III. Make up a plan of the text.

IV. Translate the paragraph in italics in a written form.

V. Questions for discussion:

1. What are the ways of attaching bottoms to uppers?

2. What factors will determine the type of footwear construction?

3. What process is used in over half the shoes built today?

4. What properties does cement process offer to build shoes?

5. How long has the Goodyear welt process been used?

6. What is the origin of Goodyear welt process?

7. What is a benefit of the Goodyear welt construction?

8. What does the stitchdown process contain in its basic form?

9. Is there any difference between a true moccasin construction and a machine made one?

10. How many types of heat-seal construction are known?

VI. Render the text in brief in a written form.

TEXT C

I. Mind the following words and word-combinations:

1. to gain popularity – ставати відомим, популярним

2. informal – зручний, повсякденний

3. fabric – тканина

4. stiff – жорсткий

5. to laminate – покривати

6. to increase – збільшувати

7. to decrease – зменшувати

II. Listen to the text ‘MOULDED AND NON-MOULDED SHOES’ and decide if the statements are true or false:

1. Shoes with moulded components are not popular today.

2. Wearers of moulded footwear find it comfortable to wear it everywhere.

3. Moulded shoes may often possess a formal appearance.

4. Traditional non-moulded or slip-lased shoes are often flexible and lighter than moulded shoes.

5. The soles of traditional non-moulded shoes are usually constructed of several layers laminated together with glue.

III. Listen to the text again and be ready to answer the questions:

1. Why do moulded footwear and shoes with moulded components continue to gain popularity?

2. Why are traditional non-moulded or slip-lasted shoes often stiff and hard under a wearer’s foot?

UNIT XII

LEATHER GOODS

TEXT A

I. Read and remember the words and their translation:

1. accessories – аксесуари, допоміжні деталі

2. to fit – відповідати розміру, підходити

3. a run – обробка

4. fancy – фасонний, модний, вищої якості

5. flatting – вирівнювання по товщині

6. a lizard – ящірка

7. a skiving machine – машина для спускання країв, шпальтовки, шефрування

8. to pare – підрізати

9. to bevel – робити фаску, спускати, скошувати

10. to groove – робити жолобок

II. Read and remember the following phrases:

1. damping the leather – зволожування або запарювання шкіри

2. to cut out the “trank” – розкроювати рукавичну основу

3. to fit frame on the bag – вставити каркас у сумку

4. to do in one tenth the time taken by hand – робити в десять разів швидше ніж вручну

5. a revolving cylindrical knife – циліндричний ніж, який обертається

6. to protrude through an aperture – вистромлювати крізь отвір

III. Read and translate the following text:

Manufacture of gloves and handbags

Leather, due to its excellent abrasion and wind resistance, found its use in a great number of leather goods industries. They provide us with footwear, clothing, upholstery for furniture and car seats and accessories, such as gloves, bags, handbags, suitcases and so on.

The manufacture of well-fitting dress gloves requires leather of beautiful quality with special properties such as washability, colour and a high degree of skill in cutting-out in order that the gloves can stretch with the movement of the hand and yet fit well. The leather must possess "run", that is when pulled it must stretch and not spring back when the pull ceases. The skill of the glove cutter lies in getting the degree of stretch in each direction before the final cutting to shape takes place. The stages in glove cutting are as follows: first, damping the leather, then stretching it suitably, next cutting out the "trank", and finally cutting out the actual shapes from the trank, either by hand or by means of a template and knife, or with a die known as a "web".

The method employed for the best gloves is known as "table cutting", each, trank being considered separately in the final cutting.

The next stage is silking or pointing that is making the three stitched ridges on the back of the gloves. Then the stitching together of the various parts follows. After the gloves return from the stitching operation they are placed on metal "hands", ironed and polished. Although vast quantities of woollen and textile gloves are made leather remains the most important material.

The making of leather handbags is much sectionalized. Many types of sewing machines are used, including special models for fancy stitching of various kinds, elasticizing lining pockets and so on. Machines exist for fitting frames on to bags of cheaper types, for backing minors and a few other minor operations.

Flatting processes are necessary to obtain a high finish on lizard and box-calf bags. But the most important machine is the skiving machine. In nearly all leather bags the leather has, at some point or other, to be pared, beveled, thinned or grooved.

Leather for covering frames or other metal parts must be shaved down to paper thickness. Machine will do it in one tenth the time taken by hand. Both hand and machine paring are very skillful operations. The machine is a small one with a revolving cylindrical knife constantly sharpened by an automatic attachment. On an outside bevel, materials are fed on to the knife, which protrudes through an aperture in the bed of the machine for about two inches, by rotating every feed-roll. And the type of cut therefor is controlled by a presser foot adjustable as to angle and height, of which there are many types for different requirements. Almost every type of leather (except of course the thick, heavy varieties used for sole, belting and hardness work) is used for handbags.