- •CONTENTS
- •INTRODUCTION
- •1 Getting Started
- •Better, Cheaper, Easier
- •Who This Book Is For
- •What Kind of Digital Film Should You Make?
- •2 Writing and Scheduling
- •Screenwriting
- •Finding a Story
- •Structure
- •Writing Visually
- •Formatting Your Script
- •Writing for Television
- •Writing for “Unscripted”
- •Writing for Corporate Projects
- •Scheduling
- •Breaking Down a Script
- •Choosing a Shooting Order
- •How Much Can You Shoot in a Day?
- •Production Boards
- •Scheduling for Unscripted Projects
- •3 Digital Video Primer
- •What Is HD?
- •Components of Digital Video
- •Tracks
- •Frames
- •Scan Lines
- •Pixels
- •Audio Tracks
- •Audio Sampling
- •Working with Analog or SD Video
- •Digital Image Quality
- •Color Sampling
- •Bit Depth
- •Compression Ratios
- •Data Rate
- •Understanding Digital Media Files
- •Digital Video Container Files
- •Codecs
- •Audio Container Files and Codecs
- •Transcoding
- •Acquisition Formats
- •Unscientific Answers to Highly Technical Questions
- •4 Choosing a Camera
- •Evaluating a Camera
- •Image Quality
- •Sensors
- •Compression
- •Sharpening
- •White Balance
- •Image Tweaking
- •Lenses
- •Lens Quality
- •Lens Features
- •Interchangeable Lenses
- •Never Mind the Reasons, How Does It Look?
- •Camera Features
- •Camera Body Types
- •Manual Controls
- •Focus
- •Shutter Speed
- •Aperture Control
- •Image Stabilization
- •Viewfinder
- •Interface
- •Audio
- •Media Type
- •Wireless
- •Batteries and AC Adaptors
- •DSLRs
- •Use Your Director of Photography
- •Accessorizing
- •Tripods
- •Field Monitors
- •Remote Controls
- •Microphones
- •Filters
- •All That Other Stuff
- •What You Should Choose
- •5 Planning Your Shoot
- •Storyboarding
- •Shots and Coverage
- •Camera Angles
- •Computer-Generated Storyboards
- •Less Is More
- •Camera Diagrams and Shot Lists
- •Location Scouting
- •Production Design
- •Art Directing Basics
- •Building a Set
- •Set Dressing and Props
- •DIY Art Direction
- •Visual Planning for Documentaries
- •Effects Planning
- •Creating Rough Effects Shots
- •6 Lighting
- •Film-Style Lighting
- •The Art of Lighting
- •Three-Point Lighting
- •Types of Light
- •Color Temperature
- •Types of Lights
- •Wattage
- •Controlling the Quality of Light
- •Lighting Gels
- •Diffusion
- •Lighting Your Actors
- •Interior Lighting
- •Power Supply
- •Mixing Daylight and Interior Light
- •Using Household Lights
- •Exterior Lighting
- •Enhancing Existing Daylight
- •Video Lighting
- •Low-Light Shooting
- •Special Lighting Situations
- •Lighting for Video-to-Film Transfers
- •Lighting for Blue and Green Screen
- •7 Using the Camera
- •Setting Focus
- •Using the Zoom Lens
- •Controlling the Zoom
- •Exposure
- •Aperture
- •Shutter Speed
- •Gain
- •Which One to Adjust?
- •Exposure and Depth of Field
- •White Balancing
- •Composition
- •Headroom
- •Lead Your Subject
- •Following Versus Anticipating
- •Don’t Be Afraid to Get Too Close
- •Listen
- •Eyelines
- •Clearing Frame
- •Beware of the Stage Line
- •TV Framing
- •Breaking the Rules
- •Camera Movement
- •Panning and Tilting
- •Zooms and Dolly Shots
- •Tracking Shots
- •Handholding
- •Deciding When to Move
- •Shooting Checklist
- •8 Production Sound
- •What You Want to Record
- •Microphones
- •What a Mic Hears
- •How a Mic Hears
- •Types of Mics
- •Mixing
- •Connecting It All Up
- •Wireless Mics
- •Setting Up
- •Placing Your Mics
- •Getting the Right Sound for the Picture
- •Testing Sound
- •Reference Tone
- •Managing Your Set
- •Recording Your Sound
- •Room Tone
- •Run-and-Gun Audio
- •Gear Checklist
- •9 Shooting and Directing
- •The Shooting Script
- •Updating the Shooting Script
- •Directing
- •Rehearsals
- •Managing the Set
- •Putting Plans into Action
- •Double-Check Your Camera Settings
- •The Protocol of Shooting
- •Respect for Acting
- •Organization on the Set
- •Script Supervising for Scripted Projects
- •Documentary Field Notes
- •What’s Different with a DSLR?
- •DSLR Camera Settings for HD Video
- •Working with Interchangeable Lenses
- •What Lenses Do I Need?
- •How to Get a Shallow Depth of Field
- •Measuring and Pulling Focus
- •Measuring Focus
- •Pulling Focus
- •Advanced Camera Rigging and Supports
- •Viewing Video on the Set
- •Double-System Audio Recording
- •How to Record Double-System Audio
- •Multi-Cam Shooting
- •Multi-Cam Basics
- •Challenges of Multi-Cam Shoots
- •Going Tapeless
- •On-set Media Workstations
- •Media Cards and Workflow
- •Organizing Media on the Set
- •Audio Media Workflow
- •Shooting Blue-Screen Effects
- •11 Editing Gear
- •Setting Up a Workstation
- •Storage
- •Monitors
- •Videotape Interface
- •Custom Keyboards and Controllers
- •Backing Up
- •Networked Systems
- •Storage Area Networks (SANs) and Network-Attached Storage (NAS)
- •Cloud Storage
- •Render Farms
- •Audio Equipment
- •Digital Video Cables and Connectors
- •FireWire
- •HDMI
- •Fibre Channel
- •Thunderbolt
- •Audio Interfaces
- •Know What You Need
- •12 Editing Software
- •The Interface
- •Editing Tools
- •Drag-and-Drop Editing
- •Three-Point Editing
- •JKL Editing
- •Insert and Overwrite Editing
- •Trimming
- •Ripple and Roll, Slip and Slide
- •Multi-Camera Editing
- •Advanced Features
- •Organizational Tools
- •Importing Media
- •Effects and Titles
- •Types of Effects
- •Titles
- •Audio Tools
- •Equalization
- •Audio Effects and Filters
- •Audio Plug-In Formats
- •Mixing
- •OMF Export
- •Finishing Tools
- •Our Software Recommendations
- •Know What You Need
- •13 Preparing to Edit
- •Organizing Your Media
- •Create a Naming System
- •Setting Up Your Project
- •Importing and Transcoding
- •Capturing Tape-based Media
- •Logging
- •Capturing
- •Importing Audio
- •Importing Still Images
- •Moving Media
- •Sorting Media After Ingest
- •How to Sort by Content
- •Synchronizing Double-System Sound and Picture
- •Preparing Multi-Camera Media
- •Troubleshooting
- •14 Editing
- •Editing Basics
- •Applied Three-Act Structure
- •Building a Rough Cut
- •Watch Everything
- •Radio Cuts
- •Master Shot—Style Coverage
- •Editing Techniques
- •Cutaways and Reaction Shots
- •Matching Action
- •Matching Screen Position
- •Overlapping Edits
- •Matching Emotion and Tone
- •Pauses and Pull-Ups
- •Hard Sound Effects and Music
- •Transitions Between Scenes
- •Hard Cuts
- •Dissolves, Fades, and Wipes
- •Establishing Shots
- •Clearing Frame and Natural “Wipes”
- •Solving Technical Problems
- •Missing Elements
- •Temporary Elements
- •Multi-Cam Editing
- •Fine Cutting
- •Editing for Style
- •Duration
- •The Big Picture
- •15 Sound Editing
- •Sounding Off
- •Setting Up
- •Temp Mixes
- •Audio Levels Metering
- •Clipping and Distortion
- •Using Your Editing App for Sound
- •Dedicated Sound Editing Apps
- •Moving Your Audio
- •Editing Sound
- •Unintelligible Dialogue
- •Changes in Tone
- •Is There Extraneous Noise in the Shot?
- •Are There Bad Video Edits That Can Be Reinforced with Audio?
- •Is There Bad Audio?
- •Are There Vocal Problems You Need to Correct?
- •Dialogue Editing
- •Non-Dialogue Voice Recordings
- •EQ Is Your Friend
- •Sound Effects
- •Sound Effect Sources
- •Music
- •Editing Music
- •License to Play
- •Finding a Composer
- •Do It Yourself
- •16 Color Correction
- •Color Correction
- •Advanced Color Controls
- •Seeing Color
- •A Less Scientific Approach
- •Too Much of a Good Thing
- •Brightening Dark Video
- •Compensating for Overexposure
- •Correcting Bad White Balance
- •Using Tracks and Layers to Adjust Color
- •Black-and-White Effects
- •Correcting Color for Film
- •Making Your Video Look Like Film
- •One More Thing
- •17 Titles and Effects
- •Titles
- •Choosing Your Typeface and Size
- •Ordering Your Titles
- •Coloring Your Titles
- •Placing Your Titles
- •Safe Titles
- •Motion Effects
- •Keyframes and Interpolating
- •Integrating Still Images and Video
- •Special Effects Workflow
- •Compositing 101
- •Keys
- •Keying Tips
- •Mattes
- •Mixing SD and HD Footage
- •Using Effects to Fix Problems
- •Eliminating Camera Shake
- •Getting Rid of Things
- •Moving On
- •18 Finishing
- •What Do You Need?
- •Start Early
- •What Is Mastering?
- •What to Do Now
- •Preparing for Film Festivals
- •DIY File-Based Masters
- •Preparing Your Sequence
- •Color Grading
- •Create a Mix
- •Make a Textless Master
- •Export Your Masters
- •Watch Your Export
- •Web Video and Video-on-Demand
- •Streaming or Download?
- •Compressing for the Web
- •Choosing a Data Rate
- •Choosing a Keyframe Interval
- •DVD and Blu-Ray Discs
- •DVD and Blu-Ray Compression
- •DVD and Blu-Ray Disc Authoring
- •High-End Finishing
- •Reel Changes
- •Preparing for a Professional Audio Mix
- •Preparing for Professional Color Grading
- •Putting Audio and Video Back Together
- •Digital Videotape Masters
- •35mm Film Prints
- •The Film Printing Process
- •Printing from a Negative
- •Direct-to-Print
- •Optical Soundtracks
- •Digital Cinema Masters
- •Archiving Your Project
- •GLOSSARY
- •INDEX
Chapter 7 n Using the Camera |
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Using the Zoom Lens
Once you’ve set the focus, the next basic skill is learning how to use a zoom lens.
Camera lenses fall into two categories: prime lenses and zoom lenses. Prime lenses have a fixed focal length, measured in millimeters, that determines their angle of view. Prime lenses are known for producing a sharper image than zoom lenses, and DPs who work in feature films are used to having a selection of high-quality prime lenses for their 35mm film or digital cinema cameras.
If your camera can use interchangeable lenses, you will have the choice of using primes or zooms, or a combination of both for different shooting situations. However, most video cameras are equipped with built-in zoom lenses (Figure 7.5) that offer a range of focal lengths from telephoto (or close-up) to wide angles.
And that’s why learning to use the camera starts with learning to use a zoom lens. (Using prime lenses is discussed in Chapter 10.)
Figure 7.5
A professional zoom lens will be equipped something like this.
Focal Length Equivalency
Many people are familiar with the focal lengths of lenses used in 35mm. But whenever you use a camera with an image sensor that is smaller than 35mm film, the focal lengths are designed at a different scale. You can use a focal length multiplier to figure out the focal length equivalency of different lenses. For example, a 7mm DV lens has a focal length multiplier of 7 and is the equivalent of a 50mm lens on a 35mm still camera. Refer to the manufacturer’s documentation to get the focal length multiplier for your camera/lens.
148 The Digital Filmmaking Handbook, 4E
The great thing about a zoom lens is that it provides great flexibility when you frame a shot. Without changing your position, you can quickly zoom in to a subject to get a tighter view and a different framing. However, it’s essential that you pay attention to the elements of your image that change when you zoom in and out.
It’s easy to think of your zoom lens as a big magnifying glass and, to a degree, that is what it is. As you zoom in, your subject appears larger. This is why digital video camera manufacturers label their lenses with a magnification factor—2x, 3x, and so forth. However, a few other things happen to your image when you zoom.
Focal Length Defined
Focal length is the distance from the lens to the camera’s image sensor(s), usually measured in millimeters.
As you go to a longer focal length (zoom in), your field of view gets narrower. The human eye has a field of view of about 50 to 55°. This is considered a “normal” field of view (see Figure 7.6).
More important, though, is to pay attention to the way that a lens magnifies different parts of your image, and how it compresses depth overall as you zoom in and out.
At wider focal lengths (that is, when you are zoomed out), objects that are closer to the lens get magnified more than objects that are farther away. Telephoto lenses, on the other hand, magnify all objects in a scene equally, no matter how far away they are.
Here is an example. At some time, you’ve probably looked at a photograph or video of yourself and thought “that doesn’t really look like me.” One reason for the poor result might be that the photographer was using a wide-angle lens. Shooting a portrait with a wide-angle lens is problematic because some parts of your subject’s face are closer to the lens than others are. Consequently, those parts, particularly the nose, will be magnified more than the parts that are farther away.
Check out the pictures in Figure 7.7. The image on the left was shot with a slightly telephoto lens and really does look like the actual person. The image on the right is not a very good likeness (though it might be truer to this person’s character). The nose is too big and the ears have been rendered too small. In addition, the distance between the nose and ears—the depth of the picture—is too long. In other words, the sense of depth in the second image has been expanded, and the results look a bit weird.
Now consider the images in Figure 7.8. For these images, we zoomed the lens in, but we also changed the camera’s position to keep the framing the same. In other words, we adjusted the camera’s position (by moving it farther away) to maintain the same field of view as we zoomed the camera in. Therefore, the man appears to be the same size in each image, but notice what happens to the tree. It gets bigger! This is because, as we zoom in, we’re compressing the sense of depth in the image, just as we compressed the face of the man in Figure 7.7.
The lesson here is that there’s a price to pay for being lazy. Many people think “Great, I can stand here, zoom in, and get the shot I need, rather than having to take my camera all the way over there.” However, as you can see, the camera’s position and distance from the subject has a huge effect on the final image. A tight shot created by a zoom can feel voyeuristic, while a tight shot created by moving the camera up close can feel more intimate. In other words, your choice of camera position and corresponding focal length can greatly change the sense of space and atmosphere in your scene.
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22mm
50mm
Figure 7.6
The middle 50mm image displays roughly the same field of view as the naked eye. As the focal length shortens to 22mm, the field of view gets very wide. Conversely, as the focal length extends to 480mm, the field of view gets very narrow.
480mm
150 The Digital Filmmaking Handbook, 4E
Figure 7.7
These two pictures show what a difference focal length can make.
The image on the left was shot with a slightly telephoto focal length, while the image on the right was shot with a very wide-angle focal length.
Next time you watch a comedy, pay attention to the focal length of most shots. If it’s a particularly wacky comedy, you’ll probably notice that most close-ups and many scenes are shot with a really wide-angle lens. The fact is that wide-angle lenses make people funny-looking. You’ll be able to spot a wide-angle shot because actor’s faces will appear distorted as they are in the top two photos in Figure 7.8. You’ll also probably notice that objects behind the actors appear very far away, and you’ll have an extremely wide angle of view that encompasses a lot of the set or location.
To sum up: As focal length increases, the sense of depth in the image decreases, so it’s very important to carefully choose your focal length and camera position.
You’ll learn more about the importance of focal length when we discuss composition and framing later in this chapter.
Care of the Lens
Always keep your lens cap on when your camera is not in use. Keep a UV haze filter on your lens as a protective layer. Avoid touching the lens with your bare hands, since the oil from your fingers can etch a permanent mark on the glass. Never clean a lens with dry fabric or tissue. Instead, use a lens tissue dampened with lens cleaning fluid to wipe it off.
