you should plan on having an on-set media workstation and a DIT (digital imaging technician) to collect the media from the camera crew, copy it onto your hard drives, organize it, and possibly rename the files. You’ll also want a backup scheme and will only want to erase the cards after you’re certain that everything is in order. Then you can put the cards back into play.
This is a job that might seem simple, and yet you want to make sure that it’s done by someone you have complete confidence in, because your film will literally be in their hands.
On-set Media Workstations
A typical on-set media workstation consists of a laptop and two backup drives. Typically, these drives will end up as part of your editing workstation, so you might as well get drives that are up to the job. You’ll need 7200RPM (or greater) drives that use a fast connection: eSATA, FireWire 400, or FireWire 800. (USB drives are cheap and prevalent, but they are just too slow for HD.) A typical feature film shoots about 30–60GB per day, and by the end of your shoot, you are likely to have about 1TB of media, so two 1TB drives should suffice for most projects.
The media workstation will need to be somewhat mobile/portable, and it will need a guaranteed power supply. Often, a small rolling cart and folding chair will do the job, but if you’re shooting exteriors without a generator, be aware that getting power to the drives can be tricky.
Media Cards and Workflow
Once the workstation is set up, the next order of business is working out the details of getting drives to and from the cameras. You should have two containers for media cards— one for cards that are empty and ready to be used by the camera crew and one for cards that are full and waiting to be ingested into the media workstation. Ziplock bags work well for this. You should clearly label these containers because there is no margin for error here. If you hand a full card to the assistant camera operator and she reformats it in the camera, thinking the media has already been transferred to the hard drives, you just lost your footage.
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Traditionally, every roll of film or piece of videotape that goes into the camera is given a number by the assistant camera crew, and this number is recorded on the slate. Similarly, each media card should be given a camera roll number (Figure 10.22). This extra step of numbering will help make it clearer which cards have been used in the camera and which haven’t, in case there is any confusion on the set. Even if your project isn’t scripted, having camera roll numbers can be a helpful way of organizing media for post. It’s also a good policy not to have any folders on your drive share the same name so that you don’t accidentally copy over anything. Instead of having several folders called “A-cam,” you can name each folder by camera letter and roll number.
Figure 10.22
These SD cards were used during the shoot and given roll numbers by the assistant camera operator.
Note that the tape on these drives is positioned so as not to interfere with drive operations.
Organizing Media on the Set
Once a card is filled with media, it should be immediately loaded into the computer and the contents copied onto one of the hard drives. At this point, it’s considered a good idea to rename the raw camera files (Figure 10.23). Unless your camera lets you name files, each shot will be on the card with a name like 0001.mov, which isn’t too helpful for post. The file should be renamed to match the info on the slate so that 0001.mov becomes 54A-1.mov. Sometimes if it’s a multi-cam shoot, it’s wise to add the camera letter to the filename as well, such as
54A-1a.mov.
You should make a folder for each date that you shoot, a subfolder for each camera (if multicam), and then another subfolder for each camera roll. DSLR cameras tend to create extra thumbnail files that you can delete at this point.
236 The Digital Filmmaking Handbook, 4E
Figure 10.23
The folder on the left has the raw media files from the camera; the folder on the right has files that have been renamed according to information on the slate.
File Naming Conventions
Always name your files in a way that is compatible with the operating system and editing software used by your editing workstation. And always make sure to use the same naming conventions for all the media in your production.
After the files are renamed, they should be backed up to the second hard drive as well. This is purely a security measure, but drives are known to fail, and it’s better to be safe than sorry. Once the media is renamed and stored on two hard drives, you can delete the media from the card. Once again, we recommend being extra careful before you delete anything. Check that the files on the hard drive are working properly. If time permits, you should watch them all the way through. This isn’t always feasible, but it is the best way to know that the media is secure before you delete your camera originals.
If you follow these steps shown in Figure 10.24, your media will be organized and ready to import into your editing software when the shoot is finished.
